Re: Valve Cover (cheap but good)
 

I took mine off and cleaned it really carefully on both the engine and
cover side. I think I had to bail some oil out of the way on the engine
side in a couple places.

I then used a clean rag and wash down the gasket area with acetone,
lighter fluid, carb or brake cleaner, any good grease cutter I can get
my hands on. Last time I used Coleman fuel. Once dry I buff it with a
clean cloth. One fingerprint and it will leak...

I then use UltraBlack RTV silicone and coat the head and valve cover
with a skim and sandwich a cork gasket in between. I tighten down the
two top nuts really gently and don't breath on the thing for 24 hours so
the RTV cures. No hooking up hoses, nothing.

Works quite well.

The cork gasket does seep through it's body to swell up like it should,
but never enough to cause a drip, just enough you can see it's wet.

I was thinking on drilling and tapping the head for bolts, but don't
need to.

Mike

pomerom@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> No leaks? Mine has plenty of leaks?!
>
> I'm about to work on my (very) leaking valve cover when I replace the
> vacuum lines you already know about.
>
> How did you do it? Gasket?? or sealer?? or both???
>
> What's the correct way to get your results?
>
> Mike
>
> On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 09:23:16 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >I don't have any valve cover bolts on my plastic cover. Only the two
> >nuts up top in the center. No leaks.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Joe wrote:
> >>
> >> I hope this doesn't show up twice...
> >> I'm finally getting around to fixing the little things on my 85 CJ7.
> >> Replaced some tubing, hoses, cool air intake duct, etc. Finally gonna
> >> replace the leaky valve cover and fix the stripped valve cover bolt hole.
> >> Any opinions on the best valve cover and a CHEAP place to get it from?
>
> Michael Pomeroy