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Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted
caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL! If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out. Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Paul wrote: > > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a > hammer quickly and for free. > > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they > have a little common sense. > > Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off > the u-joint? > > I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up. > > I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was > rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places > are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead > of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion? > > Paul > > "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ... > > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of > > job. > > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good > > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!! > > > > What is wrong with a proper tool? > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694 > > $29.99 > > and here is a ball joint tool that should work > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335 > > $39.99 > > and another bj tool > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236 > > $59.99 > > > > Sometimes these tools go on sale! > > > > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again > > (replaced in May 2001). > > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol > > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the > > non-greaseable ones. :-) > > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes! > > > > JMHO > > later, > > dave AKA vwdoc1 > > > > > > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message > > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m... > > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult > > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the > > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap > > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings > > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps > > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing > > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were > > > basically dust by the time I finished with them. > > > > > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to > > > reinstall everything. > > > > > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens > > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will > > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I > > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial > > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help. > > > > > > NOTE > > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to > > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are > > > the way to go. > > > > > > NOTE > > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap > > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack. > > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away > > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid > > > wrench into the gaps that form. > > > > > > > > > Paul |
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Looks to me like your only choice is to buy the replacement pin,
and the allen or torques wrench, too. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Paul wrote: > > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a > hammer quickly and for free. > > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they > have a little common sense. > > Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off > the u-joint? > > I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up. > > I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was > rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places > are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead > of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion? > > Paul > > "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ... > > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of > > job. > > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good > > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!! > > > > What is wrong with a proper tool? > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694 > > $29.99 > > and here is a ball joint tool that should work > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335 > > $39.99 > > and another bj tool > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236 > > $59.99 > > > > Sometimes these tools go on sale! > > > > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again > > (replaced in May 2001). > > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol > > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the > > non-greaseable ones. :-) > > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes! > > > > JMHO > > later, > > dave AKA vwdoc1 > > > > > > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message > > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m... > > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult > > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the > > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap > > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings > > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps > > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing > > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were > > > basically dust by the time I finished with them. > > > > > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to > > > reinstall everything. > > > > > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens > > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will > > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I > > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial > > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help. > > > > > > NOTE > > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to > > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are > > > the way to go. > > > > > > NOTE > > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap > > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack. > > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away > > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid > > > wrench into the gaps that form. > > > > > > > > > Paul |
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Looks to me like your only choice is to buy the replacement pin,
and the allen or torques wrench, too. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Paul wrote: > > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a > hammer quickly and for free. > > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they > have a little common sense. > > Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off > the u-joint? > > I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up. > > I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was > rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places > are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead > of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion? > > Paul > > "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ... > > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of > > job. > > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good > > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!! > > > > What is wrong with a proper tool? > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694 > > $29.99 > > and here is a ball joint tool that should work > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335 > > $39.99 > > and another bj tool > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236 > > $59.99 > > > > Sometimes these tools go on sale! > > > > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again > > (replaced in May 2001). > > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol > > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the > > non-greaseable ones. :-) > > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes! > > > > JMHO > > later, > > dave AKA vwdoc1 > > > > > > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message > > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m... > > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult > > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the > > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap > > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings > > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps > > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing > > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were > > > basically dust by the time I finished with them. > > > > > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to > > > reinstall everything. > > > > > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens > > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will > > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I > > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial > > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help. > > > > > > NOTE > > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to > > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are > > > the way to go. > > > > > > NOTE > > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap > > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack. > > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away > > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid > > > wrench into the gaps that form. > > > > > > > > > Paul |
