Here come the rear corners..
Hi all,
Well, I have a pair of steel rear corners coming next week and I've been taking a good look at the back end of my 93 YJ in preparation for the drilling and clamping to come, and I've been thinking, "Damn.. what did I get myself into this time?" Any advice for a first-timer? I figure if all goes well I'll put some rockers on the rig next and then go from there, but this is my jeep's first modification.. should I expect any surprises? Thanks everyone.. |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
It is pretty straight forward just clamp them on drill a hole and bolt them
up tight. I did put some silicone behind them to seal them and then ran a bead around the edges. I have hardly hit the corners since I installed them, but it is nice to know they are there. Jim F. -- "I refuse to belong to any group that would have me as a member" Groucho Marx Member of the original dirty half dozen. http://www.users.qwest.net/~jkflorence/ "Saigoncal1" <saigoncal1@aol.comspamoff> wrote in message news:20031015110831.19455.00000442@mb-m07.aol.com... > Hi all, > > Well, I have a pair of steel rear corners coming next week and I've been taking > a good look at the back end of my 93 YJ in preparation for the drilling and > clamping to come, and I've been thinking, "Damn.. what did I get myself into > this time?" > > Any advice for a first-timer? I figure if all goes well I'll put some rockers > on the rig next and then go from there, but this is my jeep's first > modification.. should I expect any surprises? > > Thanks everyone.. |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
It is pretty straight forward just clamp them on drill a hole and bolt them
up tight. I did put some silicone behind them to seal them and then ran a bead around the edges. I have hardly hit the corners since I installed them, but it is nice to know they are there. Jim F. -- "I refuse to belong to any group that would have me as a member" Groucho Marx Member of the original dirty half dozen. http://www.users.qwest.net/~jkflorence/ "Saigoncal1" <saigoncal1@aol.comspamoff> wrote in message news:20031015110831.19455.00000442@mb-m07.aol.com... > Hi all, > > Well, I have a pair of steel rear corners coming next week and I've been taking > a good look at the back end of my 93 YJ in preparation for the drilling and > clamping to come, and I've been thinking, "Damn.. what did I get myself into > this time?" > > Any advice for a first-timer? I figure if all goes well I'll put some rockers > on the rig next and then go from there, but this is my jeep's first > modification.. should I expect any surprises? > > Thanks everyone.. |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
It is pretty straight forward just clamp them on drill a hole and bolt them
up tight. I did put some silicone behind them to seal them and then ran a bead around the edges. I have hardly hit the corners since I installed them, but it is nice to know they are there. Jim F. -- "I refuse to belong to any group that would have me as a member" Groucho Marx Member of the original dirty half dozen. http://www.users.qwest.net/~jkflorence/ "Saigoncal1" <saigoncal1@aol.comspamoff> wrote in message news:20031015110831.19455.00000442@mb-m07.aol.com... > Hi all, > > Well, I have a pair of steel rear corners coming next week and I've been taking > a good look at the back end of my 93 YJ in preparation for the drilling and > clamping to come, and I've been thinking, "Damn.. what did I get myself into > this time?" > > Any advice for a first-timer? I figure if all goes well I'll put some rockers > on the rig next and then go from there, but this is my jeep's first > modification.. should I expect any surprises? > > Thanks everyone.. |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
I have often wondered what is best as far as the silicone... seal it up and
trap in moisture or none at all so it drains and dries. -- JimG 80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries "Hackle" <nrlystk@qwest.net> wrote in message news:hkkjb.1477$aj1.67424@news.uswest.net... > It is pretty straight forward just clamp them on drill a hole and bolt them > up tight. I did put some silicone behind them to seal them and then ran a > bead around the edges. I have hardly hit the corners since I installed them, > but it is nice to know they are there. Jim F. > > -- > "I refuse to belong to any group that would have me as a member" Groucho > Marx > Member of the original dirty half dozen. > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jkflorence/ > "Saigoncal1" <saigoncal1@aol.comspamoff> wrote in message > news:20031015110831.19455.00000442@mb-m07.aol.com... > > Hi all, > > > > Well, I have a pair of steel rear corners coming next week and I've been > taking > > a good look at the back end of my 93 YJ in preparation for the drilling > and > > clamping to come, and I've been thinking, "Damn.. what did I get myself > into > > this time?" > > > > Any advice for a first-timer? I figure if all goes well I'll put some > rockers > > on the rig next and then go from there, but this is my jeep's first > > modification.. should I expect any surprises? > > > > Thanks everyone.. > > |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
