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Re: Code Scanner (was: P0303 and Coolant)
In my opinion, no you do not need any more frills than you get for $65 to
$85. Actron seems to offer 4 models, with the two you are looking at as the mid-priced units. Of the two, I'd go with the higher end unit, but I'm hard pressed to tell you why. I think a code reader is an important addition to your tool chest. I know it would be a handy addition to mine. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:gwmah.3509$sf5.2940@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > What defines a _good_ code scanner? This is primary on my list this year. > I was thinking of the $65-85 one that pretty much reads and clears the > codes (the one at Autozone, an Actron model). Do I, as someone who can > fix/replace the simple stuff like brakes but is baffled by carb guts, need > the more advanced frills? > Tomes > > "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message > news:MZOdnZUMIYl6AvXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCdnZ2d@softcom.net. .. >> ....... Also, this is a good time to drop hints that you need a good code >> scanner, since Santa is generous this year. > > |
Re: Code Scanner (was: P0303 and Coolant)
In my opinion, no you do not need any more frills than you get for $65 to
$85. Actron seems to offer 4 models, with the two you are looking at as the mid-priced units. Of the two, I'd go with the higher end unit, but I'm hard pressed to tell you why. I think a code reader is an important addition to your tool chest. I know it would be a handy addition to mine. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:gwmah.3509$sf5.2940@newsread4.news.pas.earthl ink.net... > What defines a _good_ code scanner? This is primary on my list this year. > I was thinking of the $65-85 one that pretty much reads and clears the > codes (the one at Autozone, an Actron model). Do I, as someone who can > fix/replace the simple stuff like brakes but is baffled by carb guts, need > the more advanced frills? > Tomes > > "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message > news:MZOdnZUMIYl6AvXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCdnZ2d@softcom.net. .. >> ....... Also, this is a good time to drop hints that you need a good code >> scanner, since Santa is generous this year. > > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I've not heard (documented) bad things about the Bosch (Single) Platinum
plugs which is what I used in my 4 liter XJ and now my WJ and in Mark's 4.7 but then their technology is over 20 years old now. I've heard a lot about of negative stuff about the new high tech plugs (+2, +4, iridium, Splitfire) including Dave St Louis (Service Manager at Belleville Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep. A fair number of Jeepers dislike the platinums of any type although I don't know if that is partially guilt by association with the new high tech offerings. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:Obmah.3493$sf5.112@newsread4.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Do we know why this is? I just put in iridium/platinum plugs in to my > Sienna and got a couple more MPG over the original plugs. It is coming up > to the time where I will be replacing the plugs on my 2002 TJ. Do we > really just go with the standard old Champion coppers? Almost seems > cave-man-like today.... <grin>. > Tomes > > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message > news:9f157$4568bb04$422afc51$4598@FUSE.NET... >> ...... The Jeep engines seem to not like the new high tech sparkplugs so >> it would probably be best to avoid the +2, +4, & iridium plugs. > > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I've not heard (documented) bad things about the Bosch (Single) Platinum
plugs which is what I used in my 4 liter XJ and now my WJ and in Mark's 4.7 but then their technology is over 20 years old now. I've heard a lot about of negative stuff about the new high tech plugs (+2, +4, iridium, Splitfire) including Dave St Louis (Service Manager at Belleville Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep. A fair number of Jeepers dislike the platinums of any type although I don't know if that is partially guilt by association with the new high tech offerings. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:Obmah.3493$sf5.112@newsread4.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Do we know why this is? I just put in iridium/platinum plugs in to my > Sienna and got a couple more MPG over the original plugs. It is coming up > to the time where I will be replacing the plugs on my 2002 TJ. Do we > really just go with the standard old Champion coppers? Almost seems > cave-man-like today.... <grin>. > Tomes > > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message > news:9f157$4568bb04$422afc51$4598@FUSE.NET... >> ...... The Jeep engines seem to not like the new high tech sparkplugs so >> it would probably be best to avoid the +2, +4, & iridium plugs. > > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I've not heard (documented) bad things about the Bosch (Single) Platinum
plugs which is what I used in my 4 liter XJ and now my WJ and in Mark's 4.7 but then their technology is over 20 years old now. I've heard a lot about of negative stuff about the new high tech plugs (+2, +4, iridium, Splitfire) including Dave St Louis (Service Manager at Belleville Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep. A fair number of Jeepers dislike the platinums of any type although I don't know if that is partially guilt by association with the new high tech offerings. "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message news:Obmah.3493$sf5.112@newsread4.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > Do we know why this is? I just put in iridium/platinum plugs in to my > Sienna and got a couple more MPG over the original plugs. It is coming up > to the time where I will be replacing the plugs on my 2002 TJ. Do we > really just go with the standard old Champion coppers? Almost seems > cave-man-like today.... <grin>. > Tomes > > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message > news:9f157$4568bb04$422afc51$4598@FUSE.NET... >> ...... The Jeep engines seem to not like the new high tech sparkplugs so >> it would probably be best to avoid the +2, +4, & iridium plugs. > > |
Re: Code Scanner
There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center. You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew that is a mystery to me.) Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: Code Scanner
There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center. You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew that is a mystery to me.) Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: Code Scanner
There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center. You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew that is a mystery to me.) Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life between any of them. My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the choice of Cavemen everywhere. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life between any of them. My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the choice of Cavemen everywhere. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life between any of them. My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the choice of Cavemen everywhere. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
