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My stupid Jeep question of the day
'76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be
connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank you. -- Travis http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
If your year still uses the regulator:
http://www.----------.com/motoralter.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- travis wrote: > > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > you. > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
If your year still uses the regulator:
http://www.----------.com/motoralter.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- travis wrote: > > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > you. > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
If your year still uses the regulator:
http://www.----------.com/motoralter.jpg God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- travis wrote: > > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > you. > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
up) fan belt. Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the rubber case is cooked. A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and alternator. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's travis wrote: > > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > you. > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
up) fan belt. Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the rubber case is cooked. A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and alternator. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's travis wrote: > > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > you. > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
up) fan belt. Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the rubber case is cooked. A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and alternator. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's travis wrote: > > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > you. > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished >up) fan belt. The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank you for the suggestion. > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the >rubber case is cooked. > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and >alternator. > >Mike >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >travis wrote: >> >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank >> you. >> >> -- >> Travis >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. >> :wq! -- Travis http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished >up) fan belt. The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank you for the suggestion. > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the >rubber case is cooked. > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and >alternator. > >Mike >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >travis wrote: >> >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank >> you. >> >> -- >> Travis >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. >> :wq! -- Travis http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished >up) fan belt. The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank you for the suggestion. > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the >rubber case is cooked. > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and >alternator. > >Mike >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >travis wrote: >> >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank >> you. >> >> -- >> Travis >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. >> :wq! -- Travis http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
GM ones have a 3rd 'excite' wire to turn on the alternator.
It is a thin (usually brown) solid core wire that tags the coil power wire on the 12 volt side of the coil's ballast resistor or ballast wire in the CJ's. On the CJ's it tags the harness right to the passenger side of the brake booster. When I turn my current alternator pulley, did it today, the crank turns too. I have a really swingy alternator volt gauge right now and have a voltage drop from the battery center post to the alternator red wire. It also drops at the solenoid bolt and on the red wire's O ring and the red wire where it goes into the cable clamp on the battery. If I put the meter on the positive cable clamp, I have no drop, so the connection between the clamp and the main wire is toast which kills my battery pretty fast. I just keep on charging up my battery because I am not in good enough physical shape right now to take the sucker apart and clean it. I am in recovery from a nasty car accident I was a passenger in. T-bone hit on the passenger door where I was sitting. Physiotherapy says I am lucky I have a 19.5" neck or it likely would have been broken and I have had a stroke from my head hitting the door post. I am not allowed to turn wrenches, or better said I am not allowed to bend in the right ways to turn wrenches.... If you use the meter on 20 volts, check the two battery posts with the engine running, then move the meter probes to the clamps one at a time and see if the volts drop. Then have the red meter probe on the positive and go to the alternator case, the volts must be 'exactly' the same. Then hold the black meter probe on the neg post and go to the red bolt on the alternator, then back to the solenoid bolt, then to the solenoid wire cable loop, then to the red wire clamp on the battery. If the voltage drops even 0.01 volts, the connection is bad. Mike travis wrote: > > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: > > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished > >up) fan belt. > > The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your > suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that > should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've > changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years > but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the > main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank > you for the suggestion. > > > > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the > >rubber case is cooked. > > > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and > >alternator. > > > >Mike > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > >travis wrote: > >> > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > >> you. > >> > >> -- > >> Travis > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > >> :wq! > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
GM ones have a 3rd 'excite' wire to turn on the alternator.
