OT - Working on the minivan
 

Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding around on
the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She said that power
loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually lost power but she
still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had to bail out in the
street. She described the motor as lagging in power, and missing as it was
going down.

I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a Mazda
MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but the coil and
igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off.

The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector, the
pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test this device
with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? The wires that
go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for
all the world like a huge transistor.

The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another device
that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one leg grounded to
the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go to a connector. All
three of thest parts appear to be interconnected; I say this because of the
shared wire colors, the wires actually all go into a loom, then come out
again on another connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really are
the same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out.

My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test the
coil?

I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand stuff more
complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks.

Re: OT - Working on the minivan
 

Hmmm, did you check the gas ?? :-) Did she just happen to have filled it
up ???
See if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail first, then look for spark
by pulling one plug and setting it against the engine. I would do that
first before digging into the electronics.
I would really check the gas though, ever since I got my 98XJ I have an
innate distrust of fuel gauges.. I've considerd mounting mine face
forward on the front corner post and let it do 'jeep waves' for me.


"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in
news:vhh3765p9qen3b@corp.supernews.com:

> Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding
> around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She
> said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually
> lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had
> to bail out in the street. She described the motor as lagging in
> power, and missing as it was going down.
>
> I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a
> Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but
> the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off.
>
> The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector,
> the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test
> this device with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or
> not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil
> and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge transistor.
>
> The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another
> device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one
> leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go
> to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be interconnected;
> I say this because of the shared wire colors, the wires actually all
> go into a loom, then come out again on another connector. It is
> difficult to tell if the wires really are the same, but a few test
> with my multimeter will get this sorted out.
>
> My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test
> the coil?
>
> I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand
> stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks.
>
>
>

Re: OT - Working on the minivan
 

What year is the van? If it's newer than 96 (or maybe it's 98) you can get a
code at any parts store. Have them hook up the machine and print the code
for you.

--
HomeBrewer

http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
www.rcparkflyers.com
Remove the xxx to reply!



"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
news:vhh3765p9qen3b@corp.supernews.com...
> Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding around
on
> the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She said that power
> loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually lost power but she
> still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had to bail out in the
> street. She described the motor as lagging in power, and missing as it was
> going down.
>
> I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a Mazda
> MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but the coil
and
> igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off.
>
> The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector, the
> pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test this
device
> with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? The wires
that
> go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for
> all the world like a huge transistor.
>
> The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another
device
> that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one leg grounded
to
> the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go to a connector. All
> three of thest parts appear to be interconnected; I say this because of
the
> shared wire colors, the wires actually all go into a loom, then come out
> again on another connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really
are
> the same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out.
>
> My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test the
> coil?
>
> I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand stuff
more
> complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks.
>
>

Re: OT - Working on the minivan
 

There is pressure, and very little return, during engine start. There is no
spark.




"Rich Pierson" <fist@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:Xns93BCD6D481C57fistptdnet@204.186.201.17...
> Hmmm, did you check the gas ?? :-) Did she just happen to have filled it
> up ???
> See if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail first, then look for spark
> by pulling one plug and setting it against the engine. I would do that
> first before digging into the electronics.
> I would really check the gas though, ever since I got my 98XJ I have an
> innate distrust of fuel gauges.. I've considerd mounting mine face
> forward on the front corner post and let it do 'jeep waves' for me.
>
>
> "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in
> news:vhh3765p9qen3b@corp.supernews.com:
>
> > Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding
> > around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She
> > said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually
> > lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had
> > to bail out in the street. She described the motor as lagging in
> > power, and missing as it was going down.
> >
> > I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a
> > Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but
> > the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off.
> >
> > The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector,
> > the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test
> > this device with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or
> > not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil
> > and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge transistor.
> >
> > The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another
> > device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one
> > leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go
> > to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be interconnected;
> > I say this because of the shared wire colors, the wires actually all
> > go into a loom, then come out again on another connector. It is
> > difficult to tell if the wires really are the same, but a few test
> > with my multimeter will get this sorted out.
> >
> > My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test
> > the coil?
> >
> > I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand
> > stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks.
> >
> >
> >
>

Re: OT - Working on the minivan
 

I have a Snap-On (costs a little more than $150.00)
If you live near Yuba City, come on by & do it for free here......

--
Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
carlo.jr@comcast.net
'98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
O|||||||O
'92 Explorer '65 Mustang


"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
news:vhimug2mcoh352@corp.supernews.com...
> It's a '93, and in California they can't do that check anymore. The parts
> store I go to said the mechanics protested having a consumer have the
> knowledge for free that is takes a $150 gadget to suck out.
>
>
>
> "HomeBrewer" <t3e871xxx@earthlink.com> wrote in message
> news:bfa8r5$cq5ht$1@ID-197365.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > What year is the van? If it's newer than 96 (or maybe it's 98) you can
get
> a
> > code at any parts store. Have them hook up the machine and print the
code
> > for you.
> >
> > --
> > HomeBrewer
> >
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
> > www.rcparkflyers.com
> > Remove the xxx to reply!
> >
> >
> >
> > "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in message
> > news:vhh3765p9qen3b@corp.supernews.com...
> > > Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding
around
> > on
> > > the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She said that
> power
> > > loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually lost power but
she
> > > still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had to bail out in the
> > > street. She described the motor as lagging in power, and missing as it
> was
> > > going down.
> > >
> > > I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a
Mazda
> > > MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but the
coil
> > and
> > > igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off.
> > >
> > > The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector,
> the
> > > pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test this
> > device
> > > with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? The wires
> > that
> > > go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil and a gizmo that looks
> for
> > > all the world like a huge transistor.
> > >
> > > The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another
> > device
> > > that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one leg
> grounded
> > to
> > > the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go to a connector.
> All
> > > three of thest parts appear to be interconnected; I say this because
of
> > the
> > > shared wire colors, the wires actually all go into a loom, then come
out
> > > again on another connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires
really
> > are
> > > the same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out.
> > >
> > > My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test
the
> > > coil?
> > >
> > > I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand
stuff
> > more
> > > complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Re: OT - Working on the minivan
 

