<snip> when i started
>>> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
>>> gas out very fast.
>> That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
>> adjustment is needed.
>>
>> It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
>>
>> The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
>> the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
>> punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
>> come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
>>
>> The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
>> around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
>>
>> I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
>> for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
>> setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
>>
>> If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
>> is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
>> engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
>>
>> Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
>> for more than a couple minutes.
>>
>> You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
>> sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> im actually starting to think that the cam was stuck somehow because
> when i moved it manualy the rpms dropped. thanks for the help with
> that. also, is there a way to adjust the air/fuel mixture without a
> gauge, i have a feeling its not set right due to the fact that i just
> got 28 miles from almost half a tank. i believe i know where the
> screws are to adjust it. theres two on the side closest to the front
> of the car towards the bottom of the carburetor, they also look like
> they are intentionly countersunk to prevent unwated movement. Im 90%
> sure its not the original carburetor so i doubt youll be able to tell
> me exactly where they are. but if there is a way cheaper than buying
> a gauge i would love to hear it
>

There is a computer adjusting the mixture via the O2 sensor and a POS
Ford emissions computer.

The mix screws down front are only for the idle and the base setup for
the carb. They are 'supposed' to be blocked off with a plug. They will
not affect gas mileage a lot.

You 'can' mess with the idle mix screws, but as soon as you get them out
of adjustment, the computer will kick in and adjust it back to where the
O2 sensor says it should be, Basically you can carefully look down the
carb and watch the pin at the center back of the carb move as you mess
with the idle mix screws. It should hover around half way out when the
mix is right.

You should also be able to see this pin move when you choke it a bit or
give it a bit of throttle. It moves in steps.

You 'really' don't want to start messing with the high speed mix inside
the carb.....

Has it ever passed emissions? Is all the emissions junk still on there?
Is it required where you live?

'I' can remove the emissions computer and still get all of them I have
done this to to pass emissions here in Canada easily, but I am really
good with carbs it would seem. Well, lots that call themselves
'mechanics' just plain don't believe no matter how may sets of pass
papers we show them but hey...

They just can't figure how a carb and engine can be tuned without a
computer running things, they don't know we used to do it all the time
in the analog days....

It is called the 'Nutter' bypass and is supposed to be for off road only
but with a few tricks it is fine for on road. It gives a sweet 25%
seat of the pants power boost with a red line of 4400 instead of 3500
and at least an extra 10 mph per gear. We also all get over 20 mpg with
them highway. Mine gets 11L/100km or about 23 mpg but it is light.

Mike

 

On May 16, 4:01 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> <snip> when i started
>
>
>
> >>> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> >>> gas out very fast.
> >> That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
> >> adjustment is needed.
>
> >> It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
>
> >> The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
> >> the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
> >> punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
> >> come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
>
> >> The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
> >> around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
>
> >> I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
> >> for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
> >> setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
>
> >> If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
> >> is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
> >> engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
>
> >> Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
> >> for more than a couple minutes.
>
> >> You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
> >> sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > im actually starting to think that the cam was stuck somehow because
> > when i moved it manualy the rpms dropped. thanks for the help with
> > that. also, is there a way to adjust the air/fuel mixture without a
> > gauge, i have a feeling its not set right due to the fact that i just
> > got 28 miles from almost half a tank. i believe i know where the
> > screws are to adjust it. theres two on the side closest to the front
> > of the car towards the bottom of the carburetor, they also look like
> > they are intentionly countersunk to prevent unwated movement. Im 90%
> > sure its not the original carburetor so i doubt youll be able to tell
> > me exactly where they are. but if there is a way cheaper than buying
> > a gauge i would love to hear it
>
> There is a computer adjusting the mixture via the O2 sensor and a POS
> Ford emissions computer.
>
> The mix screws down front are only for the idle and the base setup for
> the carb. They are 'supposed' to be blocked off with a plug. They will
> not affect gas mileage a lot.
>
> You 'can' mess with the idle mix screws, but as soon as you get them out
> of adjustment, the computer will kick in and adjust it back to where the
> O2 sensor says it should be, Basically you can carefully look down the
> carb and watch the pin at the center back of the carb move as you mess
> with the idle mix screws. It should hover around half way out when the
> mix is right.
>
> You should also be able to see this pin move when you choke it a bit or
> give it a bit of throttle. It moves in steps.
>
> You 'really' don't want to start messing with the high speed mix inside
> the carb.....
>
> Has it ever passed emissions? Is all the emissions junk still on there?
> Is it required where you live?
>
> 'I' can remove the emissions computer and still get all of them I have
> done this to to pass emissions here in Canada easily, but I am really
> good with carbs it would seem. Well, lots that call themselves
> 'mechanics' just plain don't believe no matter how may sets of pass
> papers we show them but hey...
>
> They just can't figure how a carb and engine can be tuned without a
> computer running things, they don't know we used to do it all the time
> in the analog days....
>
> It is called the 'Nutter' bypass and is supposed to be for off road only
> but with a few tricks it is fine for on road. It gives a sweet 25%
> seat of the pants power boost with a red line of 4400 instead of 3500
> and at least an extra 10 mph per gear. We also all get over 20 mpg with
> them highway. Mine gets 11L/100km or about 23 mpg but it is light.
>
> Mike

