Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

If you decide to do the U joints yourself, ask for advice on how to pull
the wheel bearing hub from folks who live in the rust belt. Bill lives
in LA land where rust is not the big issue.


breton wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Thanks for all of your opinions. I'm trying to get things together.
> I'll give the suggested shops a call and see what happens. I really
> would prefer not to get rid of this ride... I have to make the sound
> choice though...we'll see.
>
> Best,
> Breton
>
> On Apr 26, 9:13 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Real Jeeps protect their Universal-Joints via enclosed knuckles:http://www.----------.com/dana25knuckle.jpgAnd of course being a Dana 25 it
>>has a bigger ring and pinion than your rear axle Dana 35c.
>>
>>"L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net> wrote in messagenews:46311ab2$0$16388$88260bb3@free.teranew s.com...
>>
>>
>>> Have a weekend and a mechanically incline friend?
>>>http://www.----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm
>>>http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257794
>>>Use lots of penetrating fluid, and maybe a couple extra hub bolts to beat
>>>on, to drive the hub spindle out of the knuckle
>>>http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/
>>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
>>>mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>>
>>--
>>Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
>
>

Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts
and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I
have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH,
a 10 pounder on it)

I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.

I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you
start, to use as a beat on bolt.

Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I
can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after
all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get
the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the
steering cut.

I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it
move.

I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or
hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out
without messing with the hub or bearings.

I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes
apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth
it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.

The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the
u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace
it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most
don't seem to be aware of this.

Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.

Good luck!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

breton wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I just figured out that my front left u-joint is busted (the one by
> the wheel). It is the bearings that are broken and not the actual u-
> joint. The other one is binding up a little bit. The jeep is a 93
> cherokee sport (v6 4-wheel drive) with 130k in Massachusetts (rust!).
> The guy who was looking at mentioned that there was a little bit of
> play in the front right left ball joint when leveraged with a crow
> bar. I proceeded to get a quote and it totaled up to 1300 dollars for
> the both ball and u-joints. Does this sound reasonable (approx. 650
> parts and 650 labor)? I'd try to handle the u-joins myself (I've done
> water pump, brakes, suspension, etc.) but I do not have any air tools
> and I've heard getting the hub/bearing assembly off is really
> difficult. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the boston area? I
> bought this jeep for a few hundred and I really can't spend so much on
> it considering the body has some rot etc. Any help would be
> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
>
> Thanks!!
> Breton
>

Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts
and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I
have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH,
a 10 pounder on it)

I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.

I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you
start, to use as a beat on bolt.

Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I
can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after
all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get
the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the
steering cut.

I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it
move.

I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or
hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out
without messing with the hub or bearings.

I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes
apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth
it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.

The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the
u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace
it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most
don't seem to be aware of this.

Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.

Good luck!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

breton wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I just figured out that my front left u-joint is busted (the one by
> the wheel). It is the bearings that are broken and not the actual u-
> joint. The other one is binding up a little bit. The jeep is a 93
> cherokee sport (v6 4-wheel drive) with 130k in Massachusetts (rust!).
> The guy who was looking at mentioned that there was a little bit of
> play in the front right left ball joint when leveraged with a crow
> bar. I proceeded to get a quote and it totaled up to 1300 dollars for
> the both ball and u-joints. Does this sound reasonable (approx. 650
> parts and 650 labor)? I'd try to handle the u-joins myself (I've done
> water pump, brakes, suspension, etc.) but I do not have any air tools
> and I've heard getting the hub/bearing assembly off is really
> difficult. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the boston area? I
> bought this jeep for a few hundred and I really can't spend so much on
> it considering the body has some rot etc. Any help would be
> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
>
> Thanks!!
> Breton
>

Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts
and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I
have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH,
a 10 pounder on it)

I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.

I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you
start, to use as a beat on bolt.

Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I
can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after
all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get
the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the
steering cut.

I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it
move.

I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or
hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out
without messing with the hub or bearings.

I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes
apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth
it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.

The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the
u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace
it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most
don't seem to be aware of this.

Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.

Good luck!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

breton wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I just figured out that my front left u-joint is busted (the one by
> the wheel). It is the bearings that are broken and not the actual u-
> joint. The other one is binding up a little bit. The jeep is a 93
> cherokee sport (v6 4-wheel drive) with 130k in Massachusetts (rust!).
> The guy who was looking at mentioned that there was a little bit of
> play in the front right left ball joint when leveraged with a crow
> bar. I proceeded to get a quote and it totaled up to 1300 dollars for
> the both ball and u-joints. Does this sound reasonable (approx. 650
> parts and 650 labor)? I'd try to handle the u-joins myself (I've done
> water pump, brakes, suspension, etc.) but I do not have any air tools
> and I've heard getting the hub/bearing assembly off is really
> difficult. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the boston area? I
> bought this jeep for a few hundred and I really can't spend so much on
> it considering the body has some rot etc. Any help would be
> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
>
> Thanks!!
> Breton
>

Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts
and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I
have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH,
a 10 pounder on it)

I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.