I have often wondered what is best as far as the silicone... seal it up and
trap in moisture or none at all so it drains and dries. -- JimG 80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries "Hackle" <nrlystk@qwest.net> wrote in message news:hkkjb.1477$aj1.67424@news.uswest.net... > It is pretty straight forward just clamp them on drill a hole and bolt them > up tight. I did put some silicone behind them to seal them and then ran a > bead around the edges. I have hardly hit the corners since I installed them, > but it is nice to know they are there. Jim F. > > -- > "I refuse to belong to any group that would have me as a member" Groucho > Marx > Member of the original dirty half dozen. > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jkflorence/ > "Saigoncal1" <saigoncal1@aol.comspamoff> wrote in message > news:20031015110831.19455.00000442@mb-m07.aol.com... > > Hi all, > > > > Well, I have a pair of steel rear corners coming next week and I've been > taking > > a good look at the back end of my 93 YJ in preparation for the drilling > and > > clamping to come, and I've been thinking, "Damn.. what did I get myself > into > > this time?" > > > > Any advice for a first-timer? I figure if all goes well I'll put some > rockers > > on the rig next and then go from there, but this is my jeep's first > > modification.. should I expect any surprises? > > > > Thanks everyone.. > > |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
I have often wondered what is best as far as the silicone... seal it up and
trap in moisture or none at all so it drains and dries. -- JimG 80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries "Hackle" <nrlystk@qwest.net> wrote in message news:hkkjb.1477$aj1.67424@news.uswest.net... > It is pretty straight forward just clamp them on drill a hole and bolt them > up tight. I did put some silicone behind them to seal them and then ran a > bead around the edges. I have hardly hit the corners since I installed them, > but it is nice to know they are there. Jim F. > > -- > "I refuse to belong to any group that would have me as a member" Groucho > Marx > Member of the original dirty half dozen. > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jkflorence/ > "Saigoncal1" <saigoncal1@aol.comspamoff> wrote in message > news:20031015110831.19455.00000442@mb-m07.aol.com... > > Hi all, > > > > Well, I have a pair of steel rear corners coming next week and I've been > taking > > a good look at the back end of my 93 YJ in preparation for the drilling > and > > clamping to come, and I've been thinking, "Damn.. what did I get myself > into > > this time?" > > > > Any advice for a first-timer? I figure if all goes well I'll put some > rockers > > on the rig next and then go from there, but this is my jeep's first > > modification.. should I expect any surprises? > > > > Thanks everyone.. > > |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
If I wanted to load my Jeep down with garage, I think I'd
completely silicone it on, no air pockets, much like the rubber door bumpers that go around passenger cars are now. And like the cars, I tried to get away without bolting them. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ JimG wrote: > > I have often wondered what is best as far as the silicone... seal it up and > trap in moisture or none at all so it drains and dries. > > -- > JimG > 80' CJ-7 258 CID > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
If I wanted to load my Jeep down with garage, I think I'd
completely silicone it on, no air pockets, much like the rubber door bumpers that go around passenger cars are now. And like the cars, I tried to get away without bolting them. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ JimG wrote: > > I have often wondered what is best as far as the silicone... seal it up and > trap in moisture or none at all so it drains and dries. > > -- > JimG > 80' CJ-7 258 CID > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
If I wanted to load my Jeep down with garage, I think I'd
completely silicone it on, no air pockets, much like the rubber door bumpers that go around passenger cars are now. And like the cars, I tried to get away without bolting them. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ JimG wrote: > > I have often wondered what is best as far as the silicone... seal it up and > trap in moisture or none at all so it drains and dries. > > -- > JimG > 80' CJ-7 258 CID > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
Assuming the rear corners are metal.....
