http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/tech/align.htm

"Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:vkn8hjjhadehfa@corp.supernews.com...
> I suppose you're right, but if we want to be completely accurate we
measure
> toe with a tape measure, should we? ;-)
>
> I generally measure from the floor to the center of the hub, take that
> reading and make marks on both the front & rear insides of the sidewalls,
> then measure side to side on each. Frankly if it's within 1/8" either way,
> for this kind of shade tree technique, it's fine.
>
> I'd still say for his TJ he really needs to get it set up on a proper,
> calibrated alignment rack & set all 4 wheels properly. He didn't mention
his
> rear axle, but with the complexities of the TJs track arms, etc. this is
> just a good, prudent step to take. Can also dial out / in any driveline
> vibration while they're at it.
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vkn7tesi3hhd33@corp.supernews.com...
> > You can't measure from the sides of the tires because they can be
> different
> > by an amount greater than the measurement tolerance. If one wishes to do
a
> > driveway alignment, the mold seams in the tires must be the measurement
> > point because this point is in the same position all of the way around
the
> > tire.
> >
> > You can do a driveway alignment by measuring from the sides of the
tread,
> > but (like you said, George) the same locations must be used for each
check
> > and recheck, but if the mold mark in the center of the tire is used, you
> > don't have to measure from the exact same place on each check and
recheck
> > because the mold seams will always be straight. The tolerance for a
> correct
> > toe-in adjustment is less than 1/8th inch variance at the front
measuring
> > point and the rear measuring point, a molding error in the tread blocks
> > could be this amount and still get through the inspection process.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
> > news:vkmrats6qrl03a@corp.supernews.com...
> > > On leaf spring lifts this actually works fine. Just have to be precise
> as
> > to
> > > where you're measuring from on the sides of the tires. I did this on
my
> YJ
> > > after installing the Dynatrac 44 and the RE 4.5" lift. Later we put it
> on
> > an
> > > alignment rack to determine how much shim we needed to compensate for
> the
> > > longer shackles RE uses with their 4.5" kit. Toe turned out to be dead
> on
> > > the money (needed 2 degree shims to dial in the caster.)
> > >
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F4B66A8.B373BFF8@sympatico.ca...
> > > > Eyeballing?
> > > >
> > > > Forget that man.
> > > >
> > > > Use a tape measure and set it exact!
> > > >
> > > > I run BFG 33x9.5 muds and did my own alignment after all new front
end
> > > > parts and a lift.
> > > >
> > > > My tires are wearing perfectly still 3 years later.
> > > >
> > > > It is easy, find the mold seam in the tires and use that as the
> > > > measuring spot, then measure across as high as you can go in the
back
> > > > and the same height in the front, then adjust until you have about
> 1/16
> > > > less across the front to the back. (on my CJ7 anyway)
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Sean Prinz wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > The right answer is to take any vehicle in for a professional
> > alignment
> > > > > following a suspension lift. Let them adjust everything. If
> > something
> > > is
> > > > > out of spec and will lead to tire damage it is cheaper to fix now
> than
> > > > > waiting for the tires to fail. just eye-balling the toe in is not
> the
> > > best
> > > > > answer.
> > > > >
> > > > > Sean
> > > > > 99TJ
> > > > > 2KXJ
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > > news:3F4A46C0.5409C9FB@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Jeff Scramlin" <jscramlin@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:iT62b.7388$jY2.4311@newsread1.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> > > > > > > > I just installed a Tera 3T lift, RE adjustable front track
bar
> > and
> > > JKS
> > > > > > > > disconnects on my '01 TJ. (What a weekend of fun!) I did
> not
> > > > > install
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > dropped pitman arm as I've heard it's not needed for lifts
> under
> > > 4".
> > > > > I'm
> > > > > > > > getting ready to do check toe-in, but noticed my steering
> wheel
> > is
> > > > > almost
> > > > > > > > upside down. How can I fix this?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Jeff
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Your steering wheel should not have moved that far. I would be
> > > looking
> > > > > at
> > > > > > > the parts you changed to make sure they are installed right.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It will go back about a quarter turn as soon as it gets a good
off
> > > road
> > > > > > bouncing to loosen it up is my bet.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Steve Seppala adjusted his steering wheel straight after a 4"
lift
> > and
> > > > > > on the first good off road bounce run his wheel clocked off
close
> to
> > > 30
> > > > > > deg. He was sure something had let loose, but nope, it just
> settled
> > > in.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Jeff's suggested method is what everyone I know uses, and I've done it that
way for years myself. It is a superb method that works well and provides
accurate results. Do use the mold-marks Jeff mentions as measurement
points, it's the only way to get accurate and repeatable measurements.

