Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Thanks to the advice of several here, as well as a very excellent
treatise on headlight wiring on one of the FSJ websites, I was able to
replace my headlight switchm get the lights all working and also
restore my engine instruments at the same time.

Now, however, a new (or maybe not) problem has arisen. When I turned on
my headlights after completing the repairs, the Hi Beams were on. When
I switch the floor switch to lo beams, the 20 amp fuse blew. I replaced
the fuse and decided to test-drive the car with the lights on Hi Beam,
in order to test the function of some other accessories I had hoped to
have fixed. However, only a few moments after driving out of the shop,
I noticed thin wisps of blue smoke emanating from behind the instrument
panel. I immediately shut everything down and put the GW back in the
shop.

Now I am perplexed, because I cannot be 100 percent certain where the
smoke was coming from. I pulled the instrument cluster, and looked at
the new light switch. Frankly, it didn't look like that was the source
of the smoke. There was no flashing or smudge on any of the wires, and
when I pulled the switch apart, there was no sign of arcing or sootng
of any contact or wire.

Right now, I am going to trace out the dimmer switch wiring with a
multi-tester to see if I can find a short there.

Any further thoughts or advice will be greatly appreciated, and thanks
again to all who weighed in and helped me get this far with it.

Best regards,

RB

Re: Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Update--

Smoke was coming from the new light switch. I unhooked the connector
after seeing wisps of smoke. The ceramic collar that holds the dome
light "on/off" switch became extremely hot. I now suspect a short in
the dome light circuit, but there could be a problem with any circuit
on that switch.

Re: Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Update--

Smoke was coming from the new light switch. I unhooked the connector
after seeing wisps of smoke. The ceramic collar that holds the dome
light "on/off" switch became extremely hot. I now suspect a short in
the dome light circuit, but there could be a problem with any circuit
on that switch.

Re: Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Update--

Smoke was coming from the new light switch. I unhooked the connector
after seeing wisps of smoke. The ceramic collar that holds the dome
light "on/off" switch became extremely hot. I now suspect a short in
the dome light circuit, but there could be a problem with any circuit
on that switch.

Re: Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Carefully check for a wiring error within your repairs. Also check wire
bundles for melted insulation and shorts that may be hidden. This secondary
damage could have occurred during the fire as wires were burned and faulted.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
Warn X8000i

> Update--
>
> Smoke was coming from the new light switch. I unhooked the connector
> after seeing wisps of smoke. The ceramic collar that holds the dome
> light "on/off" switch became extremely hot. I now suspect a short in
> the dome light circuit, but there could be a problem with any circuit
> on that switch.
>

Re: Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Carefully check for a wiring error within your repairs. Also check wire
bundles for melted insulation and shorts that may be hidden. This secondary
damage could have occurred during the fire as wires were burned and faulted.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
Warn X8000i

> Update--
>
> Smoke was coming from the new light switch. I unhooked the connector
> after seeing wisps of smoke. The ceramic collar that holds the dome
> light "on/off" switch became extremely hot. I now suspect a short in
> the dome light circuit, but there could be a problem with any circuit
> on that switch.
>

Re: Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Carefully check for a wiring error within your repairs. Also check wire
bundles for melted insulation and shorts that may be hidden. This secondary
damage could have occurred during the fire as wires were burned and faulted.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift
Warn X8000i

> Update--
>
> Smoke was coming from the new light switch. I unhooked the connector
> after seeing wisps of smoke. The ceramic collar that holds the dome
> light "on/off" switch became extremely hot. I now suspect a short in
> the dome light circuit, but there could be a problem with any circuit
> on that switch.
>

Re: Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Jim:

Thanks. I did it--tracing the wires wherever I could access them, and
also checking resistence with the tester on all wiring. I know the
switch splice is clean; believer the rest of the wiring to also.

I tested again and isolated the tiny emission of smoke to the new
headlight switch. The back of the switch gets too hot to touch,
especially around the ceramic shield and dome light actuator switch.

I have developed a new theory, with the help of an article by Mike
D'Ambrogia, lined on the IFSJA website, that the Halogen headlights
with which this GW is equipped are at fault. They draw too much power
and overheat the switch. I am fairly certain that the 1984 Grand
Wagoneer was NOT originally equipped with these much brighter lights.

RB

Re: Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Jim:

Thanks. I did it--tracing the wires wherever I could access them, and
also checking resistence with the tester on all wiring. I know the
switch splice is clean; believer the rest of the wiring to also.

I tested again and isolated the tiny emission of smoke to the new
headlight switch. The back of the switch gets too hot to touch,
especially around the ceramic shield and dome light actuator switch.

I have developed a new theory, with the help of an article by Mike
D'Ambrogia, lined on the IFSJA website, that the Halogen headlights
with which this GW is equipped are at fault. They draw too much power
and overheat the switch. I am fairly certain that the 1984 Grand
Wagoneer was NOT originally equipped with these much brighter lights.

RB

Re: Wiring Success...and a New Problem
 

Jim:

Thanks. I did it--tracing the wires wherever I could access them, and
also checking resistence with the tester on all wiring. I know the
switch splice is clean; believer the rest of the wiring to also.

I tested again and isolated the tiny emission of smoke to the new
headlight switch. The back of the switch gets too hot to touch,
especially around the ceramic shield and dome light actuator switch.

I have developed a new theory, with the help of an article by Mike
D'Ambrogia, lined on the IFSJA website, that the Halogen headlights
with which this GW is equipped are at fault. They draw too much power
and overheat the switch. I am fairly certain that the 1984 Grand
Wagoneer was NOT originally equipped with these much brighter lights.

RB