well thanks to all for their help last week with my starting problems -
they did apparently all relate to the choke not functioning properly on
account of a bad vacuum line to the pull-off... that was corrected,
however i found myself still having non-starts unless the motor was
completely cold. the temporary solution was to prop open the choke
plate with a piece of wood, which would allow me to start up
reliably... feeling like i wanted a more permanent solution i somewhere
gathered that it was possible to adjust the choke plate by bending the
linkage (uhh oh...).
unfortunately i think i screwed this up.
i foolishly bent the linkage on the drivers side - which is the linkage
between the choke plate and the fast idle cam - instead of the linkage
between the plate and the pull-off. afterwards she seemed to be happy
for a few hours, starting reliably without my little wooden totem -
except that she was idling a bit high. not making the connection
between the choke plate being cracked open and the fast idle, i then
attempted a roadside idle adjustment (uhhh oh!) during the course of
which i completely FUBAR'd every setting i could get my little
screwdriver on: the fast idle, the sol-vac, and the curb idle. now of
course they are all totally out of whack and when i tried to bend the
linkage back into its original position i find it impossible to get
right...
i checked out Dale's (i think) link on sprynet about the four stage
process for adj the carb but cannot even get it close to idling
properly... she revs way to high (about 1500-2000) and then when she
finally settles down, she seems to lope around at about 200 for maybe
1-3 seconds and then she dies. when i 'blip' the throttle she revs and
then stays up too high for about 20-30 seconds or until i blip it again
- then she dies.
i am certain that this is all related to my misguided misadventure with
the fast idle cam linkage, as there was no sign whatsoever of a vacuum
leak previous to my attempting to 'fix' the problem.
"better is the opposite of good" as my friend steve used to say...
can some of you guys walk me thru the best way to solve this problem
and get my carb dialed back in?
i appreciate all your help.
humbly yours,
b

 

I highly recommend you go get the Haynes CJ manual. It covers all the
carb setups. Trying to walk you through it piece by piece would take
weeks likely... ;-)

Or you can get a carb kit for about $20.00 that comes with all the
settings.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

bobvonbob wrote:
>
> well thanks to all for their help last week with my starting problems -
> they did apparently all relate to the choke not functioning properly on
> account of a bad vacuum line to the pull-off... that was corrected,
> however i found myself still having non-starts unless the motor was
> completely cold. the temporary solution was to prop open the choke
> plate with a piece of wood, which would allow me to start up
> reliably... feeling like i wanted a more permanent solution i somewhere
> gathered that it was possible to adjust the choke plate by bending the
> linkage (uhh oh...).
> unfortunately i think i screwed this up.
> i foolishly bent the linkage on the drivers side - which is the linkage
> between the choke plate and the fast idle cam - instead of the linkage
> between the plate and the pull-off. afterwards she seemed to be happy
> for a few hours, starting reliably without my little wooden totem -
> except that she was idling a bit high. not making the connection
> between the choke plate being cracked open and the fast idle, i then
> attempted a roadside idle adjustment (uhhh oh!) during the course of
> which i completely FUBAR'd every setting i could get my little
> screwdriver on: the fast idle, the sol-vac, and the curb idle. now of
> course they are all totally out of whack and when i tried to bend the
> linkage back into its original position i find it impossible to get
> right...
> i checked out Dale's (i think) link on sprynet about the four stage
> process for adj the carb but cannot even get it close to idling
> properly... she revs way to high (about 1500-2000) and then when she
> finally settles down, she seems to lope around at about 200 for maybe
> 1-3 seconds and then she dies. when i 'blip' the throttle she revs and
> then stays up too high for about 20-30 seconds or until i blip it again
> - then she dies.
> i am certain that this is all related to my misguided misadventure with
> the fast idle cam linkage, as there was no sign whatsoever of a vacuum
> leak previous to my attempting to 'fix' the problem.
> "better is the opposite of good" as my friend steve used to say...
> can some of you guys walk me thru the best way to solve this problem
> and get my carb dialed back in?
> i appreciate all your help.
> humbly yours,
> b

 

I highly recommend you go get the Haynes CJ manual. It covers all the
carb setups. Trying to walk you through it piece by piece would take
weeks likely... ;-)

