next projext question for CJ
 

Thanks to everyone who helped me replace the rear seal on my 86 CJ. I
got it back together and it seems to be holding so far. Next I would
like to tackle the idle problem. The Jeep runs pretty well once it
warms up, but the idle stutters and jumps when the engine is cold. I
think the original carb has been replaced with a direct replacement
model, and I know that the computer is completly bypassed -- the only
vacuum left is to the pvc and to the distributer. Could this be just a
clogged canister? btw, the plug wires look new, but I don't know how
old the rotor, distributer cap, or plugs are. Thanks

--
Sleestak
Registered GNU/Linux user number 281031 http://counter.li.org/
Say NO! To TCPA! http://www.againsttcpa.com

Re: next projext question for CJ
 

Sleestak wrote:

>
> Thanks to everyone who helped me replace the rear seal on my 86 CJ. I
> got it back together and it seems to be holding so far. Next I would
> like to tackle the idle problem. The Jeep runs pretty well once it
> warms up, but the idle stutters and jumps when the engine is cold. I
> think the original carb has been replaced with a direct replacement
> model, and I know that the computer is completly bypassed -- the only
> vacuum left is to the pvc and to the distributer. Could this be just a
> clogged canister? btw, the plug wires look new, but I don't know how
> old the rotor, distributer cap, or plugs are. Thanks
>


Well, I suppose I'm willing to throw a little money at this project, so what
about a new carb, ignition, coil, wires, and plugs? Any other stuff I
should replace? What do you all suggest. I want to get her purring like a
kitten. btw, this is an 86 CJ with the computer bypassed. Also,
emmissions considerations are not a problem where I live.


Thanks all.

--
Say NO! To TCPA! http://www.againsttcpa.com
What's Microsoft up to: http://www.euronet.nl/users/frankvw/IhateMS.html

Re: next projext question for CJ
 

Sleestak wrote:

>
> Thanks to everyone who helped me replace the rear seal on my 86 CJ. I
> got it back together and it seems to be holding so far. Next I would
> like to tackle the idle problem. The Jeep runs pretty well once it
> warms up, but the idle stutters and jumps when the engine is cold. I
> think the original carb has been replaced with a direct replacement
> model, and I know that the computer is completly bypassed -- the only
> vacuum left is to the pvc and to the distributer. Could this be just a
> clogged canister? btw, the plug wires look new, but I don't know how
> old the rotor, distributer cap, or plugs are. Thanks
>


Well, I suppose I'm willing to throw a little money at this project, so what
about a new carb, ignition, coil, wires, and plugs? Any other stuff I
should replace? What do you all suggest. I want to get her purring like a
kitten. btw, this is an 86 CJ with the computer bypassed. Also,
emmissions considerations are not a problem where I live.


Thanks all.

--
Say NO! To TCPA! http://www.againsttcpa.com
What's Microsoft up to: http://www.euronet.nl/users/frankvw/IhateMS.html

Re: next projext question for CJ
 

Sleestak wrote:

>
> Thanks to everyone who helped me replace the rear seal on my 86 CJ. I
> got it back together and it seems to be holding so far. Next I would
> like to tackle the idle problem. The Jeep runs pretty well once it
> warms up, but the idle stutters and jumps when the engine is cold. I
> think the original carb has been replaced with a direct replacement
> model, and I know that the computer is completly bypassed -- the only
> vacuum left is to the pvc and to the distributer. Could this be just a
> clogged canister? btw, the plug wires look new, but I don't know how
> old the rotor, distributer cap, or plugs are. Thanks
>


Well, I suppose I'm willing to throw a little money at this project, so what
about a new carb, ignition, coil, wires, and plugs? Any other stuff I
should replace? What do you all suggest. I want to get her purring like a
kitten. btw, this is an 86 CJ with the computer bypassed. Also,
emmissions considerations are not a problem where I live.


Thanks all.

--
Say NO! To TCPA! http://www.againsttcpa.com
What's Microsoft up to: http://www.euronet.nl/users/frankvw/IhateMS.html

Re: next projext question for CJ
 

Danny Bains wrote:
>
> Sleestak wrote:
>
> >
> > Thanks to everyone who helped me replace the rear seal on my 86 CJ. I
> > got it back together and it seems to be holding so far. Next I would
> > like to tackle the idle problem. The Jeep runs pretty well once it
> > warms up, but the idle stutters and jumps when the engine is cold. I
> > think the original carb has been replaced with a direct replacement
> > model, and I know that the computer is completly bypassed -- the only
> > vacuum left is to the pvc and to the distributer. Could this be just a
> > clogged canister? btw, the plug wires look new, but I don't know how
> > old the rotor, distributer cap, or plugs are. Thanks
> >
>
> Well, I suppose I'm willing to throw a little money at this project, so what
> about a new carb, ignition, coil, wires, and plugs? Any other stuff I
> should replace? What do you all suggest. I want to get her purring like a
> kitten. btw, this is an 86 CJ with the computer bypassed. Also,
> emmissions considerations are not a problem where I live.
>

Well, you are giving a perfect description of that timer choke working
'perfectly'.

The choke works on a timer that relies on how long it has seen 12 volts,
not on how hot or cold it 'really' is.

I went manual choke. No more cold stumble issues, it just purrs now
until warmed up.

A good tune up is always a good thing to do, especially the cap and
rotor and plugs. If the wires are of an unknown vintage, then maybe
them too.

