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Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses,
clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and order one. Is there a better water pump then the original out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine. I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it went off right away. The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling out of the bottom, above the pump. The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold. What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new radiator cap. Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any) would sense that the engine is running at normal temp and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing anything above 160? I think this is considered a closed system because I have an expansion tank? It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install the new one. There are extra in and outs which are probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate from the main core. I will leave them open and they should be okay. -- <html><form><input type crash></form></html> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail |
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
60k. If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees. They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for you now, but who knows. At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off. "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net... > Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses, > clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the > water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the > hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses > and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they > don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core > and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump > from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps > are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and > order one. Is there a better water pump then the original > out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine. > > I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine > and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it > went off right away. > > The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working > okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling > out of the bottom, above the pump. > > The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with > the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water > but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold. > > What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant > system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off > the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The > expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new > radiator cap. > > Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use > a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any) > would sense that the engine is running at normal temp > and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing > anything above 160? > > I think this is considered a closed system because I have > an expansion tank? > > It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get > some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install > the new one. There are extra in and outs which are > probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate > from the main core. I will leave them open and they > should be okay. > > -- > <html><form><input type crash></form></html> > nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail |
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
60k. If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees. They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for you now, but who knows. At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off. "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net... > Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses, > clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the > water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the > hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses > and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they > don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core > and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump > from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps > are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and > order one. Is there a better water pump then the original > out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine. > > I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine > and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it > went off right away. > > The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working > okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling > out of the bottom, above the pump. > > The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with > the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water > but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold. > > What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant > system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off > the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The > expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new > radiator cap. > > Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use > a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any) > would sense that the engine is running at normal temp > and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing > anything above 160? > > I think this is considered a closed system because I have > an expansion tank? > > It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get > some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install > the new one. There are extra in and outs which are > probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate > from the main core. I will leave them open and they > should be okay. > > -- > <html><form><input type crash></form></html> > nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail |
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
60k. If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees. They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for you now, but who knows. At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off. "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net... > Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses, > clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the > water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the > hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses > and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they > don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core > and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump > from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps > are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and > order one. Is there a better water pump then the original > out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine. > > I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine > and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it > went off right away. > > The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working > okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling > out of the bottom, above the pump. > > The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with > the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water > but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold. > > What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant > system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off > the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The > expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new > radiator cap. > > Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use > a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any) > would sense that the engine is running at normal temp > and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing > anything above 160? > > I think this is considered a closed system because I have > an expansion tank? > > It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get > some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install > the new one. There are extra in and outs which are > probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate > from the main core. I will leave them open and they > should be okay. > > -- > <html><form><input type crash></form></html> > nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail |
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at
60k. If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees. They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for you now, but who knows. At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off. "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net... > Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses, > clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the > water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the > hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses > and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they > don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core > and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump > from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps > are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and > order one. Is there a better water pump then the original > out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine. > > I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine > and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it > went off right away. > > The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working > okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling > out of the bottom, above the pump. > > The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with > the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water > but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold. > > What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant > system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off > the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The > expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new > radiator cap. > > Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use > a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any) > would sense that the engine is running at normal temp > and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing > anything above 160? > > I think this is considered a closed system because I have > an expansion tank? > > It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get > some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install > the new one. There are extra in and outs which are > probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate > from the main core. I will leave them open and they > should be okay. > > -- > <html><form><input type crash></form></html> > nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail |
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
