LO-OW oil pressure
 

Just got a 1989 Cherokee 4.0L with 240k. Oil pressure with a cold
start is in the 40 psi range, but after it's good and warm, drops to
about ~5 psi at idle in gear. Cruising at 50 with a warm engine, I'm
at about 25-30 psi. The range is about the same as my '91 (20-45psi,
up to 65ish when on the highway), just much further down the scale.
The sending unit was replaced last month and it's had 3000 mile oil
changes it's entire life, and I've got the stack of reciepts to back
that up. The past two years were with Castrol GTX High Mileage 10W30
and Mobil 1 filters. No wierd crank case noises, no valve tick,
nothing...nice, quiet, powerful.

So....does anyone know of anywhere that rents mechanical gauges so I
can test the actual pressure? I'm wondering if the sending unit is
just foobar'd. Seems anything else would have shown itself a while ago
now.

FWIW, the seller (my brother) sold/gave it to me because it got tapped
in the back and insurance totalled it. He did say that it's always had
that low of pressure, ever since he got it, but he's taken it from
Madison to Detroit and back at least 6 or 7 times in two years with no
problems.

-moitz-

Re: LO-OW oil pressure
 

Maybe it does read low, that's why people that think a lot of their
machine use aftermarket, oil and amp gauges by
http://www.stewartwarner.com/index1.html or http://autometer.com/ just
to be sure. I use 20/50 on my two cars with over three hundred thousand
miles, that have never had the heads removed.
Are you going fix the body damage, I'd double check the rear-end
alignment, considering they totaled it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

moitz wrote:
>
> Just got a 1989 Cherokee 4.0L with 240k. Oil pressure with a cold
> start is in the 40 psi range, but after it's good and warm, drops to
> about ~5 psi at idle in gear. Cruising at 50 with a warm engine, I'm
> at about 25-30 psi. The range is about the same as my '91 (20-45psi,
> up to 65ish when on the highway), just much further down the scale.
> The sending unit was replaced last month and it's had 3000 mile oil
> changes it's entire life, and I've got the stack of reciepts to back
> that up. The past two years were with Castrol GTX High Mileage 10W30
> and Mobil 1 filters. No wierd crank case noises, no valve tick,
> nothing...nice, quiet, powerful.
>
> So....does anyone know of anywhere that rents mechanical gauges so I
> can test the actual pressure? I'm wondering if the sending unit is
> just foobar'd. Seems anything else would have shown itself a while ago
> now.
>
> FWIW, the seller (my brother) sold/gave it to me because it got tapped
> in the back and insurance totalled it. He did say that it's always had
> that low of pressure, ever since he got it, but he's taken it from
> Madison to Detroit and back at least 6 or 7 times in two years with no
> problems.
>
> -moitz-

Re: LO-OW oil pressure
 

Maybe it does read low, that's why people that think a lot of their
machine use aftermarket, oil and amp gauges by
http://www.stewartwarner.com/index1.html or http://autometer.com/ just
to be sure. I use 20/50 on my two cars with over three hundred thousand
miles, that have never had the heads removed.
Are you going fix the body damage, I'd double check the rear-end
alignment, considering they totaled it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

moitz wrote:
>
> Just got a 1989 Cherokee 4.0L with 240k. Oil pressure with a cold
> start is in the 40 psi range, but after it's good and warm, drops to
> about ~5 psi at idle in gear. Cruising at 50 with a warm engine, I'm
> at about 25-30 psi. The range is about the same as my '91 (20-45psi,
> up to 65ish when on the highway), just much further down the scale.
> The sending unit was replaced last month and it's had 3000 mile oil
> changes it's entire life, and I've got the stack of reciepts to back
> that up. The past two years were with Castrol GTX High Mileage 10W30
> and Mobil 1 filters. No wierd crank case noises, no valve tick,
> nothing...nice, quiet, powerful.
>
> So....does anyone know of anywhere that rents mechanical gauges so I
> can test the actual pressure? I'm wondering if the sending unit is
> just foobar'd. Seems anything else would have shown itself a while ago
> now.
>
> FWIW, the seller (my brother) sold/gave it to me because it got tapped
> in the back and insurance totalled it. He did say that it's always had
> that low of pressure, ever since he got it, but he's taken it from
> Madison to Detroit and back at least 6 or 7 times in two years with no
> problems.
>
> -moitz-

