problem with transfer case
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
Yup, bushings.
Yours sound right.
The shifter is supposed to sit outside on the passenger side. The two
forks the bolt goes through are supposed to have nylon bushings in
them. These holes are about 1/16" bigger then the hole in the shifter.
The shifter then just sits on the end with a nut holding it on.
I am thinking that one of the pins has let go from the shifter to the
two moving rods.
One rod controls front or rear wheel drive, the other rod controls 4
high or low or 2.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
matthewf wrote:
>
> Thanks for the suggestions Gents.
> What I found when i dropped the skidplate is that the shift lever
> itself was NOT passing through the two 'ears' on the front bearing
> cap. It was on the passenger side outside.
>
> The reason being that the hole in the shift lever where the shift
> shaft is supposed to go through, is too small for the shift shaft. So
> they stuck just the threaded end of the shift shaft through the hole
> (which fits) and got the nut on about two threads worth.
>
> Really bizaar. The shift shaft is about a 16th larger than .5" dia.
> and it fits correctly (snuggly, no slop) in the holes in the front
> bearing cap.
>
> The hole in shift lever itself is about a 16th smaller than .5" dia.-
>
> So since the shift shaft fits, it looks like the shift lever itself is
> not the right one? and they twisted it so it would sit outside the
> ears, where the smaller dia. threads would fit through the hole. What
> a hack job.
>
> So before I go in and look at internals I think I should get this
> linkage fixed up. looks like I need to get a new shifter for a 300
> t-case that will hopefully have the right dia. hole?
>
> Am I missing something here that would explain why these parts don't
> fit?
> Thanks
Yours sound right.
The shifter is supposed to sit outside on the passenger side. The two
forks the bolt goes through are supposed to have nylon bushings in
them. These holes are about 1/16" bigger then the hole in the shifter.
The shifter then just sits on the end with a nut holding it on.
I am thinking that one of the pins has let go from the shifter to the
two moving rods.
One rod controls front or rear wheel drive, the other rod controls 4
high or low or 2.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
matthewf wrote:
>
> Thanks for the suggestions Gents.
> What I found when i dropped the skidplate is that the shift lever
> itself was NOT passing through the two 'ears' on the front bearing
> cap. It was on the passenger side outside.
>
> The reason being that the hole in the shift lever where the shift
> shaft is supposed to go through, is too small for the shift shaft. So
> they stuck just the threaded end of the shift shaft through the hole
> (which fits) and got the nut on about two threads worth.
>
> Really bizaar. The shift shaft is about a 16th larger than .5" dia.
> and it fits correctly (snuggly, no slop) in the holes in the front
> bearing cap.
>
> The hole in shift lever itself is about a 16th smaller than .5" dia.-
>
> So since the shift shaft fits, it looks like the shift lever itself is
> not the right one? and they twisted it so it would sit outside the
> ears, where the smaller dia. threads would fit through the hole. What
> a hack job.
>
> So before I go in and look at internals I think I should get this
> linkage fixed up. looks like I need to get a new shifter for a 300
> t-case that will hopefully have the right dia. hole?
>
> Am I missing something here that would explain why these parts don't
> fit?
> Thanks
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
> One rod controls front or rear wheel drive, the other rod controls 4
> high or low or 2.
The driver's side rod controls output to the rear drive shaft. When
it's fully extended, it's in high range. When it's fully inserted,
it's in low range. Between the two is neutral. The passenger's side
rod controls output to the front drive shaft in a likewise manner. It
sounds like your shifter isn't properly connected to your driver's
side rod, leaving it in neutral. There are some funny little pieces to
make the connections because the single shifter has to move the two
rods somewhat independently. For example - in 2-hi, it must engage the
rear in high range and leave the front in neutral. I'd recommend
considering a twin stick kit. It just gives you 2 shifters to control
the front and rear outputs yourself. All the parts are included, so it
doesn't matter if you've lost or worn something out. What I like
about it is that you can be offroad with your hubs locked in 2-lo.
When you need 4-lo, you move a shifter instead of getting out to lock
the hubs. When you're through the rough stuff, you move a shifter,
you're back in 2-lo, leaving your hubs locked for the next obstacle.