It is a thin (usually brown) solid core wire that tags the coil power wire on the 12 volt side of the coil's ballast resistor or ballast wire in the CJ's. On the CJ's it tags the harness right to the passenger side of the brake booster. When I turn my current alternator pulley, did it today, the crank turns too. I have a really swingy alternator volt gauge right now and have a voltage drop from the battery center post to the alternator red wire. It also drops at the solenoid bolt and on the red wire's O ring and the red wire where it goes into the cable clamp on the battery. If I put the meter on the positive cable clamp, I have no drop, so the connection between the clamp and the main wire is toast which kills my battery pretty fast. I just keep on charging up my battery because I am not in good enough physical shape right now to take the sucker apart and clean it. I am in recovery from a nasty car accident I was a passenger in. T-bone hit on the passenger door where I was sitting. Physiotherapy says I am lucky I have a 19.5" neck or it likely would have been broken and I have had a stroke from my head hitting the door post. I am not allowed to turn wrenches, or better said I am not allowed to bend in the right ways to turn wrenches.... If you use the meter on 20 volts, check the two battery posts with the engine running, then move the meter probes to the clamps one at a time and see if the volts drop. Then have the red meter probe on the positive and go to the alternator case, the volts must be 'exactly' the same. Then hold the black meter probe on the neg post and go to the red bolt on the alternator, then back to the solenoid bolt, then to the solenoid wire cable loop, then to the red wire clamp on the battery. If the voltage drops even 0.01 volts, the connection is bad. Mike travis wrote: > > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: > > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished > >up) fan belt. > > The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your > suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that > should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've > changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years > but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the > main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank > you for the suggestion. > > > > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the > >rubber case is cooked. > > > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and > >alternator. > > > >Mike > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > >travis wrote: > >> > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > >> you. > >> > >> -- > >> Travis > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > >> :wq! > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
GM ones have a 3rd 'excite' wire to turn on the alternator.
It is a thin (usually brown) solid core wire that tags the coil power wire on the 12 volt side of the coil's ballast resistor or ballast wire in the CJ's. On the CJ's it tags the harness right to the passenger side of the brake booster. When I turn my current alternator pulley, did it today, the crank turns too. I have a really swingy alternator volt gauge right now and have a voltage drop from the battery center post to the alternator red wire. It also drops at the solenoid bolt and on the red wire's O ring and the red wire where it goes into the cable clamp on the battery. If I put the meter on the positive cable clamp, I have no drop, so the connection between the clamp and the main wire is toast which kills my battery pretty fast. I just keep on charging up my battery because I am not in good enough physical shape right now to take the sucker apart and clean it. I am in recovery from a nasty car accident I was a passenger in. T-bone hit on the passenger door where I was sitting. Physiotherapy says I am lucky I have a 19.5" neck or it likely would have been broken and I have had a stroke from my head hitting the door post. I am not allowed to turn wrenches, or better said I am not allowed to bend in the right ways to turn wrenches.... If you use the meter on 20 volts, check the two battery posts with the engine running, then move the meter probes to the clamps one at a time and see if the volts drop. Then have the red meter probe on the positive and go to the alternator case, the volts must be 'exactly' the same. Then hold the black meter probe on the neg post and go to the red bolt on the alternator, then back to the solenoid bolt, then to the solenoid wire cable loop, then to the red wire clamp on the battery. If the voltage drops even 0.01 volts, the connection is bad. Mike travis wrote: > > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: > > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished > >up) fan belt. > > The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your > suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that > should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've > changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years > but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the > main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank > you for the suggestion. > > > > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the > >rubber case is cooked. > > > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and > >alternator. > > > >Mike > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > >travis wrote: > >> > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > >> you. > >> > >> -- > >> Travis > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > >> :wq! > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
I think this is your problem. Per my wiring diagram for '76, the green wire
runs from the field terminal to terminal 44 on the regulator. If this isn't hooked up the alternator gets no "exciter" current and basically doesn't generate any juice. The regulator should have a yellow wire at terminal 40, which is spliced in the harness to the big red "bat+" wire off the alternator, and a black wire at terminal 16 also spliced in the harness to the red w/trace wire off the ign switch. Fix the green wire and I'll bet the thing works. "travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:4dsiqvot5f4t5jblplsprp7fmmusk8iuga@4ax.com... > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > you. > > > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
I think this is your problem. Per my wiring diagram for '76, the green wire
runs from the field terminal to terminal 44 on the regulator. If this isn't hooked up the alternator gets no "exciter" current and basically doesn't generate any juice. The regulator should have a yellow wire at terminal 40, which is spliced in the harness to the big red "bat+" wire off the alternator, and a black wire at terminal 16 also spliced in the harness to the red w/trace wire off the ign switch. Fix the green wire and I'll bet the thing works. "travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:4dsiqvot5f4t5jblplsprp7fmmusk8iuga@4ax.com... > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > you. > > > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
I think this is your problem. Per my wiring diagram for '76, the green wire
runs from the field terminal to terminal 44 on the regulator. If this isn't hooked up the alternator gets no "exciter" current and basically doesn't generate any juice. The regulator should have a yellow wire at terminal 40, which is spliced in the harness to the big red "bat+" wire off the alternator, and a black wire at terminal 16 also spliced in the harness to the red w/trace wire off the ign switch. Fix the green wire and I'll bet the thing works. "travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:4dsiqvot5f4t5jblplsprp7fmmusk8iuga@4ax.com... > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > you. > > > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
> Fix the green wire and I'll bet the thing works.
