I have a 93 JGC, with the V8 engine. The last couple of times I towed my
utility trailer full of mulch for my yard I have had the ABS light come on
and stay on. The trailer and contents weighs around 3000 lbs, which
shouldn't be a problem. For the most part the roads that I was traveling
were flat. Does anybody know if this is a sign of bad things to come, or is
this normal?

Also, hopefully unrelated, I know that my Jeep has a vacuum leak, and am
wondering how long it typically takes to find the leak and replace the hose?
(I know there is a lead because when I go up steep hills the AC begins to
blow through the defrost vents.)

 

YouGoFirst did pass the time by typing:
> I have a 93 JGC, with the V8 engine. The last couple of times I towed my
> utility trailer full of mulch for my yard I have had the ABS light come on
> and stay on. The trailer and contents weighs around 3000 lbs, which
> shouldn't be a problem. For the most part the roads that I was traveling
> were flat. Does anybody know if this is a sign of bad things to come, or is
> this normal?

Clean the connector on your ABS computer.
http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/computer-abs.jpg

Get a plastic bag, paper towel, a q-tip or ten, a zip tie
and some contact cleaner that's safe for plastic and a
bit of dilectric grease (sparkplug boot grease)

Disconnect the battery
Lift the latch and disconnect the harness
Take the airbox top and filter off. (this is your work sink)

Put the plastic bag in the airbox bottom, and some paper towels
now move the connector over the sink and open the shield, tap out
all the dirt and spray with cleaner (make sure it doesn't get on
the paint and if it does wipe it up pronto, it's like paint remover)

Clean the contacts on the ABS computer.

Put the shell back on and use the ziptie if the one on there broke.

Pack the dilectric grease into the connector and put it back on the
computer.

This fixes about 80% of all ABS light problems.

> Also, hopefully unrelated, I know that my Jeep has a vacuum leak, and am
> wondering how long it typically takes to find the leak and replace the hose?
> (I know there is a lead because when I go up steep hills the AC begins to
> blow through the defrost vents.)

How long.. depends on the leak. I use one of two methods.
1) spray the hoses with throttle body cleaner and listen for the engine to
stammer
2) use a vac pump and gauge and manually check every hose.

Start with the source port on the intake rail and work from there.
(not sure where that is on the V8, its on the back on the I6)

Double check every rubber boot to hardline connector, those usually crack
and I've replaced all of mine on the 93. After finding a whole lot of
cracks it was easier to just order a set of factory hoses and go for it.

--
DougW

 

YouGoFirst did pass the time by typing:
> I have a 93 JGC, with the V8 engine. The last couple of times I towed my
> utility trailer full of mulch for my yard I have had the ABS light come on
> and stay on. The trailer and contents weighs around 3000 lbs, which
> shouldn't be a problem. For the most part the roads that I was traveling
> were flat. Does anybody know if this is a sign of bad things to come, or is
> this normal?

Clean the connector on your ABS computer.
http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/computer-abs.jpg

Get a plastic bag, paper towel, a q-tip or ten, a zip tie
and some contact cleaner that's safe for plastic and a
bit of dilectric grease (sparkplug boot grease)

Disconnect the battery
Lift the latch and disconnect the harness
Take the airbox top and filter off. (this is your work sink)

Put the plastic bag in the airbox bottom, and some paper towels
now move the connector over the sink and open the shield, tap out
all the dirt and spray with cleaner (make sure it doesn't get on
the paint and if it does wipe it up pronto, it's like paint remover)

Clean the contacts on the ABS computer.

Put the shell back on and use the ziptie if the one on there broke.

Pack the dilectric grease into the connector and put it back on the
computer.

This fixes about 80% of all ABS light problems.

> Also, hopefully unrelated, I know that my Jeep has a vacuum leak, and am
> wondering how long it typically takes to find the leak and replace the hose?
> (I know there is a lead because when I go up steep hills the AC begins to
> blow through the defrost vents.)

How long.. depends on the leak. I use one of two methods.
1) spray the hoses with throttle body cleaner and listen for the engine to
stammer
2) use a vac pump and gauge and manually check every hose.

Start with the source port on the intake rail and work from there.
(not sure where that is on the V8, its on the back on the I6)

Double check every rubber boot to hardline connector, those usually crack
and I've replaced all of mine on the 93. After finding a whole lot of
cracks it was easier to just order a set of factory hoses and go for it.

--
DougW

 

YouGoFirst did pass the time by typing:
> I have a 93 JGC, with the V8 engine. The last couple of times I towed my
> utility trailer full of mulch for my yard I have had the ABS light come on
> and stay on. The trailer and contents weighs around 3000 lbs, which
> shouldn't be a problem. For the most part the roads that I was traveling
> were flat. Does anybody know if this is a sign of bad things to come, or is
> this normal?

