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Update on my heater problem
I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even
though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and I'd be able to do the labor myself. I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the dash put back together, but with only the high setting working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), back into the resistor pack. Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the problem over the phone Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
We don't call them Stealerships for nothing.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Shazam wrote: > > I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even > though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted > them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed > the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. > > 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing > 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the > blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control > unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which > was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. > > This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just > change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and > I'd be able to do the labor myself. > > I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed > that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the > blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when > the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the > dash put back together, but with only the high setting > working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that > afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check > under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, > I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), > back into the resistor pack. > > Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, > because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why > the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, > it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 > times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of > the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with > JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the > problem over the phone > > Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what > you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
We don't call them Stealerships for nothing.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Shazam wrote: > > I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even > though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted > them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed > the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. > > 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing > 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the > blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control > unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which > was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. > > This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just > change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and > I'd be able to do the labor myself. > > I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed > that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the > blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when > the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the > dash put back together, but with only the high setting > working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that > afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check > under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, > I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), > back into the resistor pack. > > Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, > because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why > the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, > it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 > times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of > the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with > JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the > problem over the phone > > Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what > you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
We don't call them Stealerships for nothing.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Shazam wrote: > > I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even > though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted > them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed > the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. > > 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing > 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the > blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control > unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which > was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. > > This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just > change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and > I'd be able to do the labor myself. > > I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed > that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the > blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when > the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the > dash put back together, but with only the high setting > working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that > afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check > under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, > I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), > back into the resistor pack. > > Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, > because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why > the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, > it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 > times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of > the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with > JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the > problem over the phone > > Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what > you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Ditto Bill, to answer your question what the maximum amperage draw of the
blower motor is; the motor will be stamped on the housing with the rmp, voltage and max amperage, this is required by UL and NEC for all electrical devices. HarryS "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:4179E285.66F24CF1@cox.net... > We don't call them Stealerships for nothing. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > Shazam wrote: >> >> I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even >> though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted >> them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed >> the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. >> >> 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing >> 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the >> blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control >> unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which >> was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. >> >> This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just >> change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and >> I'd be able to do the labor myself. >> >> I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >> that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >> blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >> the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >> dash put back together, but with only the high setting >> working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that >> afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check >> under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, >> I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), >> back into the resistor pack. >> >> Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, >> because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why >> the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, >> it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 >> times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of >> the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with >> JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the >> problem over the phone >> >> Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what >> you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Ditto Bill, to answer your question what the maximum amperage draw of the
blower motor is; the motor will be stamped on the housing with the rmp, voltage and max amperage, this is required by UL and NEC for all electrical devices. HarryS "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:4179E285.66F24CF1@cox.net... > We don't call them Stealerships for nothing. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > Shazam wrote: >> >> I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even >> though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted >> them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed >> the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. >> >> 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing >> 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the >> blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control >> unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which >> was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. >> >> This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just >> change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and >> I'd be able to do the labor myself. >> >> I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >> that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >> blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >> the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >> dash put back together, but with only the high setting >> working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that >> afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check >> under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, >> I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), >> back into the resistor pack. >> >> Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, >> because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why >> the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, >> it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 >> times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of >> the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with >> JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the >> problem over the phone >> >> Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what >> you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Ditto Bill, to answer your question what the maximum amperage draw of the
blower motor is; the motor will be stamped on the housing with the rmp, voltage and max amperage, this is required by UL and NEC for all electrical devices. HarryS "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:4179E285.66F24CF1@cox.net... > We don't call them Stealerships for nothing. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > Shazam wrote: >> >> I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even >> though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted >> them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed >> the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. >> >> 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing >> 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the >> blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control >> unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which >> was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. >> >> This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just >> change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and >> I'd be able to do the labor myself. >> >> I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >> that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >> blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >> the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >> dash put back together, but with only the high setting >> working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that >> afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check >> under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, >> I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), >> back into the resistor pack. >> >> Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, >> because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why >> the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, >> it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 >> times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of >> the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with >> JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the >> problem over the phone >> >> Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what >> you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
NEC and UL apply to voltages on the grid or off the grid and over 50(??)