> > noticed a green wire that was > > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > > at about 12V... He tried that.... maybe he didn't wait long enough? -- JimG 80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorgenospam@frontier.net> wrote in message news:boca2s025sj@enews3.newsguy.com... > I think this is your problem. Per my wiring diagram for '76, the green wire > runs from the field terminal to terminal 44 on the regulator. If this isn't > hooked up the alternator gets no "exciter" current and basically doesn't > generate any juice. The regulator should have a yellow wire at terminal 40, > which is spliced in the harness to the big red "bat+" wire off the > alternator, and a black wire at terminal 16 also spliced in the harness to > the red w/trace wire off the ign switch. > > Fix the green wire and I'll bet the thing works. > > > "travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:4dsiqvot5f4t5jblplsprp7fmmusk8iuga@4ax.com... > > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > > you. > > > > > > > > -- > > Travis > > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > > :wq! > > |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
> Fix the green wire and I'll bet the thing works.
> > noticed a green wire that was > > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > > at about 12V... He tried that.... maybe he didn't wait long enough? -- JimG 80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorgenospam@frontier.net> wrote in message news:boca2s025sj@enews3.newsguy.com... > I think this is your problem. Per my wiring diagram for '76, the green wire > runs from the field terminal to terminal 44 on the regulator. If this isn't > hooked up the alternator gets no "exciter" current and basically doesn't > generate any juice. The regulator should have a yellow wire at terminal 40, > which is spliced in the harness to the big red "bat+" wire off the > alternator, and a black wire at terminal 16 also spliced in the harness to > the red w/trace wire off the ign switch. > > Fix the green wire and I'll bet the thing works. > > > "travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:4dsiqvot5f4t5jblplsprp7fmmusk8iuga@4ax.com... > > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > > you. > > > > > > > > -- > > Travis > > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > > :wq! > > |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
> Fix the green wire and I'll bet the thing works.
> > noticed a green wire that was > > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > > at about 12V... He tried that.... maybe he didn't wait long enough? -- JimG 80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorgenospam@frontier.net> wrote in message news:boca2s025sj@enews3.newsguy.com... > I think this is your problem. Per my wiring diagram for '76, the green wire > runs from the field terminal to terminal 44 on the regulator. If this isn't > hooked up the alternator gets no "exciter" current and basically doesn't > generate any juice. The regulator should have a yellow wire at terminal 40, > which is spliced in the harness to the big red "bat+" wire off the > alternator, and a black wire at terminal 16 also spliced in the harness to > the red w/trace wire off the ign switch. > > Fix the green wire and I'll bet the thing works. > > > "travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:4dsiqvot5f4t5jblplsprp7fmmusk8iuga@4ax.com... > > '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > > connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > > Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > > the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > > went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > > connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > > reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > > at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > > for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > > alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > > 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > > I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > > maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > > Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > > you. > > > > > > > > -- > > Travis > > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > > :wq! > > |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
Hi Mike,
Really sorry to hear of your accident. Get well friend. Coincidentally, I've got the same thing happening with the sentra. I know it's sort of off topic, but along the same line. It left my wife walkin' the other day. When I got to where the car was it was dead dead. I pulled the battery and put it on my charger until topped off. Went to the car started it, got it home. Checked my connections with and without engine running. I know this is not the best thing to do, but I disconnected the negative battery terminal, with the engine on, and it died. Mind you, this is the second alternator to crap in this vehicle. This one only lasted 8 months! Strange? The odd thing this time was that red idiot light on the dash was not lit up like it was when the original one died. Could this be because the battery was nearly full? Only had to drive it about a mile and half. My wife couldn't remember or didn't notice a red light on. Fortunately, this has a lifetime warrantee and Auto Zone handed over a replacement without question. Pretty impressed. They had all my warrantee info in their computer system. Didn't need the receipt even though I had it with me. -- Thanks Always !!! Paul '75 CJ5 258 Vail, CO. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:3FA990EA.7BB2DACC@sympatico.ca... > GM ones have a 3rd 'excite' wire to turn on the alternator. > > It is a thin (usually brown) solid core wire that tags the coil power > wire on the 12 volt side of the coil's ballast resistor or ballast wire > in the CJ's. On the CJ's it tags the harness right to the passenger > side of the brake booster. > > When I turn my current alternator pulley, did it today, the crank turns > too. > > I have a really swingy alternator volt gauge right now and have a > voltage drop from the battery center post to the alternator red wire. > It also drops at the solenoid bolt and on the red wire's O ring and the > red wire where it goes into the cable clamp on the battery. If I put > the meter on the positive cable clamp, I have no drop, so the connection > between the clamp and the main wire is toast which kills my battery > pretty fast. > > I just keep on charging up my battery because I am not in good enough > physical shape right now to take the sucker apart and clean it. I am in > recovery from a nasty car accident I was a passenger in. T-bone hit on > the passenger door where I was sitting. Physiotherapy says I am lucky I > have a 19.5" neck or it likely would have been broken and I have had a > stroke from my head hitting the door post. I am not allowed to turn > wrenches, or better said I am not allowed to bend in the right ways to > turn wrenches.... > > If you use the meter on 20 volts, check the two battery posts with the > engine running, then move the meter probes to the clamps one at a time > and see if the volts drop. > > Then have the red meter probe on the positive and go to the alternator > case, the volts must be 'exactly' the same. > > Then hold the black meter probe on the neg post and go to the red bolt > on the alternator, then back to the solenoid bolt, then to the solenoid > wire cable loop, then to the red wire clamp on the battery. > > If the voltage drops even 0.01 volts, the connection is bad. > > Mike > > travis wrote: > > > > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain > > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: > > > > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished > > >up) fan belt. > > > > The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your > > suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that > > should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've > > changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years > > but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the > > main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank > > you for the suggestion. > > > > > > > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There > > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a > > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the > > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the > > >rubber case is cooked. > > > > > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and > > >alternator. > > > > > >Mike > > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > >travis wrote: > > >> > > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > > >> you. > > >> > > >> -- > > >> Travis > > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > > >> :wq! > > > > -- > > Travis > > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
Hi Mike,
Really sorry to hear of your accident. Get well friend. Coincidentally, I've got the same thing happening with the sentra. I know it's sort of off topic, but along the same line. It left my wife walkin' the other day. When I got to where the car was it was dead dead. I pulled the battery and put it on my charger until topped off. Went to the car started it, got it home. Checked my connections with and without engine running. I know this is not the best thing to do, but I disconnected the negative battery terminal, with the engine on, and it died. Mind you, this is the second alternator to crap in this vehicle. This one only lasted 8 months! Strange? The odd thing this time was that red idiot light on the dash was not lit up like it was when the original one died. Could this be because the battery was nearly full? Only had to drive it about a mile and half. My wife couldn't remember or didn't notice a red light on. Fortunately, this has a lifetime warrantee and Auto Zone handed over a replacement without question. Pretty impressed. They had all my warrantee info in their computer system. Didn't need the receipt even though I had it with me. -- Thanks Always !!! Paul '75 CJ5 258 Vail, CO. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:3FA990EA.7BB2DACC@sympatico.ca... > GM ones have a 3rd 'excite' wire to turn on the alternator. > > It is a thin (usually brown) solid core wire that tags the coil power > wire on the 12 volt side of the coil's ballast resistor or ballast wire > in the CJ's. On the CJ's it tags the harness right to the passenger > side of the brake booster. > > When I turn my current alternator pulley, did it today, the crank turns > too. > > I have a really swingy alternator volt gauge right now and have a > voltage drop from the battery center post to the alternator red wire. > It also drops at the solenoid bolt and on the red wire's O ring and the > red wire where it goes into the cable clamp on the battery. If I put > the meter on the positive cable clamp, I have no drop, so the connection > between the clamp and the main wire is toast which kills my battery > pretty fast. > > I just keep on charging up my battery because I am not in good enough > physical shape right now to take the sucker apart and clean it. I am in > recovery from a nasty car accident I was a passenger in. T-bone hit on > the passenger door where I was sitting. Physiotherapy says I am lucky I > have a 19.5" neck or it likely would have been broken and I have had a > stroke from my head hitting the door post. I am not allowed to turn > wrenches, or better said I am not allowed to bend in the right ways to > turn wrenches.... > > If you use the meter on 20 volts, check the two battery posts with the > engine running, then move the meter probes to the clamps one at a time > and see if the volts drop. > > Then have the red meter probe on the positive and go to the alternator > case, the volts must be 'exactly' the same. > > Then hold the black meter probe on the neg post and go to the red bolt > on the alternator, then back to the solenoid bolt, then to the solenoid > wire cable loop, then to the red wire clamp on the battery. > > If the voltage drops even 0.01 volts, the connection is bad. > > Mike > > travis wrote: > > > > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain > > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: > > > > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished > > >up) fan belt. > > > > The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your > > suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that > > should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've > > changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years > > but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the > > main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank > > you for the suggestion. > > > > > > > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There > > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a > > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the > > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the > > >rubber case is cooked. > > > > > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and > > >alternator. > > > > > >Mike > > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > >travis wrote: > > >> > > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > > >> you. > > >> > > >> -- > > >> Travis > > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > > >> :wq! > > > > -- > > Travis > > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
