Re: What tools do I need?
 

DougW wrote:
> Troy wrote:
>
>> I read somewhere on a website about having it 1 degree lowered for
>> axle wrap, but I'm sure I wont be able to judge a degree until I get
>> the angle finder huh... I wish I had more time today to mess with it
>> but I gotta be asleep by 7:30 to be up for work at 3am. ugh.
>
> By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf
> springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your
> getting axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast.
>
> Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within
> reason)
> Anyhoo..
>
> You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo
> on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt.
>
> To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks
> ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to
> the diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the
> other ear, and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is
> flat or you will get an off reading.

Heh... I forgot..

This is hard to do without a frame/axle lift under the Jeep.
You probably could get away with using just one of the ears, but
taking an average of the two is more accurate.

I've done it by moving the ZJ by hand. (not recommended) The garage
door and tool box would keep the zj from running me over. Since it was
in 4wheel N. O_o Play it safe and have someone (you trust) help you.

> The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5
> degrees.
> As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5
> high at the rear on a full tank.

Re: What tools do I need?
 

DougW wrote:
> Troy wrote:
>
>> I read somewhere on a website about having it 1 degree lowered for
>> axle wrap, but I'm sure I wont be able to judge a degree until I get
>> the angle finder huh... I wish I had more time today to mess with it
>> but I gotta be asleep by 7:30 to be up for work at 3am. ugh.
>
> By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf
> springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your
> getting axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast.
>
> Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within
> reason)
> Anyhoo..
>
> You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo
> on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt.
>
> To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks
> ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to
> the diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the
> other ear, and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is
> flat or you will get an off reading.

Heh... I forgot..

This is hard to do without a frame/axle lift under the Jeep.
You probably could get away with using just one of the ears, but
taking an average of the two is more accurate.

I've done it by moving the ZJ by hand. (not recommended) The garage
door and tool box would keep the zj from running me over. Since it was
in 4wheel N. O_o Play it safe and have someone (you trust) help you.

> The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5
> degrees.
> As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5
> high at the rear on a full tank.

Re: What tools do I need?
 

Show the wife this list:

Laser angle finder (to help align it)
Hydraulic vehicle hoist (to safely suspend the Jeep)
Giant air compressor (to tighten those bolts)
Every socket and driver availible at sears (you just never know)
Sawzall, Skillsaw, 40ton shop press, lathe, drill press, band saw,
and a 220V Welder.

;-)

Actually, a magnetized angle finder will get the job done.

HTH,

Carl

"Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
news:2cCdnbwzFOJOgZbYnZ2dnUVZ_t-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
>I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted TJ, and
>had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get some other
>stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was watching/helping
>screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to find the sweet spot all
>over again for my pinion angle.
>
> The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it last
> time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't find
> where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do it, but I'm
> not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort I'm sure, but if
> anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can measure my angles and
> get everything done perfectly I would be happy! I'm tired of crawling
> under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate to the yard, test driving,
> opening the gate again, crawling under, etc etc etc.
>
> Troy
>

Re: What tools do I need?
 

Show the wife this list:

Laser angle finder (to help align it)
Hydraulic vehicle hoist (to safely suspend the Jeep)
Giant air compressor (to tighten those bolts)
Every socket and driver availible at sears (you just never know)
Sawzall, Skillsaw, 40ton shop press, lathe, drill press, band saw,
and a 220V Welder.

;-)

Actually, a magnetized angle finder will get the job done.

HTH,

Carl

"Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
news:2cCdnbwzFOJOgZbYnZ2dnUVZ_t-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
>I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted TJ, and
>had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get some other
>stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was watching/helping
>screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to find the sweet spot all
>over again for my pinion angle.
>
> The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it last
> time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't find
> where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do it, but I'm
> not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort I'm sure, but if
> anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can measure my angles and
> get everything done perfectly I would be happy! I'm tired of crawling
> under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate to the yard, test driving,
> opening the gate again, crawling under, etc etc etc.
>
> Troy
>

Re: What tools do I need?
 

Show the wife this list:

Laser angle finder (to help align it)
Hydraulic vehicle hoist (to safely suspend the Jeep)
Giant air compressor (to tighten those bolts)
Every socket and driver availible at sears (you just never know)
Sawzall, Skillsaw, 40ton shop press, lathe, drill press, band saw,
and a 220V Welder.