volts. Nothing on the vehicle has any sort of NEC or UL rating. HarryS wrote: > Ditto Bill, to answer your question what the maximum amperage draw of the > blower motor is; the motor will be stamped on the housing with the rmp, > voltage and max amperage, this is required by UL and NEC for all electrical > devices. > > HarryS > > > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:4179E285.66F24CF1@cox.net... > >> We don't call them Stealerships for nothing. >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ >> >>Shazam wrote: >> >>>I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even >>>though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted >>>them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed >>>the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. >>> >>>2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing >>>13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the >>>blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control >>>unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which >>>was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. >>> >>>This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just >>>change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and >>>I'd be able to do the labor myself. >>> >>>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >>>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >>>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >>>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >>>dash put back together, but with only the high setting >>>working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that >>>afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check >>>under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, >>>I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), >>>back into the resistor pack. >>> >>>Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, >>>because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why >>>the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, >>>it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 >>>times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of >>>the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with >>>JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the >>>problem over the phone >>> >>>Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what >>>you think. Thanks > > > |
Re: Update on my heater problem
NEC and UL apply to voltages on the grid or off the grid and over 50(??)
volts. Nothing on the vehicle has any sort of NEC or UL rating. HarryS wrote: > Ditto Bill, to answer your question what the maximum amperage draw of the > blower motor is; the motor will be stamped on the housing with the rmp, > voltage and max amperage, this is required by UL and NEC for all electrical > devices. > > HarryS > > > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:4179E285.66F24CF1@cox.net... > >> We don't call them Stealerships for nothing. >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ >> >>Shazam wrote: >> >>>I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even >>>though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted >>>them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed >>>the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. >>> >>>2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing >>>13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the >>>blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control >>>unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which >>>was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. >>> >>>This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just >>>change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and >>>I'd be able to do the labor myself. >>> >>>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >>>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >>>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >>>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >>>dash put back together, but with only the high setting >>>working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that >>>afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check >>>under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, >>>I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), >>>back into the resistor pack. >>> >>>Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, >>>because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why >>>the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, >>>it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 >>>times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of >>>the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with >>>JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the >>>problem over the phone >>> >>>Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what >>>you think. Thanks > > > |
Re: Update on my heater problem
NEC and UL apply to voltages on the grid or off the grid and over 50(??)
volts. Nothing on the vehicle has any sort of NEC or UL rating. HarryS wrote: > Ditto Bill, to answer your question what the maximum amperage draw of the > blower motor is; the motor will be stamped on the housing with the rmp, > voltage and max amperage, this is required by UL and NEC for all electrical > devices. > > HarryS > > > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:4179E285.66F24CF1@cox.net... > >> We don't call them Stealerships for nothing. >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ >> >>Shazam wrote: >> >>>I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even >>>though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted >>>them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed >>>the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. >>> >>>2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing >>>13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the >>>blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control >>>unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which >>>was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. >>> >>>This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just >>>change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and >>>I'd be able to do the labor myself. >>> >>>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >>>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >>>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >>>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >>>dash put back together, but with only the high setting >>>working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that >>>afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check >>>under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, >>>I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), >>>back into the resistor pack. >>> >>>Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, >>>because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why >>>the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, >>>it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 >>>times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of >>>the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with >>>JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the >>>problem over the phone >>> >>>Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what >>>you think. Thanks > > > |
Re: Update on my heater problem
IIRC its in the 4 to 5 amp range.
