What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?

Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
each case?


Thanks in advance,

Bill

 

If you have been reading anything here you would know the problem with
shackle lifts.

From a previous post:
"On the front, it throws your steering (caster) way off. It can affect your
pinion angles on the front and the back. Longer shackle tend to make for
more sway, the springs may shift from sided to side. It also reduces your
departure and approach angles... the extended rear shackle is usually what
drags (or hangs up) coming off the rocks."

Go with the 4" suspension lift. Alternate and acceptable is a combination
suspension and body lift (no more that 2" on the body).


--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bqurab$26d723$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
> jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?
>
> Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
> each case?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>

 

If you have been reading anything here you would know the problem with
shackle lifts.

From a previous post:
"On the front, it throws your steering (caster) way off. It can affect your
pinion angles on the front and the back. Longer shackle tend to make for
more sway, the springs may shift from sided to side. It also reduces your
departure and approach angles... the extended rear shackle is usually what
drags (or hangs up) coming off the rocks."

Go with the 4" suspension lift. Alternate and acceptable is a combination
suspension and body lift (no more that 2" on the body).


--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bqurab$26d723$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
> jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?
>
> Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
> each case?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>

 

If you have been reading anything here you would know the problem with
shackle lifts.

From a previous post:
"On the front, it throws your steering (caster) way off. It can affect your
pinion angles on the front and the back. Longer shackle tend to make for
more sway, the springs may shift from sided to side. It also reduces your
departure and approach angles... the extended rear shackle is usually what
drags (or hangs up) coming off the rocks."

Go with the 4" suspension lift. Alternate and acceptable is a combination
suspension and body lift (no more that 2" on the body).


--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bqurab$26d723$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
> jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?
>
> Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
> each case?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>

 

Thanks guys,

This is for a CJ7, 83 year.


Thanks for the responses. I get the picture and understand.

Thanks again,

Bill
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bqurab$26d723$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
> jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?
>
> Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
> each case?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>

 

Thanks guys,

This is for a CJ7, 83 year.


Thanks for the responses. I get the picture and understand.

Thanks again,

Bill
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bqurab$26d723$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
> jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?
>
> Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
> each case?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>

 

Thanks guys,

This is for a CJ7, 83 year.


Thanks for the responses. I get the picture and understand.

Thanks again,

Bill
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bqurab$26d723$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
> jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?
>
> Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
> each case?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>

 

You said shackle lift so that means CJ or YJ, not TJ. It would
help to know which one we are talking about as well as what kind
of driving you do.

A shackle lift that gave you a true 2-1/2" of lift would mean
that the new shackles were 5" longer than the stock ones. These
will stress the mounts and collapse sideways. Not to mention the
squirrely handling in the meantime because of the change in
caster. (And Jeeps are not great in that department to start
with!) In other words "NO!" The reinforced shackles that gie you
an inch or so of lift are about all that you can safely use, even
these are not reccomended.

A spring lift will lift the frame and body up the full 4", lots
more tire clearance, lots more ground clearance under the middle.
Downside is that you still have to clear the axle pumkins (bigger
tires) and the driveshaft angle gets pretty wierd. The high angle
on the u-joints will cause early and regular u-joint failure, may
need a slip yoke eliminator with CV style U-joints.

While we are talking your other choice is a body lift. More tire
cleanance, no change in frame clearance. They come in 1" (easy),
2" (ok but you will need some tweaking of the radiator and the
shift lever), and 3" (don't do it, stresses the body mounts and
it tends to collapse!)

William Oliveri wrote:

> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
> jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?
>
> Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
> each case?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>

 

You said shackle lift so that means CJ or YJ, not TJ. It would
help to know which one we are talking about as well as what kind
of driving you do.

A shackle lift that gave you a true 2-1/2" of lift would mean
that the new shackles were 5" longer than the stock ones. These
will stress the mounts and collapse sideways. Not to mention the
squirrely handling in the meantime because of the change in
caster. (And Jeeps are not great in that department to start
with!) In other words "NO!" The reinforced shackles that gie you
an inch or so of lift are about all that you can safely use, even
these are not reccomended.

A spring lift will lift the frame and body up the full 4", lots
more tire clearance, lots more ground clearance under the middle.
Downside is that you still have to clear the axle pumkins (bigger
tires) and the driveshaft angle gets pretty wierd. The high angle
on the u-joints will cause early and regular u-joint failure, may
need a slip yoke eliminator with CV style U-joints.

While we are talking your other choice is a body lift. More tire
cleanance, no change in frame clearance. They come in 1" (easy),
2" (ok but you will need some tweaking of the radiator and the
shift lever), and 3" (don't do it, stresses the body mounts and
it tends to collapse!)

William Oliveri wrote:

> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
> jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?
>
> Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
> each case?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>

 

You said shackle lift so that means CJ or YJ, not TJ. It would
help to know which one we are talking about as well as what kind
of driving you do.

A shackle lift that gave you a true 2-1/2" of lift would mean
that the new shackles were 5" longer than the stock ones. These
will stress the mounts and collapse sideways. Not to mention the
squirrely handling in the meantime because of the change in
caster. (And Jeeps are not great in that department to start
with!) In other words "NO!" The reinforced shackles that gie you
an inch or so of lift are about all that you can safely use, even
these are not reccomended.

A spring lift will lift the frame and body up the full 4", lots
more tire clearance, lots more ground clearance under the middle.
Downside is that you still have to clear the axle pumkins (bigger
tires) and the driveshaft angle gets pretty wierd. The high angle
on the u-joints will cause early and regular u-joint failure, may
need a slip yoke eliminator with CV style U-joints.

While we are talking your other choice is a body lift. More tire
cleanance, no change in frame clearance. They come in 1" (easy),
2" (ok but you will need some tweaking of the radiator and the
shift lever), and 3" (don't do it, stresses the body mounts and
it tends to collapse!)

William Oliveri wrote:

> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain
> jeep "correctness" between these two lift configurations?
>
> Why would I want one over the other and would I still have 4" of lift in
> each case?
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>