Now attach the disconnected vacuum line from the distributor to a tee
that you will have to install in the the ported vacuum line. The
ported vacuum line is attached to a fitting on the BBD carburetor
located on the side towards the valve cover, about 1/2 way up the
carb......could you explain this to me in an easier way

 

On May 16, 4:01 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> <snip> when i started
>
>
>
> >>> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> >>> gas out very fast.
> >> That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
> >> adjustment is needed.
>
> >> It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
>
> >> The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
> >> the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
> >> punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
> >> come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
>
> >> The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
> >> around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
>
> >> I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
> >> for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
> >> setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
>
> >> If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
> >> is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
> >> engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
>
> >> Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
> >> for more than a couple minutes.
>
> >> You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
> >> sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > im actually starting to think that the cam was stuck somehow because
> > when i moved it manualy the rpms dropped. thanks for the help with
> > that. also, is there a way to adjust the air/fuel mixture without a
> > gauge, i have a feeling its not set right due to the fact that i just
> > got 28 miles from almost half a tank. i believe i know where the
> > screws are to adjust it. theres two on the side closest to the front
> > of the car towards the bottom of the carburetor, they also look like
> > they are intentionly countersunk to prevent unwated movement. Im 90%
> > sure its not the original carburetor so i doubt youll be able to tell
> > me exactly where they are. but if there is a way cheaper than buying
> > a gauge i would love to hear it
>
> There is a computer adjusting the mixture via the O2 sensor and a POS
> Ford emissions computer.
>
> The mix screws down front are only for the idle and the base setup for
> the carb. They are 'supposed' to be blocked off with a plug. They will
> not affect gas mileage a lot.
>
> You 'can' mess with the idle mix screws, but as soon as you get them out
> of adjustment, the computer will kick in and adjust it back to where the
> O2 sensor says it should be, Basically you can carefully look down the
> carb and watch the pin at the center back of the carb move as you mess
> with the idle mix screws. It should hover around half way out when the
> mix is right.
>
> You should also be able to see this pin move when you choke it a bit or
> give it a bit of throttle. It moves in steps.
>
> You 'really' don't want to start messing with the high speed mix inside
> the carb.....
>
> Has it ever passed emissions? Is all the emissions junk still on there?
> Is it required where you live?
>
> 'I' can remove the emissions computer and still get all of them I have
> done this to to pass emissions here in Canada easily, but I am really
> good with carbs it would seem. Well, lots that call themselves
> 'mechanics' just plain don't believe no matter how may sets of pass
> papers we show them but hey...
>
> They just can't figure how a carb and engine can be tuned without a
> computer running things, they don't know we used to do it all the time
> in the analog days....
>
> It is called the 'Nutter' bypass and is supposed to be for off road only
> but with a few tricks it is fine for on road. It gives a sweet 25%
> seat of the pants power boost with a red line of 4400 instead of 3500
> and at least an extra 10 mph per gear. We also all get over 20 mpg with
> them highway. Mine gets 11L/100km or about 23 mpg but it is light.
>
> Mike

Now attach the disconnected vacuum line from the distributor to a tee
that you will have to install in the the ported vacuum line. The
ported vacuum line is attached to a fitting on the BBD carburetor
located on the side towards the valve cover, about 1/2 way up the
carb......could you explain this to me in an easier way

 

