slow flasher problem part 2
Okay I replaced the tail lights (2057's) and front flashers (1057's)
(along with the front and rear marker bulbs (194's)... I hit all the sockets with CRC and some rags. The front flashers sockets seem to be packed with some sort of insulating grease (zinc paste?) mustard yellow stuff with the consistency of peanut butter. I ended up fixing the SLOW flasher but they are both still slow just not as slow (comparing with my Boss' identical YJ). Irritatingly slow but better than the 2 second interval the right flasher was doing before I cleaned and replaced them. Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. Question 2: is this zinc paste stock or something that somebody packed in there to reduce corrosion, but that may be adding resistance and thus causing the slow flash? |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
The mounting does make up the ground. The yellow paste is factory and
should not cause the problem -- JimG 80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries "Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message news:3FACA095.1080903@erols.com... > Okay I replaced the tail lights (2057's) and front flashers (1057's) > (along with the front and rear marker bulbs (194's)... I hit all the > sockets with CRC and some rags. The front flashers sockets seem to be > packed with some sort of insulating grease (zinc paste?) mustard yellow > stuff with the consistency of peanut butter. I ended up fixing the SLOW > flasher but they are both still slow just not as slow (comparing with my > Boss' identical YJ). Irritatingly slow but better than the 2 second > interval the right flasher was doing before I cleaned and replaced them. > > Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing > play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are > part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. > > Question 2: is this zinc paste stock or something that somebody packed > in there to reduce corrosion, but that may be adding resistance and thus > causing the slow flash? > |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
The mounting does make up the ground. The yellow paste is factory and
should not cause the problem -- JimG 80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries "Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message news:3FACA095.1080903@erols.com... > Okay I replaced the tail lights (2057's) and front flashers (1057's) > (along with the front and rear marker bulbs (194's)... I hit all the > sockets with CRC and some rags. The front flashers sockets seem to be > packed with some sort of insulating grease (zinc paste?) mustard yellow > stuff with the consistency of peanut butter. I ended up fixing the SLOW > flasher but they are both still slow just not as slow (comparing with my > Boss' identical YJ). Irritatingly slow but better than the 2 second > interval the right flasher was doing before I cleaned and replaced them. > > Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing > play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are > part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. > > Question 2: is this zinc paste stock or something that somebody packed > in there to reduce corrosion, but that may be adding resistance and thus > causing the slow flash? > |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
The mounting does make up the ground. The yellow paste is factory and
should not cause the problem -- JimG 80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries "Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message news:3FACA095.1080903@erols.com... > Okay I replaced the tail lights (2057's) and front flashers (1057's) > (along with the front and rear marker bulbs (194's)... I hit all the > sockets with CRC and some rags. The front flashers sockets seem to be > packed with some sort of insulating grease (zinc paste?) mustard yellow > stuff with the consistency of peanut butter. I ended up fixing the SLOW > flasher but they are both still slow just not as slow (comparing with my > Boss' identical YJ). Irritatingly slow but better than the 2 second > interval the right flasher was doing before I cleaned and replaced them. > > Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing > play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are > part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. > > Question 2: is this zinc paste stock or something that somebody packed > in there to reduce corrosion, but that may be adding resistance and thus > causing the slow flash? > |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
> Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing > play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are > part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. This is what an Ohm Meter is used for. Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
> Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing > play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are > part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. This is what an Ohm Meter is used for. Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
> Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing > play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are > part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. This is what an Ohm Meter is used for. Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
Flashers depend on the resistance for speed.
You have mis matched bulbs in there..... I might be mistaken, but that should give your flasher a major headache. Either it will flash too fast or too slow. I have never seen one designed for odd bulbs. I always see either all 1157's or 2157's. The 21xx is a brighter bulb I believe. That grease is a dielectric compound to help stop socket corrosion. It sort of helps with the ground, but only because it keeps it clean and rust free. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Simon Juncal wrote: > > Okay I replaced the tail lights (2057's) and front flashers (1057's) > (along with the front and rear marker bulbs (194's)... I hit all the > sockets with CRC and some rags. The front flashers sockets seem to be > packed with some sort of insulating grease (zinc paste?) mustard yellow > stuff with the consistency of peanut butter. I ended up fixing the SLOW > flasher but they are both still slow just not as slow (comparing with my > Boss' identical YJ). Irritatingly slow but better than the 2 second > interval the right flasher was doing before I cleaned and replaced them. > > Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing > play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are > part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. > > Question 2: is this zinc paste stock or something that somebody packed > in there to reduce corrosion, but that may be adding resistance and thus > causing the slow flash? |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
Flashers depend on the resistance for speed.
