Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
thread?

Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.

Thanks in advance.

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> needing a thread chaser.
> I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> thing in an O too thin frame.
> It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.

nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.

> "nrs" wrote...
>>
>> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
>> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
>> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
>> thread?
>>
>> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
>> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
>> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> needing a thread chaser.
> I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> thing in an O too thin frame.
> It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.

nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.

> "nrs" wrote...
>>
>> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
>> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
>> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
>> thread?
>>
>> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
>> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
>> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> needing a thread chaser.
> I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> thing in an O too thin frame.
> It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.

nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.

> "nrs" wrote...
>>
>> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
>> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
>> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
>> thread?
>>
>> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
>> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
>> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
needing a thread chaser.
I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that would
heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a little
penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking thing in an O
too thin frame.
It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and fish it
through some existing hole it the frame.
And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down to
replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1174076247.843224.113880@e1g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> thread?
>
> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
needing a thread chaser.
I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that would
heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a little
penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking thing in an O
too thin frame.
It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and fish it
through some existing hole it the frame.
And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down to
replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1174076247.843224.113880@e1g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> thread?
>
> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
needing a thread chaser.
I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that would
heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a little
penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking thing in an O
too thin frame.
It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and fish it
through some existing hole it the frame.
And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down to
replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1174076247.843224.113880@e1g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> thread?
>
> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

If this is the threaded hole for the bumper that I am thinking about, the
one that you are supposed to mount tow hooks on, then maybe, just maybe you
can access the inside after you get the bumper off.

It doesn't have anything like a real nut, just some threads chased into the
frame rail. I really, really doubt that it would hold a 5/8 coarse thread.

Earle

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:y0HKh.14674$mJ1.12263@newsfe22.lga...
> L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> > needing a thread chaser.
> > I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> > would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> > little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> > thing in an O too thin frame.
> > It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> > fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> > And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> > to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> > "nrs" wrote...
> >>
> >> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> >> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> >> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> >> thread?
> >>
> >> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> >> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> >> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

If this is the threaded hole for the bumper that I am thinking about, the
one that you are supposed to mount tow hooks on, then maybe, just maybe you
can access the inside after you get the bumper off.

It doesn't have anything like a real nut, just some threads chased into the
frame rail. I really, really doubt that it would hold a 5/8 coarse thread.

Earle

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:y0HKh.14674$mJ1.12263@newsfe22.lga...
> L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> > needing a thread chaser.
> > I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> > would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> > little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> > thing in an O too thin frame.
> > It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> > fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> > And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> > to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> > "nrs" wrote...
> >>
> >> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> >> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> >> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> >> thread?
> >>
> >> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> >> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> >> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

If this is the threaded hole for the bumper that I am thinking about, the
one that you are supposed to mount tow hooks on, then maybe, just maybe you
can access the inside after you get the bumper off.

It doesn't have anything like a real nut, just some threads chased into the
frame rail. I really, really doubt that it would hold a 5/8 coarse thread.

Earle

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:y0HKh.14674$mJ1.12263@newsfe22.lga...
> L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> > needing a thread chaser.
> > I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> > would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> > little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> > thing in an O too thin frame.
> > It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> > fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> > And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> > to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> > "nrs" wrote...
> >>
> >> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> >> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> >> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> >> thread?
> >>
> >> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> >> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> >> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

Thanks you Sir. http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

Thanks you Sir. http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

Thanks you Sir. http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

On Mar 16, 9:50 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
wrote:
> Thanks you Sir.http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
>
>
> > nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Thanks for the ideas. Sounds like those nutserts are not too strong
then. There is no bolt stuck in the hole, it is just that the threads
are damaged by rust and by the previous owner who put on a bumper
using metric bolts. I'm doing this to install a tow point so I'll
drill through and insert a 6" bolt from bottom to top in the bumper
attachement holes. I'll use the stock hole farther back on the frame
and for extra strength drill through the frame where the round
crossmember is and put in another bolt with a nut inside the round
crossmember. That should be strong enough.

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

On Mar 16, 9:50 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
wrote:
> Thanks you Sir.http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
>
>
> > nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Thanks for the ideas. Sounds like those nutserts are not too strong
then. There is no bolt stuck in the hole, it is just that the threads
are damaged by rust and by the previous owner who put on a bumper
using metric bolts. I'm doing this to install a tow point so I'll
drill through and insert a 6" bolt from bottom to top in the bumper
attachement holes. I'll use the stock hole farther back on the frame
and for extra strength drill through the frame where the round
crossmember is and put in another bolt with a nut inside the round
crossmember. That should be strong enough.

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

On Mar 16, 9:50 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
wrote:
> Thanks you Sir.http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
>
>
> > nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Thanks for the ideas. Sounds like those nutserts are not too strong
then. There is no bolt stuck in the hole, it is just that the threads
are damaged by rust and by the previous owner who put on a bumper
using metric bolts. I'm doing this to install a tow point so I'll
drill through and insert a 6" bolt from bottom to top in the bumper
attachement holes. I'll use the stock hole farther back on the frame
and for extra strength drill through the frame where the round
crossmember is and put in another bolt with a nut inside the round
crossmember. That should be strong enough.