If the old one is really drawing 13 amps, it is toast internally. That works out to 156 watts or 1/5 hp. Way too much. For comparison, 13 amps is more than BOTH headlights on high beam. Shazam wrote: > I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even > though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted > them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed > the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. > > 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing > 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the > blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control > unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which > was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. > > This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just > change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and > I'd be able to do the labor myself. > > I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed > that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the > blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when > the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the > dash put back together, but with only the high setting > working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that > afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check > under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, > I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), > back into the resistor pack. > > Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, > because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why > the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, > it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 > times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of > the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with > JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the > problem over the phone > > Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what > you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
IIRC its in the 4 to 5 amp range.
If the old one is really drawing 13 amps, it is toast internally. That works out to 156 watts or 1/5 hp. Way too much. For comparison, 13 amps is more than BOTH headlights on high beam. Shazam wrote: > I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even > though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted > them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed > the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. > > 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing > 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the > blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control > unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which > was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. > > This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just > change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and > I'd be able to do the labor myself. > > I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed > that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the > blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when > the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the > dash put back together, but with only the high setting > working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that > afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check > under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, > I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), > back into the resistor pack. > > Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, > because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why > the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, > it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 > times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of > the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with > JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the > problem over the phone > > Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what > you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
IIRC its in the 4 to 5 amp range.
If the old one is really drawing 13 amps, it is toast internally. That works out to 156 watts or 1/5 hp. Way too much. For comparison, 13 amps is more than BOTH headlights on high beam. Shazam wrote: > I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even > though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted > them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed > the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. > > 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing > 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the > blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control > unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which > was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. > > This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just > change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and > I'd be able to do the labor myself. > > I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed > that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the > blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when > the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the > dash put back together, but with only the high setting > working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that > afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check > under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, > I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), > back into the resistor pack. > > Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, > because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why > the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, > it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 > times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of > the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with > JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the > problem over the phone > > Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what > you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
The heater fuses on mine are 25 amp.
This 'strongly' implies the heater can draw up to 20 amps when running. My alternator volt gauge sure jumps when high is hit anyway. If it was 'worn out' drawing 13 amps, then a 15 or 20 amp fuse would be just fine you would think. I think the $tealership was just looking for another sucker. Hey if you have an amp meter stop on by my place and we can compare the draws on my 2 new motors with your old one and see for sure eh? I am at Yonge and Finch. My meter will only go to 10 amps for draw so it's isn't good enough to test a blower. There also is a ground wire on the right side of the TJ instrument panel that is prone to coming loose. If loose, it can cause a serious heat problem in the wires, maybe enough to start melting solder and switches. There is a recall on the 99's for that. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Shazam wrote: > > I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even > though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted > them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed > the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. > > 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing > 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the > blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control > unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which > was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. > > This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just > change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and > I'd be able to do the labor myself. > > I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed > that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the > blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when > the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the > dash put back together, but with only the high setting > working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that > afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check > under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, > I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), > back into the resistor pack. > > Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, > because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why > the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, > it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 > times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of > the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with > JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the > problem over the phone > > Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what > you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
The heater fuses on mine are 25 amp.
This 'strongly' implies the heater can draw up to 20 amps when running. My alternator volt gauge sure jumps when high is hit anyway. If it was 'worn out' drawing 13 amps, then a 15 or 20 amp fuse would be just fine you would think. I think the $tealership was just looking for another sucker. Hey if you have an amp meter stop on by my place and we can compare the draws on my 2 new motors with your old one and see for sure eh? I am at Yonge and Finch. My meter will only go to 10 amps for draw so it's isn't good enough to test a blower. There also is a ground wire on the right side of the TJ instrument panel that is prone to coming loose. If loose, it can cause a serious heat problem in the wires, maybe enough to start melting solder and switches. There is a recall on the 99's for that. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Shazam wrote: > > I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even > though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted > them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed > the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. > > 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing > 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the > blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control > unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which > was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. > > This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just > change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and > I'd be able to do the labor myself. > > I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed > that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the > blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when > the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the > dash put back together, but with only the high setting > working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that > afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check > under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, > I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), > back into the resistor pack. > > Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, > because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why > the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, > it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 > times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of > the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with > JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the > problem over the phone > > Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what > you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
The heater fuses on mine are 25 amp.
