NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
Guest
Posts: n/a
NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
transfer case noise is gone.
If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
revolution.
The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
vehicle for a few days -
Are there any special tools needed for this?
Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
thanks
paul
I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
transfer case noise is gone.
If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
revolution.
The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
vehicle for a few days -
Are there any special tools needed for this?
Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
thanks
paul
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and
> the transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok,
> but every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if
> the chain has a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case
> on the 2nd revolution.
I would suspect a stretched chain by that description. That's what
bikes do, the chain rides up every so often then falls down and clanks.
Problem is if the chain is that worn the gears might not be in good
shape either.
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured
> one for around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this
> repair......
Have you checked junkyard prices?
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok
> without a vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
Mallet, screwdriver, wrench set, torque wrench. But you will need
a manual because there is an order to doing the case.
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Fairly straight forward, mark the linkages where they are adjusted it
will make things go back in easier. I use tape or a marker.
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Pry only at the reinforced locations or you risk cracking the case.
Work your way around slowly and if you have to, tap the side with
a rubber or dead-blow mallet (not a sledge or regular hammer)
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box
> to a shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
Yep. And since it's out of the jeep they might charge you less.
--
DougW
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and
> the transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok,
> but every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if
> the chain has a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case
> on the 2nd revolution.
I would suspect a stretched chain by that description. That's what
bikes do, the chain rides up every so often then falls down and clanks.
Problem is if the chain is that worn the gears might not be in good
shape either.
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured
> one for around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this
> repair......
Have you checked junkyard prices?
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok
> without a vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
Mallet, screwdriver, wrench set, torque wrench. But you will need
a manual because there is an order to doing the case.
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Fairly straight forward, mark the linkages where they are adjusted it
will make things go back in easier. I use tape or a marker.
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Pry only at the reinforced locations or you risk cracking the case.
Work your way around slowly and if you have to, tap the side with
a rubber or dead-blow mallet (not a sledge or regular hammer)
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box
> to a shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
Yep. And since it's out of the jeep they might charge you less.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and
> the transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok,
> but every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if
> the chain has a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case
> on the 2nd revolution.
I would suspect a stretched chain by that description. That's what
bikes do, the chain rides up every so often then falls down and clanks.
Problem is if the chain is that worn the gears might not be in good
shape either.
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured
> one for around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this
> repair......
Have you checked junkyard prices?
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok
> without a vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
Mallet, screwdriver, wrench set, torque wrench. But you will need
a manual because there is an order to doing the case.
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Fairly straight forward, mark the linkages where they are adjusted it
will make things go back in easier. I use tape or a marker.
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Pry only at the reinforced locations or you risk cracking the case.
Work your way around slowly and if you have to, tap the side with
a rubber or dead-blow mallet (not a sledge or regular hammer)
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box
> to a shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
Yep. And since it's out of the jeep they might charge you less.
--
DougW
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and
> the transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok,
> but every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if
> the chain has a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case
> on the 2nd revolution.
I would suspect a stretched chain by that description. That's what
bikes do, the chain rides up every so often then falls down and clanks.
Problem is if the chain is that worn the gears might not be in good
shape either.
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured
> one for around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this
> repair......
Have you checked junkyard prices?
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok
> without a vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
Mallet, screwdriver, wrench set, torque wrench. But you will need
a manual because there is an order to doing the case.
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Fairly straight forward, mark the linkages where they are adjusted it
will make things go back in easier. I use tape or a marker.
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Pry only at the reinforced locations or you risk cracking the case.
Work your way around slowly and if you have to, tap the side with
a rubber or dead-blow mallet (not a sledge or regular hammer)
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box
> to a shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
Yep. And since it's out of the jeep they might charge you less.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and
> the transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok,
> but every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if
> the chain has a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case
> on the 2nd revolution.
I would suspect a stretched chain by that description. That's what
bikes do, the chain rides up every so often then falls down and clanks.