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

nrs wrote:
> On Mar 16, 9:50 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
> wrote:
>> Thanks you Sir.http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
>> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>> --
>> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> Thanks for the ideas. Sounds like those nutserts are not too strong
> then. There is no bolt stuck in the hole, it is just that the threads
> are damaged by rust and by the previous owner who put on a bumper
> using metric bolts. I'm doing this to install a tow point so I'll
> drill through and insert a 6" bolt from bottom to top in the bumper
> attachement holes. I'll use the stock hole farther back on the frame
> and for extra strength drill through the frame where the round
> crossmember is and put in another bolt with a nut inside the round
> crossmember. That should be strong enough.
>


The long bolt through the frame isn't a good idea unless it has a crush
sleeve inside the frame. It won't stay stable or tight.

It is easy enough to put one in.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

nrs wrote:
> On Mar 16, 9:50 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
> wrote:
>> Thanks you Sir.http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
>> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>> --
>> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> Thanks for the ideas. Sounds like those nutserts are not too strong
> then. There is no bolt stuck in the hole, it is just that the threads
> are damaged by rust and by the previous owner who put on a bumper
> using metric bolts. I'm doing this to install a tow point so I'll
> drill through and insert a 6" bolt from bottom to top in the bumper
> attachement holes. I'll use the stock hole farther back on the frame
> and for extra strength drill through the frame where the round
> crossmember is and put in another bolt with a nut inside the round
> crossmember. That should be strong enough.
>


The long bolt through the frame isn't a good idea unless it has a crush
sleeve inside the frame. It won't stay stable or tight.

It is easy enough to put one in.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

nrs wrote:
> On Mar 16, 9:50 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
> wrote:
>> Thanks you Sir.http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
>> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
>> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>> --
>> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> Thanks for the ideas. Sounds like those nutserts are not too strong
> then. There is no bolt stuck in the hole, it is just that the threads
> are damaged by rust and by the previous owner who put on a bumper
> using metric bolts. I'm doing this to install a tow point so I'll
> drill through and insert a 6" bolt from bottom to top in the bumper
> attachement holes. I'll use the stock hole farther back on the frame
> and for extra strength drill through the frame where the round
> crossmember is and put in another bolt with a nut inside the round
> crossmember. That should be strong enough.
>


The long bolt through the frame isn't a good idea unless it has a crush
sleeve inside the frame. It won't stay stable or tight.

It is easy enough to put one in.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

On Mar 20, 11:13 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> nrs wrote:
> > On Mar 16, 9:50 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
> > wrote:
> >> Thanks you Sir.http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
> >> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> >> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> >>> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
> >> --
> >> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> > Thanks for the ideas. Sounds like those nutserts are not too strong
> > then. There is no bolt stuck in the hole, it is just that the threads
> > are damaged by rust and by the previous owner who put on a bumper
> > using metric bolts. I'm doing this to install a tow point so I'll
> > drill through and insert a 6" bolt from bottom to top in the bumper
> > attachement holes. I'll use the stock hole farther back on the frame
> > and for extra strength drill through the frame where the round
> > crossmember is and put in another bolt with a nut inside the round
> > crossmember. That should be strong enough.
>
> The long bolt through the frame isn't a good idea unless it has a crush
> sleeve inside the frame. It won't stay stable or tight.
>
> It is easy enough to put one in.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks Mike. Actually, I was planning on using a crush sleeve thanks
to your post regarding feedback on a bumper design in another thread.
Already bought the pipe!

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

On Mar 20, 11:13 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> nrs wrote:
> > On Mar 16, 9:50 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
> > wrote:
> >> Thanks you Sir.http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
> >> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> >> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> >>> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
> >> --
> >> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> > Thanks for the ideas. Sounds like those nutserts are not too strong
> > then. There is no bolt stuck in the hole, it is just that the threads
> > are damaged by rust and by the previous owner who put on a bumper
> > using metric bolts. I'm doing this to install a tow point so I'll
> > drill through and insert a 6" bolt from bottom to top in the bumper
> > attachement holes. I'll use the stock hole farther back on the frame
> > and for extra strength drill through the frame where the round
> > crossmember is and put in another bolt with a nut inside the round
> > crossmember. That should be strong enough.
>
> The long bolt through the frame isn't a good idea unless it has a crush
> sleeve inside the frame. It won't stay stable or tight.
>
> It is easy enough to put one in.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks Mike. Actually, I was planning on using a crush sleeve thanks
to your post regarding feedback on a bumper design in another thread.
Already bought the pipe!

Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
 

On Mar 20, 11:13 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> nrs wrote:
> > On Mar 16, 9:50 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
> > wrote:
> >> Thanks you Sir.http://www.kawanlama.com/images/products/av0000052.jpg
> >> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> >> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> >>> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
> >> --
> >> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> > Thanks for the ideas. Sounds like those nutserts are not too strong
> > then. There is no bolt stuck in the hole, it is just that the threads
> > are damaged by rust and by the previous owner who put on a bumper
> > using metric bolts. I'm doing this to install a tow point so I'll
> > drill through and insert a 6" bolt from bottom to top in the bumper
> > attachement holes. I'll use the stock hole farther back on the frame
> > and for extra strength drill through the frame where the round
> > crossmember is and put in another bolt with a nut inside the round
> > crossmember. That should be strong enough.
>
> The long bolt through the frame isn't a good idea unless it has a crush
> sleeve inside the frame. It won't stay stable or tight.
>
> It is easy enough to put one in.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
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Thanks Mike. Actually, I was planning on using a crush sleeve thanks
to your post regarding feedback on a bumper design in another thread.
Already bought the pipe!