Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

Unless you have a hardtop, I wouldn't bother fixing the locks. A
friend had his windows sliced open for a gym bag of sweaty clothes.
It's not worth it.

CTM

On Jun 7, 8:51 pm, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
> I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
> have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
> pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
> (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
> key.
>
> I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
> separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jack

Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

On Jun 8, 5:20 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Jun 2007, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
> > have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
> > pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
> > (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
> > key.
>
> > I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
> > separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>
> This might help you:
>
> http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_...k-picking4.htm
>
> IANALockSmith. From the articles rekeying seems to be done by swapping
> the pins around, not by filing.
>
> Perhaps you can find a working set of locks with keys at the local
> junkyard?
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

That's right, you're supposed to swap pins around to get the right
heights in the right locations....the down and dirty file job means
that the pins no longer extend to a good "locking" height. Nothing I
haven't done in a pinch, sometimes it means you can turn the lock with
a strong twist of a screwdriver. I can't find a 1990-specific
schematic, but previous experience has been to undo the retaining nut
on the backside and use a mechanic's/dental pick to actuate the pins
individually while applying outward pressure. Time consuming...so
there's another question:

Assuming the doors are indeed 1990 vintage, what changed between 1990
and 1991?

I know Jeep swapped vendors a few times over the years, but I don't
see why most major vendors don't show cylinder kits for 1990-down.

Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

On Jun 8, 5:20 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Jun 2007, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
> > have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
> > pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
> > (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
> > key.
>
> > I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
> > separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>
> This might help you:
>
> http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_...k-picking4.htm
>
> IANALockSmith. From the articles rekeying seems to be done by swapping
> the pins around, not by filing.
>
> Perhaps you can find a working set of locks with keys at the local
> junkyard?
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

That's right, you're supposed to swap pins around to get the right
heights in the right locations....the down and dirty file job means
that the pins no longer extend to a good "locking" height. Nothing I
haven't done in a pinch, sometimes it means you can turn the lock with
a strong twist of a screwdriver. I can't find a 1990-specific
schematic, but previous experience has been to undo the retaining nut
on the backside and use a mechanic's/dental pick to actuate the pins
individually while applying outward pressure. Time consuming...so
there's another question:

Assuming the doors are indeed 1990 vintage, what changed between 1990
and 1991?

I know Jeep swapped vendors a few times over the years, but I don't
see why most major vendors don't show cylinder kits for 1990-down.

Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

On Jun 8, 5:20 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Jun 2007, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
> > have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
> > pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
> > (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
> > key.
>
> > I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
> > separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>
> This might help you:
>
> http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_...k-picking4.htm
>
> IANALockSmith. From the articles rekeying seems to be done by swapping
> the pins around, not by filing.
>
> Perhaps you can find a working set of locks with keys at the local
> junkyard?
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

That's right, you're supposed to swap pins around to get the right
heights in the right locations....the down and dirty file job means
that the pins no longer extend to a good "locking" height. Nothing I
haven't done in a pinch, sometimes it means you can turn the lock with
a strong twist of a screwdriver. I can't find a 1990-specific
schematic, but previous experience has been to undo the retaining nut
on the backside and use a mechanic's/dental pick to actuate the pins
individually while applying outward pressure. Time consuming...so
there's another question:

Assuming the doors are indeed 1990 vintage, what changed between 1990
and 1991?

I know Jeep swapped vendors a few times over the years, but I don't
see why most major vendors don't show cylinder kits for 1990-down.

Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

On Jun 8, 5:20 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Jun 2007, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
> > have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
> > pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
> > (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
> > key.
>
> > I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
> > separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>
> This might help you:
>
> http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_...k-picking4.htm
>
> IANALockSmith. From the articles rekeying seems to be done by swapping
> the pins around, not by filing.
>
> Perhaps you can find a working set of locks with keys at the local
> junkyard?
>
> --
> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.

