Re: M.Romain -- High Speed Misfire(?)
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:406B55E4.51645D31@sympatico.ca... > LOL and Yes, the check valve should only have vapors. > > The gas tank wants to be at atmospheric pressure. > > So the vent line is plugged with gas and the vent was disconnected for > some reason. > That's easy. It rotted and fell off. > Going swimming with an open suction when active vent line makes for a > plugged with mud line in my mind.... > It didn't swim that deep. That is deep enough to allow water to flow in through the door openings. And, we all know that Real Jeeps don't have doors ;-). > You should be able to blow through the line from the engine back. > > 'Usually' when I see the canister disconnected it is because it's system > quit and the vehicle started acting like you describe. Running with the > gas cap off is the test though. > > Could you have a pinhole leak on the suction side of the fuel pump? > > You have an electric pump now right? > Yeah. An external electric pump. Are you suggesting that it could be sucking air through a hole in the line from the pick up to the pump itself? I hadn't considered that. It fits the profile though. As I was replacing the missing vac line to appease the Smog Nazis, I noticed the high pressure fuel lines appeared to have cracks developing. Now, I have to replace them too or risk an impromptu shut down and possible fire. I pray the fire starts slowly so I can get away ... > Meanwhile wires and coil can wear out. One fast test for wires is to > get a spray bottle with water and mist the wires at night in the dark > with the engine fully heated up. If you get a light show, you need new > wires. If not, no problems there. > > To check the coil, pull over when it acts up and feel the thing. If it > is more than comfortably hot in your hand suspect failure. Caution! > Touch it easy first, it can be 'red' hot if failing. > Is it hot electrically? I know you were talking temps, but can it light my ass with a shock that will throw me across the road, or slam my head into the underside of the hood? It is 25kV, after all. Even at a miliamp, that can be quite a hit. > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > I KNEW you were gonna say that! > > > > I took the cap off the other day, and still had the trouble. I can't say > > that the trouble was better or worse, but it was still present. The one-way > > on the cap itself seems to be OK, I can suck air in through it, but I can > > not blow air out. One of the tests they do at the Smog Station is to make > > sure that fumes don't escape, and it passed that test. (that would be the > > blowing test that I performed.) > > > > The canister is a whole new arena for me. It does go swimming from time to > > time, and mud could have clogged any filter that lives inside. Having said > > that, I did not have the hose from the canister to the tank until I went to > > the Smog Station last week. The Smog Cop noticed that the hose was not > > there, but the same Smog Cop has tested it twice before and the hose was > > missing then too. At any rate, he made me put the hose on. While attaching > > the hose, I noticed that the Roll Over Check Valve and the check valve that > > is on the vapor hose going to the canister both look pretty cruddy. The Roll > > Over Check Valve has hoses on it that go directly to the gas tank, and the > > actually have gas in them, not vapors. I don't know how they are plumbed > > relative to where the fuel pump is, or the fuel pick up. If the Roll Over > > Check Valve was stuck half open, or half closed, would it give me the grief > > that I am having? > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:406B3533.FEB197C2@sympatico.ca... > > > You could be giving the textbook symptoms for a plugged up air filter on > > > the gas tank vent. > > > > > > It is a two dollar filter and lives on the bottom of the charcoal > > > canister. > > > > > > I would check that first, just drive with the gas cap loose or off for a > > > while and see if the problem goes away. > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > I have been suffering for quite some time with a high speed mis that > > seems > > > > to be heat related. That is, the mis seems to develop and grow more > > severe > > > > over time. The motor runs well at street speeds, and it continues to run > > > > well when I enter the freeway. After driving on the freeway for a few > > > > minutes, it starts to mis. If I pull over to investigate, I can't find > > any > > > > fault, and when I reenter the freeway it runs fine again for a few > > minutes > > > > and begins to mis again. As I continue on my trip, the mis becomes more > > > > severe, and I think it even results in driveline lash and noise that is > > > > caused by the motor slowing or stopping, and the gears catching up, then > > the > > > > motor begins running again and takes the slop in the gears back. > > > > > > > > I pulled the plugs a few months ago and the #3 or #4 was crusted with a > > > > white build up. I don't seem to have trouble keeping coolant in the > > motor, > > > > but the white crust is commonly thought to be coolant. I installed the > > Mopar > > > > MPFI back in '99, and just smogged again for the third time since > > > > installation. The Smog Nazis gave CRWLR a clean bill of health, they at > > > > least allow me to keep driving it so I assume the health is OK. I have > > not > > > > pulled the plugs again, but that seems like something I should do. > > > > > > > > I have never replaced the plug wires, and I wonder if they can break > > down > > > > because of heat. I