This 'strongly' implies the heater can draw up to 20 amps when running. My alternator volt gauge sure jumps when high is hit anyway. If it was 'worn out' drawing 13 amps, then a 15 or 20 amp fuse would be just fine you would think. I think the $tealership was just looking for another sucker. Hey if you have an amp meter stop on by my place and we can compare the draws on my 2 new motors with your old one and see for sure eh? I am at Yonge and Finch. My meter will only go to 10 amps for draw so it's isn't good enough to test a blower. There also is a ground wire on the right side of the TJ instrument panel that is prone to coming loose. If loose, it can cause a serious heat problem in the wires, maybe enough to start melting solder and switches. There is a recall on the 99's for that. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Shazam wrote: > > I finally made it into the garage to properly check things out, even > though I was certain that it was the dash control unit, and wanted > them to confirm this before changing it, since I had already changed > the resistor pack on my 2000TJ, and checked the blower motor. > > 2 hours, and $171 later, they said that the blower motor was drawing > 13amps, which caused the resistor connector to melt, and damage the > blower switch...now they recommend that I change the dash control > unit, and blower motor, and since I'm at it...the resistor pack which > was changed in March of this year, at a grand total of $935. > > This put me in a difficult position, and decided that I would just > change the dash control unit, and sell the Jeep...cost of $196, and > I'd be able to do the labor myself. > > I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed > that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the > blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when > the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the > dash put back together, but with only the high setting > working...nothing on the low & medium settings. later on that > afternoon...during my coffee break, I decided to go out, and check > under the dash where the resistor pack is located....5 minutes later, > I was plugging in the connector (that the garage forgot to plus in), > back into the resistor pack. > > Now, I'm wondering...how many amps should the blower motor draw, > because I would like to get in touch with the garage, and ask them why > the estimate recommends I change pretty much everything, when in fact, > it was only the switch. At $7.19, I'd rather change the switch 3 > times a year, than to pay $935, and I'd like to ask for a refund of > the $171 for 2 hours of diagnotics, when I was on the phone with > JustJeep.com, for about 10 minutes, and they were able to diagnose the > problem over the phone > > Sounds like the dealership is trying to upsell?!? let me know what > you think. Thanks |
Re: Update on my heater problem
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote:
>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >dash put back together, Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch twice already. Joe Carroll 2K-TJ There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." Joseph Duemer |
Re: Update on my heater problem
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote:
>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >dash put back together, Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch twice already. Joe Carroll 2K-TJ There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." Joseph Duemer |
Re: Update on my heater problem
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote:
>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >dash put back together, Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch twice already. Joe Carroll 2K-TJ There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." Joseph Duemer |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might
have to go to the dealer Monday. "Joe Carroll" <jdcarroll@NOSPAMqwest.net> wrote in message news:l8tkn0tc4kp3mpcu1vvp3llnfdanou80sl@4ax.com... > On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote: > > >>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >>dash put back together, > > Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch > twice already. > > > Joe Carroll > 2K-TJ > > There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." > Joseph Duemer |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might
have to go to the dealer Monday. "Joe Carroll" <jdcarroll@NOSPAMqwest.net> wrote in message news:l8tkn0tc4kp3mpcu1vvp3llnfdanou80sl@4ax.com... > On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote: > > >>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >>dash put back together, > > Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch > twice already. > > > Joe Carroll > 2K-TJ > > There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." > Joseph Duemer |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might
have to go to the dealer Monday. "Joe Carroll" <jdcarroll@NOSPAMqwest.net> wrote in message news:l8tkn0tc4kp3mpcu1vvp3llnfdanou80sl@4ax.com... > On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote: > > >>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed >>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the >>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when >>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the >>dash put back together, > > Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch > twice already. > > > Joe Carroll > 2K-TJ > > There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." > Joseph Duemer |
Re: Update on my heater problem
It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
same good advice i have given many customers. Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load from the worn motor overheats them. Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would surge to 30A + on starting. What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one. Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly. Check these good prices out. http://tinyurl.com/53h3m http://tinyurl.com/6al2b http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6 Your's isnt bad. Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire. -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