Clean the connector on your ABS computer.
http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/computer-abs.jpg

Get a plastic bag, paper towel, a q-tip or ten, a zip tie
and some contact cleaner that's safe for plastic and a
bit of dilectric grease (sparkplug boot grease)

Disconnect the battery
Lift the latch and disconnect the harness
Take the airbox top and filter off. (this is your work sink)

Put the plastic bag in the airbox bottom, and some paper towels
now move the connector over the sink and open the shield, tap out
all the dirt and spray with cleaner (make sure it doesn't get on
the paint and if it does wipe it up pronto, it's like paint remover)

Clean the contacts on the ABS computer.

Put the shell back on and use the ziptie if the one on there broke.

Pack the dilectric grease into the connector and put it back on the
computer.

This fixes about 80% of all ABS light problems.

> Also, hopefully unrelated, I know that my Jeep has a vacuum leak, and am
> wondering how long it typically takes to find the leak and replace the hose?
> (I know there is a lead because when I go up steep hills the AC begins to
> blow through the defrost vents.)

How long.. depends on the leak. I use one of two methods.
1) spray the hoses with throttle body cleaner and listen for the engine to
stammer
2) use a vac pump and gauge and manually check every hose.

Start with the source port on the intake rail and work from there.
(not sure where that is on the V8, its on the back on the I6)

Double check every rubber boot to hardline connector, those usually crack
and I've replaced all of mine on the 93. After finding a whole lot of
cracks it was easier to just order a set of factory hoses and go for it.

--
DougW

 

Thanks, that helps a lot.


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Km6ag.12747$8q.8921@dukeread08...
> YouGoFirst did pass the time by typing:
>> I have a 93 JGC, with the V8 engine. The last couple of times I towed my
>> utility trailer full of mulch for my yard I have had the ABS light come
>> on
>> and stay on. The trailer and contents weighs around 3000 lbs, which
>> shouldn't be a problem. For the most part the roads that I was traveling
>> were flat. Does anybody know if this is a sign of bad things to come, or
>> is
>> this normal?
>
> Clean the connector on your ABS computer.
> http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/computer-abs.jpg
>
> Get a plastic bag, paper towel, a q-tip or ten, a zip tie
> and some contact cleaner that's safe for plastic and a
> bit of dilectric grease (sparkplug boot grease)
>
> Disconnect the battery
> Lift the latch and disconnect the harness
> Take the airbox top and filter off. (this is your work sink)
>
> Put the plastic bag in the airbox bottom, and some paper towels
> now move the connector over the sink and open the shield, tap out
> all the dirt and spray with cleaner (make sure it doesn't get on
> the paint and if it does wipe it up pronto, it's like paint remover)
>
> Clean the contacts on the ABS computer.
>
> Put the shell back on and use the ziptie if the one on there broke.
>
> Pack the dilectric grease into the connector and put it back on the
> computer.
>
> This fixes about 80% of all ABS light problems.
>
>> Also, hopefully unrelated, I know that my Jeep has a vacuum leak, and am
>> wondering how long it typically takes to find the leak and replace the
>> hose?
>> (I know there is a lead because when I go up steep hills the AC begins to
>> blow through the defrost vents.)
>
> How long.. depends on the leak. I use one of two methods.
> 1) spray the hoses with throttle body cleaner and listen for the engine to
> stammer
> 2) use a vac pump and gauge and manually check every hose.
>
> Start with the source port on the intake rail and work from there.
> (not sure where that is on the V8, its on the back on the I6)
>
> Double check every rubber boot to hardline connector, those usually crack
> and I've replaced all of mine on the 93. After finding a whole lot of
> cracks it was easier to just order a set of factory hoses and go for it.
>
> --
> DougW
>

 

Thanks, that helps a lot.


