Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

Friday, April 30
On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
overheating too much to ignore.

My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm

Tuesday, May 4.
Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
pot on stove acts just like the new one.

Wednesday, May 5.
Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
hydrometer.

Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.

Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
instead of dumping it on my shoes.

Thursday, May 6.
Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.

Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.

Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.

Flushed with water for a while.

Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.

Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.

Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
overheats.

(H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.

Friday, May 7.
Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
overheats.

(H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
have a blown head gasket.
Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
1 158 158
2 173 173
3 158 160
4 165 163
5 163 163
6 150 156

We concluded no blown head gasket.

Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
block.

Re: Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

"David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
news:41267525.459900053@news.west.earthlink.net...
> Friday, April 30
> On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
> overheating too much to ignore.
>
> My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
> voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
> http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
>
> Tuesday, May 4.
> Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
> first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
> pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
> thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
> pot on stove acts just like the new one.
>
> Wednesday, May 5.
> Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
> gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
> heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
> the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
> flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
> pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
> hydrometer.
>
> Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
> intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
> supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.
>
> Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
> second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
> instead of dumping it on my shoes.
>
> Thursday, May 6.
> Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
> the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
> the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
> there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
> comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.
>
> Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
> heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
> my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
> they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
> will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
> bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
> either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.
>
> Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
> than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.
>
> Flushed with water for a while.
>
> Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
> hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.
>
> Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
> shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
> heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
> closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
> passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
> I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.
>
> Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
> compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
> putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
> cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
> proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
> Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.
>
> Friday, May 7.
> Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
> old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
> New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
> have a blown head gasket.
> Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
> 1 158 158
> 2 173 173
> 3 158 160
> 4 165 163
> 5 163 163
> 6 150 156
>
> We concluded no blown head gasket.
>
> Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
> passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
> So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
> if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
> it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
> block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
> block.
>

Sounds like everything is in order. Normally if your flush cleans out the
heater dcore, the rest of the system will be clean as well. The heater core
is the most prone to clogging of any of the parts in your cooling system. If
you have a clutch controlled fan, I would replace that. These have a life
expectency and your CJ is at least 18 years old. It seems to be a common
problem with Jeeps from what I've read on this newsgroup.

Chris

Re: Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

"David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
news:41267525.459900053@news.west.earthlink.net...
> Friday, April 30
> On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
> overheating too much to ignore.
>
> My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
> voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
> http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
>
> Tuesday, May 4.
> Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
> first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
> pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
> thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
> pot on stove acts just like the new one.
>
> Wednesday, May 5.
> Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
> gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
> heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
> the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
> flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
> pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
> hydrometer.
>
> Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
> intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
> supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.
>
> Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
> second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
> instead of dumping it on my shoes.
>
> Thursday, May 6.
> Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
> the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
> the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
> there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
> comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.
>
> Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
> heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
> my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
> they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
> will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
> bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
> either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.
>
> Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
> than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.
>
> Flushed with water for a while.
>
> Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
> hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.
>
> Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
> shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
> heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
> closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
> passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
> I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.
>
> Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
> compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
> putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
> cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
> proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
> Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.
>
> Friday, May 7.
> Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
> old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
> New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
> have a blown head gasket.
> Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
> 1 158 158
> 2 173 173
> 3 158 160
> 4 165 163
> 5 163 163
> 6 150 156
>
> We concluded no blown head gasket.
>
> Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
> passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
> So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
> if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
> it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
> block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
> block.
>

Sounds like everything is in order. Normally if your flush cleans out the
heater dcore, the rest of the system will be clean as well. The heater core
is the most prone to clogging of any of the parts in your cooling system. If
you have a clutch controlled fan, I would replace that. These have a life
expectency and your CJ is at least 18 years old. It seems to be a common
problem with Jeeps from what I've read on this newsgroup.

