Re: What are these things?
THANKS! NOW I'll go get greasy! :-)
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:3F327E13.7149CA89@sympatico.ca... > You got it, that is the sucker! > > Mike > > Joe wrote: > > > > This must be it? > > http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215567JGiprb > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:3F312B61.294D14A7@sympatico.ca... > > > It is not in that drawing. > > > > > > If you look on the valve cover side of the carb, you will see a black > > > round cap with an electric plug on it. The spring is inside of and part > > > of this cap. > > > > > > I tossed mine in the garbage and got a manual choke kit. > > > > > > Here in Canada, the stock 'timer' choke is crap in the winter. It opens > > > according to how long it has had power, not on how cold the engine > > > actually is... > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > Joe wrote: > > > > > > > > Using this: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...56215524tsCKbb > > > > Which spring is it? I don't want to do this more than once :-) > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > news:3F312111.F0740283@sympatico.ca... > > > > > It is spring loaded closed. > > > > > > > > > > It needs 12 volts to heat up the bi-metal spring and then the spring > > > > > unwinds and opens the choke up. > > > > > > > > > > I would be thinking the spring has broken. There are three screws or > > > > > three rivets holding the black cover on the choke. The spring is > > inside > > > > > there. > > > > > > > > > > It is a bugger to get off without first removing the carb. 'Really' > > > > > short screwdrivers work or I used a screwdriver bit in a vise grip > > > > > sticking out to the side so I have a right angle screwdriver. > > > > > > > > > > If the choke cover isn't on right, the choke can be forced open at > > rest > > > > > by turning the cover.... > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > Joe wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I am able to manually close the choke (in fact, when I close it by > > hand > > > > and > > > > > > crank her, she starts right up). > > > > > > At rest (ie. if I were to just rip the carb out and put it on the > > > > ground) > > > > > > would the choke be open or closed? I thought that I read that it > > should > > > > be > > > > > > closed and that it needs to be told to open. Is there something > > that > > > > closes > > > > > > it or should it just snap closed (like spring loaded)? > > > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > news:3F3115A4.3C8F87E7@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > The last 4 I have done I had to dismantle the choke and remove the > > pin > > > > > > > for cleaning and grease. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > If you follow the bar link down from the choke butterfly plate to > > the > > > > > > > choke heater element, you will find the choke pivot pin on the > > carb > > > > side > > > > > > > of the choke. It hooks to the bar that goes up to the choke. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > See if you can physically move it. If you open the throttle, you > > > > should > > > > > > > be able to manually close the choke. If the choke doesn't move or > > > > only > > > > > > > moves a little, follow the linkage down to the heater element and > > see > > > > if > > > > > > > that bar there will move. If not, it's cleaning time. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Joe wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the bimetal > > > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the > > carb > > > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem)" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > How can I fix that? Clean it out or replace? Do you have a > > picture > > > > > > that > > > > > > > > shows the pin so I get the right part? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > > > > > > news:3F307108.F8F7C5B4@sympatico.ca... > > > > > > > > > No. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The choke gets 12 volts, it opens. No power, no open. Dirty > > > > power > > > > > > > > > plug, half open. Not closing for cold starts, the pin from the > > > > bimetal > > > > > > > > > coil through the carb bracket to the linkage seized up at the > > carb > > > > > > > > > bracket hole. (common problem) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Joe wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 85 jeep cj7 258 i6 > > > > > > > > > > I think it's a MAT and I think the f'd up wires are causing > > my > > > > choke > > > > > > > > problem > > > > > > > > > > (choke isn't choking when cold so hard to start). Does this > > > > make > > > > > > sense? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message > > > > > > > > > > news:MVWXa.143911$R92.143627@news2.central.cox.net ... > > > > > > > > > > > Joe wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Can you tell me what these are? > > > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what1.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what2.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > http:\\jeep.dyndns.tv\images\jeep\what4.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > what1 and what2 are the same thing, what4 is different. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Possibly MAP or MAT sensors. They are on the intake rail > > > > right? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure > > > > > > > > > > > MAT = Manifold Air Temperature > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Looks like insulation has failed. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > What year/make/model, engine size? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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