When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
grabs, that's all you got......

There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
adjust the rear shoes up.

There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.

The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
how many 'clicks' it should be at.

Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
about the same time the shoes are worn out.

If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)



Clint wrote:
>
> I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to torque
> it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it, and
> can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust it?
>
> Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
>
> And thanks for the help so far!
>
> Clint

 

When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
grabs, that's all you got......

There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
adjust the rear shoes up.

There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.

The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
how many 'clicks' it should be at.

Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
about the same time the shoes are worn out.

If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)



Clint wrote:
>
> I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to torque
> it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it, and
> can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust it?
>
> Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
>
> And thanks for the help so far!
>
> Clint

 

When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
grabs, that's all you got......

There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
adjust the rear shoes up.

There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.

The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
how many 'clicks' it should be at.

Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
about the same time the shoes are worn out.

If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)



Clint wrote:
>
> I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to torque
> it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it, and
> can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust it?
>
> Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
>
> And thanks for the help so far!
>
> Clint

 

Thanks for the input, Bill and Mike.

AFAIK, I still have rear brakes. At a check-up done about 6 months ago,
they were at about 50%, and I haven't been driving that much (and when I do
drive, it's almost all highway).

The e-brake does grab a bit, but I can sink the pedal down to the floor
without trying to hard. It does hold the truck on a slight slope, but not
on my driveway, so not good enough. Oh, and the FSM says the e-brake should
be adjusted for 5 "clicks".

Mike, where are the star wheels you're talking about? I'll take a look
around the rear wheels for the adjuster cables you and Bill mention. Thanks
for that.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:427554AF.38D7169F@sympatico.ca...
> When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
> hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
> grabs, that's all you got......
>
> There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
> adjust the rear shoes up.
>
> There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.
>
> The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
> the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
> That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
> little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
> how many 'clicks' it should be at.
>
> Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
> floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
> about the same time the shoes are worn out.
>
> If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
> wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
> brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
> rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)
>
>
>
> Clint wrote:
> >
> > I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to
torque
> > it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it,
and
> > can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust
it?
> >
> > Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> > which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
> >
> > And thanks for the help so far!
> >
> > Clint

 

Thanks for the input, Bill and Mike.

AFAIK, I still have rear brakes. At a check-up done about 6 months ago,
they were at about 50%, and I haven't been driving that much (and when I do
drive, it's almost all highway).

The e-brake does grab a bit, but I can sink the pedal down to the floor
without trying to hard. It does hold the truck on a slight slope, but not
on my driveway, so not good enough. Oh, and the FSM says the e-brake should
be adjusted for 5 "clicks".

Mike, where are the star wheels you're talking about? I'll take a look
around the rear wheels for the adjuster cables you and Bill mention. Thanks
for that.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:427554AF.38D7169F@sympatico.ca...
> When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
> hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
> grabs, that's all you got......
>
> There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
> adjust the rear shoes up.
>
> There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.
>
> The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
> the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
> That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
> little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
> how many 'clicks' it should be at.
>
> Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
> floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
> about the same time the shoes are worn out.
>
> If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
> wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
> brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
> rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)
>
>
>
> Clint wrote:
> >
> > I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to
torque
> > it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it,
and
> > can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust
it?
> >
> > Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> > which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
> >
> > And thanks for the help so far!
> >
> > Clint

 

Thanks for the input, Bill and Mike.

AFAIK, I still have rear brakes. At a check-up done about 6 months ago,
they were at about 50%, and I haven't been driving that much (and when I do
drive, it's almost all highway).

The e-brake does grab a bit, but I can sink the pedal down to the floor
without trying to hard. It does hold the truck on a slight slope, but not
on my driveway, so not good enough. Oh, and the FSM says the e-brake should
be adjusted for 5 "clicks".

Mike, where are the star wheels you're talking about? I'll take a look
around the rear wheels for the adjuster cables you and Bill mention. Thanks
for that.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:427554AF.38D7169F@sympatico.ca...
> When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
> hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
> grabs, that's all you got......
>
> There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
> adjust the rear shoes up.
>
> There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.
>
> The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
> the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
> That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
> little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
> how many 'clicks' it should be at.
>
> Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
> floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
> about the same time the shoes are worn out.
>
> If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
> wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
> brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
> rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)
>
>
>
> Clint wrote:
> >
> > I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to
torque
> > it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it,
and
> > can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust
it?
> >
> > Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> > which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
> >
> > And thanks for the help so far!
> >
> > Clint

 

Thanks for the input, Bill and Mike.

AFAIK, I still have rear brakes. At a check-up done about 6 months ago,
they were at about 50%, and I haven't been driving that much (and when I do
drive, it's almost all highway).

The e-brake does grab a bit, but I can sink the pedal down to the floor
without trying to hard. It does hold the truck on a slight slope, but not
on my driveway, so not good enough. Oh, and the FSM says the e-brake should
be adjusted for 5 "clicks".

Mike, where are the star wheels you're talking about? I'll take a look
around the rear wheels for the adjuster cables you and Bill mention. Thanks
for that.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:427554AF.38D7169F@sympatico.ca...
> When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
> hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
> grabs, that's all you got......
>
> There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
> adjust the rear shoes up.
>
> There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.
>
> The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
> the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
> That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
> little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
> how many 'clicks' it should be at.
>
> Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
> floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
> about the same time the shoes are worn out.
>
> If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
> wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
> brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
> rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)
>
>
>
> Clint wrote:
> >
> > I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to
torque
> > it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it,
and
> > can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust
it?
> >
> > Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> > which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
> >
> > And thanks for the help so far!
> >
> > Clint

 

The star wheels are inside the rear drums and can be accessed from the
back bottom plate. There should be a rubber grommet in the slot that
you can remove and turn the star wheel to adjust the rear brakes.