You have mis matched bulbs in there..... I might be mistaken, but that should give your flasher a major headache. Either it will flash too fast or too slow. I have never seen one designed for odd bulbs. I always see either all 1157's or 2157's. The 21xx is a brighter bulb I believe. That grease is a dielectric compound to help stop socket corrosion. It sort of helps with the ground, but only because it keeps it clean and rust free. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Simon Juncal wrote: > > Okay I replaced the tail lights (2057's) and front flashers (1057's) > (along with the front and rear marker bulbs (194's)... I hit all the > sockets with CRC and some rags. The front flashers sockets seem to be > packed with some sort of insulating grease (zinc paste?) mustard yellow > stuff with the consistency of peanut butter. I ended up fixing the SLOW > flasher but they are both still slow just not as slow (comparing with my > Boss' identical YJ). Irritatingly slow but better than the 2 second > interval the right flasher was doing before I cleaned and replaced them. > > Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing > play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are > part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. > > Question 2: is this zinc paste stock or something that somebody packed > in there to reduce corrosion, but that may be adding resistance and thus > causing the slow flash? |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
Flashers depend on the resistance for speed.
You have mis matched bulbs in there..... I might be mistaken, but that should give your flasher a major headache. Either it will flash too fast or too slow. I have never seen one designed for odd bulbs. I always see either all 1157's or 2157's. The 21xx is a brighter bulb I believe. That grease is a dielectric compound to help stop socket corrosion. It sort of helps with the ground, but only because it keeps it clean and rust free. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Simon Juncal wrote: > > Okay I replaced the tail lights (2057's) and front flashers (1057's) > (along with the front and rear marker bulbs (194's)... I hit all the > sockets with CRC and some rags. The front flashers sockets seem to be > packed with some sort of insulating grease (zinc paste?) mustard yellow > stuff with the consistency of peanut butter. I ended up fixing the SLOW > flasher but they are both still slow just not as slow (comparing with my > Boss' identical YJ). Irritatingly slow but better than the 2 second > interval the right flasher was doing before I cleaned and replaced them. > > Question: does the zinc coated metal plate inside the tail light housing > play a part in the grounding process? The mounting bolts (if they are > part of the ground) are rusty and could be the source of the slowness. > > Question 2: is this zinc paste stock or something that somebody packed > in there to reduce corrosion, but that may be adding resistance and thus > causing the slow flash? |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
Mike Romain wrote: > Flashers depend on the resistance for speed. > > You have mis matched bulbs in there..... That's what was specified in bulb manufacturers guide for my Jeep (Wurner I think) I'll try matching them, it's a cheap trouble shoot. |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
Mike Romain wrote: > Flashers depend on the resistance for speed. > > You have mis matched bulbs in there..... That's what was specified in bulb manufacturers guide for my Jeep (Wurner I think) I'll try matching them, it's a cheap trouble shoot. |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
Mike Romain wrote: > Flashers depend on the resistance for speed. > > You have mis matched bulbs in there..... That's what was specified in bulb manufacturers guide for my Jeep (Wurner I think) I'll try matching them, it's a cheap trouble shoot. |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
Just so long as they are the same as the other side, a gas station
attendant would have most likely replaced them with the more common 1157, which of course would have a different resistance. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Simon Junco wrote: > > That's what was specified in bulb manufacturers guide for my Jeep > (Wurner I think) I'll try matching them, it's a cheap trouble shoot. |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
Just so long as they are the same as the other side, a gas station
attendant would have most likely replaced them with the more common 1157, which of course would have a different resistance. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Simon Junco wrote: > > That's what was specified in bulb manufacturers guide for my Jeep > (Wurner I think) I'll try matching them, it's a cheap trouble shoot. |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
Just so long as they are the same as the other side, a gas station
attendant would have most likely replaced them with the more common 1157, which of course would have a different resistance. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Simon Junco wrote: > > That's what was specified in bulb manufacturers guide for my Jeep > (Wurner I think) I'll try matching them, it's a cheap trouble shoot. |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
> Flashers depend on the resistance for speed.
> > You have mis matched bulbs in there..... If both sides are balanced, they should flash at the same frequency. Testing the resistance of each individual circuit will pin down the problem -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
> Flashers depend on the resistance for speed.
> > You have mis matched bulbs in there..... If both sides are balanced, they should flash at the same frequency. Testing the resistance of each individual circuit will pin down the problem -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
Re: slow flasher problem part 2
> Flashers depend on the resistance for speed.
> > You have mis matched bulbs in there..... If both sides are balanced, they should flash at the same frequency. Testing the resistance of each individual circuit will pin down the problem -- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California |
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