also wonder if the coil can be having trouble keeping > > up. > > > > > > > > I tend to discount the idea that the motor istelf is the problem, but I > > have > > > > also been thinking that my compression is starting to be an issue - my > > Jeep > > > > will roll down the driveway if parked in 3rd gear, and I have > > experienced it > > > > rolling backwards in 1st or 2nd if I manage to stall it on a very steep > > > > incline. > > > > > > > > I have never experienced the affects of floating valves, but if valves > > can > > > > float, I think it would feel alot like what I am feeling now. Do valve > > > > springs grow weak and allow the valves to remain open? If I had a burnt > > > > valve, wouldn't I feel it all of the time? My thinking is that a bad > > valve > > > > would be apparent even at street and trail speeds, not just highway > > speeds, > > > > and the burnt valve would present a consistant symptom and I think my > > > > symptoms are variable. > > > > > > > > My symptoms seem to be consistant with a fuel delivery problem, but I > > > > replaced the fuel pump and the problems did not go away. Now that I have > > > > been using the new pump for about a year, the problem seems to be > > growing > > > > worse. I can't get my mind off of the fuel system, but I have a > > relatively > > > > new pump (not a rebuild) and filter. The only thing I haven't gotten to > > is > > > > the fuel pick up inside the tank. My tank is so battered and bent that > > it > > > > scares me to think of taking it down because it may not go back up. (I > > think > > > > the holes only line up today because the bolts are there, when the bolts > > > > come out, the holes won't line up anymore.) Then, there is that whole > > issue > > > > with getting dirt in my eyes from the sand that is going to fall off. I > > am > > > > quite the sissy, you know. > > > > > > > > So, my main questions are, > > > > Is there anything inside the tank that can give me grief that I MUST be > > > > looking at but choose to ignore? > > > > > > > > Do the plug wires present a risk of break down that can cause my > > symptoms? > > > > > > > > Can the coil itself suffer from old age after 5 years and fail to charge > > > > fast enough? > > > > > > > > Is there something pounding on my forehead so hard that I can't see the > > > > hammer? |
Re: M.Romain -- High Speed Misfire(?)
CRWLR wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:406B55E4.51645D31@sympatico.ca... > > LOL and Yes, the check valve should only have vapors. > > > > The gas tank wants to be at atmospheric pressure. > > > > So the vent line is plugged with gas and the vent was disconnected for > > some reason. > > > That's easy. It rotted and fell off. Bad sign for the rest of them... > > > Going swimming with an open suction when active vent line makes for a > > plugged with mud line in my mind.... > > > It didn't swim that deep. That is deep enough to allow water to flow in > through the door openings. And, we all know that Real Jeeps don't have doors > ;-). Splash factor... > > > You should be able to blow through the line from the engine back. > > > > 'Usually' when I see the canister disconnected it is because it's system > > quit and the vehicle started acting like you describe. Running with the > > gas cap off is the test though. > > > > Could you have a pinhole leak on the suction side of the fuel pump? > > > > You have an electric pump now right? > > > Yeah. An external electric pump. > > Are you suggesting that it could be sucking air through a hole in the line > from the pick up to the pump itself? I hadn't considered that. It fits the > profile though. As I was replacing the missing vac line to appease the Smog > Nazis, I noticed the high pressure fuel lines appeared to have cracks > developing. Now, I have to replace them too or risk an impromptu shut down > and possible fire. I pray the fire starts slowly so I can get away ... Yes, I am implying that for sure. Suction leaks are sneaky, they just make a slight stain on the line, they don't piss out like pressure lines. Usually they are right where the rusty line hits the rotted 'rubber' hose. > > > Meanwhile wires and coil can wear out. One fast test for wires is to > > get a spray bottle with water and mist the wires at night in the dark > > with the engine fully heated up. If you get a light show, you need new > > wires. If not, no problems there. > > > > To check the coil, pull over when it acts up and feel the thing. If it > > is more than comfortably hot in your hand suspect failure. Caution! > > Touch it easy first, it can be 'red' hot if failing. > > > Is it hot electrically? I know you were talking temps, but can it light my > ass with a shock that will throw me across the road, or slam my head into > the underside of the hood? It is 25kV, after all. Even at a miliamp, that > can be quite a hit. If the coil wire is bad and leaking to ground on the coil case, touching the coil can give you a lift, that's unusual but does happen, but I was talking physically burning hot. The water spray test in the dark will tell you if the coil wire leaks. Mike > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > I KNEW you were gonna say that! > > > > > > I took the cap off the other day, and still had the trouble. I can't say > > > that the trouble was better or worse, but it was still present. The > one-way > > > on the cap itself seems to be OK, I can suck air in through it, but I > can > > > not blow air out. One of the tests they do at the Smog Station is to > make > > > sure that fumes don't escape, and it passed that test. (that would be > the > > > blowing