They're about $100 and are an easy installation by yourself. But, if
you decide you'd rather fix what you have and you figure out you need
replacements for some missing or worn out part, let me know. I may
still have the parts I removed when I installed my twin stick. Good
luck either way. I hope it's nothing more serious than that.
TrailMarker.
> high or low or 2.
The driver's side rod controls output to the rear drive shaft. When
it's fully extended, it's in high range. When it's fully inserted,
it's in low range. Between the two is neutral. The passenger's side
rod controls output to the front drive shaft in a likewise manner. It
sounds like your shifter isn't properly connected to your driver's
side rod, leaving it in neutral. There are some funny little pieces to
make the connections because the single shifter has to move the two
rods somewhat independently. For example - in 2-hi, it must engage the
rear in high range and leave the front in neutral. I'd recommend
considering a twin stick kit. It just gives you 2 shifters to control
the front and rear outputs yourself. All the parts are included, so it
doesn't matter if you've lost or worn something out. What I like
about it is that you can be offroad with your hubs locked in 2-lo.
When you need 4-lo, you move a shifter instead of getting out to lock
the hubs. When you're through the rough stuff, you move a shifter,
you're back in 2-lo, leaving your hubs locked for the next obstacle.
They're about $100 and are an easy installation by yourself. But, if
you decide you'd rather fix what you have and you figure out you need
replacements for some missing or worn out part, let me know. I may
still have the parts I removed when I installed my twin stick. Good
luck either way. I hope it's nothing more serious than that.
TrailMarker.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
> One rod controls front or rear wheel drive, the other rod controls 4
> high or low or 2.
The driver's side rod controls output to the rear drive shaft. When
it's fully extended, it's in high range. When it's fully inserted,
it's in low range. Between the two is neutral. The passenger's side
rod controls output to the front drive shaft in a likewise manner. It
sounds like your shifter isn't properly connected to your driver's
side rod, leaving it in neutral. There are some funny little pieces to
make the connections because the single shifter has to move the two
rods somewhat independently. For example - in 2-hi, it must engage the
rear in high range and leave the front in neutral. I'd recommend
considering a twin stick kit. It just gives you 2 shifters to control
the front and rear outputs yourself. All the parts are included, so it
doesn't matter if you've lost or worn something out. What I like
about it is that you can be offroad with your hubs locked in 2-lo.
When you need 4-lo, you move a shifter instead of getting out to lock
the hubs. When you're through the rough stuff, you move a shifter,
you're back in 2-lo, leaving your hubs locked for the next obstacle.
They're about $100 and are an easy installation by yourself. But, if
you decide you'd rather fix what you have and you figure out you need
replacements for some missing or worn out part, let me know. I may
still have the parts I removed when I installed my twin stick. Good
luck either way. I hope it's nothing more serious than that.
TrailMarker.
> high or low or 2.
The driver's side rod controls output to the rear drive shaft. When
it's fully extended, it's in high range. When it's fully inserted,
it's in low range. Between the two is neutral. The passenger's side
rod controls output to the front drive shaft in a likewise manner. It
sounds like your shifter isn't properly connected to your driver's
side rod, leaving it in neutral. There are some funny little pieces to
make the connections because the single shifter has to move the two
rods somewhat independently. For example - in 2-hi, it must engage the
rear in high range and leave the front in neutral. I'd recommend
considering a twin stick kit. It just gives you 2 shifters to control
the front and rear outputs yourself. All the parts are included, so it
doesn't matter if you've lost or worn something out. What I like
about it is that you can be offroad with your hubs locked in 2-lo.
When you need 4-lo, you move a shifter instead of getting out to lock
the hubs. When you're through the rough stuff, you move a shifter,
you're back in 2-lo, leaving your hubs locked for the next obstacle.
They're about $100 and are an easy installation by yourself. But, if
you decide you'd rather fix what you have and you figure out you need
replacements for some missing or worn out part, let me know. I may
still have the parts I removed when I installed my twin stick. Good
luck either way. I hope it's nothing more serious than that.
