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Re: replace bearing in front hub assy?
L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> On rice burners and K Cars that the hub came from, I break it loose > before I jack it up, much safer using a six foot cheater. > I found some neat wheels for you: > http://www.bumpstop.com/lowrider/94jeep.jpg ;-) Cool. Wonder if they can fit 32s to em. :) -- DougW |
Re: replace bearing in front hub assy?
L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> On rice burners and K Cars that the hub came from, I break it loose > before I jack it up, much safer using a six foot cheater. > I found some neat wheels for you: > http://www.bumpstop.com/lowrider/94jeep.jpg ;-) Cool. Wonder if they can fit 32s to em. :) -- DougW |
Re: replace bearing in front hub assy?
John Sevey wrote: > Football God <footballgod@heaven.com> wrote: > >>My 99 XY needed both hubs and u-joints when I bought it from an auction >>(41K miles). My local Jeep Stealership charged me $900 to do both sides. >>So next time I do it myself! How big is the job? I have tools and >>experience with rotors, calipers, and CV joints on other vehicles, but >>no experience on Jeeps. Please post how the job went! Thanks.... > > > In my opinion, this isn't too big of a job. Your experience with rotors and > calipers will come in handy since they will have to come off in order to get > the axle shafts out. The biggest problem that I had on my '98 Cherokee was > getting the hub assembly itself out from the steering knuckle. > > I suggest lots of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. That, and once you've loosened > the bearing assembly's retaining bolts from the backside of the knuckle, tap > on the retaining bolts in order to persuade the bearing assembly from the > knuckle. Use a socket that you don't really care about while pounding... :) > i'm not sure about the clearances involved since i haven't popped the bearings on my 93 yj yet, but chrysler solid front axles use the same bolt-on bearing assembly. hopefully it's close to the same idea here: doing the left bearing, unbolt 4 bolts, and turn the wheel to the right all the way. rotate the axle until the stub axle yoke is flat. wedge an impact socket between the stub axle yoke and the axle housing. turn the engine on and then turn the steering wheel to the left until the axle pushes the bearing out of the hub. opposite for right side. -- Ben Jerew ASE Master Technician New Country Lexus of Latham, NY Amateur Off-Roader |
Re: replace bearing in front hub assy?
John Sevey wrote: > Football God <footballgod@heaven.com> wrote: > >>My 99 XY needed both hubs and u-joints when I bought it from an auction >>(41K miles). My local Jeep Stealership charged me $900 to do both sides. >>So next time I do it myself! How big is the job? I have tools and >>experience with rotors, calipers, and CV joints on other vehicles, but >>no experience on Jeeps. Please post how the job went! Thanks.... > > > In my opinion, this isn't too big of a job. Your experience with rotors and > calipers will come in handy since they will have to come off in order to get > the axle shafts out. The biggest problem that I had on my '98 Cherokee was > getting the hub assembly itself out from the steering knuckle. > > I suggest lots of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. That, and once you've loosened > the bearing assembly's retaining bolts from the backside of the knuckle, tap > on the retaining bolts in order to persuade the bearing assembly from the > knuckle. Use a socket that you don't really care about while pounding... :) > i'm not sure about the clearances involved since i haven't popped the bearings on my 93 yj yet, but chrysler solid front axles use the same bolt-on bearing assembly. hopefully it's close to the same idea here: doing the left bearing, unbolt 4 bolts, and turn the wheel to the right all the way. rotate the axle until the stub axle yoke is flat. wedge an impact socket between the stub axle yoke and the axle housing. turn the engine on and then turn the steering wheel to the left until the axle pushes the bearing out of the hub. opposite for right side. -- Ben Jerew ASE Master Technician New Country Lexus of Latham, NY Amateur Off-Roader |
Re: replace bearing in front hub assy?
John Sevey wrote: > Football God <footballgod@heaven.com> wrote: > >>My 99 XY needed both hubs and u-joints when I bought it from an auction >>(41K miles). My local Jeep Stealership charged me $900 to do both sides. >>So next time I do it myself! How big is the job? I have tools and >>experience with rotors, calipers, and CV joints on other vehicles, but >>no experience on Jeeps. Please post how the job went! Thanks.... > > > In my opinion, this isn't too big of a job. Your experience with rotors and > calipers will come in handy since they will have to come off in order to get > the axle shafts out. The biggest problem that I had on my '98 Cherokee was > getting the hub assembly itself out from the steering knuckle. > > I suggest lots of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. That, and once you've loosened > the bearing assembly's retaining bolts from the backside of the knuckle, tap > on the retaining bolts in order to persuade the bearing assembly from the > knuckle. Use a socket that you don't really care about while pounding... :) > i'm not sure about the clearances involved since i haven't popped the bearings on my 93 yj yet, but chrysler solid front axles use the same bolt-on bearing assembly. hopefully it's close to the same idea here: doing the left bearing, unbolt 4 bolts, and turn the wheel to the right all the way. rotate the axle until the stub axle yoke is flat. wedge an impact socket between the stub axle yoke and the axle housing. turn the engine on and then turn the steering wheel to the left until the axle pushes the bearing out of the hub. opposite for right side. -- Ben Jerew ASE Master Technician New Country Lexus of Latham, NY Amateur Off-Roader |
Re: replace bearing in front hub assy?