Chris

Re: Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

"David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
news:41267525.459900053@news.west.earthlink.net...
> Friday, April 30
> On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
> overheating too much to ignore.
>
> My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
> voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
> http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
>
> Tuesday, May 4.
> Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
> first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
> pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
> thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
> pot on stove acts just like the new one.
>
> Wednesday, May 5.
> Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
> gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
> heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
> the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
> flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
> pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
> hydrometer.
>
> Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
> intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
> supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.
>
> Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
> second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
> instead of dumping it on my shoes.
>
> Thursday, May 6.
> Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
> the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
> the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
> there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
> comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.
>
> Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
> heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
> my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
> they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
> will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
> bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
> either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.
>
> Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
> than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.
>
> Flushed with water for a while.
>
> Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
> hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.
>
> Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
> shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
> heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
> closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
> passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
> I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.
>
> Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
> compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
> putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
> cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
> proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
> Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.
>
> Friday, May 7.
> Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
> old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
> New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
> have a blown head gasket.
> Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
> 1 158 158
> 2 173 173
> 3 158 160
> 4 165 163
> 5 163 163
> 6 150 156
>
> We concluded no blown head gasket.
>
> Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
> passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
> So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
> if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
> it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
> block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
> block.
>

Sounds like everything is in order. Normally if your flush cleans out the
heater dcore, the rest of the system will be clean as well. The heater core
is the most prone to clogging of any of the parts in your cooling system. If
you have a clutch controlled fan, I would replace that. These have a life
expectency and your CJ is at least 18 years old. It seems to be a common
problem with Jeeps from what I've read on this newsgroup.

Chris

Re: Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

"David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
news:41267525.459900053@news.west.earthlink.net...
> Friday, April 30
> On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
> overheating too much to ignore.
>
> My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
> voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
> http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
>
> Tuesday, May 4.
> Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
> first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
> pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
> thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
> pot on stove acts just like the new one.
>
> Wednesday, May 5.
> Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
> gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
> heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
> the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
> flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
> pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
> hydrometer.
>
> Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
> intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
> supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.
>
> Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
> second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
> instead of dumping it on my shoes.
>
> Thursday, May 6.
> Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
> the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
> the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
> there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
> comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.
>
> Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
> heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
> my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
> they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
> will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
> bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
> either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.
>
> Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
> than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.
>
> Flushed with water for a while.
>
> Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
> hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.
>
> Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
> shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
> heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
> closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
> passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
> I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.
>
> Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
> compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
> putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
> cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
> proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
> Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.
>
> Friday, May 7.
> Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
> old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
> New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
> have a blown head gasket.
> Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
> 1 158 158
> 2 173 173
> 3 158 160
> 4 165 163
> 5 163 163
> 6 150 156
>
> We concluded no blown head gasket.
>
> Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
> passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
> So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
> if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
> it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
> block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
> block.
>

Sounds like everything is in order. Normally if your flush cleans out the
heater dcore, the rest of the system will be clean as well. The heater core
is the most prone to clogging of any of the parts in your cooling system. If
you have a clutch controlled fan, I would replace that. These have a life
expectency and your CJ is at least 18 years old. It seems to be a common
problem with Jeeps from what I've read on this newsgroup.

Chris

Re: Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

what shape is the radiator in????

