Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> 88yj wrote: >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio >>>> and... anyway. >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad. >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. >>>> Mike >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>>> 88yj wrote: >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear. >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed? >> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up? >> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high. >> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It >> should be affected by the engine warming up too. >> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working >> near any? >> >> Mike- Hide quoted text - >> >> - Show quoted text - > > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines > I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray. Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter without starting it to verify the choke is closed. I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and agree the basics should be looked at before messing around. Mike |
Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> 88yj wrote: >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio >>>> and... anyway. >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad. >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. >>>> Mike >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>>> 88yj wrote: >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear. >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed? >> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up? >> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high. >> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It >> should be affected by the engine warming up too. >> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working >> near any? >> >> Mike- Hide quoted text - >> >> - Show quoted text - > > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines > I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray. Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter without starting it to verify the choke is closed. I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and agree the basics should be looked at before messing around. Mike |
Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> 88yj wrote: >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio >>>> and... anyway. >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad. >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. >>>> Mike >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>>> 88yj wrote: >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear. >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed? >> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up? >> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high. >> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It >> should be affected by the engine warming up too. >> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working >> near any? >> >> Mike- Hide quoted text - >> >> - Show quoted text - > > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines > I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray. Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter without starting it to verify the choke is closed. I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and agree the basics should be looked at before messing around. Mike |
Re: high idle
On May 13, 10:01 pm, MikeChamb...@webtv.net (Mike chambers) wrote:
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it > and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it > on. It is fine with out it. > > Later Mike would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt it too? |
Re: high idle
On May 13, 10:01 pm, MikeChamb...@webtv.net (Mike chambers) wrote:
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it > and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it > on. It is fine with out it. > > Later Mike would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt it too? |
Re: high idle
On May 13, 10:01 pm, MikeChamb...@webtv.net (Mike chambers) wrote:
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it > and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it > on. It is fine with out it. > > Later Mike would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt it too? |
Re: high idle
On May 13, 10:01 pm, MikeChamb...@webtv.net (Mike chambers) wrote:
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it > and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it > on. It is fine with out it. > > Later Mike would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt it too? |
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote: > > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >> 88yj wrote: > >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just > >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost > >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen > >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio > >>>> and... anyway. > >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine > >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad. > >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would > >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... > >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. > >>>> Mike > >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>>> 88yj wrote: > >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at > >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 > >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the > >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear > >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms > >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. > >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there > >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a > >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming > >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open > >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. > >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. > >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear. > >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed? > > >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up? > > >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high. > > >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an > >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It > >> should be affected by the engine warming up too. > > >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working > >> near any? > > >> Mike- Hide quoted text - > > >> - Show quoted text - > > > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my > > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines > > I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being > stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray. > > Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the > throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter > without starting it to verify the choke is closed. > > I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and > agree the basics should be looked at before messing around. > > Mike- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit gas out very fast. |
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote: > > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >> 88yj wrote: > >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just > >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost > >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen > >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio > >>>> and... anyway. > >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine > >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad. > >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would > >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... > >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. > >>>> Mike > >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>>> 88yj wrote: > >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at > >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 > >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the > >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear > >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms > >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. > >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there > >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a > >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming > >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open > >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. > >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. > >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear. > >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed? > > >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up? > > >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high. > > >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an > >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It > >> should be affected by the engine warming up too. > > >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working > >> near any? > > >> Mike- Hide quoted text - > > >> - Show quoted text - > > > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my > > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines > > I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being > stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray. > > Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the > throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter > without starting it to verify the choke is closed. > > I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and > agree the basics should be looked at before messing around. > > Mike- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit gas out very fast. |
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote: > > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >> 88yj wrote: > >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just > >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost > >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen > >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio > >>>> and... anyway. > >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine > >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad. > >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would > >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal... > >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them. > >>>> Mike > >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >>>> 88yj wrote: > >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at > >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000 > >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the > >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear > >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms > >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine. > >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there > >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a > >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming > >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open > >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6. > >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated. > >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear. > >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed? > > >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up? > > >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high. > > >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an > >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It > >> should be affected by the engine warming up too. > > >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working > >> near any? > > >> Mike- Hide quoted text - > > >> - Show quoted text - > > > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my > > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines > > I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being > stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray. > > Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the > throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter > without starting it to verify the choke is closed. > > I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and > agree the basics should be looked at before messing around. > > Mike- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit gas out very fast. |
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