Problem is if the chain is that worn the gears might not be in good
shape either.
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured
> one for around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this
> repair......
Have you checked junkyard prices?
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok
> without a vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
Mallet, screwdriver, wrench set, torque wrench. But you will need
a manual because there is an order to doing the case.
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Fairly straight forward, mark the linkages where they are adjusted it
will make things go back in easier. I use tape or a marker.
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Pry only at the reinforced locations or you risk cracking the case.
Work your way around slowly and if you have to, tap the side with
a rubber or dead-blow mallet (not a sledge or regular hammer)
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box
> to a shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
Yep. And since it's out of the jeep they might charge you less.
--
DougW
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and
> the transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok,
> but every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if
> the chain has a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case
> on the 2nd revolution.
I would suspect a stretched chain by that description. That's what
bikes do, the chain rides up every so often then falls down and clanks.
Problem is if the chain is that worn the gears might not be in good
shape either.
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured
> one for around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this
> repair......
Have you checked junkyard prices?
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok
> without a vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
Mallet, screwdriver, wrench set, torque wrench. But you will need
a manual because there is an order to doing the case.
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Fairly straight forward, mark the linkages where they are adjusted it
will make things go back in easier. I use tape or a marker.
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Pry only at the reinforced locations or you risk cracking the case.
Work your way around slowly and if you have to, tap the side with
a rubber or dead-blow mallet (not a sledge or regular hammer)
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box
> to a shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
Yep. And since it's out of the jeep they might charge you less.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and
> the transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok,
> but every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if
> the chain has a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case
> on the 2nd revolution.
I would suspect a stretched chain by that description. That's what
bikes do, the chain rides up every so often then falls down and clanks.
Problem is if the chain is that worn the gears might not be in good
shape either.
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured
> one for around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this
> repair......
Have you checked junkyard prices?
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok
> without a vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
Mallet, screwdriver, wrench set, torque wrench. But you will need
a manual because there is an order to doing the case.
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Fairly straight forward, mark the linkages where they are adjusted it
will make things go back in easier. I use tape or a marker.
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Pry only at the reinforced locations or you risk cracking the case.
Work your way around slowly and if you have to, tap the side with
a rubber or dead-blow mallet (not a sledge or regular hammer)
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box
> to a shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
Yep. And since it's out of the jeep they might charge you less.
--
DougW
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and
> the transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok,
> but every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if
> the chain has a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case
> on the 2nd revolution.
I would suspect a stretched chain by that description. That's what
bikes do, the chain rides up every so often then falls down and clanks.
Problem is if the chain is that worn the gears might not be in good
shape either.
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured
> one for around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this
> repair......
Have you checked junkyard prices?
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok
> without a vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
Mallet, screwdriver, wrench set, torque wrench. But you will need
a manual because there is an order to doing the case.
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
Fairly straight forward, mark the linkages where they are adjusted it
will make things go back in easier. I use tape or a marker.
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Pry only at the reinforced locations or you risk cracking the case.
Work your way around slowly and if you have to, tap the side with
a rubber or dead-blow mallet (not a sledge or regular hammer)
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box
> to a shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
Yep. And since it's out of the jeep they might charge you less.
--
DougW
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
At the very least, get a Chilton's or Hayes manual. I have the Chilton's
#8535 that is pretty decent on the NP 242. Not sure if it is in print
anymore.
Before you start, take the vehicle to a self service car wash and really
blast things underneath. Not a bad idea to repeat the process after you
have the transfer case off, helps keep the contamination down.
To take it off the vehicle, remove front and rear driveshafts, remove
tranny mount bolts, remmove speedo cable, vac switch cable, and the
shift lever. Support tranny, drop the main cross member, and drain the
oil. 5 or 6 bolts (depends on exact model), transfer case comes straight
back. It weighs about 90 pounds, make sure you don't drop it.