same good advice i have given many customers. Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load from the worn motor overheats them. Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would surge to 30A + on starting. What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one. Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly. Check these good prices out. http://tinyurl.com/53h3m http://tinyurl.com/6al2b http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6 Your's isnt bad. Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire. -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
same good advice i have given many customers. Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load from the worn motor overheats them. Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would surge to 30A + on starting. What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one. Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly. Check these good prices out. http://tinyurl.com/53h3m http://tinyurl.com/6al2b http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6 Your's isnt bad. Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire. -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts
troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000 apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and oversize the bolt holding it on. That loose connection for sure can create a heat issue. Up here in the rust belt we see melted wires and switches all the time because of bad grounds or bad connections. Just had a punky connection on my always wet dimmer switch melt out my headlight switch. Both were 4 years old. I think the $7.00 and one bolt solution is the right one rather than a 'change it all', and hope it fixes it. (Means they have 'no clue in the world' what the trouble is to me) If they 'forget' or don't know about the wire, the gent is out 1000 freaking dollars and the switch 'still' will melt out!!!! Now when my 88 melted the blower switch, I bought a new motor first thing.... LOL! I still only changed the $7.00 switch, not the 300 or whatever dollar control. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Paul Calman wrote: > > It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the > same good advice i have given many customers. > Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load > from the worn motor overheats them. > Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it > blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A > with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would > surge to 30A + on starting. > What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one. > Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones > use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally > easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly. > Check these good prices out. > http://tinyurl.com/53h3m > http://tinyurl.com/6al2b > http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6 > Your's isnt bad. > > Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when > you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire. > -- > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts
troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000 apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and oversize the bolt holding it on. That loose connection for sure can create a heat issue. Up here in the rust belt we see melted wires and switches all the time because of bad grounds or bad connections. Just had a punky connection on my always wet dimmer switch melt out my headlight switch. Both were 4 years old. I think the $7.00 and one bolt solution is the right one rather than a 'change it all', and hope it fixes it. (Means they have 'no clue in the world' what the trouble is to me) If they 'forget' or don't know about the wire, the gent is out 1000 freaking dollars and the switch 'still' will melt out!!!! Now when my 88 melted the blower switch, I bought a new motor first thing.... LOL! I still only changed the $7.00 switch, not the 300 or whatever dollar control. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Paul Calman wrote: > > It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the > same good advice i have given many customers. > Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load > from the worn motor overheats them. > Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it > blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A > with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would > surge to 30A + on starting. > What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one. > Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones > use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally > easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly. > Check these good prices out. > http://tinyurl.com/53h3m > http://tinyurl.com/6al2b > http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6 > Your's isnt bad. > > Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when > you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire. > -- > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts
troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000 apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and oversize the bolt holding it on. That loose connection for sure can create a heat issue. Up here in the rust belt we see melted wires and switches all the time because of bad grounds or bad connections. Just had a punky connection on my always wet dimmer switch melt out my headlight switch. Both were 4 years old. I think the $7.00 and one bolt solution is the right one rather than a 'change it all', and hope it fixes it. (Means they have 'no clue in the world' what the trouble is to me) If they 'forget' or don't know about the wire, the gent is out 1000 freaking dollars and the switch 'still' will melt out!!!! Now when my 88 melted the blower switch, I bought a new motor first thing.... LOL! I still only changed the $7.00 switch, not the 300 or whatever dollar control. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Paul Calman wrote: > > It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the > same good advice i have given many customers. > Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load > from the worn motor overheats them. > Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it > blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A > with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would > surge to 30A + on starting. > What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one. > Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones > use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally > easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly. > Check these good prices out. > http://tinyurl.com/53h3m > http://tinyurl.com/6al2b > http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6 > Your's isnt bad. > > Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when > you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire. > -- > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Hi jason....according to the box, the number is: 1-05011214AA