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Km6ag.12747$8q.8921@dukeread08...
> YouGoFirst did pass the time by typing:
>> I have a 93 JGC, with the V8 engine. The last couple of times I towed my
>> utility trailer full of mulch for my yard I have had the ABS light come
>> on
>> and stay on. The trailer and contents weighs around 3000 lbs, which
>> shouldn't be a problem. For the most part the roads that I was traveling
>> were flat. Does anybody know if this is a sign of bad things to come, or
>> is
>> this normal?
>
> Clean the connector on your ABS computer.
> http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/computer-abs.jpg
>
> Get a plastic bag, paper towel, a q-tip or ten, a zip tie
> and some contact cleaner that's safe for plastic and a
> bit of dilectric grease (sparkplug boot grease)
>
> Disconnect the battery
> Lift the latch and disconnect the harness
> Take the airbox top and filter off. (this is your work sink)
>
> Put the plastic bag in the airbox bottom, and some paper towels
> now move the connector over the sink and open the shield, tap out
> all the dirt and spray with cleaner (make sure it doesn't get on
> the paint and if it does wipe it up pronto, it's like paint remover)
>
> Clean the contacts on the ABS computer.
>
> Put the shell back on and use the ziptie if the one on there broke.
>
> Pack the dilectric grease into the connector and put it back on the
> computer.
>
> This fixes about 80% of all ABS light problems.
>
>> Also, hopefully unrelated, I know that my Jeep has a vacuum leak, and am
>> wondering how long it typically takes to find the leak and replace the
>> hose?
>> (I know there is a lead because when I go up steep hills the AC begins to
>> blow through the defrost vents.)
>
> How long.. depends on the leak. I use one of two methods.
> 1) spray the hoses with throttle body cleaner and listen for the engine to
> stammer
> 2) use a vac pump and gauge and manually check every hose.
>
> Start with the source port on the intake rail and work from there.
> (not sure where that is on the V8, its on the back on the I6)
>
> Double check every rubber boot to hardline connector, those usually crack
> and I've replaced all of mine on the 93. After finding a whole lot of
> cracks it was easier to just order a set of factory hoses and go for it.
>
> --
> DougW
>

 

Thanks, that helps a lot.


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Km6ag.12747$8q.8921@dukeread08...
> YouGoFirst did pass the time by typing:
>> I have a 93 JGC, with the V8 engine. The last couple of times I towed my
>> utility trailer full of mulch for my yard I have had the ABS light come
>> on
>> and stay on. The trailer and contents weighs around 3000 lbs, which
>> shouldn't be a problem. For the most part the roads that I was traveling
>> were flat. Does anybody know if this is a sign of bad things to come, or
>> is
>> this normal?
>
> Clean the connector on your ABS computer.
> http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/computer-abs.jpg
>
> Get a plastic bag, paper towel, a q-tip or ten, a zip tie
> and some contact cleaner that's safe for plastic and a
> bit of dilectric grease (sparkplug boot grease)
>
> Disconnect the battery
> Lift the latch and disconnect the harness
> Take the airbox top and filter off. (this is your work sink)
>
> Put the plastic bag in the airbox bottom, and some paper towels
> now move the connector over the sink and open the shield, tap out
> all the dirt and spray with cleaner (make sure it doesn't get on
> the paint and if it does wipe it up pronto, it's like paint remover)
>
> Clean the contacts on the ABS computer.
>
> Put the shell back on and use the ziptie if the one on there broke.
>
> Pack the dilectric grease into the connector and put it back on the
> computer.
>
> This fixes about 80% of all ABS light problems.
>
>> Also, hopefully unrelated, I know that my Jeep has a vacuum leak, and am
>> wondering how long it typically takes to find the leak and replace the
>> hose?
>> (I know there is a lead because when I go up steep hills the AC begins to
>> blow through the defrost vents.)
>
> How long.. depends on the leak. I use one of two methods.
> 1) spray the hoses with throttle body cleaner and listen for the engine to
> stammer
> 2) use a vac pump and gauge and manually check every hose.
>
> Start with the source port on the intake rail and work from there.
> (not sure where that is on the V8, its on the back on the I6)
>
> Double check every rubber boot to hardline connector, those usually crack
> and I've replaced all of mine on the 93. After finding a whole lot of
> cracks it was easier to just order a set of factory hoses and go for it.
>
> --
> DougW
>

 

YouGoFirst did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks, that helps a lot.

not a problem.

That ABS connector is right in the airstream
from the headlamp and collects all sorts of
dirt. It also sits right where the hood drains
all over it.

Had to clean that thing three times so far.

Been thinking about making a metal splash shield
but my lazy bone keeps getting in the way.

--
DougW

 

YouGoFirst did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks, that helps a lot.

not a problem.

That ABS connector is right in the airstream
from the headlamp and collects all sorts of
dirt. It also sits right where the hood drains
all over it.

Had to clean that thing three times so far.

Been thinking about making a metal splash shield
but my lazy bone keeps getting in the way.

--
DougW

 

YouGoFirst did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks, that helps a lot.

not a problem.

That ABS connector is right in the airstream
from the headlamp and collects all sorts of
dirt. It also sits right where the hood drains
all over it.

Had to clean that thing three times so far.

Been thinking about making a metal splash shield
but my lazy bone keeps getting in the way.

--
DougW