I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train and
frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and took it to
the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass tub through
quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up and save shipping).

Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in fitting a
glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I can justify the
extra $900.

Thanks
Larry

 

Hi Larry,
You have to make struts to hold your roll bar, to give it the same
strength as a steel tub. Mike Romain, here had to reinforce the windshield
brackets. But it sure look nice when it's finished:
http://www.----------.com/zakocs/caldwell/
http://www.saturdaybang.com/jeep/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


"Larry W" <webb@removethisrovatune.com> wrote in message
news:46959dd8$0$20553$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
and
> frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and took
it to
> the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass tub through
> quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up and save
shipping).
>
> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in fitting
a
> glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I can justify
the
> extra $900.
>
> Thanks
> Larry



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

Hi Larry,
You have to make struts to hold your roll bar, to give it the same
strength as a steel tub. Mike Romain, here had to reinforce the windshield
brackets. But it sure look nice when it's finished:
http://www.----------.com/zakocs/caldwell/
http://www.saturdaybang.com/jeep/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


"Larry W" <webb@removethisrovatune.com> wrote in message
news:46959dd8$0$20553$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
and
> frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and took
it to
> the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass tub through
> quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up and save
shipping).
>
> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in fitting
a
> glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I can justify
the
> extra $900.
>
> Thanks
> Larry



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

Hi Larry,
You have to make struts to hold your roll bar, to give it the same
strength as a steel tub. Mike Romain, here had to reinforce the windshield
brackets. But it sure look nice when it's finished:
http://www.----------.com/zakocs/caldwell/
http://www.saturdaybang.com/jeep/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


"Larry W" <webb@removethisrovatune.com> wrote in message
news:46959dd8$0$20553$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
and
> frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and took
it to
> the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass tub through
> quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up and save
shipping).
>
> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in fitting
a
> glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I can justify
the
> extra $900.
>
> Thanks
> Larry



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

Hi Larry,
You have to make struts to hold your roll bar, to give it the same
strength as a steel tub. Mike Romain, here had to reinforce the windshield
brackets. But it sure look nice when it's finished:
http://www.----------.com/zakocs/caldwell/
http://www.saturdaybang.com/jeep/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


"Larry W" <webb@removethisrovatune.com> wrote in message
news:46959dd8$0$20553$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
and
> frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and took
it to
> the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass tub through
> quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up and save
shipping).
>
> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in fitting
a
> glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I can justify
the
> extra $900.
>
> Thanks
> Larry



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

You should have saved your firewall for a template.....

I 'really' like my fiberglass body. I bought one made in Ontario Canada
with a one piece front clip that flips up out of the way. Basically I
can sit on the tire to change the plugs or tinker with the carb.

CJ build http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=4292105877

I did my restore back in 1999/2000 and have had lots of year round
serious off roading, twisting, tree smacking, rubber side up fun over
the years with it.

It wasn't that hard to fit. The gent that made my shell really knew his
stuff and all the parts fit on exact. Hard and soft doors, hard and
soft top, roll bar, seats, dash, etc. I even got the chrome Laredo
grill insert to fit in the front clip.

I had to do some part trimming due to the thick floors. The inside and
outside shell have a 1" waterproof plywood core and the firewall has
diamond plate sandwiched in it. Things like the steering support needed
a trim. A Dremil tool with a fiberglass reinforced cut off wheel will
be your good friend...

The wiring harness is modular so it fit over really easily, I added a
dedicated 10 ga. wire to each loom to pick up all the ground tags
leading them to a central tap. I got a harness from a GM van from a
friend which has all the same light sockets and plugs on it so I could
swap over any rotted ones. I used solder, dielectric grease and heat
shrink on all the splices. I anchored things like the solenoid right to
the engine block and put the canister up under the brake booster out of
the mud with the washer bottle below it.

I made a frame at the back, inside the fenders which cups the rear cargo
area and is anchored to the frame mounts to mount my spare tire carrier
and it's big cargo rack to so the body tub has no load from them.