test that I performed.) > > > > > > The canister is a whole new arena for me. It does go swimming from time > to > > > time, and mud could have clogged any filter that lives inside. Having > said > > > that, I did not have the hose from the canister to the tank until I went > to > > > the Smog Station last week. The Smog Cop noticed that the hose was not > > > there, but the same Smog Cop has tested it twice before and the hose was > > > missing then too. At any rate, he made me put the hose on. While > attaching > > > the hose, I noticed that the Roll Over Check Valve and the check valve > that > > > is on the vapor hose going to the canister both look pretty cruddy. The > Roll > > > Over Check Valve has hoses on it that go directly to the gas tank, and > the > > > actually have gas in them, not vapors. I don't know how they are plumbed > > > relative to where the fuel pump is, or the fuel pick up. If the Roll > Over > > > Check Valve was stuck half open, or half closed, would it give me the > grief > > > that I am having? > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:406B3533.FEB197C2@sympatico.ca... > > > > You could be giving the textbook symptoms for a plugged up air filter > on > > > > the gas tank vent. > > > > > > > > It is a two dollar filter and lives on the bottom of the charcoal > > > > canister. > > > > > > > > I would check that first, just drive with the gas cap loose or off for > a > > > > while and see if the problem goes away. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > I have been suffering for quite some time with a high speed mis that > > > seems > > > > > to be heat related. That is, the mis seems to develop and grow more > > > severe > > > > > over time. The motor runs well at street speeds, and it continues to > run > > > > > well when I enter the freeway. After driving on the freeway for a > few > > > > > minutes, it starts to mis. If I pull over to investigate, I can't > find > > > any > > > > > fault, and when I reenter the freeway it runs fine again for a few > > > minutes > > > > > and begins to mis again. As I continue on my trip, the mis becomes > more > > > > > severe, and I think it even results in driveline lash and noise that > is > > > > > caused by the motor slowing or stopping, and the gears catching up, > then > > > the > > > > > motor begins running again and takes the slop in the gears back. > > > > > > > > > > I pulled the plugs a few months ago and the #3 or #4 was crusted > with a > > > > > white build up. I don't seem to have trouble keeping coolant in the > > > motor, > > > > > but the white crust is commonly thought to be coolant. I installed > the > > > Mopar > > > > > MPFI back in '99, and just smogged again for the third time since > > > > > installation. The Smog Nazis gave CRWLR a clean bill of health, they > at > > > > > least allow me to keep driving it so I assume the health is OK. I > have > > > not > > > > > pulled the plugs again, but that seems like something I should do. > > > > > > > > > > I have never replaced the plug wires, and I wonder if they can break > > > down > > > > > because of heat. I also wonder if the coil can be having trouble > keeping > > > up. > > > > > > > > > > I tend to discount the idea that the motor istelf is the problem, > but I > > > have > > > > > also been thinking that my compression is starting to be an issue - > my > > > Jeep > > > > > will roll down the driveway if parked in 3rd gear, and I have > > > experienced it > > > > > rolling backwards in 1st or 2nd if I manage to stall it on a very > steep > > > > > incline. > > > > > > > > > > I have never experienced the affects of floating valves, but if > valves > > > can > > > > > float, I think it would feel alot like what I am feeling now. Do > valve > > > > > springs grow weak and allow the valves to remain open? If I had a > burnt > > > > > valve, wouldn't I feel it all of the time? My thinking is that a bad > > > valve > > > > > would be apparent even at street and trail speeds, not just highway > > > speeds, > > > > > and the burnt valve would present a consistant symptom and I think > my > > > > > symptoms are variable. > > > > > > > > > > My symptoms seem to be consistant with a fuel delivery problem, but > I > > > > > replaced the fuel pump and the problems did not go away. Now that I > have > > > > > been using the new pump for about a year, the problem seems to be > > > growing > > > > > worse. I can't get my mind off of the fuel system, but I have a > > > relatively > > > > > new pump (not a rebuild) and filter. The only thing I haven't gotten > to > > > is > > > > > the fuel pick up inside the tank. My tank is so battered and bent > that > > > it > > > > > scares me to think of taking it down because it may not go back up. > (I > > > think > > > > > the holes only line up today because the bolts are there, when the > bolts > > > > > come out, the holes won't line up anymore.) Then, there is that > whole > > > issue > > > > > with getting dirt in my eyes from the sand that is going to fall > off. I > > > am > > > > > quite the sissy, you know. > > > > > > > > > > So, my main questions are, > > > > > Is there anything inside the tank that can give me grief that I MUST > be > > > > > looking at but choose to ignore? > > > > > > > > > > Do the plug wires present a risk of break down that can cause my > > > symptoms? > > > > > > > > > > Can the coil itself suffer from old age after 5 years and fail to > charge > > > > > fast enough? > > > > > > > > > > Is there something pounding on my forehead so hard that I can't see > the > > > > > hammer? |
Re: M.Romain -- High Speed Misfire(?)