I actually spoke with the vice-president of the dealership this morning to discuss my unhappiness with the quality of the service I received....Even if I don't get my money back for a false estimate...at least they know about it....and 1 unhappy customer is 1 too many.... On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:22:57 GMT, "E. Jason Brooks" <scriptlizard@nospizamscriptlizard.com> wrote: >Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might >have to go to the dealer Monday. |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Hi jason....according to the box, the number is: 1-05011214AA
I actually spoke with the vice-president of the dealership this morning to discuss my unhappiness with the quality of the service I received....Even if I don't get my money back for a false estimate...at least they know about it....and 1 unhappy customer is 1 too many.... On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:22:57 GMT, "E. Jason Brooks" <scriptlizard@nospizamscriptlizard.com> wrote: >Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might >have to go to the dealer Monday. |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Hi jason....according to the box, the number is: 1-05011214AA
I actually spoke with the vice-president of the dealership this morning to discuss my unhappiness with the quality of the service I received....Even if I don't get my money back for a false estimate...at least they know about it....and 1 unhappy customer is 1 too many.... On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:22:57 GMT, "E. Jason Brooks" <scriptlizard@nospizamscriptlizard.com> wrote: >Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might >have to go to the dealer Monday. |
Re: Update on my heater problem
> While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts
> troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000 > apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the > back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and > oversize the bolt holding it on. Ok Mike, you caught me generalizing, I don't work on the new ones. I'll buy the insufficient ground as casing heat. This sounds like DC inherited one of VW/Audi's electrical engineers. -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
> While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts
> troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000 > apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the > back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and > oversize the bolt holding it on. Ok Mike, you caught me generalizing, I don't work on the new ones. I'll buy the insufficient ground as casing heat. This sounds like DC inherited one of VW/Audi's electrical engineers. -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
> While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts
> troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000 > apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the > back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and > oversize the bolt holding it on. Ok Mike, you caught me generalizing, I don't work on the new ones. I'll buy the insufficient ground as casing heat. This sounds like DC inherited one of VW/Audi's electrical engineers. -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Paul Calman wrote:
> > > While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts > > troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000 > > apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the > > back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and > > oversize the bolt holding it on. > > Ok Mike, you caught me generalizing, I don't work on the new ones. I'll buy > the insufficient ground as casing heat. > This sounds like DC inherited one of VW/Audi's electrical engineers. > > -- > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California Where did all those Lucas guys go? ;-) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Paul Calman wrote:
> > > While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts > > troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000 > > apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the > > back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and > > oversize the bolt holding it on. > > Ok Mike, you caught me generalizing, I don't work on the new ones. I'll buy > the insufficient ground as casing heat. > This sounds like DC inherited one of VW/Audi's electrical engineers. > > -- > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California Where did all those Lucas guys go? ;-) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
Re: Update on my heater problem
Paul Calman wrote:
> > > While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts > > troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000 > > apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the > > back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and > > oversize the bolt holding it on. > > Ok Mike, you caught me generalizing, I don't work on the new ones. I'll buy > the insufficient ground as casing heat. > This sounds like DC inherited one of VW/Audi's electrical engineers. > > -- > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California Where did all those Lucas guys go? ;-) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
Re: Update on my heater problem
They (Lucas) build VW's injection systems.
I still have 2 bikes with lucas systems, and a Honda with Lucas plug wires. it keeps me on my toes. -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
They (Lucas) build VW's injection systems.
I still have 2 bikes with lucas systems, and a Honda with Lucas plug wires. it keeps me on my toes. -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: Update on my heater problem
They (Lucas) build VW's injection systems.
I still have 2 bikes with lucas systems, and a Honda with Lucas plug wires. it keeps me on my toes. -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
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