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Looks to me like your only choice is to buy the replacement pin,
and the allen or torques wrench, too. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Paul wrote: > > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a > hammer quickly and for free. > > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they > have a little common sense. > > Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off > the u-joint? > > I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up. > > I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was > rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places > are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead > of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion? > > Paul > > "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ... > > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of > > job. > > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good > > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!! > > > > What is wrong with a proper tool? > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694 > > $29.99 > > and here is a ball joint tool that should work > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335 > > $39.99 > > and another bj tool > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236 > > $59.99 > > > > Sometimes these tools go on sale! > > > > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again > > (replaced in May 2001). > > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol > > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the > > non-greaseable ones. :-) > > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes! > > > > JMHO > > later, > > dave AKA vwdoc1 > > > > > > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message > > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m... > > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult > > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the > > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap > > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings > > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps > > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing > > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were > > > basically dust by the time I finished with them. > > > > > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to > > > reinstall everything. > > > > > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens > > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will > > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I > > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial > > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help. > > > > > > NOTE > > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to > > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are > > > the way to go. > > > > > > NOTE > > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap > > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack. > > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away > > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid > > > wrench into the gaps that form. > > > > > > > > > Paul |
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
Looks to me like your only choice is to buy the replacement pin,
and the allen or torques wrench, too. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Paul wrote: > > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a > hammer quickly and for free. > > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they > have a little common sense. > > Has anyone else had seized bearing caps? How have you gotten them off > the u-joint? > > I would also recommend changing the u-joints before they seize up. > > I was going to replace the caliper pins because the hex area was > rounded but I can not find the exact same pins. The auto parts places > are trying to give me a replacement part that has a socket end instead > of the hex end. Anyone have a suggestion? > > Paul > > "dave AKA vwdoc1" <NO_vwdoc1_SPAM_@hotmail.com_PLEASE> wrote in message news:<STUSc.1643$ZC7.9@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com> ... > > Hammers, sockets and chisels are great, but not designed for this type of > > job. > > And there could be flying metal that can scratch an eye even with good > > safety glasses on. That doesn't feel good either!!!! > > > > What is wrong with a proper tool? > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46694 > > $29.99 > > and here is a ball joint tool that should work > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335 > > $39.99 > > and another bj tool > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42236 > > $59.99 > > > > Sometimes these tools go on sale! > > > > I just replaced the left one on my 88 XJ and might redo the right side again > > (replaced in May 2001). > > I have to remember to grease them with a gun more often. lol > > Yes I know the ones that are greaseable are not as strong as the > > non-greaseable ones. :-) > > I wonder if synthetic grease is that much better? Probably yes! > > > > JMHO > > later, > > dave AKA vwdoc1 > > > > > > "Paul" <katarn444@rcn.com> wrote in message > > news:319414c5.0408111821.155d846@posting.google.co m... > > > Everything is apart. The seized bearing caps were awfully difficult > > > to remove. I got a chisel and hammer and started to smash. First the > > > ring where the rubber gasket used to be fell off and then the cap > > > finally started to move, slowly. Eventually rusted pin bearings > > > started to shoot out and finally the caps fell off. The seized caps > > > and bearing were pretty much rusted to hell. On one cap the bearing > > > were rusted into one big mass. On the other the bearings were > > > basically dust by the time I finished with them. > > > > > > I spent a little time clean off some rust, tomorrow I will try to > > > reinstall everything. > > > > > > So far this job has taken about 15 hours. I guess that's what happens > > > when a u-joint lasts 15 years. If everything works out well I will > > > probable do the other side and the driveshaft u-joints. Now that I > > > know what I am doing it should be easier. Plus I have the sacrificial > > > bolt, and the other one is not seized which should help. > > > > > > NOTE > > > And if anyone else has to do this job and is doing research listen to > > > the above posts. A big hammer (15 pound sledge) and the sockets are > > > the way to go. > > > > > > NOTE > > > For a seized u-joint, use a chisel to get in between the bearing cap > > > and yoke, where the rubber gasket is. Wedge the chisel in that crack. > > > Keep working up to bigger and bigger chisels forcing the cap away > > > from the yoke. It will slowly pull away, I kept spraying liquid > > > wrench into the gaps that form. > > > > > > > > > Paul |
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
OK OK you win!
BFH it is then! lol Just be safe and use your common sense. I just did my XJ's Left Side U-Joint, but I used my 20 ton press. I actually thought those tools from Harbor Freight would have made it easier, but according to you guys maybe not. I have heard of people using a good vise clamp, but maybe that was just for installation. I'll save my money and not buy one of them either, unless someone wants me to try them out! <g> The tools I provided links for should allow you to push the u-joint so that one cap is almost push out of the yoke, then push the u-joint the other way and push the other cap through the yoke. One tool description says "Remove even the most stubborn U-joint with ease" At least that is what I think it should do! :-) -- later, dave AKA vwdoc1 88 XJ 4.0 auto 88 FSJ-GW 360 auto (GRAND 88) Chicago "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:411D011A.F81E63B7@sympatico.ca... > You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted > caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL! > > If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I > would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out. > > Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a > friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle > around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one > off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Paul wrote: > > > > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take > > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to > > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they > > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for > > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a > > hammer quickly and for free. > > > > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those > > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when > > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they > > have a little common sense. |
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
OK OK you win!