It works well for me, especially in view of the fact I always get much
better than typical tire wear out of my big-a$$ tires.

Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
KC6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

"Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vknajqou2jv145@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:vkn8hjjhadehfa@corp.supernews.com...
> > I suppose you're right, but if we want to be completely accurate we
> measure
> > toe with a tape measure, should we? ;-)
> >
> Well no, but if we are going to do things with a stone axe and hammer,
> shouldn't we at least try to be accurate with our swing?
>
>
>
> > I generally measure from the floor to the center of the hub, take that
> > reading and make marks on both the front & rear insides of the
sidewalls,
> > then measure side to side on each. Frankly if it's within 1/8" either
way,
> > for this kind of shade tree technique, it's fine.
> >
> I get it. I simply measure from the 3:00 and 9:00 positions, or as close
as
> I can physically get taking the frame and other obsticles into
> consideration.
>
>
>
> > I'd still say for his TJ he really needs to get it set up on a proper,
> > calibrated alignment rack & set all 4 wheels properly. He didn't mention
> his
> > rear axle, but with the complexities of the TJs track arms, etc. this is
> > just a good, prudent step to take. Can also dial out / in any driveline
> > vibration while they're at it.
> >
>
> Yes, for his TJ, he needs to consider other things as well. I think that
> given his original question, he has something wrong if the steering wheel
is
> off by nearly 180°. (He did say the wheel was nearly upside down.) If he
had
> said that the steering wheel was off by the amount needed to make a lane
> change, then we could tell him the shadetree methods and be pretty sure he
> would be OK when he was done.
>
>
>
>
>

 

Jeff's suggested method is what everyone I know uses, and I've done it that
way for years myself. It is a superb method that works well and provides
accurate results. Do use the mold-marks Jeff mentions as measurement
points, it's the only way to get accurate and repeatable measurements.

It works well for me, especially in view of the fact I always get much
better than typical tire wear out of my big-a$$ tires.

Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
To email, remove 'me' from my email address
KC6TAY, PP-ASEL
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

"Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vknajqou2jv145@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:vkn8hjjhadehfa@corp.supernews.com...
> > I suppose you're right, but if we want to be completely accurate we
> measure
> > toe with a tape measure, should we? ;-)
> >
> Well no, but if we are going to do things with a stone axe and hammer,
> shouldn't we at least try to be accurate with our swing?
>
>
>
> > I generally measure from the floor to the center of the hub, take that
> > reading and make marks on both the front & rear insides of the
sidewalls,
> > then measure side to side on each. Frankly if it's within 1/8" either
way,
> > for this kind of shade tree technique, it's fine.
> >
> I get it. I simply measure from the 3:00 and 9:00 positions, or as close
as
> I can physically get taking the frame and other obsticles into
> consideration.
>
>
>
> > I'd still say for his TJ he really needs to get it set up on a proper,
> > calibrated alignment rack & set all 4 wheels properly. He didn't mention
> his
> > rear axle, but with the complexities of the TJs track arms, etc. this is
> > just a good, prudent step to take. Can also dial out / in any driveline
> > vibration while they're at it.
> >
>
> Yes, for his TJ, he needs to consider other things as well. I think that
> given his original question, he has something wrong if the steering wheel
is
> off by nearly 180°. (He did say the wheel was nearly upside down.) If he
had
> said that the steering wheel was off by the amount needed to make a lane
> change, then we could tell him the shadetree methods and be pretty sure he
> would be OK when he was done.
>
>
>
>
>