There's nothing good to be had from not grounding metals to metals. Molding is plastic, thus nonconductive, and will be fine not being electrically grounded to the vehicle ground. With metals, isolating them from a ground can cause cathodic action and actually invite corrosion. Especially if there is ferrous and non ferrous metals involved such as aluminum diamond plate and steel. Bolting with zinc chromate paste (anti seize) as the medium is highly recommended. Cherrs! Perry 87YJ L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote: > If I wanted to load my Jeep down with garage, I think I'd > completely silicone it on, no air pockets, much like the rubber door > bumpers that go around passenger cars are now. And like the cars, I > tried to get away without bolting them. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > JimG wrote: > >>I have often wondered what is best as far as the silicone... seal it up and >>trap in moisture or none at all so it drains and dries. >> >>-- >>JimG >>80' CJ-7 258 CID >>35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines >>D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA >>4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R >>Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks >>Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries > |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
Assuming the rear corners are metal.....
There's nothing good to be had from not grounding metals to metals. Molding is plastic, thus nonconductive, and will be fine not being electrically grounded to the vehicle ground. With metals, isolating them from a ground can cause cathodic action and actually invite corrosion. Especially if there is ferrous and non ferrous metals involved such as aluminum diamond plate and steel. Bolting with zinc chromate paste (anti seize) as the medium is highly recommended. Cherrs! Perry 87YJ L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote: > If I wanted to load my Jeep down with garage, I think I'd > completely silicone it on, no air pockets, much like the rubber door > bumpers that go around passenger cars are now. And like the cars, I > tried to get away without bolting them. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > JimG wrote: > >>I have often wondered what is best as far as the silicone... seal it up and >>trap in moisture or none at all so it drains and dries. >> >>-- >>JimG >>80' CJ-7 258 CID >>35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines >>D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA >>4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R >>Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks >>Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries > |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
Assuming the rear corners are metal.....
There's nothing good to be had from not grounding metals to metals. Molding is plastic, thus nonconductive, and will be fine not being electrically grounded to the vehicle ground. With metals, isolating them from a ground can cause cathodic action and actually invite corrosion. Especially if there is ferrous and non ferrous metals involved such as aluminum diamond plate and steel. Bolting with zinc chromate paste (anti seize) as the medium is highly recommended. Cherrs! Perry 87YJ L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote: > If I wanted to load my Jeep down with garage, I think I'd > completely silicone it on, no air pockets, much like the rubber door > bumpers that go around passenger cars are now. And like the cars, I > tried to get away without bolting them. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > JimG wrote: > >>I have often wondered what is best as far as the silicone... seal it up and >>trap in moisture or none at all so it drains and dries. >> >>-- >>JimG >>80' CJ-7 258 CID >>35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines >>D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA >>4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R >>Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks >>Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries > |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