BFH it is then! lol Just be safe and use your common sense. I just did my XJ's Left Side U-Joint, but I used my 20 ton press. I actually thought those tools from Harbor Freight would have made it easier, but according to you guys maybe not. I have heard of people using a good vise clamp, but maybe that was just for installation. I'll save my money and not buy one of them either, unless someone wants me to try them out! <g> The tools I provided links for should allow you to push the u-joint so that one cap is almost push out of the yoke, then push the u-joint the other way and push the other cap through the yoke. One tool description says "Remove even the most stubborn U-joint with ease" At least that is what I think it should do! :-) -- later, dave AKA vwdoc1 88 XJ 4.0 auto 88 FSJ-GW 360 auto (GRAND 88) Chicago "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:411D011A.F81E63B7@sympatico.ca... > You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted > caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL! > > If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I > would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out. > > Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a > friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle > around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one > off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Paul wrote: > > > > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take > > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to > > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they > > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for > > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a > > hammer quickly and for free. > > > > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those > > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when > > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they > > have a little common sense. |
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
OK OK you win!
BFH it is then! lol Just be safe and use your common sense. I just did my XJ's Left Side U-Joint, but I used my 20 ton press. I actually thought those tools from Harbor Freight would have made it easier, but according to you guys maybe not. I have heard of people using a good vise clamp, but maybe that was just for installation. I'll save my money and not buy one of them either, unless someone wants me to try them out! <g> The tools I provided links for should allow you to push the u-joint so that one cap is almost push out of the yoke, then push the u-joint the other way and push the other cap through the yoke. One tool description says "Remove even the most stubborn U-joint with ease" At least that is what I think it should do! :-) -- later, dave AKA vwdoc1 88 XJ 4.0 auto 88 FSJ-GW 360 auto (GRAND 88) Chicago "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:411D011A.F81E63B7@sympatico.ca... > You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted > caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL! > > If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I > would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out. > > Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a > friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle > around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one > off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Paul wrote: > > > > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take > > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to > > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they > > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for > > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a > > hammer quickly and for free. > > > > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those > > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when > > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they > > have a little common sense. |
Re: Opinions on fixing up a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4x4
OK OK you win!
BFH it is then! lol Just be safe and use your common sense. I just did my XJ's Left Side U-Joint, but I used my 20 ton press. I actually thought those tools from Harbor Freight would have made it easier, but according to you guys maybe not. I have heard of people using a good vise clamp, but maybe that was just for installation. I'll save my money and not buy one of them either, unless someone wants me to try them out! <g> The tools I provided links for should allow you to push the u-joint so that one cap is almost push out of the yoke, then push the u-joint the other way and push the other cap through the yoke. One tool description says "Remove even the most stubborn U-joint with ease" At least that is what I think it should do! :-) -- later, dave AKA vwdoc1 88 XJ 4.0 auto 88 FSJ-GW 360 auto (GRAND 88) Chicago "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:411D011A.F81E63B7@sympatico.ca... > You are right and no tool is going to take the place of a BFG on rusted > caps or a lot of other Jeep parts. LOL! > > If the caliper slide bolts are the same diameter as the hex ones, then I > would go with them. Those allen key holes are trouble when worn out. > > Be wary though, I saw one supposed Jeep 'mechanic' put a set on a > friends and they were way smaller which allows his caliper to rattle > around. I think that is extremely dangerous, but he hasn't sheared one > off yet, soo 'maybe' it's ok, but... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Paul wrote: > > > > There is no tool that I know of or that you showed me that would take > > off a bearing cap that was seized on. The tools you showed are to > > push the u-joint through the yoke which was not my problem. Yes they > > you have replaced the sledge hammer but I am not about to wait for > > these tools to be delivered when everyone says they can do it with a > > hammer quickly and for free. > > > > Like I said the chisel was the only way I could think of to get those > > caps off. I guess I should have recommended wearing glasses when > > doing this like I was. If somebody is doing this job I expect they > > have a little common sense. |
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