CRWLR wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:406B55E4.51645D31@sympatico.ca... > > LOL and Yes, the check valve should only have vapors. > > > > The gas tank wants to be at atmospheric pressure. > > > > So the vent line is plugged with gas and the vent was disconnected for > > some reason. > > > That's easy. It rotted and fell off. Bad sign for the rest of them... > > > Going swimming with an open suction when active vent line makes for a > > plugged with mud line in my mind.... > > > It didn't swim that deep. That is deep enough to allow water to flow in > through the door openings. And, we all know that Real Jeeps don't have doors > ;-). Splash factor... > > > You should be able to blow through the line from the engine back. > > > > 'Usually' when I see the canister disconnected it is because it's system > > quit and the vehicle started acting like you describe. Running with the > > gas cap off is the test though. > > > > Could you have a pinhole leak on the suction side of the fuel pump? > > > > You have an electric pump now right? > > > Yeah. An external electric pump. > > Are you suggesting that it could be sucking air through a hole in the line > from the pick up to the pump itself? I hadn't considered that. It fits the > profile though. As I was replacing the missing vac line to appease the Smog > Nazis, I noticed the high pressure fuel lines appeared to have cracks > developing. Now, I have to replace them too or risk an impromptu shut down > and possible fire. I pray the fire starts slowly so I can get away ... Yes, I am implying that for sure. Suction leaks are sneaky, they just make a slight stain on the line, they don't piss out like pressure lines. Usually they are right where the rusty line hits the rotted 'rubber' hose. > > > Meanwhile wires and coil can wear out. One fast test for wires is to > > get a spray bottle with water and mist the wires at night in the dark > > with the engine fully heated up. If you get a light show, you need new > > wires. If not, no problems there. > > > > To check the coil, pull over when it acts up and feel the thing. If it > > is more than comfortably hot in your hand suspect failure. Caution! > > Touch it easy first, it can be 'red' hot if failing. > > > Is it hot electrically? I know you were talking temps, but can it light my > ass with a shock that will throw me across the road, or slam my head into > the underside of the hood? It is 25kV, after all. Even at a miliamp, that > can be quite a hit. If the coil wire is bad and leaking to ground on the coil case, touching the coil can give you a lift, that's unusual but does happen, but I was talking physically burning hot. The water spray test in the dark will tell you if the coil wire leaks. Mike > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > I KNEW you were gonna say that! > > > > > > I took the cap off the other day, and still had the trouble. I can't say > > > that the trouble was better or worse, but it was still present. The > one-way > > > on the cap itself seems to be OK, I can suck air in through it, but I > can > > > not blow air out. One of the tests they do at the Smog Station is to > make > > > sure that fumes don't escape, and it passed that test. (that would be > the > > > blowing test that I performed.) > > > > > > The canister is a whole new arena for me. It does go swimming from time > to > > > time, and mud could have clogged any filter that lives inside. Having > said > > > that, I did not have the hose from the canister to the tank until I went > to > > > the Smog Station last week. The Smog Cop noticed that the hose was not > > > there, but the same Smog Cop has tested it twice before and the hose was > > > missing then too. At any rate, he made me put the hose on. While > attaching > > > the hose, I noticed that the Roll Over Check Valve and the check valve > that > > > is on the vapor hose going to the canister both look pretty cruddy. The > Roll > > > Over Check Valve has hoses on it that go directly to the gas tank, and > the > > > actually have gas in them, not vapors. I don't know how they are plumbed > > > relative to where the fuel pump is, or the fuel pick up. If the Roll > Over > > > Check Valve was stuck half open, or half closed, would it give me the > grief > > > that I am having? > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:406B3533.FEB197C2@sympatico.ca... > > > > You could be giving the textbook symptoms for a plugged up air filter > on > > > > the gas tank vent. > > > > > > > > It is a two dollar filter and lives on the bottom of the charcoal > > > > canister. > > > > > > > > I would check that first, just drive with the gas cap loose or off for > a > > > > while and see if the problem goes away. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > I have been suffering for quite some time with a high speed mis that > > > seems > > > > > to be heat related. That is, the mis seems to develop and grow more > > > severe > > > > > over time. The motor runs well at street speeds, and it continues to > run > > > > > well when I enter the freeway. After driving on the freeway for a > few > > > > > minutes, it starts to mis. If I pull over to investigate, I can't > find > > > any > > > > > fault, and when I reenter the freeway it runs fine again for a few > > > minutes > > > > > and begins to mis again. As I continue on my trip, the mis becomes > more > > > > > severe, and I think it even results in driveline lash and noise that > is > > > > > caused by the motor slowing or stopping, and the gears catching up, > then > > > the > > > > > motor begins running again and takes the slop in the gears back. > > > > > > > > > > I pulled the plugs a few months ago and the #3 or #4 was crusted > with a > > > > > white build up. I don't seem to have trouble keeping coolant in the > > > motor, > > > > > but the white crust is commonly thought to be coolant. I installed > the > > > Mopar > > > > > MPFI back in '99, and just smogged again for the third time since > > > > > installation. The Smog Nazis gave CRWLR a clean bill of health, they > at > > > > > least allow me to keep driving it so I assume the health is OK. I > have > > > not > > > > > pulled the plugs again, but that seems like something I should do. > > > > > > > > > > I have never replaced the plug wires, and I wonder if they can break > > > down > > > > > because of heat. I also wonder if the coil can be having trouble > keeping > > > up. > > > > > > > > > > I tend to discount the idea that the motor istelf is the problem, > but I > > > have > > > > > also been thinking that my compression is starting to be an issue - > my > > > Jeep > > > > > will roll down the driveway if parked in 3rd gear, and I have > > > experienced it > > > > > rolling backwards in 1st or 2nd if I manage to stall it on a very > steep > > > > > incline. > > > > > > > > > > I have never experienced the affects of floating valves, but if > valves > > > can > > > > > float, I think it would feel alot like what I am feeling now. Do > valve > > > > > springs grow weak and allow the valves to remain open? If I had a > burnt > > > > > valve, wouldn't I feel it all of the time? My thinking is that a bad > > > valve > > > > > would be apparent even at street and trail speeds, not just highway > > > speeds, > > > > > and the burnt valve would present a consistant symptom and I think > my > > > > > symptoms are variable. > > > > > > > > > > My symptoms seem to be consistant with a fuel delivery problem, but > I > > > > > replaced the fuel pump and the problems did not go away. Now that I > have > > > > > been using the new pump for about a year, the problem seems to be > > > growing > > > > > worse. I can't get my mind off of the fuel system, but I have a > > > relatively > > > > > new pump (not a rebuild) and filter. The only thing I haven't gotten > to > > > is > > > > > the fuel pick up inside the tank. My tank is so battered and bent > that > > > it > > > > > scares me to think of taking it down because it may not go back up. > (I > > > think > > > > > the holes only line up today because the bolts are there, when the > bolts > > > > > come out, the holes won't line up anymore.) Then, there is that > whole > > > issue > > > > > with getting dirt in my eyes from the sand that is going to fall > off. I > > > am > > > > > quite the sissy, you know. > > > > > > > > > > So, my main questions are, > > > > > Is there anything inside the tank that can give me grief that I MUST > be > > > > > looking at but choose to ignore? > > > > > > > > > > Do the plug wires present a risk of break down that can cause my > > > symptoms? > > > > > > > > > > Can the coil itself suffer from old age after 5 years and fail to > charge > > > > > fast enough? > > > > > > > > > > Is there something pounding on my forehead so hard that I can't see > the > > > > > hammer? |
Re: M.Romain -- High Speed Misfire(?)