;-)

Actually, a magnetized angle finder will get the job done.

HTH,

Carl

"Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
news:2cCdnbwzFOJOgZbYnZ2dnUVZ_t-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
>I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted TJ, and
>had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get some other
>stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was watching/helping
>screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to find the sweet spot all
>over again for my pinion angle.
>
> The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it last
> time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't find
> where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do it, but I'm
> not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort I'm sure, but if
> anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can measure my angles and
> get everything done perfectly I would be happy! I'm tired of crawling
> under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate to the yard, test driving,
> opening the gate again, crawling under, etc etc etc.
>
> Troy
>

Re: What tools do I need?
 

Hi Doug,
Thanks for adding the disclaimer: (within Reason) because there's
no comparison with what we call a ladder bars:
http://www.mspmall.com/raceline/part2.jpg and your suspension used on
the boats of 1959: http://www.jims59.com/images/1029cRearDiffDone.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf
> springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your getting
> axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast.
>
> Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within reason)
>
> Anyhoo..
>
> You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo
> on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt.
>
> To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks
> ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to the
> diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the other ear,
> and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is flat or you will
> get an off reading.
>
> The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5 degrees.
>
> As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5
> high at the rear on a full tank.
>
> --
> DougW

Re: What tools do I need?
 

Hi Doug,
Thanks for adding the disclaimer: (within Reason) because there's
no comparison with what we call a ladder bars:
http://www.mspmall.com/raceline/part2.jpg and your suspension used on
the boats of 1959: http://www.jims59.com/images/1029cRearDiffDone.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf
> springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your getting
> axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast.
>
> Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within reason)
>
> Anyhoo..
>
> You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo
> on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt.
>
> To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks
> ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to the
> diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the other ear,
> and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is flat or you will
> get an off reading.
>
> The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5 degrees.
>
> As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5
> high at the rear on a full tank.
>
> --
> DougW

Re: What tools do I need?
 

Hi Doug,
Thanks for adding the disclaimer: (within Reason) because there's
no comparison with what we call a ladder bars:
http://www.mspmall.com/raceline/part2.jpg and your suspension used on
the boats of 1959: http://www.jims59.com/images/1029cRearDiffDone.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf
> springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your getting
> axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast.
>
> Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within reason)
>
> Anyhoo..
>
> You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo
> on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt.
>
> To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks
> ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to the
> diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the other ear,
> and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is flat or you will
> get an off reading.
>
> The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5 degrees.
>
> As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5
> high at the rear on a full tank.
>
> --
> DougW

Re: What tools do I need?
 

The bushings will normally have a *tiny* bit of play, that's where that 1
degree comes from.

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:3lGOg.12373$JR5.10944@dukeread11...
> Troy wrote:
>
>> I read somewhere on a website about having it 1 degree lowered for
>> axle wrap, but I'm sure I wont be able to judge a degree until I get
>> the angle finder huh... I wish I had more time today to mess with it
>> but I gotta be asleep by 7:30 to be up for work at 3am. ugh.
>
> By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf
> springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your getting
> axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast.
>
> Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within reason)
>
> Anyhoo..
>
> You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo
> on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt.
>
> To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks
> ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to the
> diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the other ear,
> and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is flat or you will
> get an off reading.
>
> The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5
> degrees.
>
> As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5
> high at the rear on a full tank.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

Re: What tools do I need?
 

The bushings will normally have a *tiny* bit of play, that's where that 1
degree comes from.

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:3lGOg.12373$JR5.10944@dukeread11...
> Troy wrote:
>
>> I read somewhere on a website about having it 1 degree lowered for
>> axle wrap, but I'm sure I wont be able to judge a degree until I get
>> the angle finder huh... I wish I had more time today to mess with it
>> but I gotta be asleep by 7:30 to be up for work at 3am. ugh.
>
> By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf
> springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your getting
> axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast.
>
> Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within reason)
>
> Anyhoo..
>
> You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo
> on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt.
>
> To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks
> ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to the
> diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the other ear,
> and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is flat or you will
> get an off reading.
>
> The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5
> degrees.
>
> As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5
> high at the rear on a full tank.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>