Outatime wrote:
> I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. > > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or > service life between any of them. > > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the > choice of Cavemen everywhere. Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite heavier like large club, work good. My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion. -- DougW |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
Outatime wrote:
> I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. > > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or > service life between any of them. > > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the > choice of Cavemen everywhere. Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite heavier like large club, work good. My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion. -- DougW |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
Outatime wrote:
> I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. > > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or > service life between any of them. > > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the > choice of Cavemen everywhere. Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite heavier like large club, work good. My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion. -- DougW |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga... > Outatime wrote: > > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he > > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the > > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he > > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. > > > > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of > > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or > > service life between any of them. > > > > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the > > choice of Cavemen everywhere. > > Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite > heavier like large club, work good. > > My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap > way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion. > Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85 Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to say "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design. Earle take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in car from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV? Earle -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga... > Outatime wrote: > > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he > > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the > > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he > > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. > > > > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of > > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or > > service life between any of them. > > > > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the > > choice of Cavemen everywhere. > > Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite > heavier like large club, work good. > > My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap > way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion. > Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85 Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to say "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design. Earle take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in car from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV? Earle -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga... > Outatime wrote: > > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he > > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the > > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he > > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. > > > > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of > > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or > > service life between any of them. > > > > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the > > choice of Cavemen everywhere. > > Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite > heavier like large club, work good. > > My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap > way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion. > Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85 Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to say "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design. Earle take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in car from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV? Earle -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: P0303 and Coolant
o i c
Outatime wrote: > philthy wrote: > > > how did u get the valves to float with the rev limiter in place???? > > The problem actually turned out to be a weak valve spring in an older GC > that hung open if it ran over 3,500 rpm. Referring to this as > 'overrevving' was a misnomer; as you mentioned, PCM's won't let you run > the engine beyond OEM-spec redline. It took a LONG time to figure this > one out though. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant
o i c
Outatime wrote: > philthy wrote: > > > how did u get the valves to float with the rev limiter in place???? > > The problem actually turned out to be a weak valve spring in an older GC > that hung open if it ran over 3,500 rpm. Referring to this as > 'overrevving' was a misnomer; as you mentioned, PCM's won't let you run > the engine beyond OEM-spec redline. It took a LONG time to figure this > one out though. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant
o i c
Outatime wrote: > philthy wrote: > > > how did u get the valves to float with the rev limiter in place???? > > The problem actually turned out to be a weak valve spring in an older GC > that hung open if it ran over 3,500 rpm. Referring to this as > 'overrevving' was a misnomer; as you mentioned, PCM's won't let you run > the engine beyond OEM-spec redline. It took a LONG time to figure this > one out though. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
Didn't Buick buy AC in ... something like 1908?
>> > Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85 > Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to > say > "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use > Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design. > Earle > take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in > car > from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV? > > Earle |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
Didn't Buick buy AC in ... something like 1908?
>> > Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85 > Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to > say > "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use > Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design. > Earle > take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in > car > from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV? > > Earle |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
Didn't Buick buy AC in ... something like 1908?
>> > Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85 > Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to > say > "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use > Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design. > Earle > take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in > car > from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV? > > Earle |
Re: Code Scanner (was: P0303 and Coolant)
go on ebay and watch wht you come up with
Tomes wrote: > What defines a _good_ code scanner? This is primary on my list this year. > I was thinking of the $65-85 one that pretty much reads and clears the codes > (the one at Autozone, an Actron model). Do I, as someone who can > fix/replace the simple stuff like brakes but is baffled by carb guts, need > the more advanced frills? > Tomes > > "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message > news:MZOdnZUMIYl6AvXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCdnZ2d@softcom.net. .. > > ....... Also, this is a good time to drop hints that you need a good code > > scanner, since Santa is generous this year. |
Re: Code Scanner (was: P0303 and Coolant)
go on ebay and watch wht you come up with
Tomes wrote: > What defines a _good_ code scanner? This is primary on my list this year. > I was thinking of the $65-85 one that pretty much reads and clears the codes > (the one at Autozone, an Actron model). Do I, as someone who can > fix/replace the simple stuff like brakes but is baffled by carb guts, need > the more advanced frills? > Tomes > > "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message > news:MZOdnZUMIYl6AvXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCdnZ2d@softcom.net. .. > > ....... Also, this is a good time to drop hints that you need a good code > > scanner, since Santa is generous this year. |
Re: Code Scanner (was: P0303 and Coolant)
go on ebay and watch wht you come up with
Tomes wrote: > What defines a _good_ code scanner? This is primary on my list this year. > I was thinking of the $65-85 one that pretty much reads and clears the codes > (the one at Autozone, an Actron model). Do I, as someone who can > fix/replace the simple stuff like brakes but is baffled by carb guts, need > the more advanced frills? > Tomes > > "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message > news:MZOdnZUMIYl6AvXYnZ2dnUVZ_uCdnZ2d@softcom.net. .. > > ....... Also, this is a good time to drop hints that you need a good code > > scanner, since Santa is generous this year. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
out of all the casr i work on for misfires, poor running i get, the bosch
platinum plugs are the one that fail the most do not use those if you want to do it twice billy ray wrote: > I've not heard (documented) bad things about the Bosch (Single) Platinum > plugs which is what I used in my 4 liter XJ and now my WJ and in Mark's 4.7 > but then their technology is over 20 years old now. > > I've heard a lot about of negative stuff about the new high tech plugs (+2, > +4, iridium, Splitfire) including Dave St Louis (Service Manager at > Belleville Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep. > > A fair number of Jeepers dislike the platinums of any type although I don't > know if that is partially guilt by association with the new high tech > offerings. > > "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message > news:Obmah.3493$sf5.112@newsread4.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > Do we know why this is? I just put in iridium/platinum plugs in to my > > Sienna and got a couple more MPG over the original plugs. It is coming up > > to the time where I will be replacing the plugs on my 2002 TJ. Do we > > really just go with the standard old Champion coppers? Almost seems > > cave-man-like today.... <grin>. > > Tomes > > > > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message > > news:9f157$4568bb04$422afc51$4598@FUSE.NET... > >> ...... The Jeep engines seem to not like the new high tech sparkplugs so > >> it would probably be best to avoid the +2, +4, & iridium plugs. > > > > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
out of all the casr i work on for misfires, poor running i get, the bosch
platinum plugs are the one that fail the most do not use those if you want to do it twice billy ray wrote: > I've not heard (documented) bad things about the Bosch (Single) Platinum > plugs which is what I used in my 4 liter XJ and now my WJ and in Mark's 4.7 > but then their technology is over 20 years old now. > > I've heard a lot about of negative stuff about the new high tech plugs (+2, > +4, iridium, Splitfire) including Dave St Louis (Service Manager at > Belleville Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep. > > A fair number of Jeepers dislike the platinums of any type although I don't > know if that is partially guilt by association with the new high tech > offerings. > > "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message > news:Obmah.3493$sf5.112@newsread4.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > Do we know why this is? I just put in iridium/platinum plugs in to my > > Sienna and got a couple more MPG over the original plugs. It is coming up > > to the time where I will be replacing the plugs on my 2002 TJ. Do we > > really just go with the standard old Champion coppers? Almost seems > > cave-man-like today.... <grin>. > > Tomes > > > > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message > > news:9f157$4568bb04$422afc51$4598@FUSE.NET... > >> ...... The Jeep engines seem to not like the new high tech sparkplugs so > >> it would probably be best to avoid the +2, +4, & iridium plugs. > > > > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
out of all the casr i work on for misfires, poor running i get, the bosch
platinum plugs are the one that fail the most do not use those if you want to do it twice billy ray wrote: > I've not heard (documented) bad things about the Bosch (Single) Platinum > plugs which is what I used in my 4 liter XJ and now my WJ and in Mark's 4.7 > but then their technology is over 20 years old now. > > I've heard a lot about of negative stuff about the new high tech plugs (+2, > +4, iridium, Splitfire) including Dave St Louis (Service Manager at > Belleville Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep. > > A fair number of Jeepers dislike the platinums of any type although I don't > know if that is partially guilt by association with the new high tech > offerings. > > "Tomes" <askme@here.net> wrote in message > news:Obmah.3493$sf5.112@newsread4.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > > Do we know why this is? I just put in iridium/platinum plugs in to my > > Sienna and got a couple more MPG over the original plugs. It is coming up > > to the time where I will be replacing the plugs on my 2002 TJ. Do we > > really just go with the standard old Champion coppers? Almost seems > > cave-man-like today.... <grin>. > > Tomes > > > > "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message > > news:9f157$4568bb04$422afc51$4598@FUSE.NET... > >> ...... The Jeep engines seem to not like the new high tech sparkplugs so > >> it would probably be best to avoid the +2, +4, & iridium plugs. > > > > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
there is some truth to that and i used to cut the electroid off and gap
them flat acroos the top to expose the spark for a open flame front it does work Outatime wrote: > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. > > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles. > I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life > between any of them. > > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the > choice of Cavemen everywhere. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
there is some truth to that and i used to cut the electroid off and gap
them flat acroos the top to expose the spark for a open flame front it does work Outatime wrote: > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. > > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles. > I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life > between any of them. > > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the > choice of Cavemen everywhere. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
there is some truth to that and i used to cut the electroid off and gap
them flat acroos the top to expose the spark for a open flame front it does work Outatime wrote: > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. > > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles. > I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life > between any of them. > > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the > choice of Cavemen everywhere. |