"Perry Gagnon" <perry@nospam.perryshome.com> wrote in message news:3F8F70E3.90608@nospam.perryshome.com... > Assuming the rear corners are metal..... > There's nothing good to be had from not grounding metals to metals. > Molding is plastic, thus nonconductive, and will be fine not being > electrically grounded to the vehicle ground. With metals, isolating them > from a ground can cause cathodic action and actually invite corrosion. > Especially if there is ferrous and non ferrous metals involved such as > aluminum diamond plate and steel. Bolting with zinc chromate paste (anti > seize) as the medium is highly recommended. They ain't no zinc chromate in anti-seize... Credit Permatex's MSDS: <quote> 1. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION Product Name: 133AR ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT 1OZ Item No: 81343 Product Type: Lubricant 2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS Ingredients Percent ACGIH 8 Hr. TWA: OSHA 8 Hr. TWA: DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), HYDROTREATED HEAVY NAPHTHENIC 64742-52-5 50-60 5 mg/m3 mist 5 mg/m3 mist CALCIUM OXIDE 1305-78-8 15-25 2 mg/m3 5 mg/m3 ALUMINIUM POWDER (PYROPHORIC) 7429-90-5 5-15 metal dust, as Al: 10 mg/m3 TWA total dust, as Al: 15 mg/m3 TWA; respirable fraction, as Al: 5 mg/m3 TWA GRAPHITE 7782-42-5 1-10 2 mg/m3 TWA respir. 5 mg/m3 TWA respir.; 15mg/m3 total MINERAL OIL 64741-44-2 1-10 5 mg/m3 TWA 10 mg/m3 TWA LITHIUM SOAP 7620-77-1 1-10 SILICA, QUARTZ 14808-60-7 0.1-1.0 0.05 mg/m3 TWA respirable 0.1 mg/m3 TWA respirable </quote> Now try *noalox*... from ideal industries website MSDS: <quote> PRODUCT NAME OR NUMBER (as it appears on label) Noalox® Anti-Oxidant CATALOG NUMBER All "30" Series MANUFACTURER'S NAME IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NO. (815) 895-5181 ADDRESS (Number, Street, City, State, Zip Code) Becker Place, Sycamore, IL 60178 HAZARDOUS MATERIAL DESCRIPTION, PROPER SHIPPING NAME, HAZARD CLASS, HAZARD CLASS NO., HAZARD ID NO. (49 CFR 172.101) None CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Petroleum-Based Mixture FORMULA Proprietary SECTION I - INGREDIENTS CAS REGISTRY NO. %W CHEMICAL NAME(S)* Listed as a carcinogen in NTP, I ARC or OSHA 1910(z) (specify) 9003-29-6 <80 Polybutene No 7440-66-6 20 Zinc Dust No 7631-86-9 <5 Silicon Dioxide No </quote> No zinc chromate there... but much closer to what the original poster needs. At least it has zinc, and is marketed for the specific reason of prevention of electrolysis. __ Steve .. |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
"Perry Gagnon" <perry@nospam.perryshome.com> wrote in message news:3F8F70E3.90608@nospam.perryshome.com... > Assuming the rear corners are metal..... > There's nothing good to be had from not grounding metals to metals. > Molding is plastic, thus nonconductive, and will be fine not being > electrically grounded to the vehicle ground. With metals, isolating them > from a ground can cause cathodic action and actually invite corrosion. > Especially if there is ferrous and non ferrous metals involved such as > aluminum diamond plate and steel. Bolting with zinc chromate paste (anti > seize) as the medium is highly recommended. They ain't no zinc chromate in anti-seize... Credit Permatex's MSDS: <quote> 1. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION Product Name: 133AR ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT 1OZ Item No: 81343 Product Type: Lubricant 2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS Ingredients Percent ACGIH 8 Hr. TWA: OSHA 8 Hr. TWA: DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), HYDROTREATED HEAVY NAPHTHENIC 64742-52-5 50-60 5 mg/m3 mist 5 mg/m3 mist CALCIUM OXIDE 1305-78-8 15-25 2 mg/m3 5 mg/m3 ALUMINIUM POWDER (PYROPHORIC) 7429-90-5 5-15 metal dust, as Al: 10 mg/m3 TWA total dust, as Al: 15 mg/m3 TWA; respirable fraction, as Al: 5 mg/m3 TWA GRAPHITE 7782-42-5 1-10 2 mg/m3 TWA respir. 5 mg/m3 TWA respir.; 15mg/m3 total MINERAL OIL 64741-44-2 1-10 5 mg/m3 TWA 10 mg/m3 TWA LITHIUM SOAP 7620-77-1 1-10 SILICA, QUARTZ 14808-60-7 0.1-1.0 0.05 mg/m3 TWA respirable 0.1 mg/m3 TWA respirable </quote> Now try *noalox*... from ideal industries website MSDS: <quote> PRODUCT NAME OR NUMBER (as it appears on label) Noalox® Anti-Oxidant CATALOG NUMBER All "30" Series MANUFACTURER'S NAME IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NO. (815) 895-5181 ADDRESS (Number, Street, City, State, Zip Code) Becker Place, Sycamore, IL 60178 HAZARDOUS MATERIAL DESCRIPTION, PROPER SHIPPING NAME, HAZARD CLASS, HAZARD CLASS NO., HAZARD ID NO. (49 CFR 172.101) None CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Petroleum-Based Mixture FORMULA Proprietary SECTION I - INGREDIENTS CAS REGISTRY NO. %W CHEMICAL NAME(S)* Listed as a carcinogen in NTP, I ARC or OSHA 1910(z) (specify) 9003-29-6 <80 Polybutene No 7440-66-6 20 Zinc Dust No 7631-86-9 <5 Silicon Dioxide No </quote> No zinc chromate there... but much closer to what the original poster needs. At least it has zinc, and is marketed for the specific reason of prevention of electrolysis. __ Steve .. |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
"Perry Gagnon" <perry@nospam.perryshome.com> wrote in message news:3F8F70E3.90608@nospam.perryshome.com... > Assuming the rear corners are metal..... > There's nothing good to be had from not grounding metals to metals. > Molding is plastic, thus nonconductive, and will be fine not being > electrically grounded to the vehicle ground. With metals, isolating them > from a ground can cause cathodic action and actually invite corrosion. > Especially if there is ferrous and non ferrous metals involved such as > aluminum diamond plate and steel. Bolting with zinc chromate paste (anti > seize) as the medium is highly recommended. They ain't no zinc chromate in anti-seize... Credit Permatex's MSDS: <quote> 1. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION Product Name: 133AR ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT 1OZ Item No: 81343 Product Type: Lubricant 2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS Ingredients Percent ACGIH 8 Hr. TWA: OSHA 8 Hr. TWA: DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), HYDROTREATED HEAVY NAPHTHENIC 64742-52-5 50-60 5 mg/m3 mist 5 mg/m3 mist CALCIUM OXIDE 1305-78-8 15-25 2 mg/m3 5 mg/m3 ALUMINIUM POWDER (PYROPHORIC) 7429-90-5 5-15 metal dust, as Al: 10 mg/m3 TWA total dust, as Al: 15 mg/m3 TWA; respirable fraction, as Al: 5 mg/m3 TWA GRAPHITE 7782-42-5 1-10 2 mg/m3 TWA respir. 