Hi Mike,
Really sorry to hear of your accident. Get well friend. Coincidentally, I've got the same thing happening with the sentra. I know it's sort of off topic, but along the same line. It left my wife walkin' the other day. When I got to where the car was it was dead dead. I pulled the battery and put it on my charger until topped off. Went to the car started it, got it home. Checked my connections with and without engine running. I know this is not the best thing to do, but I disconnected the negative battery terminal, with the engine on, and it died. Mind you, this is the second alternator to crap in this vehicle. This one only lasted 8 months! Strange? The odd thing this time was that red idiot light on the dash was not lit up like it was when the original one died. Could this be because the battery was nearly full? Only had to drive it about a mile and half. My wife couldn't remember or didn't notice a red light on. Fortunately, this has a lifetime warrantee and Auto Zone handed over a replacement without question. Pretty impressed. They had all my warrantee info in their computer system. Didn't need the receipt even though I had it with me. -- Thanks Always !!! Paul '75 CJ5 258 Vail, CO. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:3FA990EA.7BB2DACC@sympatico.ca... > GM ones have a 3rd 'excite' wire to turn on the alternator. > > It is a thin (usually brown) solid core wire that tags the coil power > wire on the 12 volt side of the coil's ballast resistor or ballast wire > in the CJ's. On the CJ's it tags the harness right to the passenger > side of the brake booster. > > When I turn my current alternator pulley, did it today, the crank turns > too. > > I have a really swingy alternator volt gauge right now and have a > voltage drop from the battery center post to the alternator red wire. > It also drops at the solenoid bolt and on the red wire's O ring and the > red wire where it goes into the cable clamp on the battery. If I put > the meter on the positive cable clamp, I have no drop, so the connection > between the clamp and the main wire is toast which kills my battery > pretty fast. > > I just keep on charging up my battery because I am not in good enough > physical shape right now to take the sucker apart and clean it. I am in > recovery from a nasty car accident I was a passenger in. T-bone hit on > the passenger door where I was sitting. Physiotherapy says I am lucky I > have a 19.5" neck or it likely would have been broken and I have had a > stroke from my head hitting the door post. I am not allowed to turn > wrenches, or better said I am not allowed to bend in the right ways to > turn wrenches.... > > If you use the meter on 20 volts, check the two battery posts with the > engine running, then move the meter probes to the clamps one at a time > and see if the volts drop. > > Then have the red meter probe on the positive and go to the alternator > case, the volts must be 'exactly' the same. > > Then hold the black meter probe on the neg post and go to the red bolt > on the alternator, then back to the solenoid bolt, then to the solenoid > wire cable loop, then to the red wire clamp on the battery. > > If the voltage drops even 0.01 volts, the connection is bad. > > Mike > > travis wrote: > > > > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain > > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: > > > > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished > > >up) fan belt. > > > > The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your > > suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that > > should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've > > changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years > > but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the > > main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank > > you for the suggestion. > > > > > > > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There > > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a > > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the > > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the > > >rubber case is cooked. > > > > > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and > > >alternator. > > > > > >Mike > > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > >travis wrote: > > >> > > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > > >> you. > > >> > > >> -- > > >> Travis > > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > > >> :wq! > > > > -- > > Travis > > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished >up) fan belt. > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the >rubber case is cooked. > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and >alternator. Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/ > >Mike >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >travis wrote: >> >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank >> you. >> >> -- >> Travis >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. >> :wq! -- Travis http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished >up) fan belt. > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the >rubber case is cooked. > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and >alternator. Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/ > >Mike >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >travis wrote: >> >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank >> you. >> >> -- >> Travis >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. >> :wq! -- Travis http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished >up) fan belt. > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the >rubber case is cooked. > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and >alternator. Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/ > >Mike >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >travis wrote: >> >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank >> you. >> >> -- >> Travis >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. >> :wq! -- Travis http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