Re: Code Scanner
OK, thanks so far to you and Jeff, much appreciated, and I welcome others'
opinions on this as well. Looking at their website I am guessing I was looking at the 9125, but I need to go back and look again. It was the lowest end model that was there. So, Outa, if I do get (ask Santa for) the 9145, the added benefits will allow me to go through all the stuff and find things that are impending. It also sounds like I will be in the garage every spare minute (is this a good or a bad thing...) with the toy, I mean tool. this could be good for only for my 2002 TJ (77K miles), but for the aging 98 Sienna (187K miles). I am all interested in this now because for the first time I went to the Autozone and had them read the codes on the CEL-lit Sienna and I had a list of cylinder malfunctions that I fixed with new wires and those Bosch Platinum Ir Fusion (they were on sale) plugs (it is not easy to get at those rear plugs....). Saved a lot of cash by not having to bring it in. Now with the Sienna at the point where more stuff will be popping up, your post below is telling me that hunting through all that other stuff would be prudent and likely save me more money by heading things off. Sooner or later this applies to the TJ too. Am I looking at this right or am I being too optimistic in my limited abilities? Tomes "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message news:VJidnYDema-vm_fYnZ2dnUVZ_q6dnZ2d@softcom.net... > There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER. > > The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do > is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. > > For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about > idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel > trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor, > RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular > rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure > everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center. > > You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric > information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is > valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if > there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at > a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. > > I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is > more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped > that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the > 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an > oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the > EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It > actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew > that is a mystery to me.) > > Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. > > Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products > will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset > button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a > seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: Code Scanner
OK, thanks so far to you and Jeff, much appreciated, and I welcome others'
opinions on this as well. Looking at their website I am guessing I was looking at the 9125, but I need to go back and look again. It was the lowest end model that was there. So, Outa, if I do get (ask Santa for) the 9145, the added benefits will allow me to go through all the stuff and find things that are impending. It also sounds like I will be in the garage every spare minute (is this a good or a bad thing...) with the toy, I mean tool. this could be good for only for my 2002 TJ (77K miles), but for the aging 98 Sienna (187K miles). I am all interested in this now because for the first time I went to the Autozone and had them read the codes on the CEL-lit Sienna and I had a list of cylinder malfunctions that I fixed with new wires and those Bosch Platinum Ir Fusion (they were on sale) plugs (it is not easy to get at those rear plugs....). Saved a lot of cash by not having to bring it in. Now with the Sienna at the point where more stuff will be popping up, your post below is telling me that hunting through all that other stuff would be prudent and likely save me more money by heading things off. Sooner or later this applies to the TJ too. Am I looking at this right or am I being too optimistic in my limited abilities? Tomes "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message news:VJidnYDema-vm_fYnZ2dnUVZ_q6dnZ2d@softcom.net... > There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER. > > The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do > is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. > > For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about > idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel > trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor, > RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular > rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure > everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center. > > You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric > information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is > valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if > there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at > a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. > > I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is > more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped > that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the > 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an > oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the > EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It > actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew > that is a mystery to me.) > > Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. > > Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products > will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset > button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a > seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: Code Scanner
OK, thanks so far to you and Jeff, much appreciated, and I welcome others'
opinions on this as well. Looking at their website I am guessing I was looking at the 9125, but I need to go back and look again. It was the lowest end model that was there. So, Outa, if I do get (ask Santa for) the 9145, the added benefits will allow me to go through all the stuff and find things that are impending. It also sounds like I will be in the garage every spare minute (is this a good or a bad thing...) with the toy, I mean tool. this could be good for only for my 2002 TJ (77K miles), but for the aging 98 Sienna (187K miles). I am all interested in this now because for the first time I went to the Autozone and had them read the codes on the CEL-lit Sienna and I had a list of cylinder malfunctions that I fixed with new wires and those Bosch Platinum Ir Fusion (they were on sale) plugs (it is not easy to get at those rear plugs....). Saved a lot of cash by not having to bring it in. Now with the Sienna at the point where more stuff will be popping up, your post below is telling me that hunting through all that other stuff would be prudent and likely save me more money by heading things off. Sooner or later this applies to the TJ too. Am I looking at this right or am I being too optimistic in my limited abilities? Tomes "Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message news:VJidnYDema-vm_fYnZ2dnUVZ_q6dnZ2d@softcom.net... > There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER. > > The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do > is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. > > For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about > idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel > trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor, > RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular > rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure > everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center. > > You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric > information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is > valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if > there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at > a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. > > I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is > more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped > that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the > 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an > oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the > EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It > actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew > that is a mystery to me.) > > Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. > > Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products > will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset > button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a > seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