"Football God" <footballgod@heaven.com> wrote in message news:3F85A0A2.FDEEA721@heaven.com... > My 99 XY needed both hubs and u-joints when I bought it from an auction > (41K miles). My local Jeep Stealership charged me $900 to do both sides. > So next time I do it myself! How big is the job? I have tools and > experience with rotors, calipers, and CV joints on other vehicles, but > no experience on Jeeps. Please post how the job went! Thanks.... Mine was suprisingly easy... the manual's not that much help. You'll need a great honking 36mm socket... Autozone has one that you can buy, then return for the same money, sweet! Basically, pick up both fronts (easier to move the hub back and forth) and put 'er on jack stands (break the lugnuts loose first!). Take off that side's tire. Either have someone hold the brakes (thanks Doug) or, as I did, put a crowbar inside the axle yoke to prevent spinning. Remove the cotter key and retainer (notice the cute springy washer, save that too) and loosen the giant nut (lefty loosey, both sides). With a 13mm 12pt socket, take off the caliper bolts. *Before* you pull off the caliper, bend it from side-to-side to bleed back the piston... makes re-installation much easier. Lay the caliper on the frame (*don't* hang the caliper by the tube). Work off the rotor, set aside. Find the three bolts that hold the hub assy on (12-point heads), find the outboard ends, and soak with a liberal dose of Knock-er Loose... you can also wire brush the ends of the bolts, to get more rust off (mine weren't that bad, after only three years). Take a break. After the break, pull the hub bolts out (work the steering knuckle back and forth to get access, now you're glad you lifted both sides, unlock the steering!). *Now* you have to get the hub out... the only thing that's holding it in is rust. I used a big heavy bar... don't pry on anything, just hold the bar, one hand on each end, and yank-hit the flange of the hub toward you. Alternate top-bottom, or you can try Ben's genius way: >doing the left bearing, unbolt 4 bolts, and turn the wheel to the right >all the way. rotate the axle until the stub axle yoke is flat. wedge an >impact socket between the stub axle yoke and the axle housing. turn the >engine on and then turn the steering wheel to the left until the axle >pushes the bearing out of the hub. opposite for right side. Since I've found that the assembly is trash, anyway, you can beat the hell out of it with a hammer if you want. When it frees, you can either take the hub and axle out together, or leave the axle in (this is a good time to do the U-joint, more big hammer work). Since I'd already done the joint, I just took off the big nut and pushed the axle in as I pulled the hub free. Notice how pretty the new assembly is! Expensive, too... Sand the inside of the knuckle where the new hub goes... grease it (and the splines of the axle) too. Put the disk shield on (not backwards!), then put the hub assy on. I put never-seize on the bolts for the hub after cleaning them up on the bench grinder's brush (everyone should have one!). Bolts are torqued to 75ft/lb. Then big nut, torqued to 175. The rest is just the reverse of removal. __ Steve .. |
Re: replace bearing in front hub assy?
"Football God" <footballgod@heaven.com> wrote in message news:3F85A0A2.FDEEA721@heaven.com... > My 99 XY needed both hubs and u-joints when I bought it from an auction > (41K miles). My local Jeep Stealership charged me $900 to do both sides. > So next time I do it myself! How big is the job? I have tools and > experience with rotors, calipers, and CV joints on other vehicles, but > no experience on Jeeps. Please post how the job went! Thanks.... Mine was suprisingly easy... the manual's not that much help. You'll need a great honking 36mm socket... Autozone has one that you can buy, then return for the same money, sweet! Basically, pick up both fronts (easier to move the hub back and forth) and put 'er on jack stands (break the lugnuts loose first!). Take off that side's tire. Either have someone hold the brakes (thanks Doug) or, as I did, put a crowbar inside the axle yoke to prevent spinning. Remove the cotter key and retainer (notice the cute springy washer, save that too) and loosen the giant nut (lefty loosey, both sides). With a 13mm 12pt socket, take off the caliper bolts. *Before* you pull off the caliper, bend it from side-to-side to bleed back the piston... makes re-installation much easier. Lay the caliper on the frame (*don't* hang the caliper by the tube). Work off the rotor, set aside. Find the three bolts that hold the hub assy on (12-point heads), find the outboard ends, and soak with a liberal dose of Knock-er Loose... you can also wire brush the ends of the bolts, to get more rust off (mine weren't that bad, after only three years). Take a break. After the break, pull the hub bolts out (work the steering knuckle back and forth to get access, now you're glad you lifted both sides, unlock the steering!). *Now* you have to get the hub out... the only thing that's holding it in is rust. I used a big heavy bar... don't pry on anything, just hold the bar, one hand on each end, and yank-hit the flange of the hub toward you. Alternate top-bottom, or you can try Ben's genius way: >doing the left bearing, unbolt 4 bolts, and turn the wheel to the right >all the way. rotate the axle until the stub axle yoke is flat. wedge an >impact socket between the stub axle yoke and the axle housing. turn the >engine on and then turn the steering wheel to the left until the axle >pushes the bearing out of the hub. opposite for right side. Since I've found that the assembly is trash, anyway, you can beat the hell out of it with a hammer if you want. When it frees, you can either take the hub and axle out together, or leave the axle in (this is a good time to do the U-joint, more big hammer work). Since I'd already done the joint, I just took off the big nut and pushed the axle in as I pulled the hub free. Notice how pretty the new assembly is! Expensive, too... Sand the inside of the knuckle where the new hub goes... grease it (and the splines of the axle) too. Put the disk shield on (not backwards!), then put the hub assy on. I put never-seize on the bolts for the hub after cleaning them up on the bench grinder's brush (everyone should have one!). Bolts are torqued to 75ft/lb. Then big nut, torqued to 175. The rest is just the reverse of removal. __ Steve .. |
Re: replace bearing in front hub assy?