CRWLR wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:406B55E4.51645D31@sympatico.ca... > > LOL and Yes, the check valve should only have vapors. > > > > The gas tank wants to be at atmospheric pressure. > > > > So the vent line is plugged with gas and the vent was disconnected for > > some reason. > > > That's easy. It rotted and fell off. Bad sign for the rest of them... > > > Going swimming with an open suction when active vent line makes for a > > plugged with mud line in my mind.... > > > It didn't swim that deep. That is deep enough to allow water to flow in > through the door openings. And, we all know that Real Jeeps don't have doors > ;-). Splash factor... > > > You should be able to blow through the line from the engine back. > > > > 'Usually' when I see the canister disconnected it is because it's system > > quit and the vehicle started acting like you describe. Running with the > > gas cap off is the test though. > > > > Could you have a pinhole leak on the suction side of the fuel pump? > > > > You have an electric pump now right? > > > Yeah. An external electric pump. > > Are you suggesting that it could be sucking air through a hole in the line > from the pick up to the pump itself? I hadn't considered that. It fits the > profile though. As I was replacing the missing vac line to appease the Smog > Nazis, I noticed the high pressure fuel lines appeared to have cracks > developing. Now, I have to replace them too or risk an impromptu shut down > and possible fire. I pray the fire starts slowly so I can get away ... Yes, I am implying that for sure. Suction leaks are sneaky, they just make a slight stain on the line, they don't piss out like pressure lines. Usually they are right where the rusty line hits the rotted 'rubber' hose. > > > Meanwhile wires and coil can wear out. One fast test for wires is to > > get a spray bottle with water and mist the wires at night in the dark > > with the engine fully heated up. If you get a light show, you need new > > wires. If not, no problems there. > > > > To check the coil, pull over when it acts up and feel the thing. If it > > is more than comfortably hot in your hand suspect failure. Caution! > > Touch it easy first, it can be 'red' hot if failing. > > > Is it hot electrically? I know you were talking temps, but can it light my > ass with a shock that will throw me across the road, or slam my head into > the underside of the hood? It is 25kV, after all. Even at a miliamp, that > can be quite a hit. If the coil wire is bad and leaking to ground on the coil case, touching the coil can give you a lift, that's unusual but does happen, but I was talking physically burning hot. The water spray test in the dark will tell you if the coil wire leaks. Mike > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > I KNEW you were gonna say that! > > > > > > I took the cap off the other day, and still had the trouble. I can't say > > > that the trouble was better or worse, but it was still present. The > one-way > > > on the cap itself seems to be OK, I can suck air in through it, but I > can > > > not blow air out. One of the tests they do at the Smog Station is to > make > > > sure that fumes don't escape, and it passed that test. (that would be > the > > > blowing test that I performed.) > > > > > > The canister is a whole new arena for me. It does go swimming from time > to > > > time, and mud could have clogged any filter that lives inside. Having > said > > > that, I did not have the hose from the canister to the tank until I went > to > > > the Smog Station last week. The Smog Cop noticed that the hose was not > > > there, but the same Smog Cop has tested it twice before and the hose was > > > missing then too. At any rate, he made me put the hose on. While > attaching > > > the hose, I noticed that the Roll Over Check Valve and the check valve > that > > > is on the vapor hose going to the canister both look pretty cruddy. The > Roll > > > Over Check Valve has hoses on it that go directly to the gas tank, and > the > > > actually have gas in them, not vapors. I don't know how they are plumbed > > > relative to where the fuel pump is, or the fuel pick up. If the Roll > Over > > > Check Valve was stuck half open, or half closed, would it give me the > grief > > > that I am having? > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:406B3533.FEB197C2@sympatico.ca... > > > > You could be giving the textbook symptoms for a plugged up air filter > on > > > > the gas tank vent. > > > > > > > > It is a two dollar filter and lives on the bottom of the charcoal > > > > canister. > > > > > > > > I would check that first, just drive with the gas cap loose or off for > a > > > > while and see if the problem goes away. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > I have been suffering for quite some time with a high speed mis that > > > seems > > > > > to be heat related. That is, the mis seems to develop and grow more > > > severe > > > > > over time. The motor runs well at street speeds, and it continues to > run > > > > > well when I enter the freeway. After driving on the freeway for a > few > > > > > minutes, it starts to mis. If I pull over to investigate, I can't > find > > > any > > > > > fault, and when I reenter the freeway it runs fine again for a few > > > minutes > > > > > and begins to mis again. As I continue on my trip, the mis becomes > more > > > > > severe, and I think it even results in driveline lash and noise that > is > > > > > caused by the motor slowing or stopping, and the gears catching up, > then > > > the > > > > > motor begins running again and takes the slop in the gears back. > > > > > > > > > > I pulled the plugs a few months ago and the #3 or #4 was crusted > with a > > > > > white build up. I don't seem to have trouble keeping coolant in the > > > motor, > > > > > but the white crust is commonly thought to be coolant. I installed > the > > > Mopar > > > > > MPFI