TrailMarker.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
> One rod controls front or rear wheel drive, the other rod controls 4
> high or low or 2.
The driver's side rod controls output to the rear drive shaft. When
it's fully extended, it's in high range. When it's fully inserted,
it's in low range. Between the two is neutral. The passenger's side
rod controls output to the front drive shaft in a likewise manner. It
sounds like your shifter isn't properly connected to your driver's
side rod, leaving it in neutral. There are some funny little pieces to
make the connections because the single shifter has to move the two
rods somewhat independently. For example - in 2-hi, it must engage the
rear in high range and leave the front in neutral. I'd recommend
considering a twin stick kit. It just gives you 2 shifters to control
the front and rear outputs yourself. All the parts are included, so it
doesn't matter if you've lost or worn something out. What I like
about it is that you can be offroad with your hubs locked in 2-lo.
When you need 4-lo, you move a shifter instead of getting out to lock
the hubs. When you're through the rough stuff, you move a shifter,
you're back in 2-lo, leaving your hubs locked for the next obstacle.
They're about $100 and are an easy installation by yourself. But, if
you decide you'd rather fix what you have and you figure out you need
replacements for some missing or worn out part, let me know. I may
still have the parts I removed when I installed my twin stick. Good
luck either way. I hope it's nothing more serious than that.
TrailMarker.
> high or low or 2.
The driver's side rod controls output to the rear drive shaft. When
it's fully extended, it's in high range. When it's fully inserted,
it's in low range. Between the two is neutral. The passenger's side
rod controls output to the front drive shaft in a likewise manner. It
sounds like your shifter isn't properly connected to your driver's
side rod, leaving it in neutral. There are some funny little pieces to
make the connections because the single shifter has to move the two
rods somewhat independently. For example - in 2-hi, it must engage the
rear in high range and leave the front in neutral. I'd recommend
considering a twin stick kit. It just gives you 2 shifters to control
the front and rear outputs yourself. All the parts are included, so it
doesn't matter if you've lost or worn something out. What I like
about it is that you can be offroad with your hubs locked in 2-lo.
When you need 4-lo, you move a shifter instead of getting out to lock
the hubs. When you're through the rough stuff, you move a shifter,
you're back in 2-lo, leaving your hubs locked for the next obstacle.
They're about $100 and are an easy installation by yourself. But, if
you decide you'd rather fix what you have and you figure out you need
replacements for some missing or worn out part, let me know. I may
still have the parts I removed when I installed my twin stick. Good
luck either way. I hope it's nothing more serious than that.
TrailMarker.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
> One rod controls front or rear wheel drive, the other rod controls 4
> high or low or 2.
The driver's side rod controls output to the rear drive shaft. When
it's fully extended, it's in high range. When it's fully inserted,
it's in low range. Between the two is neutral. The passenger's side
rod controls output to the front drive shaft in a likewise manner. It
sounds like your shifter isn't properly connected to your driver's
side rod, leaving it in neutral. There are some funny little pieces to
make the connections because the single shifter has to move the two
rods somewhat independently. For example - in 2-hi, it must engage the
rear in high range and leave the front in neutral. I'd recommend
considering a twin stick kit. It just gives you 2 shifters to control
the front and rear outputs yourself. All the parts are included, so it
doesn't matter if you've lost or worn something out. What I like
about it is that you can be offroad with your hubs locked in 2-lo.
When you need 4-lo, you move a shifter instead of getting out to lock
the hubs. When you're through the rough stuff, you move a shifter,
you're back in 2-lo, leaving your hubs locked for the next obstacle.
They're about $100 and are an easy installation by yourself. But, if
you decide you'd rather fix what you have and you figure out you need
replacements for some missing or worn out part, let me know. I may
still have the parts I removed when I installed my twin stick. Good
luck either way. I hope it's nothing more serious than that.
TrailMarker.
> high or low or 2.