So it is the old venerable plugs for the old venerable straight 6. How
about that. Tomes "Earle Horton" <el_anglo_burgues@usa.com> wrote in message news:456a0dd1$0$21205$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message > news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga... >> Outatime wrote: >> > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he >> > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the >> > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he >> > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. >> > >> > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of >> > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or >> > service life between any of them. >> > >> > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the >> > choice of Cavemen everywhere. >> >> Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite >> heavier like large club, work good. >> >> My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap >> way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion. >> > Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85 > Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to > say > "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use > Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design. > Earle > take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in > car > from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV? > > Earle > > > > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
So it is the old venerable plugs for the old venerable straight 6. How
about that. Tomes "Earle Horton" <el_anglo_burgues@usa.com> wrote in message news:456a0dd1$0$21205$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message > news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga... >> Outatime wrote: >> > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he >> > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the >> > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he >> > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. >> > >> > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of >> > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or >> > service life between any of them. >> > >> > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the >> > choice of Cavemen everywhere. >> >> Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite >> heavier like large club, work good. >> >> My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap >> way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion. >> > Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85 > Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to > say > "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use > Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design. > Earle > take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in > car > from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV? > > Earle > > > > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > |
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
So it is the old venerable plugs for the old venerable straight 6. How
about that. Tomes "Earle Horton" <el_anglo_burgues@usa.com> wrote in message news:456a0dd1$0$21205$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . > "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message > news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga... >> Outatime wrote: >> > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he >> > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the >> > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he >> > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long. >> > >> > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of >> > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or >> > service life between any of them. >> > >> > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the >> > choice of Cavemen everywhere. >> >> Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite >> heavier like large club, work good. >> >> My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap >> way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion. >> > Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85 > Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to > say > "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use > Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design. > Earle > take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in > car > from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV? > > Earle > > > > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > |
Re: Code Scanner
On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 13:22:38 -0800, Outatime <WhoKnows@here.com>
wrote: >There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER. > >The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do >is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. > >For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information >about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, >fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the >sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the >ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to >make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing >center. The readiness check doesn't test any sensors. It only shows you whether the non continuous monitors have run. > >You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other >esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor >data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell >if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which >one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. > >I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This >is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily >recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, >resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the >engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I >removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem >afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how >the computer knew that is a mystery to me.) > >Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. > >Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products >will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset >button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a >seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
Re: Code Scanner
On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 13:22:38 -0800, Outatime <WhoKnows@here.com>
wrote: >There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER. > >The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do >is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine. > >For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information >about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, >fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the >sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the >ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to >make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing >center. The readiness check doesn't test any sensors. It only shows you whether the non continuous monitors have run. > >You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other >esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor >data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell >if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which >one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual. > >I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This >is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily >recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, >resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the >engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I >removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem >afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how >the computer knew that is a mystery to me.) > >Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment. > >Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products >will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset >button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a >seperate code reader if this will suffice. |
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