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:OJenc.42087$u_4.36092@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
> news:41267525.459900053@news.west.earthlink.net...
> > Friday, April 30
> > On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
> > overheating too much to ignore.
> >
> > My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
> > voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
> > http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
> >
> > Tuesday, May 4.
> > Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
> > first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
> > pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
> > thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
> > pot on stove acts just like the new one.
> >
> > Wednesday, May 5.
> > Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
> > gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
> > heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
> > the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
> > flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
> > pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
> > hydrometer.
> >
> > Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
> > intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
> > supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.
> >
> > Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
> > second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
> > instead of dumping it on my shoes.
> >
> > Thursday, May 6.
> > Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
> > the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
> > the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
> > there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
> > comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.
> >
> > Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
> > heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
> > my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
> > they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
> > will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
> > bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
> > either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.
> >
> > Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
> > than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.
> >
> > Flushed with water for a while.
> >
> > Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
> > hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.
> >
> > Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
> > shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
> > heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
> > closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
> > passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
> > I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.
> >
> > Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
> > compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
> > putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
> > overheats.
> >
> > (H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
> > cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
> > proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
> > Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.
> >
> > Friday, May 7.
> > Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
> > old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
> > New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
> > overheats.
> >
> > (H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
> > have a blown head gasket.
> > Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
> > 1 158 158
> > 2 173 173
> > 3 158 160
> > 4 165 163
> > 5 163 163
> > 6 150 156
> >
> > We concluded no blown head gasket.
> >
> > Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
> > passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
> > So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
> > if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
> > it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
> > block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
> > block.
> >
>
> Sounds like everything is in order. Normally if your flush cleans out the
> heater dcore, the rest of the system will be clean as well. The heater
core
> is the most prone to clogging of any of the parts in your cooling system.
If
> you have a clutch controlled fan, I would replace that. These have a life
> expectency and your CJ is at least 18 years old. It seems to be a common
> problem with Jeeps from what I've read on this newsgroup.
>
> Chris
>
>

Re: Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

what shape is the radiator in????

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:OJenc.42087$u_4.36092@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
> news:41267525.459900053@news.west.earthlink.net...
> > Friday, April 30
> > On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
> > overheating too much to ignore.
> >
> > My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
> > voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
> > http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
> >
> > Tuesday, May 4.
> > Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
> > first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
> > pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
> > thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
> > pot on stove acts just like the new one.
> >
> > Wednesday, May 5.
> > Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
> > gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
> > heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
> > the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
> > flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
> > pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
> > hydrometer.
> >
> > Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
> > intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
> > supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.
> >
> > Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
> > second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
> > instead of dumping it on my shoes.
> >
> > Thursday, May 6.
> > Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
> > the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
> > the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
> > there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
> > comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.
> >
> > Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
> > heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
> > my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
> > they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
> > will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
> > bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
> > either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.
> >
> > Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
> > than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.
> >
> > Flushed with water for a while.
> >
> > Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
> > hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.
> >
> > Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
> > shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
> > heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
> > closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
> > passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
> > I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.
> >
> > Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
> > compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
> > putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
> > overheats.
> >
> > (H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
> > cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
> > proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
> > Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.
> >
> > Friday, May 7.
> > Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
> > old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
> > New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
> > overheats.
> >
> > (H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
> > have a blown head gasket.
> > Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
> > 1 158 158
> > 2 173 173
> > 3 158 160
> > 4 165 163
> > 5 163 163
> > 6 150 156
> >
> > We concluded no blown head gasket.
> >
> > Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
> > passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
> > So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
> > if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
> > it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
> > block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
> > block.
> >
>
> Sounds like everything is in order. Normally if your flush cleans out the
> heater dcore, the rest of the system will be clean as well. The heater
core
> is the most prone to clogging of any of the parts in your cooling system.
If
> you have a clutch controlled fan, I would replace that. These have a life
> expectency and your CJ is at least 18 years old. It seems to be a common
> problem with Jeeps from what I've read on this newsgroup.
>
> Chris
>
>

Re: Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

what shape is the radiator in????