That's right, you're supposed to swap pins around to get the right
heights in the right locations....the down and dirty file job means
that the pins no longer extend to a good "locking" height. Nothing I
haven't done in a pinch, sometimes it means you can turn the lock with
a strong twist of a screwdriver. I can't find a 1990-specific
schematic, but previous experience has been to undo the retaining nut
on the backside and use a mechanic's/dental pick to actuate the pins
individually while applying outward pressure. Time consuming...so
there's another question:

Assuming the doors are indeed 1990 vintage, what changed between 1990
and 1991?

I know Jeep swapped vendors a few times over the years, but I don't
see why most major vendors don't show cylinder kits for 1990-down.

Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

On Jun 8, 8:31 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jun 8, 5:20 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Thu, 7 Jun 2007, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > > I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
> > > have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
> > > pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
> > > (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
> > > key.
>
> > > I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
> > > separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>
> > This might help you:
>
> >http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_...//www.howstuff...
>
> > IANALockSmith. From the articles rekeying seems to be done by swapping
> > the pins around, not by filing.
>
> > Perhaps you can find a working set of locks with keys at the local
> > junkyard?
>
> > --
> > "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> > that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> > Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>
> That's right, you're supposed to swap pins around to get the right
> heights in the right locations....the down and dirty file job means
> that the pins no longer extend to a good "locking" height. Nothing I
> haven't done in a pinch, sometimes it means you can turn the lock with
> a strong twist of a screwdriver. I can't find a 1990-specific
> schematic, but previous experience has been to undo the retaining nut
> on the backside and use a mechanic's/dental pick to actuate the pins
> individually while applying outward pressure. Time consuming...so
> there's another question:
>
> Assuming the doors are indeed 1990 vintage, what changed between 1990
> and 1991?
>
> I know Jeep swapped vendors a few times over the years, but I don't
> see why most major vendors don't show cylinder kits for 1990-down.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Oops, my point was that you'll end up filing if you don't have the
right size pins in your locks either way. The other point was that
91+ lock kits go for a whole 20 clams...

Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

On Jun 8, 8:31 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jun 8, 5:20 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Thu, 7 Jun 2007, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > > I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
> > > have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
> > > pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
> > > (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
> > > key.
>
> > > I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
> > > separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>
> > This might help you:
>
> >http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_...//www.howstuff...
>
> > IANALockSmith. From the articles rekeying seems to be done by swapping
> > the pins around, not by filing.
>
> > Perhaps you can find a working set of locks with keys at the local
> > junkyard?
>
> > --
> > "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> > that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> > Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>
> That's right, you're supposed to swap pins around to get the right
> heights in the right locations....the down and dirty file job means
> that the pins no longer extend to a good "locking" height. Nothing I
> haven't done in a pinch, sometimes it means you can turn the lock with
> a strong twist of a screwdriver. I can't find a 1990-specific
> schematic, but previous experience has been to undo the retaining nut
> on the backside and use a mechanic's/dental pick to actuate the pins
> individually while applying outward pressure. Time consuming...so
> there's another question:
>
> Assuming the doors are indeed 1990 vintage, what changed between 1990
> and 1991?
>
> I know Jeep swapped vendors a few times over the years, but I don't
> see why most major vendors don't show cylinder kits for 1990-down.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Oops, my point was that you'll end up filing if you don't have the
right size pins in your locks either way. The other point was that
91+ lock kits go for a whole 20 clams...

Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

On Jun 8, 8:31 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jun 8, 5:20 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Thu, 7 Jun 2007, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > > I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
> > > have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
> > > pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
> > > (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
> > > key.
>
> > > I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
> > > separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>
> > This might help you:
>
> >http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_...//www.howstuff...
>
> > IANALockSmith. From the articles rekeying seems to be done by swapping
> > the pins around, not by filing.
>
> > Perhaps you can find a working set of locks with keys at the local
> > junkyard?
>
> > --
> > "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> > that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> > Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>
> That's right, you're supposed to swap pins around to get the right
> heights in the right locations....the down and dirty file job means
> that the pins no longer extend to a good "locking" height. Nothing I
> haven't done in a pinch, sometimes it means you can turn the lock with
> a strong twist of a screwdriver. I can't find a 1990-specific
> schematic, but previous experience has been to undo the retaining nut
> on the backside and use a mechanic's/dental pick to actuate the pins
> individually while applying outward pressure. Time consuming...so
> there's another question:
>
> Assuming the doors are indeed 1990 vintage, what changed between 1990
> and 1991?
>
> I know Jeep swapped vendors a few times over the years, but I don't
> see why most major vendors don't show cylinder kits for 1990-down.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Oops, my point was that you'll end up filing if you don't have the
right size pins in your locks either way. The other point was that
91+ lock kits go for a whole 20 clams...

Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

On Jun 8, 8:31 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jun 8, 5:20 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Thu, 7 Jun 2007, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > > I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
> > > have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
> > > pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
> > > (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
> > > key.
>
> > > I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
> > > separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>
> > This might help you:
>
> >http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_...//www.howstuff...
>
> > IANALockSmith. From the articles rekeying seems to be done by swapping
> > the pins around, not by filing.
>
> > Perhaps you can find a working set of locks with keys at the local
> > junkyard?
>
> > --
> > "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
> > that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> > Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>
> That's right, you're supposed to swap pins around to get the right
> heights in the right locations....the down and dirty file job means
> that the pins no longer extend to a good "locking" height. Nothing I
> haven't done in a pinch, sometimes it means you can turn the lock with
> a strong twist of a screwdriver. I can't find a 1990-specific
> schematic, but previous experience has been to undo the retaining nut
> on the backside and use a mechanic's/dental pick to actuate the pins
> individually while applying outward pressure. Time consuming...so
> there's another question:
>
> Assuming the doors are indeed 1990 vintage, what changed between 1990
> and 1991?
>
> I know Jeep swapped vendors a few times over the years, but I don't
> see why most major vendors don't show cylinder kits for 1990-down.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Oops, my point was that you'll end up filing if you don't have the
right size pins in your locks either way. The other point was that
91+ lock kits go for a whole 20 clams...

Re: Removing Door Lock Tumblers
 

Jon wrote:
> On Jun 8, 8:31 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Jun 8, 5:20 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Thu, 7 Jun 2007, jackv...@hotmail.com wrote:
>>>> I just bought a 1990 Wrangler without a working door key. I don't
>>>> have the key codes so I need to have the locks re-keyed which is
>>>> pretty pricey. I've heard I may be able to take out the tumblers
>>>> (plugs) and file down the tumbler pins enough to have a working lock/
>>>> key.
>>>> I have the cylinders out, but can't figure out how to get the tumbler
>>>> separated from the core? Anybody done this?
>>> This might help you:
>>> http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/mult_...//www.howstuff...
>>> IANALockSmith. From the articles rekeying seems to be done by swapping
>>> the pins around, not by filing.
>>> Perhaps you can find a working set of locks with keys at the local
>>> junkyard?
>>> --
>>> "We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
>>> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
>>> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
>> That's right, you're supposed to swap pins around to get the right
>> heights in the right locations....the down and dirty file job means
>> that the pins no longer extend to a good "locking" height. Nothing I
>> haven't done in a pinch, sometimes it means you can turn the lock with
>> a strong twist of a screwdriver. I can't find a 1990-specific
>> schematic, but previous experience has been to undo the retaining nut
>> on the backside and use a mechanic's/dental pick to actuate the pins
>> individually while applying outward pressure. Time consuming...so
>> there's another question:
>>
>> Assuming the doors are indeed 1990 vintage, what changed between 1990
>> and 1991?
>>
>> I know Jeep swapped vendors a few times over the years, but I don't
>> see why most major vendors don't show cylinder kits for 1990-down.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>
> Oops, my point was that you'll end up filing if you don't have the
> right size pins in your locks either way. The other point was that
> 91+ lock kits go for a whole 20 clams...
>

There are two different kinds of handles and locks on CJ/YJ doors I
don't know what the cut off date is for them.

Some have a thumb button latch with a belt loop remover post on the door
frame in a bracket and others have paddle handles that latch on the door
frame itself.

I have a set of both but don't know what years they come from.

I have changed 'keys' by just swapping one 'pin' around so I had to file
one new step in the key. I don't normally have to file the 'pins'.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)