I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you
start, to use as a beat on bolt.

Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I
can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after
all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get
the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the
steering cut.

I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it
move.

I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or
hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out
without messing with the hub or bearings.

I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes
apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth
it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.

The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the
u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace
it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most
don't seem to be aware of this.

Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.

Good luck!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

breton wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I just figured out that my front left u-joint is busted (the one by
> the wheel). It is the bearings that are broken and not the actual u-
> joint. The other one is binding up a little bit. The jeep is a 93
> cherokee sport (v6 4-wheel drive) with 130k in Massachusetts (rust!).
> The guy who was looking at mentioned that there was a little bit of
> play in the front right left ball joint when leveraged with a crow
> bar. I proceeded to get a quote and it totaled up to 1300 dollars for
> the both ball and u-joints. Does this sound reasonable (approx. 650
> parts and 650 labor)? I'd try to handle the u-joins myself (I've done
> water pump, brakes, suspension, etc.) but I do not have any air tools
> and I've heard getting the hub/bearing assembly off is really
> difficult. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the boston area? I
> bought this jeep for a few hundred and I really can't spend so much on
> it considering the body has some rot etc. Any help would be
> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
>
> Thanks!!
> Breton
>

Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

What Mike said: I have a 6# sledge hammer with the handle cut down to
12". Don't even bother trying this without something of this heft. I put
the rig up on 6 ton jackstands ($18 a pair on sale) because they go to a
full 24", lets you swing at the lower bolt from underneath.

Mike Romain wrote:

> I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
> Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
> wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts
> and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I
> have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH,
> a 10 pounder on it)
>
> I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.
>
> I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you
> start, to use as a beat on bolt.
>
> Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I
> can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after
> all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get
> the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the
> steering cut.
>
> I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it
> move.
>
> I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or
> hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out
> without messing with the hub or bearings.
>
> I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes
> apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth
> it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.
>
> The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the
> u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace
> it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most
> don't seem to be aware of this.
>
> Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
> at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
> about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
> moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> breton wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I just figured out that my front left u-joint is busted (the one by
>> the wheel). It is the bearings that are broken and not the actual u-
>> joint. The other one is binding up a little bit. The jeep is a 93
>> cherokee sport (v6 4-wheel drive) with 130k in Massachusetts (rust!).
>> The guy who was looking at mentioned that there was a little bit of
>> play in the front right left ball joint when leveraged with a crow
>> bar. I proceeded to get a quote and it totaled up to 1300 dollars for
>> the both ball and u-joints. Does this sound reasonable (approx. 650
>> parts and 650 labor)? I'd try to handle the u-joins myself (I've done
>> water pump, brakes, suspension, etc.) but I do not have any air tools
>> and I've heard getting the hub/bearing assembly off is really
>> difficult. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the boston area? I
>> bought this jeep for a few hundred and I really can't spend so much on
>> it considering the body has some rot etc. Any help would be
>> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
>> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
>>
>> Thanks!!
>> Breton
>>

Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

What Mike said: I have a 6# sledge hammer with the handle cut down to
12". Don't even bother trying this without something of this heft. I put
the rig up on 6 ton jackstands ($18 a pair on sale) because they go to a
full 24", lets you swing at the lower bolt from underneath.

Mike Romain wrote:

> I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
> Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
> wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts
> and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I
> have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH,
> a 10 pounder on it)
>
> I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.
>
> I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you
> start, to use as a beat on bolt.
>
> Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I
> can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after
> all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get
> the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the
> steering cut.
>
> I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it
> move.
>
> I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or
> hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out
> without messing with the hub or bearings.
>
> I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes
> apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth
> it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.
>
> The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the
> u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace
> it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most
> don't seem to be aware of this.
>
> Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
> at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
> about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
> moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> breton wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I just figured out that my front left u-joint is busted (the one by
>> the wheel). It is the bearings that are broken and not the actual u-
>> joint. The other one is binding up a little bit. The jeep is a 93
>> cherokee sport (v6 4-wheel drive) with 130k in Massachusetts (rust!).
>> The guy who was looking at mentioned that there was a little bit of
>> play in the front right left ball joint when leveraged with a crow
>> bar. I proceeded to get a quote and it totaled up to 1300 dollars for
>> the both ball and u-joints. Does this sound reasonable (approx. 650
>> parts and 650 labor)? I'd try to handle the u-joins myself (I've done
>> water pump, brakes, suspension, etc.) but I do not have any air tools
>> and I've heard getting the hub/bearing assembly off is really
>> difficult. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the boston area? I
>> bought this jeep for a few hundred and I really can't spend so much on
>> it considering the body has some rot etc. Any help would be
>> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
>> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
>>
>> Thanks!!
>> Breton
>>

Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

What Mike said: I have a 6# sledge hammer with the handle cut down to
12". Don't even bother trying this without something of this heft. I put
the rig up on 6 ton jackstands ($18 a pair on sale) because they go to a
full 24", lets you swing at the lower bolt from underneath.