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:OJenc.42087$u_4.36092@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
> news:41267525.459900053@news.west.earthlink.net...
> > Friday, April 30
> > On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
> > overheating too much to ignore.
> >
> > My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
> > voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
> > http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
> >
> > Tuesday, May 4.
> > Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
> > first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
> > pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
> > thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
> > pot on stove acts just like the new one.
> >
> > Wednesday, May 5.
> > Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
> > gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
> > heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
> > the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
> > flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
> > pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
> > hydrometer.
> >
> > Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
> > intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
> > supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.
> >
> > Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
> > second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
> > instead of dumping it on my shoes.
> >
> > Thursday, May 6.
> > Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
> > the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
> > the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
> > there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
> > comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.
> >
> > Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
> > heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
> > my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
> > they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
> > will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
> > bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
> > either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.
> >
> > Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
> > than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.
> >
> > Flushed with water for a while.
> >
> > Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
> > hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.
> >
> > Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
> > shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
> > heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
> > closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
> > passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
> > I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.
> >
> > Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
> > compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
> > putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
> > overheats.
> >
> > (H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
> > cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
> > proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
> > Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.
> >
> > Friday, May 7.
> > Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
> > old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
> > New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
> > overheats.
> >
> > (H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
> > have a blown head gasket.
> > Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
> > 1 158 158
> > 2 173 173
> > 3 158 160
> > 4 165 163
> > 5 163 163
> > 6 150 156
> >
> > We concluded no blown head gasket.
> >
> > Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
> > passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
> > So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
> > if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
> > it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
> > block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
> > block.
> >
>
> Sounds like everything is in order. Normally if your flush cleans out the
> heater dcore, the rest of the system will be clean as well. The heater
core
> is the most prone to clogging of any of the parts in your cooling system.
If
> you have a clutch controlled fan, I would replace that. These have a life
> expectency and your CJ is at least 18 years old. It seems to be a common
> problem with Jeeps from what I've read on this newsgroup.
>
> Chris
>
>

Re: Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

what shape is the radiator in????

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:OJenc.42087$u_4.36092@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
> news:41267525.459900053@news.west.earthlink.net...
> > Friday, April 30
> > On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
> > overheating too much to ignore.
> >
> > My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
> > voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
> > http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
> >
> > Tuesday, May 4.
> > Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
> > first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
> > pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
> > thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
> > pot on stove acts just like the new one.
> >
> > Wednesday, May 5.
> > Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
> > gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
> > heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
> > the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
> > flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
> > pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
> > hydrometer.
> >
> > Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
> > intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
> > supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.
> >
> > Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
> > second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
> > instead of dumping it on my shoes.
> >
> > Thursday, May 6.
> > Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
> > the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
> > the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
> > there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
> > comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.
> >
> > Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
> > heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
> > my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
> > they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
> > will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
> > bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
> > either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.
> >
> > Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
> > than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.
> >
> > Flushed with water for a while.
> >
> > Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
> > hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.
> >
> > Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
> > shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
> > heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
> > closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
> > passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
> > I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.
> >
> > Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
> > compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
> > putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
> > overheats.
> >
> > (H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
> > cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
> > proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
> > Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.
> >
> > Friday, May 7.
> > Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
> > old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
> > New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
> > overheats.
> >
> > (H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
> > have a blown head gasket.
> > Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
> > 1 158 158
> > 2 173 173
> > 3 158 160
> > 4 165 163
> > 5 163 163
> > 6 150 156
> >
> > We concluded no blown head gasket.
> >
> > Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
> > passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
> > So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
> > if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
> > it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
> > block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
> > block.
> >
>
> Sounds like everything is in order. Normally if your flush cleans out the
> heater dcore, the rest of the system will be clean as well. The heater
core
> is the most prone to clogging of any of the parts in your cooling system.
If
> you have a clutch controlled fan, I would replace that. These have a life
> expectency and your CJ is at least 18 years old. It seems to be a common
> problem with Jeeps from what I've read on this newsgroup.
>
> Chris
>
>