Our 87YJ died like that a couple of weeks ago, I shot gunned it with a
new cap, rotor, wires and coil. Finally strapped it to a shop 3 miles
away [now I know why straps are no good for towing, they make nasty
noises when they go under the towed wheels] and paid $80 for a diag,
turned out to be the ECU under the w/s washer bottle, plunked down $90 at
National Auto and stuck it in. At least it does not need new plugs,
wires, cap, rotor and coil anytime soon.
To your problem, any friends that have a diag puter for it, thats
probably the best way. You say there is pressure, is there gas coming out
when you push the schrader or just air pressure ?? I could have sworn I
saw cheap diag puters in the local National Auto parts store for like $50
or so, by manufacturer. You could spend a fortune shotgun trouble
shooting it.

"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in
news:vhimqsai80hj06@corp.supernews.com:

> There is pressure, and very little return, during engine start. There
> is no spark.
>
>
>
>
> "Rich Pierson" <fist@ptd.net> wrote in message
> news:Xns93BCD6D481C57fistptdnet@204.186.201.17...
>> Hmmm, did you check the gas ?? :-) Did she just happen to have filled
>> it up ???
>> See if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail first, then look for
>> spark by pulling one plug and setting it against the engine. I would
>> do that first before digging into the electronics.
>> I would really check the gas though, ever since I got my 98XJ I have
>> an innate distrust of fuel gauges.. I've considerd mounting mine face
>> forward on the front corner post and let it do 'jeep waves' for me.
>>
>>
>> "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in
>> news:vhh3765p9qen3b@corp.supernews.com:
>>
>> > Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding
>> > around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none.
>> > She said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it
>> > gradually lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking
>> > lot and had to bail out in the street. She described the motor as
>> > lagging in power, and missing as it was going down.
>> >
>> > I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a
>> > Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is,
>> > but the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take
>> > off.
>> >
>> > The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin
>> > connector, the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a
>> > way to test this device with a multi meter to determine if it is
>> > serviceable or not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to
>> > go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge
>> > transistor.
>> >
>> > The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and
>> > another device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor
>> > has one leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other
>> > legs that go to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be
>> > interconnected; I say this because of the shared wire colors, the
>> > wires actually all go into a loom, then come out again on another
>> > connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really are the
>> > same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out.
>> >
>> > My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I
>> > test the coil?
>> >
>> > I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand
>> > stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the
>> > blanks.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>

Re: OT - Working on the minivan
 

"Rich Pierson" <fist@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:Xns93BDF1DD2FD9Cfistptdnet@204.186.201.17...
> Our 87YJ died like that a couple of weeks ago, I shot gunned it with a
> new cap, rotor, wires and coil. Finally strapped it to a shop 3 miles
> away [now I know why straps are no good for towing, they make nasty
> noises when they go under the towed wheels] and paid $80 for a diag,
> turned out to be the ECU under the w/s washer bottle, plunked down $90 at
> National Auto and stuck it in. At least it does not need new plugs,
> wires, cap, rotor and coil anytime soon.
> To your problem, any friends that have a diag puter for it, thats
> probably the best way. You say there is pressure, is there gas coming out
> when you push the schrader or just air pressure ?? I could have sworn I
> saw cheap diag puters in the local National Auto parts store for like $50
> or so, by manufacturer. You could spend a fortune shotgun trouble
> shooting it.
>

It is OBD - I, and the diagnostic tools at the local auto parts store don't
connect. The tool at the store cost $150, so I bought one, but it wouldn't
connect to anything.




> "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in
> news:vhimqsai80hj06@corp.supernews.com:
>
> > There is pressure, and very little return, during engine start. There
> > is no spark.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Rich Pierson" <fist@ptd.net> wrote in message
> > news:Xns93BCD6D481C57fistptdnet@204.186.201.17...
> >> Hmmm, did you check the gas ?? :-) Did she just happen to have filled
> >> it up ???
> >> See if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail first, then look for
> >> spark by pulling one plug and setting it against the engine. I would
> >> do that first before digging into the electronics.
> >> I would really check the gas though, ever since I got my 98XJ I have
> >> an innate distrust of fuel gauges.. I've considerd mounting mine face
> >> forward on the front corner post and let it do 'jeep waves' for me.
> >>
> >>
> >> "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF@YAHOO.COM> wrote in
> >> news:vhh3765p9qen3b@corp.supernews.com:
> >>
> >> > Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding
> >> > around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none.
> >> > She said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it
> >> > gradually lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking
> >> > lot and had to bail out in the street. She described the motor as
> >> > lagging in power, and missing as it was going down.
> >> >
> >> > I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a
> >> > Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is,
> >> > but the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take
> >> > off.
> >> >
> >> > The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin
> >> > connector, the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a
> >> > way to test this device with a multi meter to determine if it is
> >> > serviceable or not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to
> >> > go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge
> >> > transistor.
> >> >
> >> > The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and
> >> > another device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor
> >> > has one leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other
> >> > legs that go to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be
> >> > interconnected; I say this because of the shared wire colors, the
> >> > wires actually all go into a loom, then come out again on another
> >> > connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really are the
> >> > same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out.
> >> >
> >> > My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I
> >> > test the coil?
> >> >
> >> > I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand
> >> > stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the
> >> > blanks.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
>