Mike Romain wrote:

> I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
> Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
> wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts
> and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I
> have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH,
> a 10 pounder on it)
>
> I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.
>
> I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you
> start, to use as a beat on bolt.
>
> Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I
> can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after
> all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get
> the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the
> steering cut.
>
> I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it
> move.
>
> I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or
> hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out
> without messing with the hub or bearings.
>
> I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes
> apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth
> it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.
>
> The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the
> u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace
> it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most
> don't seem to be aware of this.
>
> Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
> at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
> about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
> moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> breton wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I just figured out that my front left u-joint is busted (the one by
>> the wheel). It is the bearings that are broken and not the actual u-
>> joint. The other one is binding up a little bit. The jeep is a 93
>> cherokee sport (v6 4-wheel drive) with 130k in Massachusetts (rust!).
>> The guy who was looking at mentioned that there was a little bit of
>> play in the front right left ball joint when leveraged with a crow
>> bar. I proceeded to get a quote and it totaled up to 1300 dollars for
>> the both ball and u-joints. Does this sound reasonable (approx. 650
>> parts and 650 labor)? I'd try to handle the u-joins myself (I've done
>> water pump, brakes, suspension, etc.) but I do not have any air tools
>> and I've heard getting the hub/bearing assembly off is really
>> difficult. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the boston area? I
>> bought this jeep for a few hundred and I really can't spend so much on
>> it considering the body has some rot etc. Any help would be
>> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
>> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
>>
>> Thanks!!
>> Breton
>>

Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

What Mike said: I have a 6# sledge hammer with the handle cut down to
12". Don't even bother trying this without something of this heft. I put
the rig up on 6 ton jackstands ($18 a pair on sale) because they go to a
full 24", lets you swing at the lower bolt from underneath.

Mike Romain wrote:

> I live in the rust belt also. The last steering u-joint that went on my
> Cherokee happened as I am loading it for a camping trip, I turned the
> wheel to shuffle it for loading and noticed it. I sent my son for parts
> and had it changed and the wheel back on in an hour. (only because I
> have done a bunch and was in no mood to fool around so used my real BFH,
> a 10 pounder on it)
>
> I have an extra bolt I use to pound on so I don't damage the stock ones.
>
> I recommend you pull one bolt out and go get a replacement before you
> start, to use as a beat on bolt.
>
> Once the wheel and brakes are off, I cut the steering to the side so I
> can get a clear swing at the bolt that is in the back to hit it after
> all 3 are loosened off. I then cut the steering the other way to get
> the other bolt. The bottom one I can swing at from the front with the
> steering cut.
>
> I also use penetrating oil on the seam and the bolt ends to help make it
> move.
>
> I do not undo the big center axle nut unless I am changing the axle or
> hub, it all pulls out as one piece and the u-joint can be pressed out
> without messing with the hub or bearings.
>
> I also use a good coating of antiseize compound on the seam so it comes
> apart really easily the next time. That silver messy stuff is worth
> it's weight in gold up here in the rust belt.
>
> The ball joint is another matter. But, if you already have done the
> u-joint, then the hub will pull out easy for the 'mechanic' to replace
> it. You can tell him he doesn't need to undo the axle nut also as most
> don't seem to be aware of this.
>
> Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
> at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
> about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
> moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> breton wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I just figured out that my front left u-joint is busted (the one by
>> the wheel). It is the bearings that are broken and not the actual u-
>> joint. The other one is binding up a little bit. The jeep is a 93
>> cherokee sport (v6 4-wheel drive) with 130k in Massachusetts (rust!).
>> The guy who was looking at mentioned that there was a little bit of
>> play in the front right left ball joint when leveraged with a crow
>> bar. I proceeded to get a quote and it totaled up to 1300 dollars for
>> the both ball and u-joints. Does this sound reasonable (approx. 650
>> parts and 650 labor)? I'd try to handle the u-joins myself (I've done
>> water pump, brakes, suspension, etc.) but I do not have any air tools
>> and I've heard getting the hub/bearing assembly off is really
>> difficult. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the boston area? I
>> bought this jeep for a few hundred and I really can't spend so much on
>> it considering the body has some rot etc. Any help would be
>> appreciated. I'm not so concerned about having it run like a dream.
>> I'd just like to make sure it is safe on long drives.
>>
>> Thanks!!
>> Breton
>>

Re: u-joints and ball joints on 93 cherokee sport
 

Mike Romain wrote:

> Ball joints are a 'ton' of work when rusty and don't seat back in well
> at all without the proper press. I also have had to cut the nuts off
> about 80% of the ones I have done because the joint spins before the nut
> moves on the threads or there is no flats left on the nut to grab.

Mike, try this: get a helper on the impact wrench then as he spins the
nut/bolt, rap it nicely with that BFH. The impact of the hammer will
freeze it just long enough to start the nut spinning.

I'm beginning to believe that most of the accidents prevented by salting
roads actually comes from the fact that half the cars are so rusted out
from the salt that they aren't on the road to get involved in accidents.

--
Will Honea