Set the unit on the bench, tailshaft up. Start at the top (rear), 3
bolts on the extension and remove, pop the snap ring holding the
bearing. Pull the center rear housing (speedo conects here). Pull the
back half of the main section. All problems should be clear at this
point. To change the chain, you 'usually' have to remove the front
driveshaft yoke nut. Makes it easier anyway. Lift the two shafts and the
chain as one unit. There is a detent spring in the front case than likes
to go flying.
I'd suspect your chain is toast. The question is if the chain took out
the sprockets, many times they are fine.
Parts are usually available from www.quadratec.com or www.4wd.com I got
better prices from my local suppliers. Dealer prices were out of sight
plus not in stock.
Have fun.
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
> transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
> every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
> a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
> revolution.
>
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
> around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
>
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
> vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
>
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
> shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
>
> thanks
> paul
>
>
#8535 that is pretty decent on the NP 242. Not sure if it is in print
anymore.
Before you start, take the vehicle to a self service car wash and really
blast things underneath. Not a bad idea to repeat the process after you
have the transfer case off, helps keep the contamination down.
To take it off the vehicle, remove front and rear driveshafts, remove
tranny mount bolts, remmove speedo cable, vac switch cable, and the
shift lever. Support tranny, drop the main cross member, and drain the
oil. 5 or 6 bolts (depends on exact model), transfer case comes straight
back. It weighs about 90 pounds, make sure you don't drop it.
Set the unit on the bench, tailshaft up. Start at the top (rear), 3
bolts on the extension and remove, pop the snap ring holding the
bearing. Pull the center rear housing (speedo conects here). Pull the
back half of the main section. All problems should be clear at this
point. To change the chain, you 'usually' have to remove the front
driveshaft yoke nut. Makes it easier anyway. Lift the two shafts and the
chain as one unit. There is a detent spring in the front case than likes
to go flying.
I'd suspect your chain is toast. The question is if the chain took out
the sprockets, many times they are fine.
Parts are usually available from www.quadratec.com or www.4wd.com I got
better prices from my local suppliers. Dealer prices were out of sight
plus not in stock.
Have fun.
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
> transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
> every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
> a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
> revolution.
>
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
> around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
>
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
> vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
>
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
> shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
>
> thanks
> paul
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
At the very least, get a Chilton's or Hayes manual. I have the Chilton's
#8535 that is pretty decent on the NP 242. Not sure if it is in print
anymore.
Before you start, take the vehicle to a self service car wash and really
blast things underneath. Not a bad idea to repeat the process after you
have the transfer case off, helps keep the contamination down.
To take it off the vehicle, remove front and rear driveshafts, remove
tranny mount bolts, remmove speedo cable, vac switch cable, and the
shift lever. Support tranny, drop the main cross member, and drain the
oil. 5 or 6 bolts (depends on exact model), transfer case comes straight
back. It weighs about 90 pounds, make sure you don't drop it.
Set the unit on the bench, tailshaft up. Start at the top (rear), 3
bolts on the extension and remove, pop the snap ring holding the
bearing. Pull the center rear housing (speedo conects here). Pull the
back half of the main section. All problems should be clear at this
point. To change the chain, you 'usually' have to remove the front
driveshaft yoke nut. Makes it easier anyway. Lift the two shafts and the
chain as one unit. There is a detent spring in the front case than likes
to go flying.
I'd suspect your chain is toast. The question is if the chain took out
the sprockets, many times they are fine.
Parts are usually available from www.quadratec.com or www.4wd.com I got
better prices from my local suppliers. Dealer prices were out of sight
plus not in stock.
Have fun.
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
> transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
> every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
> a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
> revolution.
>
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
> around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
>
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
> vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
>
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
> shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
>
> thanks
> paul
>
>
#8535 that is pretty decent on the NP 242. Not sure if it is in print
anymore.
Before you start, take the vehicle to a self service car wash and really
blast things underneath. Not a bad idea to repeat the process after you
have the transfer case off, helps keep the contamination down.