"Football God" <footballgod@heaven.com> wrote in message news:3F85A0A2.FDEEA721@heaven.com... > My 99 XY needed both hubs and u-joints when I bought it from an auction > (41K miles). My local Jeep Stealership charged me $900 to do both sides. > So next time I do it myself! How big is the job? I have tools and > experience with rotors, calipers, and CV joints on other vehicles, but > no experience on Jeeps. Please post how the job went! Thanks.... Mine was suprisingly easy... the manual's not that much help. You'll need a great honking 36mm socket... Autozone has one that you can buy, then return for the same money, sweet! Basically, pick up both fronts (easier to move the hub back and forth) and put 'er on jack stands (break the lugnuts loose first!). Take off that side's tire. Either have someone hold the brakes (thanks Doug) or, as I did, put a crowbar inside the axle yoke to prevent spinning. Remove the cotter key and retainer (notice the cute springy washer, save that too) and loosen the giant nut (lefty loosey, both sides). With a 13mm 12pt socket, take off the caliper bolts. *Before* you pull off the caliper, bend it from side-to-side to bleed back the piston... makes re-installation much easier. Lay the caliper on the frame (*don't* hang the caliper by the tube). Work off the rotor, set aside. Find the three bolts that hold the hub assy on (12-point heads), find the outboard ends, and soak with a liberal dose of Knock-er Loose... you can also wire brush the ends of the bolts, to get more rust off (mine weren't that bad, after only three years). Take a break. After the break, pull the hub bolts out (work the steering knuckle back and forth to get access, now you're glad you lifted both sides, unlock the steering!). *Now* you have to get the hub out... the only thing that's holding it in is rust. I used a big heavy bar... don't pry on anything, just hold the bar, one hand on each end, and yank-hit the flange of the hub toward you. Alternate top-bottom, or you can try Ben's genius way: >doing the left bearing, unbolt 4 bolts, and turn the wheel to the right >all the way. rotate the axle until the stub axle yoke is flat. wedge an >impact socket between the stub axle yoke and the axle housing. turn the >engine on and then turn the steering wheel to the left until the axle >pushes the bearing out of the hub. opposite for right side. Since I've found that the assembly is trash, anyway, you can beat the hell out of it with a hammer if you want. When it frees, you can either take the hub and axle out together, or leave the axle in (this is a good time to do the U-joint, more big hammer work). Since I'd already done the joint, I just took off the big nut and pushed the axle in as I pulled the hub free. Notice how pretty the new assembly is! Expensive, too... Sand the inside of the knuckle where the new hub goes... grease it (and the splines of the axle) too. Put the disk shield on (not backwards!), then put the hub assy on. I put never-seize on the bolts for the hub after cleaning them up on the bench grinder's brush (everyone should have one!). Bolts are torqued to 75ft/lb. Then big nut, torqued to 175. The rest is just the reverse of removal. __ Steve .. |
Does hub assembly have both bearings?
Looking at the pics on the web site Bill sent, I can't tell if the hub
assembly has both inner and outer bearings. This pics seem to show inner bearing still part of the jeep even after the hub is pulled off. Will replacing the hub replace both bearings? Thanks! Stephen Cowell wrote: > I replaced the left front hub assembly on my '00 XJ; > now the right one is going (silly dealer steam cleaned > them too hard, all I can figger). I've got the core from > the left... should be same part. I'd like to save some > money... does anyone know if I can get a new bearing > pressed into the old one, or am I stuck buying the > assembly ($180)? It's got Command Trac, btw. > __ > Steve > . |
Does hub assembly have both bearings?
Looking at the pics on the web site Bill sent, I can't tell if the hub
assembly has both inner and outer bearings. This pics seem to show inner bearing still part of the jeep even after the hub is pulled off. Will replacing the hub replace both bearings? Thanks! Stephen Cowell wrote: > I replaced the left front hub assembly on my '00 XJ; > now the right one is going (silly dealer steam cleaned > them too hard, all I can figger). I've got the core from > the left... should be same part. I'd like to save some > money... does anyone know if I can get a new bearing > pressed into the old one, or am I stuck buying the > assembly ($180)? It's got Command Trac, btw. > __ > Steve > . |
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