The driver's side rod controls output to the rear drive shaft. When
it's fully extended, it's in high range. When it's fully inserted,
it's in low range. Between the two is neutral. The passenger's side
rod controls output to the front drive shaft in a likewise manner. It
sounds like your shifter isn't properly connected to your driver's
side rod, leaving it in neutral. There are some funny little pieces to
make the connections because the single shifter has to move the two
rods somewhat independently. For example - in 2-hi, it must engage the
rear in high range and leave the front in neutral. I'd recommend
considering a twin stick kit. It just gives you 2 shifters to control
the front and rear outputs yourself. All the parts are included, so it
doesn't matter if you've lost or worn something out. What I like
about it is that you can be offroad with your hubs locked in 2-lo.
When you need 4-lo, you move a shifter instead of getting out to lock
the hubs. When you're through the rough stuff, you move a shifter,
you're back in 2-lo, leaving your hubs locked for the next obstacle.
They're about $100 and are an easy installation by yourself. But, if
you decide you'd rather fix what you have and you figure out you need
replacements for some missing or worn out part, let me know. I may
still have the parts I removed when I installed my twin stick. Good
luck either way. I hope it's nothing more serious than that.
TrailMarker.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
I saw seven shift shafts by the sea shore with six sexy sheet slitters
sailing the seven seas!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FACA4.9DEF581@sympatico.ca...
> Check the front of the t-case first. You have a twin linkage there so
> you 'could' run a twin stick shifter. One of the pins/link rods
> controls front wheel or rear wheel drive, the other controls high or low
> or 2 WD.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> matthewf wrote:
> >
> > OK - there I was, driving along about 35mph on paved road. Heard
> > something pop like the tranny popped out of gear, and then there was
> > no forward motivation. rolled into a parking lot and determined that
> > I could move forward and reverse in 4-low - but not move at all in 4hi
> > or 2wd.
> >
> > This is with a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
> >
> > I was only a few blocks from home, so I drove home in 4lo - was able
> > to row through all 5 gears in 4lo smoothly like usual (so tranny is
> > good?)
> >
> > After some more testing, I find that I get no rear drive shaft action.
> > I can move forward and reverse in 4hi if I lock the front hubs.
> >
> > T-case right?
> > How bad does this sound? any chance it's linkage or do I need to go
> > into the t-case?
> > I appreciate any suggestions...
sailing the seven seas!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FACA4.9DEF581@sympatico.ca...
> Check the front of the t-case first. You have a twin linkage there so
> you 'could' run a twin stick shifter. One of the pins/link rods
> controls front wheel or rear wheel drive, the other controls high or low
> or 2 WD.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> matthewf wrote:
> >
> > OK - there I was, driving along about 35mph on paved road. Heard
> > something pop like the tranny popped out of gear, and then there was
> > no forward motivation. rolled into a parking lot and determined that
> > I could move forward and reverse in 4-low - but not move at all in 4hi
> > or 2wd.
> >
> > This is with a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
> >
> > I was only a few blocks from home, so I drove home in 4lo - was able
> > to row through all 5 gears in 4lo smoothly like usual (so tranny is
> > good?)
> >
> > After some more testing, I find that I get no rear drive shaft action.
> > I can move forward and reverse in 4hi if I lock the front hubs.
> >
> > T-case right?
> > How bad does this sound? any chance it's linkage or do I need to go
> > into the t-case?
> > I appreciate any suggestions...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
I saw seven shift shafts by the sea shore with six sexy sheet slitters
sailing the seven seas!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FACA4.9DEF581@sympatico.ca...
> Check the front of the t-case first. You have a twin linkage there so
> you 'could' run a twin stick shifter. One of the pins/link rods
> controls front wheel or rear wheel drive, the other controls high or low
> or 2 WD.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> matthewf wrote:
> >
> > OK - there I was, driving along about 35mph on paved road. Heard
> > something pop like the tranny popped out of gear, and then there was
> > no forward motivation. rolled into a parking lot and determined that
> > I could move forward and reverse in 4-low - but not move at all in 4hi
> > or 2wd.
> >
> > This is with a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
> >
> > I was only a few blocks from home, so I drove home in 4lo - was able
> > to row through all 5 gears in 4lo smoothly like usual (so tranny is
> > good?)