To take it off the vehicle, remove front and rear driveshafts, remove
tranny mount bolts, remmove speedo cable, vac switch cable, and the
shift lever. Support tranny, drop the main cross member, and drain the
oil. 5 or 6 bolts (depends on exact model), transfer case comes straight
back. It weighs about 90 pounds, make sure you don't drop it.
Set the unit on the bench, tailshaft up. Start at the top (rear), 3
bolts on the extension and remove, pop the snap ring holding the
bearing. Pull the center rear housing (speedo conects here). Pull the
back half of the main section. All problems should be clear at this
point. To change the chain, you 'usually' have to remove the front
driveshaft yoke nut. Makes it easier anyway. Lift the two shafts and the
chain as one unit. There is a detent spring in the front case than likes
to go flying.
I'd suspect your chain is toast. The question is if the chain took out
the sprockets, many times they are fine.
Parts are usually available from www.quadratec.com or www.4wd.com I got
better prices from my local suppliers. Dealer prices were out of sight
plus not in stock.
Have fun.
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
> transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
> every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
> a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
> revolution.
>
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
> around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
>
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
> vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
>
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
> shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
>
> thanks
> paul
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
At the very least, get a Chilton's or Hayes manual. I have the Chilton's
#8535 that is pretty decent on the NP 242. Not sure if it is in print
anymore.
Before you start, take the vehicle to a self service car wash and really
blast things underneath. Not a bad idea to repeat the process after you
have the transfer case off, helps keep the contamination down.
To take it off the vehicle, remove front and rear driveshafts, remove
tranny mount bolts, remmove speedo cable, vac switch cable, and the
shift lever. Support tranny, drop the main cross member, and drain the
oil. 5 or 6 bolts (depends on exact model), transfer case comes straight
back. It weighs about 90 pounds, make sure you don't drop it.
Set the unit on the bench, tailshaft up. Start at the top (rear), 3
bolts on the extension and remove, pop the snap ring holding the
bearing. Pull the center rear housing (speedo conects here). Pull the
back half of the main section. All problems should be clear at this
point. To change the chain, you 'usually' have to remove the front
driveshaft yoke nut. Makes it easier anyway. Lift the two shafts and the
chain as one unit. There is a detent spring in the front case than likes
to go flying.
I'd suspect your chain is toast. The question is if the chain took out
the sprockets, many times they are fine.
Parts are usually available from www.quadratec.com or www.4wd.com I got
better prices from my local suppliers. Dealer prices were out of sight
plus not in stock.
Have fun.
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
> transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
> every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
> a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
> revolution.
>
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
> around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
>
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
> vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
>
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
> shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
>
> thanks
> paul
>
>
#8535 that is pretty decent on the NP 242. Not sure if it is in print
anymore.
Before you start, take the vehicle to a self service car wash and really
blast things underneath. Not a bad idea to repeat the process after you
have the transfer case off, helps keep the contamination down.
To take it off the vehicle, remove front and rear driveshafts, remove
tranny mount bolts, remmove speedo cable, vac switch cable, and the
shift lever. Support tranny, drop the main cross member, and drain the
oil. 5 or 6 bolts (depends on exact model), transfer case comes straight
back. It weighs about 90 pounds, make sure you don't drop it.
Set the unit on the bench, tailshaft up. Start at the top (rear), 3
bolts on the extension and remove, pop the snap ring holding the
bearing. Pull the center rear housing (speedo conects here). Pull the
back half of the main section. All problems should be clear at this
point. To change the chain, you 'usually' have to remove the front
driveshaft yoke nut. Makes it easier anyway. Lift the two shafts and the
chain as one unit. There is a detent spring in the front case than likes
to go flying.
I'd suspect your chain is toast. The question is if the chain took out
the sprockets, many times they are fine.
Parts are usually available from www.quadratec.com or www.4wd.com I got
better prices from my local suppliers. Dealer prices were out of sight
plus not in stock.
Have fun.