If they are working, you should be able to go in reverse and hit the
brakes, then forward and hit the brakes to reset then repeat. Every
time you hit the brake in reverse it should adjust the shoe and the
e-brake pedal should come up some.

If you have to manually adjust them, you have the wheel in the air and
turn the star wheel until the brakes just start to grab. If you go too
far, you can push in with a second small screwdriver to lift the
adjuster plate so the star wheel can be backed off.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Clint wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input, Bill and Mike.
>
> AFAIK, I still have rear brakes. At a check-up done about 6 months ago,
> they were at about 50%, and I haven't been driving that much (and when I do
> drive, it's almost all highway).
>
> The e-brake does grab a bit, but I can sink the pedal down to the floor
> without trying to hard. It does hold the truck on a slight slope, but not
> on my driveway, so not good enough. Oh, and the FSM says the e-brake should
> be adjusted for 5 "clicks".
>
> Mike, where are the star wheels you're talking about? I'll take a look
> around the rear wheels for the adjuster cables you and Bill mention. Thanks
> for that.
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:427554AF.38D7169F@sympatico.ca...
> > When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
> > hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
> > grabs, that's all you got......
> >
> > There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
> > adjust the rear shoes up.
> >
> > There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.
> >
> > The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
> > the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
> > That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
> > little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
> > how many 'clicks' it should be at.
> >
> > Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
> > floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
> > about the same time the shoes are worn out.
> >
> > If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
> > wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
> > brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
> > rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)
> >
> >
> >
> > Clint wrote:
> > >
> > > I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to
> torque
> > > it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it,
> and
> > > can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust
> it?
> > >
> > > Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> > > which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
> > >
> > > And thanks for the help so far!
> > >
> > > Clint

 

The star wheels are inside the rear drums and can be accessed from the
back bottom plate. There should be a rubber grommet in the slot that
you can remove and turn the star wheel to adjust the rear brakes.

If they are working, you should be able to go in reverse and hit the
brakes, then forward and hit the brakes to reset then repeat. Every
time you hit the brake in reverse it should adjust the shoe and the
e-brake pedal should come up some.

If you have to manually adjust them, you have the wheel in the air and
turn the star wheel until the brakes just start to grab. If you go too
far, you can push in with a second small screwdriver to lift the
adjuster plate so the star wheel can be backed off.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Clint wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input, Bill and Mike.
>
> AFAIK, I still have rear brakes. At a check-up done about 6 months ago,
> they were at about 50%, and I haven't been driving that much (and when I do
> drive, it's almost all highway).
>
> The e-brake does grab a bit, but I can sink the pedal down to the floor
> without trying to hard. It does hold the truck on a slight slope, but not
> on my driveway, so not good enough. Oh, and the FSM says the e-brake should
> be adjusted for 5 "clicks".
>
> Mike, where are the star wheels you're talking about? I'll take a look
> around the rear wheels for the adjuster cables you and Bill mention. Thanks
> for that.
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:427554AF.38D7169F@sympatico.ca...
> > When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
> > hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
> > grabs, that's all you got......
> >
> > There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
> > adjust the rear shoes up.
> >
> > There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.
> >
> > The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
> > the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
> > That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
> > little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
> > how many 'clicks' it should be at.
> >
> > Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
> > floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
> > about the same time the shoes are worn out.
> >
> > If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
> > wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
> > brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
> > rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)
> >
> >
> >
> > Clint wrote:
> > >
> > > I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to
> torque
> > > it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it,
> and
> > > can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust
> it?
> > >
> > > Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> > > which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
> > >
> > > And thanks for the help so far!
> > >
> > > Clint

 

The star wheels are inside the rear drums and can be accessed from the
back bottom plate. There should be a rubber grommet in the slot that
you can remove and turn the star wheel to adjust the rear brakes.

If they are working, you should be able to go in reverse and hit the
brakes, then forward and hit the brakes to reset then repeat. Every
time you hit the brake in reverse it should adjust the shoe and the
e-brake pedal should come up some.

If you have to manually adjust them, you have the wheel in the air and
turn the star wheel until the brakes just start to grab. If you go too
far, you can push in with a second small screwdriver to lift the
adjuster plate so the star wheel can be backed off.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Clint wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input, Bill and Mike.
>
> AFAIK, I still have rear brakes. At a check-up done about 6 months ago,
> they were at about 50%, and I haven't been driving that much (and when I do
> drive, it's almost all highway).
>
> The e-brake does grab a bit, but I can sink the pedal down to the floor
> without trying to hard. It does hold the truck on a slight slope, but not
> on my driveway, so not good enough. Oh, and the FSM says the e-brake should
> be adjusted for 5 "clicks".
>
> Mike, where are the star wheels you're talking about? I'll take a look
> around the rear wheels for the adjuster cables you and Bill mention. Thanks
> for that.
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:427554AF.38D7169F@sympatico.ca...
> > When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't
> > hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal
> > grabs, that's all you got......
> >
> > There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that
> > adjust the rear shoes up.
> >
> > There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal.
> >
> > The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on
> > the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one.
> > That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a
> > little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say
> > how many 'clicks' it should be at.
> >
> > Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the
> > floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or
> > about the same time the shoes are worn out.
> >
> > If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star
> > wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear
> > brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has
> > rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt)
> >
> >
> >
> > Clint wrote:
> > >
> > > I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to
> torque
> > > it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it,
> and
> > > can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust
> it?
> > >
> > > Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway,
> > > which doesn't make me feel particularly safe.
> > >
> > > And thanks for the help so far!
> > >
> > > Clint