While it was a bare frame, I replaces all the lines, stripped it, used a
rust converter (red) undercoat with a rubberized top coat on it and
replaced ever seal every place I could find one.

All in all It isn't a lot of extra work over a steel tub and then you
have no more rust....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Larry W wrote:
> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
> and frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and
> took it to the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass
> tub through quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up
> and save shipping).
>
> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in
> fitting a glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I
> can justify the extra $900.
>
> Thanks
> Larry

 

You should have saved your firewall for a template.....

I 'really' like my fiberglass body. I bought one made in Ontario Canada
with a one piece front clip that flips up out of the way. Basically I
can sit on the tire to change the plugs or tinker with the carb.

CJ build http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=4292105877

I did my restore back in 1999/2000 and have had lots of year round
serious off roading, twisting, tree smacking, rubber side up fun over
the years with it.

It wasn't that hard to fit. The gent that made my shell really knew his
stuff and all the parts fit on exact. Hard and soft doors, hard and
soft top, roll bar, seats, dash, etc. I even got the chrome Laredo
grill insert to fit in the front clip.

I had to do some part trimming due to the thick floors. The inside and
outside shell have a 1" waterproof plywood core and the firewall has
diamond plate sandwiched in it. Things like the steering support needed
a trim. A Dremil tool with a fiberglass reinforced cut off wheel will
be your good friend...

The wiring harness is modular so it fit over really easily, I added a
dedicated 10 ga. wire to each loom to pick up all the ground tags
leading them to a central tap. I got a harness from a GM van from a
friend which has all the same light sockets and plugs on it so I could
swap over any rotted ones. I used solder, dielectric grease and heat
shrink on all the splices. I anchored things like the solenoid right to
the engine block and put the canister up under the brake booster out of
the mud with the washer bottle below it.

I made a frame at the back, inside the fenders which cups the rear cargo
area and is anchored to the frame mounts to mount my spare tire carrier
and it's big cargo rack to so the body tub has no load from them.

While it was a bare frame, I replaces all the lines, stripped it, used a
rust converter (red) undercoat with a rubberized top coat on it and
replaced ever seal every place I could find one.

All in all It isn't a lot of extra work over a steel tub and then you
have no more rust....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Larry W wrote:
> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
> and frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and
> took it to the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass
> tub through quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up
> and save shipping).
>
> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in
> fitting a glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I
> can justify the extra $900.
>
> Thanks
> Larry

 

You should have saved your firewall for a template.....

I 'really' like my fiberglass body. I bought one made in Ontario Canada
with a one piece front clip that flips up out of the way. Basically I
can sit on the tire to change the plugs or tinker with the carb.

CJ build http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=4292105877

I did my restore back in 1999/2000 and have had lots of year round
serious off roading, twisting, tree smacking, rubber side up fun over
the years with it.

It wasn't that hard to fit. The gent that made my shell really knew his
stuff and all the parts fit on exact. Hard and soft doors, hard and
soft top, roll bar, seats, dash, etc. I even got the chrome Laredo
grill insert to fit in the front clip.

I had to do some part trimming due to the thick floors. The inside and
outside shell have a 1" waterproof plywood core and the firewall has
diamond plate sandwiched in it. Things like the steering support needed
a trim. A Dremil tool with a fiberglass reinforced cut off wheel will
be your good friend...

The wiring harness is modular so it fit over really easily, I added a
dedicated 10 ga. wire to each loom to pick up all the ground tags
leading them to a central tap. I got a harness from a GM van from a
friend which has all the same light sockets and plugs on it so I could
swap over any rotted ones. I used solder, dielectric grease and heat
shrink on all the splices. I anchored things like the solenoid right to
the engine block and put the canister up under the brake booster out of
the mud with the washer bottle below it.

I made a frame at the back, inside the fenders which cups the rear cargo
area and is anchored to the frame mounts to mount my spare tire carrier
and it's big cargo rack to so the body tub has no load from them.