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
> transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
> every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
> a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
> revolution.
>
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
> around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
>
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
> vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
>
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
> shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
>
> thanks
> paul
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: NP 242 J rebuild questions - was 95 XJ growl at 40 + mph
At the very least, get a Chilton's or Hayes manual. I have the Chilton's
#8535 that is pretty decent on the NP 242. Not sure if it is in print
anymore.
Before you start, take the vehicle to a self service car wash and really
blast things underneath. Not a bad idea to repeat the process after you
have the transfer case off, helps keep the contamination down.
To take it off the vehicle, remove front and rear driveshafts, remove
tranny mount bolts, remmove speedo cable, vac switch cable, and the
shift lever. Support tranny, drop the main cross member, and drain the
oil. 5 or 6 bolts (depends on exact model), transfer case comes straight
back. It weighs about 90 pounds, make sure you don't drop it.
Set the unit on the bench, tailshaft up. Start at the top (rear), 3
bolts on the extension and remove, pop the snap ring holding the
bearing. Pull the center rear housing (speedo conects here). Pull the
back half of the main section. All problems should be clear at this
point. To change the chain, you 'usually' have to remove the front
driveshaft yoke nut. Makes it easier anyway. Lift the two shafts and the
chain as one unit. There is a detent spring in the front case than likes
to go flying.
I'd suspect your chain is toast. The question is if the chain took out
the sprockets, many times they are fine.
Parts are usually available from www.quadratec.com or www.4wd.com I got
better prices from my local suppliers. Dealer prices were out of sight
plus not in stock.
Have fun.
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
> transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
> every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
> a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
> revolution.
>
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
> around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
>
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
> vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
>
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
> shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
>
> thanks
> paul
>
>
#8535 that is pretty decent on the NP 242. Not sure if it is in print
anymore.
Before you start, take the vehicle to a self service car wash and really
blast things underneath. Not a bad idea to repeat the process after you
have the transfer case off, helps keep the contamination down.
To take it off the vehicle, remove front and rear driveshafts, remove
tranny mount bolts, remmove speedo cable, vac switch cable, and the
shift lever. Support tranny, drop the main cross member, and drain the
oil. 5 or 6 bolts (depends on exact model), transfer case comes straight
back. It weighs about 90 pounds, make sure you don't drop it.
Set the unit on the bench, tailshaft up. Start at the top (rear), 3
bolts on the extension and remove, pop the snap ring holding the
bearing. Pull the center rear housing (speedo conects here). Pull the
back half of the main section. All problems should be clear at this
point. To change the chain, you 'usually' have to remove the front
driveshaft yoke nut. Makes it easier anyway. Lift the two shafts and the
chain as one unit. There is a detent spring in the front case than likes
to go flying.
I'd suspect your chain is toast. The question is if the chain took out
the sprockets, many times they are fine.
Parts are usually available from www.quadratec.com or www.4wd.com I got
better prices from my local suppliers. Dealer prices were out of sight
plus not in stock.
Have fun.
paul wrote:
> OK this was the thread about the growling 95 XJ.
> I have gotten to the point where the front drive shaft is removed and the
> transfer case noise is gone.
> If I rotate the front drive shaft yoke by hand the bearing seems ok, but
> every 2 revolutions there is an audible clanking, almost as if the chain has
> a broken segment and is hitting the bottom of the case on the 2nd
> revolution.
>
> The lowest quote I've gotten is $700 - I could buy a remanufactured one for
> around $800. I just can't see dropping $700 for this repair......
>
> I think maybe I can do this.... the wife thinks she will be ok without a
> vehicle for a few days -
> Are there any special tools needed for this?
> Are there any special tricks to taking the transfer case off?
> Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?
>
> I figure worst case scenario is I end up taking everything in a box to a
> shop to put together if I screw it up too bad....
>
> thanks
> paul
>
>
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Redneckremsxj
Jeep Cherokee Forum
5
May 3, 2013 09:58 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)