slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
Guest
Posts: n/a
slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
Andrew, if you Google this subject, it was talked about a while back in this
group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
applcation.
Chris
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
>
> Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
>
> And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
>
> Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
applcation.
Chris
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
>
> Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
>
> And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
>
> Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
Andrew, if you Google this subject, it was talked about a while back in this
group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
applcation.
Chris
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
>
> Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
>
> And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
>
> Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
applcation.
Chris
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
>
> Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
>
> And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
>
> Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
Andrew, if you Google this subject, it was talked about a while back in this
group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
applcation.
Chris
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
>
> Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
>
> And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
>
> Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
applcation.
Chris
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
>
> Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
>
> And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
>
> Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
Andrew, if you Google this subject, it was talked about a while back in this
group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
applcation.
Chris
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
>
> Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
>
> And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
>
> Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
applcation.
Chris
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
>
> Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
>
> And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
>
> Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
I would be concerned about bits of gravel, etc. getting under the pads on an
off-road vehicle with slotted or drilled rotors. Heat isn't much of a
problem in non-racing use, but a jammed caliper could ruin your day.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
off-road vehicle with slotted or drilled rotors. Heat isn't much of a
problem in non-racing use, but a jammed caliper could ruin your day.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
I would be concerned about bits of gravel, etc. getting under the pads on an
off-road vehicle with slotted or drilled rotors. Heat isn't much of a
problem in non-racing use, but a jammed caliper could ruin your day.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
off-road vehicle with slotted or drilled rotors. Heat isn't much of a
problem in non-racing use, but a jammed caliper could ruin your day.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
I would be concerned about bits of gravel, etc. getting under the pads on an
off-road vehicle with slotted or drilled rotors. Heat isn't much of a
problem in non-racing use, but a jammed caliper could ruin your day.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
off-road vehicle with slotted or drilled rotors. Heat isn't much of a
problem in non-racing use, but a jammed caliper could ruin your day.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
I would be concerned about bits of gravel, etc. getting under the pads on an
off-road vehicle with slotted or drilled rotors. Heat isn't much of a
problem in non-racing use, but a jammed caliper could ruin your day.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
off-road vehicle with slotted or drilled rotors. Heat isn't much of a
problem in non-racing use, but a jammed caliper could ruin your day.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: slotted rotors & off-roading (rock crawling and racing)
Thanks,
What is the difference between solid vented rotors and slotted rotors?
Andrew Whitley
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:<bWikc.2443$u_4.251@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com>...
> Andrew, if you Google this subject, it was talked about a while back in this
> group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
> asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
> these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
> from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
> is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
> that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
> possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
> slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
> are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
> a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
> looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
> dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
> rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
> drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
> applcation.
>
> Chris
>
> "Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> > In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> > 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> > the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> > crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> > hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> > mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> > a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
> >
> > Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> > ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> > pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> > http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
> >
> > And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> > being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> > realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> > huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
> >
> > Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
What is the difference between solid vented rotors and slotted rotors?
Andrew Whitley
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:<bWikc.2443$u_4.251@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com>...
> Andrew, if you Google this subject, it was talked about a while back in this
> group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
> asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
> these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
> from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
> is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
> that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
> possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
> slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
> are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
> a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
> looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
> dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
> rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
> drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
> applcation.
>
> Chris
>
> "Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> > In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> > 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> > the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> > crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> > hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> > mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> > a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
> >
> > Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> > ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> > pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> > http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
> >
> > And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> > being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> > realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> > huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
> >
> > Any thoughts or first hand experiences?