5 mg/m3 TWA respir.; 15mg/m3 total MINERAL OIL 64741-44-2 1-10 5 mg/m3 TWA 10 mg/m3 TWA LITHIUM SOAP 7620-77-1 1-10 SILICA, QUARTZ 14808-60-7 0.1-1.0 0.05 mg/m3 TWA respirable 0.1 mg/m3 TWA respirable </quote> Now try *noalox*... from ideal industries website MSDS: <quote> PRODUCT NAME OR NUMBER (as it appears on label) Noalox® Anti-Oxidant CATALOG NUMBER All "30" Series MANUFACTURER'S NAME IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NO. (815) 895-5181 ADDRESS (Number, Street, City, State, Zip Code) Becker Place, Sycamore, IL 60178 HAZARDOUS MATERIAL DESCRIPTION, PROPER SHIPPING NAME, HAZARD CLASS, HAZARD CLASS NO., HAZARD ID NO. (49 CFR 172.101) None CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Petroleum-Based Mixture FORMULA Proprietary SECTION I - INGREDIENTS CAS REGISTRY NO. %W CHEMICAL NAME(S)* Listed as a carcinogen in NTP, I ARC or OSHA 1910(z) (specify) 9003-29-6 <80 Polybutene No 7440-66-6 20 Zinc Dust No 7631-86-9 <5 Silicon Dioxide No </quote> No zinc chromate there... but much closer to what the original poster needs. At least it has zinc, and is marketed for the specific reason of prevention of electrolysis. __ Steve .. |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
Sorry, I beg to differ. I used it extensively in training folks on anti
corrosion in the US Navy where salt water was always prevalent. I agree there are other compounds but I'm partial to Zinc since it was (and still is) the military's (Milspec Mil-T-22361) choice of compound of my time. Military NSN: 8030-00-292-1102 Anti Seize compound is what I use and is still a common product today in the Navy to protect steel and aluminum components bolted on steel ships exposed to salt water. I'm not willing to try something new since I have had no corrosion apparent using this compound ever in the past 25 years. For a non military resource ref: http://www.astinfo.com/ The main point though for which we both agree was to not isolate the two metals electronically for fear of electrolysis or cathodic action which leads to corrosion. For anyone out there.... ever wonder why your cast aluminum fog lights corrode so quickly? It's the lack of good grounding and proper medium compounds to protect against it. Cheers! Perry PS. It works great on battery terminals too! Stephen Cowell wrote: > "Perry Gagnon" <perry@nospam.perryshome.com> wrote in message > news:3F8F70E3.90608@nospam.perryshome.com... > >>Assuming the rear corners are metal..... >>There's nothing good to be had from not grounding metals to metals. >>Molding is plastic, thus nonconductive, and will be fine not being >>electrically grounded to the vehicle ground. With metals, isolating them >>from a ground can cause cathodic action and actually invite corrosion. >>Especially if there is ferrous and non ferrous metals involved such as >>aluminum diamond plate and steel. Bolting with zinc chromate paste (anti >>seize) as the medium is highly recommended. > > > They ain't no zinc chromate in anti-seize... > > Credit Permatex's MSDS: > <quote> > 1. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION > Product Name: 133AR ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT 1OZ > Item No: 81343 > Product Type: Lubricant > 2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS > Ingredients Percent ACGIH 8 Hr. TWA: OSHA 8 Hr. TWA: > DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), > HYDROTREATED HEAVY > NAPHTHENIC > 64742-52-5 > 50-60 5 mg/m3 mist 5 mg/m3 mist > CALCIUM OXIDE > 1305-78-8 > 15-25 2 mg/m3 5 mg/m3 > ALUMINIUM POWDER > (PYROPHORIC) > 7429-90-5 > 5-15 metal dust, as Al: 10 mg/m3 TWA total dust, as Al: 15 mg/m3 TWA; > respirable > fraction, as Al: 5 mg/m3 TWA > GRAPHITE > 7782-42-5 > 1-10 2 mg/m3 TWA respir. 