Some other gotchas on the computer disable.

There are a few vacuum operated parts that need to be working for a
smooth cold warm up. One big one is the air filter flaps that open and
suck hot air from the manifold until it warms up.

Without this hot air intake, the carb can and will actually physically
ice up in cold humid air.

That is why those air filters with the open case are not smog legal,
they keep the engine in a choke condition or a flutter the gas pedal
flood condition way too long.

Without the hot air tube, it takes at least twice as long to warm up and
run stable.

Another important part is the heater element just below the carb. This
is turned on as soon as the engine has oil pressure by using the oil
pressure switch at the base of the oil sender. This sends a signal to a
relay in the center of the firewall hanging off the wiring harness which
sends a strong 12 volts to the heater and shuts off thermostatically via
the t-stat in the rear of the manifold.

These two things are independent of any computer controls, they are
mechanical items.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Re: next projext question for CJ
 

Danny Bains wrote:
>
> Sleestak wrote:
>
> >
> > Thanks to everyone who helped me replace the rear seal on my 86 CJ. I
> > got it back together and it seems to be holding so far. Next I would
> > like to tackle the idle problem. The Jeep runs pretty well once it
> > warms up, but the idle stutters and jumps when the engine is cold. I
> > think the original carb has been replaced with a direct replacement
> > model, and I know that the computer is completly bypassed -- the only
> > vacuum left is to the pvc and to the distributer. Could this be just a
> > clogged canister? btw, the plug wires look new, but I don't know how
> > old the rotor, distributer cap, or plugs are. Thanks
> >
>
> Well, I suppose I'm willing to throw a little money at this project, so what
> about a new carb, ignition, coil, wires, and plugs? Any other stuff I
> should replace? What do you all suggest. I want to get her purring like a
> kitten. btw, this is an 86 CJ with the computer bypassed. Also,
> emmissions considerations are not a problem where I live.
>

Well, you are giving a perfect description of that timer choke working
'perfectly'.

The choke works on a timer that relies on how long it has seen 12 volts,
not on how hot or cold it 'really' is.

I went manual choke. No more cold stumble issues, it just purrs now
until warmed up.

A good tune up is always a good thing to do, especially the cap and
rotor and plugs. If the wires are of an unknown vintage, then maybe
them too.

Some other gotchas on the computer disable.

There are a few vacuum operated parts that need to be working for a
smooth cold warm up. One big one is the air filter flaps that open and
suck hot air from the manifold until it warms up.

Without this hot air intake, the carb can and will actually physically
ice up in cold humid air.

That is why those air filters with the open case are not smog legal,
they keep the engine in a choke condition or a flutter the gas pedal
flood condition way too long.

Without the hot air tube, it takes at least twice as long to warm up and
run stable.

Another important part is the heater element just below the carb. This
is turned on as soon as the engine has oil pressure by using the oil
pressure switch at the base of the oil sender. This sends a signal to a
relay in the center of the firewall hanging off the wiring harness which
sends a strong 12 volts to the heater and shuts off thermostatically via
the t-stat in the rear of the manifold.

These two things are independent of any computer controls, they are
mechanical items.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Re: next projext question for CJ
 

Danny Bains wrote:
>
> Sleestak wrote:
>
> >
> > Thanks to everyone who helped me replace the rear seal on my 86 CJ. I
> > got it back together and it seems to be holding so far. Next I would
> > like to tackle the idle problem. The Jeep runs pretty well once it
> > warms up, but the idle stutters and jumps when the engine is cold. I
> > think the original carb has been replaced with a direct replacement
> > model, and I know that the computer is completly bypassed -- the only
> > vacuum left is to the pvc and to the distributer. Could this be just a
> > clogged canister? btw, the plug wires look new, but I don't know how
> > old the rotor, distributer cap, or plugs are. Thanks
> >
>
> Well, I suppose I'm willing to throw a little money at this project, so what
> about a new carb, ignition, coil, wires, and plugs? Any other stuff I
> should replace? What do you all suggest. I want to get her purring like a
> kitten. btw, this is an 86 CJ with the computer bypassed. Also,
> emmissions considerations are not a problem where I live.
>

Well, you are giving a perfect description of that timer choke working
'perfectly'.

The choke works on a timer that relies on how long it has seen 12 volts,
not on how hot or cold it 'really' is.

I went manual choke. No more cold stumble issues, it just purrs now
until warmed up.

A good tune up is always a good thing to do, especially the cap and
rotor and plugs. If the wires are of an unknown vintage, then maybe
them too.

Some other gotchas on the computer disable.

There are a few vacuum operated parts that need to be working for a
smooth cold warm up. One big one is the air filter flaps that open and
suck hot air from the manifold until it warms up.

Without this hot air intake, the carb can and will actually physically
ice up in cold humid air.

That is why those air filters with the open case are not smog legal,
they keep the engine in a choke condition or a flutter the gas pedal
flood condition way too long.

Without the hot air tube, it takes at least twice as long to warm up and
run stable.

Another important part is the heater element just below the carb. This
is turned on as soon as the engine has oil pressure by using the oil
pressure switch at the base of the oil sender. This sends a signal to a
relay in the center of the firewall hanging off the wiring harness which
sends a strong 12 volts to the heater and shuts off thermostatically via
the t-stat in the rear of the manifold.

These two things are independent of any computer controls, they are
mechanical items.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's