Re: LO-OW oil pressure
 

Maybe it does read low, that's why people that think a lot of their
machine use aftermarket, oil and amp gauges by
http://www.stewartwarner.com/index1.html or http://autometer.com/ just
to be sure. I use 20/50 on my two cars with over three hundred thousand
miles, that have never had the heads removed.
Are you going fix the body damage, I'd double check the rear-end
alignment, considering they totaled it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

moitz wrote:
>
> Just got a 1989 Cherokee 4.0L with 240k. Oil pressure with a cold
> start is in the 40 psi range, but after it's good and warm, drops to
> about ~5 psi at idle in gear. Cruising at 50 with a warm engine, I'm
> at about 25-30 psi. The range is about the same as my '91 (20-45psi,
> up to 65ish when on the highway), just much further down the scale.
> The sending unit was replaced last month and it's had 3000 mile oil
> changes it's entire life, and I've got the stack of reciepts to back
> that up. The past two years were with Castrol GTX High Mileage 10W30
> and Mobil 1 filters. No wierd crank case noises, no valve tick,
> nothing...nice, quiet, powerful.
>
> So....does anyone know of anywhere that rents mechanical gauges so I
> can test the actual pressure? I'm wondering if the sending unit is
> just foobar'd. Seems anything else would have shown itself a while ago
> now.
>
> FWIW, the seller (my brother) sold/gave it to me because it got tapped
> in the back and insurance totalled it. He did say that it's always had
> that low of pressure, ever since he got it, but he's taken it from
> Madison to Detroit and back at least 6 or 7 times in two years with no
> problems.
>
> -moitz-

Re: LO-OW oil pressure
 

Maybe it does read low, that's why people that think a lot of their
machine use aftermarket, oil and amp gauges by
http://www.stewartwarner.com/index1.html or http://autometer.com/ just
to be sure. I use 20/50 on my two cars with over three hundred thousand
miles, that have never had the heads removed.
Are you going fix the body damage, I'd double check the rear-end
alignment, considering they totaled it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

moitz wrote:
>
> Just got a 1989 Cherokee 4.0L with 240k. Oil pressure with a cold
> start is in the 40 psi range, but after it's good and warm, drops to
> about ~5 psi at idle in gear. Cruising at 50 with a warm engine, I'm
> at about 25-30 psi. The range is about the same as my '91 (20-45psi,
> up to 65ish when on the highway), just much further down the scale.
> The sending unit was replaced last month and it's had 3000 mile oil
> changes it's entire life, and I've got the stack of reciepts to back
> that up. The past two years were with Castrol GTX High Mileage 10W30
> and Mobil 1 filters. No wierd crank case noises, no valve tick,
> nothing...nice, quiet, powerful.
>
> So....does anyone know of anywhere that rents mechanical gauges so I
> can test the actual pressure? I'm wondering if the sending unit is
> just foobar'd. Seems anything else would have shown itself a while ago
> now.
>
> FWIW, the seller (my brother) sold/gave it to me because it got tapped
> in the back and insurance totalled it. He did say that it's always had
> that low of pressure, ever since he got it, but he's taken it from
> Madison to Detroit and back at least 6 or 7 times in two years with no
> problems.
>
> -moitz-

Re: LO-OW oil pressure
 

Bill, thanks for the tips. I'll look into those.

As far as the body damage goes, the body shop decided that instead of
purchasing a fully optioned tailgate (tint, wiper, defrost) and simply
swapping lock cylinders, they were going to buy a used one and swap
EVERYTHING (lock cylinder, glass, interior trim panel, emblems, etc.)
to the tune of $200 for the gate, $500 for the miscellaneous parts
swapping and $700 for paint. I've had it in to a local shop and they
say the frame is a-okay. And yes, I will be fixing it. Slowly.

-moitz-

Re: LO-OW oil pressure
 

Bill, thanks for the tips. I'll look into those.

As far as the body damage goes, the body shop decided that instead of
purchasing a fully optioned tailgate (tint, wiper, defrost) and simply
swapping lock cylinders, they were going to buy a used one and swap
EVERYTHING (lock cylinder, glass, interior trim panel, emblems, etc.)
to the tune of $200 for the gate, $500 for the miscellaneous parts
swapping and $700 for paint. I've had it in to a local shop and they
say the frame is a-okay. And yes, I will be fixing it. Slowly.

-moitz-

Re: LO-OW oil pressure
 

Bill, thanks for the tips. I'll look into those.

As far as the body damage goes, the body shop decided that instead of
purchasing a fully optioned tailgate (tint, wiper, defrost) and simply
swapping lock cylinders, they were going to buy a used one and swap
EVERYTHING (lock cylinder, glass, interior trim panel, emblems, etc.)
to the tune of $200 for the gate, $500 for the miscellaneous parts
swapping and $700 for paint. I've had it in to a local shop and they
say the frame is a-okay. And yes, I will be fixing it. Slowly.

-moitz-

Re: LO-OW oil pressure
 

Bill, thanks for the tips. I'll look into those.

As far as the body damage goes, the body shop decided that instead of
purchasing a fully optioned tailgate (tint, wiper, defrost) and simply
swapping lock cylinders, they were going to buy a used one and swap
EVERYTHING (lock cylinder, glass, interior trim panel, emblems, etc.)
to the tune of $200 for the gate, $500 for the miscellaneous parts
swapping and $700 for paint. I've had it in to a local shop and they
say the frame is a-okay. And yes, I will be fixing it. Slowly.

-moitz-