Re: Overheating CJ7, the story so far
 

Rather than go any further flushing the block, it might be a good time to
pull the radioatopr and have it tanked, it the coolant was that badly
contaminated I'll bet it's completely clogged with crap.
"David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
news:41267525.459900053@news.west.earthlink.net...
> Friday, April 30
> On trip to Irvine, it became apparent to me that my Jeep engine was
> overheating too much to ignore.
>
> My temperature gauge has been dead for years, because of a failed
> voltage regulator in the fuel gauge that supplies both of them.
> http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/Gauges.htm
>
> Tuesday, May 4.
> Whereas I already had a spare thermostat ready to go, that became the
> first thing to attack. Before starting, checked the new thermostat in a
> pot of boiling water on the stove; it opens as expected. Pulled old
> thermostat, put in new one. Jeep still overheats. Old thermostat in
> pot on stove acts just like the new one.
>
> Wednesday, May 5.
> Went to Pep Boys, bought a bunch of stuff. A nice mechanical water temp
> gauge. Prestone flush kit, consisting of tee fitting that goes in the
> heater hose for hooking up to garden hose, and a cheesy tube to divert
> the overflow a couple of inches away in a chosen direction. Bottle of
> flush chemical, label says it has sodium citrate in it. Bottle of water
> pump lubricant and three bottles of antifreeze. Cheesy Prestone
> hydrometer.
>
> Installed the temp gauge in a fitting in the water passages in the
> intake manifold that, for some odd reason, I believed was where it was
> supposed to go. Readings very squirrely.
>
> Modified the Prestone overflow tube by adding a hose fitting, so with a
> second garden hose I can route the overflow someplace inoffensive
> instead of dumping it on my shoes.
>
> Thursday, May 6.
> Figured out that I had hooked up the new gauge wrong. The fitting on
> the manifold is the wrong place. The right place to connect it is on
> the block like God intended it. The gauge sensor is to big to fit
> there. Too bad, and it was such a great fit in the wrong place. Out it
> comes, and again I have no temperature gauge.
>
> Installed Prestone flush kit. Prestone says to put the tee in the upper
> heater hose, where it comes out of the top of the engine. Problem is,
> my heater hose connects on the radiator side of the thermostat, while
> they assume it connects on the engine side. If I connect it on top, I
> will be flushing nothing but the top radiator tank. I connect it in the
> bottom heater hose. That way, the water at least has to go through
> either the heater core or the radiator core to get out.
>
> Drained the radiator. Contents looking like swamp water, more brown
> than green. Hydrometer says there's not much antifreeze in it.
>
> Flushed with water for a while.
>
> Closed it up, added the flush chemical. Drove around the block until
> hot, then let it sit until cool. Drained.
>
> Flushed with water again. Discovered that by squeezing the heater hose
> shut with vice grip pliers I could make sure the water went both ways,
> heater and radiator. Good. Unfortunately, as the thermostat was
> closed, I suspect not much flushing happened in the block water
> passages. I guess a fair amount of rust and/or sludge has come out. but
> I don't know what to compare against. Water coming out is clear.
>
> Filled with good antifreeze and water pump lubricant. The passenger
> compartment heater, which has been almost useless for years, is now
> putting out heat, so at least I did that much good. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) relates the story of a vehicle having the same sort of problem,
> cured by replacing an old tired radiator cap with one that hold the
> proper pressure. (H) and I make a late night shopping run to Pep
> Boys for a radiator cap and the Despot for some water fittings.
>
> Friday, May 7.
> Hooked up pressure gauge to the Prestone flush port. On a test drive,
> old radiator cap blows off at 10 PSI. Installed new radiator cap.
> New radiator cap blows off at 16 PSI, matching spec. Jeep still
> overheats.
>
> (H) finally talks me in to doing the compression check, to see if I
> have a blown head gasket.
> Cyl PSI PSI (each cylinder checked twice.)
> 1 158 158
> 2 173 173
> 3 158 160
> 4 165 163
> 5 163 163
> 6 150 156
>
> We concluded no blown head gasket.
>
> Talked to (D). He believes I need more flushing of the block water
> passages. And what else is there to consider? That and the water pump.
> So, I thing the water pump has to come off for inspection at least, and
> if it's off then maybe it is a dumb idea to not put a new one on even if
> it looks good. When it is off, that would be the time to flush the
> block. I don't know yet what kind of rig up I can use to flush the
> block.
>