> >
> > After some more testing, I find that I get no rear drive shaft action.
> > I can move forward and reverse in 4hi if I lock the front hubs.
> >
> > T-case right?
> > How bad does this sound? any chance it's linkage or do I need to go
> > into the t-case?
> > I appreciate any suggestions...
sailing the seven seas!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FACA4.9DEF581@sympatico.ca...
> Check the front of the t-case first. You have a twin linkage there so
> you 'could' run a twin stick shifter. One of the pins/link rods
> controls front wheel or rear wheel drive, the other controls high or low
> or 2 WD.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> matthewf wrote:
> >
> > OK - there I was, driving along about 35mph on paved road. Heard
> > something pop like the tranny popped out of gear, and then there was
> > no forward motivation. rolled into a parking lot and determined that
> > I could move forward and reverse in 4-low - but not move at all in 4hi
> > or 2wd.
> >
> > This is with a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
> >
> > I was only a few blocks from home, so I drove home in 4lo - was able
> > to row through all 5 gears in 4lo smoothly like usual (so tranny is
> > good?)
> >
> > After some more testing, I find that I get no rear drive shaft action.
> > I can move forward and reverse in 4hi if I lock the front hubs.
> >
> > T-case right?
> > How bad does this sound? any chance it's linkage or do I need to go
> > into the t-case?
> > I appreciate any suggestions...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
I saw seven shift shafts by the sea shore with six sexy sheet slitters
sailing the seven seas!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FACA4.9DEF581@sympatico.ca...
> Check the front of the t-case first. You have a twin linkage there so
> you 'could' run a twin stick shifter. One of the pins/link rods
> controls front wheel or rear wheel drive, the other controls high or low
> or 2 WD.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> matthewf wrote:
> >
> > OK - there I was, driving along about 35mph on paved road. Heard
> > something pop like the tranny popped out of gear, and then there was
> > no forward motivation. rolled into a parking lot and determined that
> > I could move forward and reverse in 4-low - but not move at all in 4hi
> > or 2wd.
> >
> > This is with a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
> >
> > I was only a few blocks from home, so I drove home in 4lo - was able
> > to row through all 5 gears in 4lo smoothly like usual (so tranny is
> > good?)
> >
> > After some more testing, I find that I get no rear drive shaft action.
> > I can move forward and reverse in 4hi if I lock the front hubs.
> >
> > T-case right?
> > How bad does this sound? any chance it's linkage or do I need to go
> > into the t-case?
> > I appreciate any suggestions...
sailing the seven seas!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FACA4.9DEF581@sympatico.ca...
> Check the front of the t-case first. You have a twin linkage there so
> you 'could' run a twin stick shifter. One of the pins/link rods
> controls front wheel or rear wheel drive, the other controls high or low
> or 2 WD.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> matthewf wrote:
> >
> > OK - there I was, driving along about 35mph on paved road. Heard
> > something pop like the tranny popped out of gear, and then there was
> > no forward motivation. rolled into a parking lot and determined that
> > I could move forward and reverse in 4-low - but not move at all in 4hi
> > or 2wd.
> >
> > This is with a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
> >
> > I was only a few blocks from home, so I drove home in 4lo - was able
> > to row through all 5 gears in 4lo smoothly like usual (so tranny is
> > good?)
> >
> > After some more testing, I find that I get no rear drive shaft action.
> > I can move forward and reverse in 4hi if I lock the front hubs.
> >
> > T-case right?
> > How bad does this sound? any chance it's linkage or do I need to go
> > into the t-case?
> > I appreciate any suggestions...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
I saw seven shift shafts by the sea shore with six sexy sheet slitters
sailing the seven seas!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FACA4.9DEF581@sympatico.ca...
> Check the front of the t-case first. You have a twin linkage there so
> you 'could' run a twin stick shifter. One of the pins/link rods
> controls front wheel or rear wheel drive, the other controls high or low
> or 2 WD.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> matthewf wrote:
> >
> > OK - there I was, driving along about 35mph on paved road. Heard
> > something pop like the tranny popped out of gear, and then there was
> > no forward motivation. rolled into a parking lot and determined that
> > I could move forward and reverse in 4-low - but not move at all in 4hi
> > or 2wd.