While it was a bare frame, I replaces all the lines, stripped it, used a
rust converter (red) undercoat with a rubberized top coat on it and
replaced ever seal every place I could find one.

All in all It isn't a lot of extra work over a steel tub and then you
have no more rust....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Larry W wrote:
> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
> and frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and
> took it to the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass
> tub through quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up
> and save shipping).
>
> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in
> fitting a glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I
> can justify the extra $900.
>
> Thanks
> Larry

 

You should have saved your firewall for a template.....

I 'really' like my fiberglass body. I bought one made in Ontario Canada
with a one piece front clip that flips up out of the way. Basically I
can sit on the tire to change the plugs or tinker with the carb.

CJ build http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=4292105877

I did my restore back in 1999/2000 and have had lots of year round
serious off roading, twisting, tree smacking, rubber side up fun over
the years with it.

It wasn't that hard to fit. The gent that made my shell really knew his
stuff and all the parts fit on exact. Hard and soft doors, hard and
soft top, roll bar, seats, dash, etc. I even got the chrome Laredo
grill insert to fit in the front clip.

I had to do some part trimming due to the thick floors. The inside and
outside shell have a 1" waterproof plywood core and the firewall has
diamond plate sandwiched in it. Things like the steering support needed
a trim. A Dremil tool with a fiberglass reinforced cut off wheel will
be your good friend...

The wiring harness is modular so it fit over really easily, I added a
dedicated 10 ga. wire to each loom to pick up all the ground tags
leading them to a central tap. I got a harness from a GM van from a
friend which has all the same light sockets and plugs on it so I could
swap over any rotted ones. I used solder, dielectric grease and heat
shrink on all the splices. I anchored things like the solenoid right to
the engine block and put the canister up under the brake booster out of
the mud with the washer bottle below it.

I made a frame at the back, inside the fenders which cups the rear cargo
area and is anchored to the frame mounts to mount my spare tire carrier
and it's big cargo rack to so the body tub has no load from them.

While it was a bare frame, I replaces all the lines, stripped it, used a
rust converter (red) undercoat with a rubberized top coat on it and
replaced ever seal every place I could find one.

All in all It isn't a lot of extra work over a steel tub and then you
have no more rust....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Larry W wrote:
> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
> and frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and
> took it to the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass
> tub through quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up
> and save shipping).
>
> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in
> fitting a glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I
> can justify the extra $900.
>
> Thanks
> Larry

 

I used 1/4" steel plates under my tub to pick up both the frame mount
and the 'roll' bar plate as well as the seat belt anchor so they are
frame mounted. I intend to anchor the rear of the roll bar to the rear
frame I made under the fenders that anchors tot he mounts for my spare
tire bracket when I do the next restore. Frame swap next....

I cracked a door post below one windshield bracket, but I don't think
that was a design defect. I think that I was on the losing end of an
argument with a tree for that one.... Maybe many trees as my CB antenna
on the mirror on that side and the mirror catch lots of branches.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Larry,
> You have to make struts to hold your roll bar, to give it the same
> strength as a steel tub. Mike Romain, here had to reinforce the windshield
> brackets. But it sure look nice when it's finished:
> http://www.----------.com/zakocs/caldwell/
> http://www.saturdaybang.com/jeep/
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> "Larry W" <webb@removethisrovatune.com> wrote in message
> news:46959dd8$0$20553$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>> I'm in the process of restoring my 65' CJ5 plow vehicle. The drive train
> and
>> frame are very good but the body tub was so bad I just cut it up and took
> it to
>> the dump. For cost reasons, I'm leaning towards a fiberglass tub through
>> quadratec.com (they are close enough that I can pick it up and save
> shipping).
>> Can anyone give me some tips on the amount of work is involved in fitting
> a
>> glass tub. I would love to get a steel tub but don't know if I can justify
> the
>> extra $900.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Larry
>
>
>