Or you can get a carb kit for about $20.00 that comes with all the
settings.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

bobvonbob wrote:
>
> well thanks to all for their help last week with my starting problems -
> they did apparently all relate to the choke not functioning properly on
> account of a bad vacuum line to the pull-off... that was corrected,
> however i found myself still having non-starts unless the motor was
> completely cold. the temporary solution was to prop open the choke
> plate with a piece of wood, which would allow me to start up
> reliably... feeling like i wanted a more permanent solution i somewhere
> gathered that it was possible to adjust the choke plate by bending the
> linkage (uhh oh...).
> unfortunately i think i screwed this up.
> i foolishly bent the linkage on the drivers side - which is the linkage
> between the choke plate and the fast idle cam - instead of the linkage
> between the plate and the pull-off. afterwards she seemed to be happy
> for a few hours, starting reliably without my little wooden totem -
> except that she was idling a bit high. not making the connection
> between the choke plate being cracked open and the fast idle, i then
> attempted a roadside idle adjustment (uhhh oh!) during the course of
> which i completely FUBAR'd every setting i could get my little
> screwdriver on: the fast idle, the sol-vac, and the curb idle. now of
> course they are all totally out of whack and when i tried to bend the
> linkage back into its original position i find it impossible to get
> right...
> i checked out Dale's (i think) link on sprynet about the four stage
> process for adj the carb but cannot even get it close to idling
> properly... she revs way to high (about 1500-2000) and then when she
> finally settles down, she seems to lope around at about 200 for maybe
> 1-3 seconds and then she dies. when i 'blip' the throttle she revs and
> then stays up too high for about 20-30 seconds or until i blip it again
> - then she dies.
> i am certain that this is all related to my misguided misadventure with
> the fast idle cam linkage, as there was no sign whatsoever of a vacuum
> leak previous to my attempting to 'fix' the problem.
> "better is the opposite of good" as my friend steve used to say...
> can some of you guys walk me thru the best way to solve this problem
> and get my carb dialed back in?
> i appreciate all your help.
> humbly yours,
> b

 

I highly recommend you go get the Haynes CJ manual. It covers all the
carb setups. Trying to walk you through it piece by piece would take
weeks likely... ;-)

Or you can get a carb kit for about $20.00 that comes with all the
settings.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

bobvonbob wrote:
>
> well thanks to all for their help last week with my starting problems -
> they did apparently all relate to the choke not functioning properly on
> account of a bad vacuum line to the pull-off... that was corrected,
> however i found myself still having non-starts unless the motor was
> completely cold. the temporary solution was to prop open the choke
> plate with a piece of wood, which would allow me to start up
> reliably... feeling like i wanted a more permanent solution i somewhere
> gathered that it was possible to adjust the choke plate by bending the
> linkage (uhh oh...).
> unfortunately i think i screwed this up.
> i foolishly bent the linkage on the drivers side - which is the linkage
> between the choke plate and the fast idle cam - instead of the linkage
> between the plate and the pull-off. afterwards she seemed to be happy
> for a few hours, starting reliably without my little wooden totem -
> except that she was idling a bit high. not making the connection
> between the choke plate being cracked open and the fast idle, i then
> attempted a roadside idle adjustment (uhhh oh!) during the course of
> which i completely FUBAR'd every setting i could get my little
> screwdriver on: the fast idle, the sol-vac, and the curb idle. now of
> course they are all totally out of whack and when i tried to bend the
> linkage back into its original position i find it impossible to get
> right...
> i checked out Dale's (i think) link on sprynet about the four stage
> process for adj the carb but cannot even get it close to idling
> properly... she revs way to high (about 1500-2000) and then when she
> finally settles down, she seems to lope around at about 200 for maybe
> 1-3 seconds and then she dies. when i 'blip' the throttle she revs and
> then stays up too high for about 20-30 seconds or until i blip it again
> - then she dies.
> i am certain that this is all related to my misguided misadventure with
> the fast idle cam linkage, as there was no sign whatsoever of a vacuum
> leak previous to my attempting to 'fix' the problem.
> "better is the opposite of good" as my friend steve used to say...
> can some of you guys walk me thru the best way to solve this problem
> and get my carb dialed back in?
> i appreciate all your help.
> humbly yours,
> b

 

hi mike - thanks for replying - i have the haynes YJ manual but am
finding it less than informative. perhaps the CJ is better. i'll peel
the plastic at the local auto parts shop and have a look... one more
problem - i called up the local (the ONLY local) DC Jeep dealership to
see about getting a new fast idle cam linkage rod and was told that
they have no part number for that item and that i would have to order a
whole new carburator! this made me suspicious, so i pointed out that
this motor (258) came with a number of different carburator models and
i wasnt sure which one if any he was referring to, he said he had no
idea as he didnt have model numbers for the carbs... i then asked him
what KIND of carb he was looking at and he couldnt even tell me the
make! shouldnt a DC Jeep parts guy know a Carter carb? shouldnt he be
able to at least ORDER the parts for the carb? is this normal?
thanks for any advice...
b

 

hi mike - thanks for replying - i have the haynes YJ manual but am
finding it less than informative. perhaps the CJ is better. i'll peel
the plastic at the local auto parts shop and have a look... one more
problem - i called up the local (the ONLY local) DC Jeep dealership to
see about getting a new fast idle cam linkage rod and was told that
they have no part number for that item and that i would have to order a
whole new carburator! this made me suspicious, so i pointed out that
this motor (258) came with a number of different carburator models and
i wasnt sure which one if any he was referring to, he said he had no
idea as he didnt have model numbers for the carbs... i then asked him
what KIND of carb he was looking at and he couldnt even tell me the
make! shouldnt a DC Jeep parts guy know a Carter carb? shouldnt he be
able to at least ORDER the parts for the carb? is this normal?
thanks for any advice...
b