Travis,
If this is a '76 304, and it hasn't been rewired to another spec, yes, it should only have two wires, a large red wire running through the fusible link to the "+" battery terminal, and the green wire running to the field terminal. The alternator should ground through its housing to the mounting bracket on the engine. (Just a thought, you might try running a jumper wire from the alt housing to the negative terminal and see if it starts to charge. If so there's a grounding problem at the alt.) The regulator should have a black (ignition switched positive) wire at its terminal, a yellow (battery positive) wire at a terminal "40", and your green field wire at terminal 44. Check to see if there's 12v. at the black wire with the key on, and if there's 12v at the yellow wire at all times. Also, even though you repaired it, make sure there's continuity in the green wire to the alt. field. So, if all that passes muster and there's no voltage output from the alt then it sounds like either the new alt is toast, or more likely, the regulator is shot. Before I'd spend any more money I'd get the new alt tested just to be sure it's ok. Hope this helps! "travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:ij7qqvgdk777c2ri0vu1tdfagk5n9fh8dj@4ax.com... > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: > > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished > >up) fan belt. > > > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the > >rubber case is cooked. > > > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and > >alternator. > > Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/ > > > > >Mike > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > >travis wrote: > >> > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > >> you. > >> > >> -- > >> Travis > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > >> :wq! > > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
Travis,
If this is a '76 304, and it hasn't been rewired to another spec, yes, it should only have two wires, a large red wire running through the fusible link to the "+" battery terminal, and the green wire running to the field terminal. The alternator should ground through its housing to the mounting bracket on the engine. (Just a thought, you might try running a jumper wire from the alt housing to the negative terminal and see if it starts to charge. If so there's a grounding problem at the alt.) The regulator should have a black (ignition switched positive) wire at its terminal, a yellow (battery positive) wire at a terminal "40", and your green field wire at terminal 44. Check to see if there's 12v. at the black wire with the key on, and if there's 12v at the yellow wire at all times. Also, even though you repaired it, make sure there's continuity in the green wire to the alt. field. So, if all that passes muster and there's no voltage output from the alt then it sounds like either the new alt is toast, or more likely, the regulator is shot. Before I'd spend any more money I'd get the new alt tested just to be sure it's ok. Hope this helps! "travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:ij7qqvgdk777c2ri0vu1tdfagk5n9fh8dj@4ax.com... > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: > > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished > >up) fan belt. > > > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the > >rubber case is cooked. > > > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and > >alternator. > > Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/ > > > > >Mike > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > >travis wrote: > >> > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > >> you. > >> > >> -- > >> Travis > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > >> :wq! > > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
Re: My stupid Jeep question of the day
Travis,
If this is a '76 304, and it hasn't been rewired to another spec, yes, it should only have two wires, a large red wire running through the fusible link to the "+" battery terminal, and the green wire running to the field terminal. The alternator should ground through its housing to the mounting bracket on the engine. (Just a thought, you might try running a jumper wire from the alt housing to the negative terminal and see if it starts to charge. If so there's a grounding problem at the alt.) The regulator should have a black (ignition switched positive) wire at its terminal, a yellow (battery positive) wire at a terminal "40", and your green field wire at terminal 44. Check to see if there's 12v. at the black wire with the key on, and if there's 12v at the yellow wire at all times. Also, even though you repaired it, make sure there's continuity in the green wire to the alt. field. So, if all that passes muster and there's no voltage output from the alt then it sounds like either the new alt is toast, or more likely, the regulator is shot. Before I'd spend any more money I'd get the new alt tested just to be sure it's ok. Hope this helps! "travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:ij7qqvgdk777c2ri0vu1tdfagk5n9fh8dj@4ax.com... > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following: > > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished > >up) fan belt. > > > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the > >rubber case is cooked. > > > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and > >alternator. > > Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/ > > > > >Mike > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > >travis wrote: > >> > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator, > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again. > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank > >> you. > >> > >> -- > >> Travis > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > >> :wq! > > > -- > Travis > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it. > :wq! |
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