> >
> > This is with a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
> >
> > I was only a few blocks from home, so I drove home in 4lo - was able
> > to row through all 5 gears in 4lo smoothly like usual (so tranny is
> > good?)
> >
> > After some more testing, I find that I get no rear drive shaft action.
> > I can move forward and reverse in 4hi if I lock the front hubs.
> >
> > T-case right?
> > How bad does this sound? any chance it's linkage or do I need to go
> > into the t-case?
> > I appreciate any suggestions...
sailing the seven seas!
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:408FACA4.9DEF581@sympatico.ca...
> Check the front of the t-case first. You have a twin linkage there so
> you 'could' run a twin stick shifter. One of the pins/link rods
> controls front wheel or rear wheel drive, the other controls high or low
> or 2 WD.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> matthewf wrote:
> >
> > OK - there I was, driving along about 35mph on paved road. Heard
> > something pop like the tranny popped out of gear, and then there was
> > no forward motivation. rolled into a parking lot and determined that
> > I could move forward and reverse in 4-low - but not move at all in 4hi
> > or 2wd.
> >
> > This is with a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
> >
> > I was only a few blocks from home, so I drove home in 4lo - was able
> > to row through all 5 gears in 4lo smoothly like usual (so tranny is
> > good?)
> >
> > After some more testing, I find that I get no rear drive shaft action.
> > I can move forward and reverse in 4hi if I lock the front hubs.
> >
> > T-case right?
> > How bad does this sound? any chance it's linkage or do I need to go
> > into the t-case?
> > I appreciate any suggestions...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: problem with transfer case
"Mark Burns" wrote in message
> I agree with Bill ------ that a setscrew has backed out of a shifter fork.
> If Bill is correct a setscrew will have backed out of a shifter fork and
> will most likely still be in the fork but loose.
Hi guys -
I'm back. I finally got around to dropping the skid plate and looking
in the T-case.
Yes, it has been quite a while since my original question...I've since
started a new job which took up my time and fortunately for me I have
another car to use.
So to refresh this is a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
Mark, Bill and MikeR where all exactly correct - the setscrew is still
in there but completely loose.
So does anybody happen to know what size that setscrew is? it is an
allen head screw right? and it will it be standard not metric?
second, is it worth trying back it all the way out and put some
lock-tight on the threads before re-installing? (in other words does
it come loose often?)
I have some 6inch long allen's that go into a nut-driver handle but
none the right size. I'm hoping to go pick up the right size if
anybody can point me in the right direction. They are nice and skinny
and can get up into there. Is there a better tool I could be using
for this?
Also, both manuals I have reference 'align the setscrew holes in the
fork and rod' - is there a certain position the shift lever should be
in while tightening?
Thank you very much for your previous (and future) answers -
Matthew
> I agree with Bill ------ that a setscrew has backed out of a shifter fork.
> If Bill is correct a setscrew will have backed out of a shifter fork and
> will most likely still be in the fork but loose.
Hi guys -
I'm back. I finally got around to dropping the skid plate and looking
in the T-case.
Yes, it has been quite a while since my original question...I've since
started a new job which took up my time and fortunately for me I have
another car to use.
So to refresh this is a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.
Mark, Bill and MikeR where all exactly correct - the setscrew is still
in there but completely loose.
So does anybody happen to know what size that setscrew is? it is an
allen head screw right? and it will it be standard not metric?
second, is it worth trying back it all the way out and put some
lock-tight on the threads before re-installing? (in other words does
it come loose often?)
I have some 6inch long allen's that go into a nut-driver handle but
none the right size. I'm hoping to go pick up the right size if
anybody can point me in the right direction. They are nice and skinny
and can get up into there. Is there a better tool I could be using
for this?
Also, both manuals I have reference 'align the setscrew holes in the
fork and rod' - is there a certain position the shift lever should be
in while tightening?
Thank you very much for your previous (and future) answers -
Matthew