 

hi mike - thanks for replying - i have the haynes YJ manual but am
finding it less than informative. perhaps the CJ is better. i'll peel
the plastic at the local auto parts shop and have a look... one more
problem - i called up the local (the ONLY local) DC Jeep dealership to
see about getting a new fast idle cam linkage rod and was told that
they have no part number for that item and that i would have to order a
whole new carburator! this made me suspicious, so i pointed out that
this motor (258) came with a number of different carburator models and
i wasnt sure which one if any he was referring to, he said he had no
idea as he didnt have model numbers for the carbs... i then asked him
what KIND of carb he was looking at and he couldnt even tell me the
make! shouldnt a DC Jeep parts guy know a Carter carb? shouldnt he be
able to at least ORDER the parts for the carb? is this normal?
thanks for any advice...
b

 

There are very few Jeep folks left at DC..... They would treat the carb
as one unit though.

Did you break the rod? A Jeep or 4x4 shop might have such a part from
an old one.

The BBD info in the Haynes starts on page 4-18 and is very detailed.
Pretty much word for word with the directions that come with the carb
kit. The engine bay wiring details are right on too.

I wouldn't mess with anything more until I had the book in front of
me.....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

bobvonbob wrote:
>
> hi mike - thanks for replying - i have the haynes YJ manual but am
> finding it less than informative. perhaps the CJ is better. i'll peel
> the plastic at the local auto parts shop and have a look... one more
> problem - i called up the local (the ONLY local) DC Jeep dealership to
> see about getting a new fast idle cam linkage rod and was told that
> they have no part number for that item and that i would have to order a
> whole new carburator! this made me suspicious, so i pointed out that
> this motor (258) came with a number of different carburator models and
> i wasnt sure which one if any he was referring to, he said he had no
> idea as he didnt have model numbers for the carbs... i then asked him
> what KIND of carb he was looking at and he couldnt even tell me the
> make! shouldnt a DC Jeep parts guy know a Carter carb? shouldnt he be
> able to at least ORDER the parts for the carb? is this normal?
> thanks for any advice...
> b

 

There are very few Jeep folks left at DC..... They would treat the carb
as one unit though.

Did you break the rod? A Jeep or 4x4 shop might have such a part from
an old one.

The BBD info in the Haynes starts on page 4-18 and is very detailed.
Pretty much word for word with the directions that come with the carb
kit. The engine bay wiring details are right on too.

I wouldn't mess with anything more until I had the book in front of
me.....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

bobvonbob wrote:
>
> hi mike - thanks for replying - i have the haynes YJ manual but am
> finding it less than informative. perhaps the CJ is better. i'll peel
> the plastic at the local auto parts shop and have a look... one more
> problem - i called up the local (the ONLY local) DC Jeep dealership to
> see about getting a new fast idle cam linkage rod and was told that
> they have no part number for that item and that i would have to order a
> whole new carburator! this made me suspicious, so i pointed out that
> this motor (258) came with a number of different carburator models and
> i wasnt sure which one if any he was referring to, he said he had no
> idea as he didnt have model numbers for the carbs... i then asked him
> what KIND of carb he was looking at and he couldnt even tell me the
> make! shouldnt a DC Jeep parts guy know a Carter carb? shouldnt he be
> able to at least ORDER the parts for the carb? is this normal?
> thanks for any advice...
> b

 

There are very few Jeep folks left at DC..... They would treat the carb
as one unit though.

Did you break the rod? A Jeep or 4x4 shop might have such a part from
an old one.

The BBD info in the Haynes starts on page 4-18 and is very detailed.
Pretty much word for word with the directions that come with the carb
kit. The engine bay wiring details are right on too.

I wouldn't mess with anything more until I had the book in front of
me.....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

bobvonbob wrote:
>
> hi mike - thanks for replying - i have the haynes YJ manual but am
> finding it less than informative. perhaps the CJ is better. i'll peel
> the plastic at the local auto parts shop and have a look... one more
> problem - i called up the local (the ONLY local) DC Jeep dealership to
> see about getting a new fast idle cam linkage rod and was told that
> they have no part number for that item and that i would have to order a
> whole new carburator! this made me suspicious, so i pointed out that
> this motor (258) came with a number of different carburator models and
> i wasnt sure which one if any he was referring to, he said he had no
> idea as he didnt have model numbers for the carbs... i then asked him
> what KIND of carb he was looking at and he couldnt even tell me the
> make! shouldnt a DC Jeep parts guy know a Carter carb? shouldnt he be
> able to at least ORDER the parts for the carb? is this normal?
> thanks for any advice...
> b