back in '99, and just smogged again for the third time since > > > > > installation. The Smog Nazis gave CRWLR a clean bill of health, they > at > > > > > least allow me to keep driving it so I assume the health is OK. I > have > > > not > > > > > pulled the plugs again, but that seems like something I should do. > > > > > > > > > > I have never replaced the plug wires, and I wonder if they can break > > > down > > > > > because of heat. I also wonder if the coil can be having trouble > keeping > > > up. > > > > > > > > > > I tend to discount the idea that the motor istelf is the problem, > but I > > > have > > > > > also been thinking that my compression is starting to be an issue - > my > > > Jeep > > > > > will roll down the driveway if parked in 3rd gear, and I have > > > experienced it > > > > > rolling backwards in 1st or 2nd if I manage to stall it on a very > steep > > > > > incline. > > > > > > > > > > I have never experienced the affects of floating valves, but if > valves > > > can > > > > > float, I think it would feel alot like what I am feeling now. Do > valve > > > > > springs grow weak and allow the valves to remain open? If I had a > burnt > > > > > valve, wouldn't I feel it all of the time? My thinking is that a bad > > > valve > > > > > would be apparent even at street and trail speeds, not just highway > > > speeds, > > > > > and the burnt valve would present a consistant symptom and I think > my > > > > > symptoms are variable. > > > > > > > > > > My symptoms seem to be consistant with a fuel delivery problem, but > I > > > > > replaced the fuel pump and the problems did not go away. Now that I > have > > > > > been using the new pump for about a year, the problem seems to be > > > growing > > > > > worse. I can't get my mind off of the fuel system, but I have a > > > relatively > > > > > new pump (not a rebuild) and filter. The only thing I haven't gotten > to > > > is > > > > > the fuel pick up inside the tank. My tank is so battered and bent > that > > > it > > > > > scares me to think of taking it down because it may not go back up. > (I > > > think > > > > > the holes only line up today because the bolts are there, when the > bolts > > > > > come out, the holes won't line up anymore.) Then, there is that > whole > > > issue > > > > > with getting dirt in my eyes from the sand that is going to fall > off. I > > > am > > > > > quite the sissy, you know. > > > > > > > > > > So, my main questions are, > > > > > Is there anything inside the tank that can give me grief that I MUST > be > > > > > looking at but choose to ignore? > > > > > > > > > > Do the plug wires present a risk of break down that can cause my > > > symptoms? > > > > > > > > > > Can the coil itself suffer from old age after 5 years and fail to > charge > > > > > fast enough? > > > > > > > > > > Is there something pounding on my forehead so hard that I can't see > the > > > > > hammer? |
Re: M.Romain -- High Speed Misfire(?)
CRWLR wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:406B55E4.51645D31@sympatico.ca... > > LOL and Yes, the check valve should only have vapors. > > > > The gas tank wants to be at atmospheric pressure. > > > > So the vent line is plugged with gas and the vent was disconnected for > > some reason. > > > That's easy. It rotted and fell off. Bad sign for the rest of them... > > > Going swimming with an open suction when active vent line makes for a > > plugged with mud line in my mind.... > > > It didn't swim that deep. That is deep enough to allow water to flow in > through the door openings. And, we all know that Real Jeeps don't have doors > ;-). Splash factor... > > > You should be able to blow through the line from the engine back. > > > > 'Usually' when I see the canister disconnected it is because it's system > > quit and the vehicle started acting like you describe. Running with the > > gas cap off is the test though. > > > > Could you have a pinhole leak on the suction side of the fuel pump? > > > > You have an electric pump now right? > > > Yeah. An external electric pump. > > Are you suggesting that it could be sucking air through a hole in the line > from the pick up to the pump itself? I hadn't considered that. It fits the > profile though. As I was replacing the missing vac line to appease the Smog > Nazis, I noticed the high pressure fuel lines appeared to have cracks > developing. Now, I have to replace them too or risk an impromptu shut down > and possible fire. I pray the fire starts slowly so I can get away ... Yes, I am implying that for sure. Suction leaks are sneaky, they just make a slight stain on the line, they don't piss out like pressure lines. Usually they are right where the rusty line hits the rotted 'rubber' hose. > > > Meanwhile wires and coil can wear out. One fast test for wires is to > > get a spray bottle with water and mist the wires at night in the dark > > with the engine fully heated up. If you get a light show, you need new > > wires. If not, no problems there. > > > > To check the coil, pull over when it acts up and feel the thing. If it > > is more than comfortably hot in your hand suspect failure. Caution! > > Touch it easy first, it can be 'red' hot if failing. > > > Is it hot electrically? I know you were talking temps, but can it light my > ass with a shock that will throw me across the road, or slam my head into > the underside of the hood? It is 25kV, after all. Even at a miliamp, that > can be quite a hit. If the coil wire is bad and leaking to ground on the coil case, touching the coil can give you a lift, that's unusual but does happen, but I was talking physically burning hot. The water spray test in the dark will tell you if the coil wire leaks. Mike > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > I KNEW you were gonna say that! > > > > > > I took the cap off the other day, and still had the trouble. I can't say > > > that the trouble was better or worse, but it was still