On May 16, 4:01 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> <snip> when i started
>
>
>
> >>> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> >>> gas out very fast.
> >> That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
> >> adjustment is needed.
>
> >> It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
>
> >> The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
> >> the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
> >> punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
> >> come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
>
> >> The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
> >> around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
>
> >> I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
> >> for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
> >> setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
>
> >> If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
> >> is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
> >> engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
>
> >> Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
> >> for more than a couple minutes.
>
> >> You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
> >> sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > im actually starting to think that the cam was stuck somehow because
> > when i moved it manualy the rpms dropped. thanks for the help with
> > that. also, is there a way to adjust the air/fuel mixture without a
> > gauge, i have a feeling its not set right due to the fact that i just
> > got 28 miles from almost half a tank. i believe i know where the
> > screws are to adjust it. theres two on the side closest to the front
> > of the car towards the bottom of the carburetor, they also look like
> > they are intentionly countersunk to prevent unwated movement. Im 90%
> > sure its not the original carburetor so i doubt youll be able to tell
> > me exactly where they are. but if there is a way cheaper than buying
> > a gauge i would love to hear it
>
> There is a computer adjusting the mixture via the O2 sensor and a POS
> Ford emissions computer.
>
> The mix screws down front are only for the idle and the base setup for
> the carb. They are 'supposed' to be blocked off with a plug. They will
> not affect gas mileage a lot.
>
> You 'can' mess with the idle mix screws, but as soon as you get them out
> of adjustment, the computer will kick in and adjust it back to where the
> O2 sensor says it should be, Basically you can carefully look down the
> carb and watch the pin at the center back of the carb move as you mess
> with the idle mix screws. It should hover around half way out when the
> mix is right.
>
> You should also be able to see this pin move when you choke it a bit or
> give it a bit of throttle. It moves in steps.
>
> You 'really' don't want to start messing with the high speed mix inside
> the carb.....
>
> Has it ever passed emissions? Is all the emissions junk still on there?
> Is it required where you live?
>
> 'I' can remove the emissions computer and still get all of them I have
> done this to to pass emissions here in Canada easily, but I am really
> good with carbs it would seem. Well, lots that call themselves
> 'mechanics' just plain don't believe no matter how may sets of pass
> papers we show them but hey...
>
> They just can't figure how a carb and engine can be tuned without a
> computer running things, they don't know we used to do it all the time
> in the analog days....
>
> It is called the 'Nutter' bypass and is supposed to be for off road only
> but with a few tricks it is fine for on road. It gives a sweet 25%
> seat of the pants power boost with a red line of 4400 instead of 3500
> and at least an extra 10 mph per gear. We also all get over 20 mpg with
> them highway. Mine gets 11L/100km or about 23 mpg but it is light.
>
> Mike

Now attach the disconnected vacuum line from the distributor to a tee
that you will have to install in the the ported vacuum line. The
ported vacuum line is attached to a fitting on the BBD carburetor
located on the side towards the valve cover, about 1/2 way up the
carb......could you explain this to me in an easier way

 

On May 16, 4:01 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> <snip> when i started
>
>
>
> >>> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> >>> gas out very fast.
> >> That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
> >> adjustment is needed.
>
> >> It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
>
> >> The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
> >> the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
> >> punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
> >> come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
>
> >> The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
> >> around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
>
> >> I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
> >> for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
> >> setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
>
> >> If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
> >> is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
> >> engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
>
> >> Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
> >> for more than a couple minutes.
>
> >> You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
> >> sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > im actually starting to think that the cam was stuck somehow because
> > when i moved it manualy the rpms dropped. thanks for the help with
> > that. also, is there a way to adjust the air/fuel mixture without a
> > gauge, i have a feeling its not set right due to the fact that i just
> > got 28 miles from almost half a tank. i believe i know where the
> > screws are to adjust it. theres two on the side closest to the front
> > of the car towards the bottom of the carburetor, they also look like
> > they are intentionly countersunk to prevent unwated movement. Im 90%
> > sure its not the original carburetor so i doubt youll be able to tell
> > me exactly where they are. but if there is a way cheaper than buying
> > a gauge i would love to hear it
>
> There is a computer adjusting the mixture via the O2 sensor and a POS
> Ford emissions computer.
>
> The mix screws down front are only for the idle and the base setup for
> the carb. They are 'supposed' to be blocked off with a plug. They will
> not affect gas mileage a lot.
>
> You 'can' mess with the idle mix screws, but as soon as you get them out
> of adjustment, the computer will kick in and adjust it back to where the
> O2 sensor says it should be, Basically you can carefully look down the
> carb and watch the pin at the center back of the carb move as you mess
> with the idle mix screws. It should hover around half way out when the
> mix is right.
>
> You should also be able to see this pin move when you choke it a bit or
> give it a bit of throttle. It moves in steps.
>
> You 'really' don't want to start messing with the high speed mix inside
> the carb.....
>
> Has it ever passed emissions? Is all the emissions junk still on there?
> Is it required where you live?
>
> 'I' can remove the emissions computer and still get all of them I have
> done this to to pass emissions here in Canada easily, but I am really
> good with carbs it would seem. Well, lots that call themselves
> 'mechanics' just plain don't believe no matter how may sets of pass
> papers we show them but hey...
>
> They just can't figure how a carb and engine can be tuned without a
> computer running things, they don't know we used to do it all the time
> in the analog days....
>
> It is called the 'Nutter' bypass and is supposed to be for off road only
> but with a few tricks it is fine for on road. It gives a sweet 25%
> seat of the pants power boost with a red line of 4400 instead of 3500
> and at least an extra 10 mph per gear. We also all get over 20 mpg with
> them highway. Mine gets 11L/100km or about 23 mpg but it is light.
>
> Mike

Now attach the disconnected vacuum line from the distributor to a tee
that you will have to install in the the ported vacuum line. The
ported vacuum line is attached to a fitting on the BBD carburetor
located on the side towards the valve cover, about 1/2 way up the
carb......could you explain this to me in an easier way