In article <c8eid901l0d@enews4.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: >Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at >60k. >If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with >factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA >to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get >the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated >thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees. >They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to >swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for >you now, but who knows. >At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd >also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off. First thing I will do is flush the system. I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything. I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps off. Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was being used. >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message >news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net... >> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses, >> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the >> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the >> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses >> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they >> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core >> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump >> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps >> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and >> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original >> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine. >> >> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine >> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it >> went off right away. >> >> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working >> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling >> out of the bottom, above the pump. >> >> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with >> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water >> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold. >> >> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant >> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off >> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The >> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new >> radiator cap. >> >> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use >> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any) >> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp >> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing >> anything above 160? >> >> I think this is considered a closed system because I have >> an expansion tank? >> >> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get >> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install >> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are >> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate >> from the main core. I will leave them open and they >> should be okay. >> >> -- >> <html><form><input type crash></form></html> >> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail > > -- <html><form><input type crash></form></html> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail |
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
In article <c8eid901l0d@enews4.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: >Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at >60k. >If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with >factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA >to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get >the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated >thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees. >They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to >swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for >you now, but who knows. >At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd >also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off. First thing I will do is flush the system. I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything. I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps off. Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was being used. >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message >news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net... >> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses, >> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the >> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the >> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses >> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they >> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core >> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump >> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps >> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and >> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original >> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine. >> >> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine >> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it >> went off right away. >> >> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working >> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling >> out of the bottom, above the pump. >> >> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with >> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water >> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold. >> >> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant >> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off >> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The >> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new >> radiator cap. >> >> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use >> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any) >> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp >> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing >> anything above 160? >> >> I think this is considered a closed system because I have >> an expansion tank? >> >> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get >> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install >> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are >> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate >> from the main core. I will leave them open and they >> should be okay. >> >> -- >> <html><form><input type crash></form></html> >> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail > > -- <html><form><input type crash></form></html> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail |
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
In article <c8eid901l0d@enews4.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: >Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at >60k. >If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with >factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA >to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get >the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated >thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees. >They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to >swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for >you now, but who knows. >At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd >also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off. First thing I will do is flush the system. I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything. I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps off. Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was being used. >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message >news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net... >> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses, >> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the >> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the >> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses >> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they >> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core >> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump >> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps >> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and >> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original >> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine. >> >> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine >> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it >> went off right away. >> >> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working >> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling >> out of the bottom, above the pump. >> >> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with >> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water >> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold. >> >> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant >> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off >> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The >> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new >> radiator cap. >> >> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use >> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any) >> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp >> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing >> anything above 160? >> >> I think this is considered a closed system because I have >> an expansion tank? >> >> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get >> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install >> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are >> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate >> from the main core. I will leave them open and they >> should be okay. >> >> -- >> <html><form><input type crash></form></html> >> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail > > -- <html><form><input type crash></form></html> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail |
Re: Replacing 94 YJ Cooling System 4.0L
In article <c8eid901l0d@enews4.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: >Good move, Chrysler's plastic tank radiators are crap. Mine went south at >60k. >If you plan on keeping this vvhicle a while I'd replaces all the hoses with >factory fresh or the equivalent. The factory clamps are superb, but a PITA >to remove without a proper tool. I used a big pair of channel locks to get >the main ones off, but it was still a curse-fest. Keep the stock rated >thermostat or the thing will never warm up in winter, should be 195 degrees. >They made a bunch of them in '94 with the wrong ones and the dealers used to >swap them out per a service bulletin for free. Doubt they will do that for >you now, but who knows. >At that mileage swapping out the water pump is probably a good idea, I'd >also replace the serpentine belt as long as you're taking it off. First thing I will do is flush the system. I am replacing the serpentine belt. When I am ready, I will blast it all down with PB blaster and let it sit before I loosen up anything. I'll cut off the old hoses and I also use channel-locks to take the clamps off. Too bad about the thermostat. :) I will check to see what kind was being used. >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message >news:40aac4dd_2@nntp2.nac.net... >> Just ordered a 3 core all metal copper rad, all new hoses, >> clamps, thermostat w/ gasket. I also want to replace the >> water pump and tube that goes to the heater core. All the >> hoses and clamps are OEM. I currently have original hoses >> and clamps w/ 193K miles so I'm happy with them since they >> don't cut the hose or put too much pressure on the core >> and water tubes. I was going to go with a new water pump >> from the dealer but I have heard that re-man water pumps >> are better than new. So I am going to my local NAPA and >> order one. Is there a better water pump then the original >> out there? I have the I6 w/o AC and a serpentine. >> >> I also checked my fan clutch by shutting off the engine >> and watching to see if the fan would still spin but it >> went off right away. >> >> The thermostat housing looks tired but it is still working >> okay with a little coolant color leaking and boiling >> out of the bottom, above the pump. >> >> The radiator is shot. It's the original aluminum with >> the plastic tanks. The fins are rotting off holds water >> but is leaking slowly when the seams get hot and cold. >> >> What else should I be looking for in replacing the coolant >> system. I tested the guage by shorting out the wire off >> the temp sensor and that pegged the temp meter. The >> expansion tank looks okay IMO. I will also buy a new >> radiator cap. >> >> Is the original thermostat okay to run or should I use >> a cooler one? What is the temp where the computer (if any) >> would sense that the engine is running at normal temp >> and using the proper mix and feedback. I am guessing >> anything above 160? >> >> I think this is considered a closed system because I have >> an expansion tank? >> >> It doesn't look like a hard job and I might have to get >> some new radiator hardware bolts and screws to install >> the new one. There are extra in and outs which are >> probably for AT or oil cooling but it should be seperate >> from the main core. I will leave them open and they >> should be okay. >> >> -- >> <html><form><input type crash></form></html> >> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail > > -- <html><form><input type crash></form></html> nospam@zero.com Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail |
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