present. The > one-way > > > on the cap itself seems to be OK, I can suck air in through it, but I > can > > > not blow air out. One of the tests they do at the Smog Station is to > make > > > sure that fumes don't escape, and it passed that test. (that would be > the > > > blowing test that I performed.) > > > > > > The canister is a whole new arena for me. It does go swimming from time > to > > > time, and mud could have clogged any filter that lives inside. Having > said > > > that, I did not have the hose from the canister to the tank until I went > to > > > the Smog Station last week. The Smog Cop noticed that the hose was not > > > there, but the same Smog Cop has tested it twice before and the hose was > > > missing then too. At any rate, he made me put the hose on. While > attaching > > > the hose, I noticed that the Roll Over Check Valve and the check valve > that > > > is on the vapor hose going to the canister both look pretty cruddy. The > Roll > > > Over Check Valve has hoses on it that go directly to the gas tank, and > the > > > actually have gas in them, not vapors. I don't know how they are plumbed > > > relative to where the fuel pump is, or the fuel pick up. If the Roll > Over > > > Check Valve was stuck half open, or half closed, would it give me the > grief > > > that I am having? > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:406B3533.FEB197C2@sympatico.ca... > > > > You could be giving the textbook symptoms for a plugged up air filter > on > > > > the gas tank vent. > > > > > > > > It is a two dollar filter and lives on the bottom of the charcoal > > > > canister. > > > > > > > > I would check that first, just drive with the gas cap loose or off for > a > > > > while and see if the problem goes away. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > > > > > I have been suffering for quite some time with a high speed mis that > > > seems > > > > > to be heat related. That is, the mis seems to develop and grow more > > > severe > > > > > over time. The motor runs well at street speeds, and it continues to > run > > > > > well when I enter the freeway. After driving on the freeway for a > few > > > > > minutes, it starts to mis. If I pull over to investigate, I can't > find > > > any > > > > > fault, and when I reenter the freeway it runs fine again for a few > > > minutes > > > > > and begins to mis again. As I continue on my trip, the mis becomes > more > > > > > severe, and I think it even results in driveline lash and noise that > is > > > > > caused by the motor slowing or stopping, and the gears catching up, > then > > > the > > > > > motor begins running again and takes the slop in the gears back. > > > > > > > > > > I pulled the plugs a few months ago and the #3 or #4 was crusted > with a > > > > > white build up. I don't seem to have trouble keeping coolant in the > > > motor, > > > > > but the white crust is commonly thought to be coolant. I installed > the > > > Mopar > > > > > MPFI back in '99, and just smogged again for the third time since > > > > > installation. The Smog Nazis gave CRWLR a clean bill of health, they > at > > > > > least allow me to keep driving it so I assume the health is OK. I > have > > > not > > > > > pulled the plugs again, but that seems like something I should do. > > > > > > > > > > I have never replaced the plug wires, and I wonder if they can break > > > down > > > > > because of heat. I also wonder if the coil can be having trouble > keeping > > > up. > > > > > > > > > > I tend to discount the idea that the motor istelf is the problem, > but I > > > have > > > > > also been thinking that my compression is starting to be an issue - > my > > > Jeep > > > > > will roll down the driveway if parked in 3rd gear, and I have > > > experienced it > > > > > rolling backwards in 1st or 2nd if I manage to stall it on a very > steep > > > > > incline. > > > > > > > > > > I have never experienced the affects of floating valves, but if > valves > > > can > > > > > float, I think it would feel alot like what I am feeling now. Do > valve > > > > > springs grow weak and allow the valves to remain open? If I had a > burnt > > > > > valve, wouldn't I feel it all of the time? My thinking is that a bad > > > valve > > > > > would be apparent even at street and trail speeds, not just highway > > > speeds, > > > > > and the burnt valve would present a consistant symptom and I think > my > > > > > symptoms are variable. > > > > > > > > > > My symptoms seem to be consistant with a fuel delivery problem, but > I > > > > > replaced the fuel pump and the problems did not go away. Now that I > have > > > > > been using the new pump for about a year, the problem seems to be > > > growing > > > > > worse. I can't get my mind off of the fuel system, but I have a > > > relatively > > > > > new pump (not a rebuild) and filter. The only thing I haven't gotten > to > > > is > > > > > the fuel pick up inside the tank. My tank is so battered and bent > that > > > it > > > > > scares me to think of taking it down because it may not go back up. > (I > > > think > > > > > the holes only line up today because the bolts are there, when the > bolts > > > > > come out, the holes won't line up anymore.) Then, there is that > whole > > > issue > > > > > with getting dirt in my eyes from the sand that is going to fall > off. I > > > am > > > > > quite the sissy, you know. > > > > > > > > > > So, my main questions are, > > > > > Is there anything inside the tank that can give me grief that I MUST > be > > > > > looking at but choose to ignore? > > > > > > > > > > Do the plug wires present a risk of break down that can cause my > > > symptoms? > > > > > > > > > > Can the coil itself suffer from old age after 5 years and fail to > charge > > > > > fast enough? > > > > > > > > > > Is there something pounding on my forehead so hard that I can't see > the > > > > > hammer? |
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