5 mg/m3 TWA respir.; 15mg/m3 total > MINERAL OIL > 64741-44-2 > 1-10 5 mg/m3 TWA 10 mg/m3 TWA > LITHIUM SOAP > 7620-77-1 > 1-10 > SILICA, QUARTZ > 14808-60-7 > 0.1-1.0 0.05 mg/m3 TWA respirable 0.1 mg/m3 TWA respirable > </quote> > > Now try *noalox*... from ideal industries website MSDS: > > <quote> > PRODUCT NAME OR NUMBER (as it appears on label) > Noalox® Anti-Oxidant > CATALOG NUMBER > All "30" Series > MANUFACTURER'S NAME > IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. > EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NO. > (815) 895-5181 > ADDRESS (Number, Street, City, State, Zip Code) > Becker Place, Sycamore, IL 60178 > HAZARDOUS MATERIAL DESCRIPTION, PROPER SHIPPING NAME, HAZARD CLASS, HAZARD > CLASS NO., HAZARD ID NO. (49 CFR 172.101) > None > CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION > Petroleum-Based Mixture > FORMULA > Proprietary > SECTION I - INGREDIENTS > CAS REGISTRY NO. %W CHEMICAL NAME(S)* > Listed as a carcinogen > in NTP, I ARC or OSHA > 1910(z) (specify) > 9003-29-6 <80 Polybutene No > 7440-66-6 20 Zinc Dust No > 7631-86-9 <5 Silicon Dioxide No > </quote> > > No zinc chromate there... but much closer to what the > original poster needs. At least it has zinc, and is marketed > for the specific reason of prevention of electrolysis. > __ > Steve > . > > |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
Sorry, I beg to differ. I used it extensively in training folks on anti
corrosion in the US Navy where salt water was always prevalent. I agree there are other compounds but I'm partial to Zinc since it was (and still is) the military's (Milspec Mil-T-22361) choice of compound of my time. Military NSN: 8030-00-292-1102 Anti Seize compound is what I use and is still a common product today in the Navy to protect steel and aluminum components bolted on steel ships exposed to salt water. I'm not willing to try something new since I have had no corrosion apparent using this compound ever in the past 25 years. For a non military resource ref: http://www.astinfo.com/ The main point though for which we both agree was to not isolate the two metals electronically for fear of electrolysis or cathodic action which leads to corrosion. For anyone out there.... ever wonder why your cast aluminum fog lights corrode so quickly? It's the lack of good grounding and proper medium compounds to protect against it. Cheers! Perry PS. It works great on battery terminals too! Stephen Cowell wrote: > "Perry Gagnon" <perry@nospam.perryshome.com> wrote in message > news:3F8F70E3.90608@nospam.perryshome.com... > >>Assuming the rear corners are metal..... >>There's nothing good to be had from not grounding metals to metals. >>Molding is plastic, thus nonconductive, and will be fine not being >>electrically grounded to the vehicle ground. With metals, isolating them >>from a ground can cause cathodic action and actually invite corrosion. >>Especially if there is ferrous and non ferrous metals involved such as >>aluminum diamond plate and steel. Bolting with zinc chromate paste (anti >>seize) as the medium is highly recommended. > > > They ain't no zinc chromate in anti-seize... > > Credit Permatex's MSDS: > <quote> > 1. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION > Product Name: 133AR ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT 1OZ > Item No: 81343 > Product Type: Lubricant > 2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS > Ingredients Percent ACGIH 8 Hr. TWA: OSHA 8 Hr. TWA: > DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), > HYDROTREATED HEAVY > NAPHTHENIC > 64742-52-5 > 50-60 5 mg/m3 mist 5 mg/m3 mist > CALCIUM OXIDE > 1305-78-8 > 15-25 2 mg/m3 5 mg/m3 > ALUMINIUM POWDER > (PYROPHORIC) > 7429-90-5 > 5-15 metal dust, as Al: 10 mg/m3 TWA total dust, as Al: 15 mg/m3 TWA; > respirable > fraction, as Al: 5 mg/m3 TWA > GRAPHITE > 7782-42-5 > 1-10 2 mg/m3 TWA respir. 5 mg/m3 TWA respir.; 15mg/m3 total > MINERAL OIL > 64741-44-2 > 1-10 5 mg/m3 TWA 10 mg/m3 TWA > LITHIUM SOAP > 7620-77-1 > 1-10 > SILICA, QUARTZ > 14808-60-7 > 0.1-1.0 0.05 mg/m3 TWA respirable 0.1 mg/m3 TWA respirable > </quote> > > Now try *noalox*... from ideal industries website MSDS: > > <quote> > PRODUCT NAME OR NUMBER (as it appears on label) > Noalox® Anti-Oxidant > CATALOG NUMBER > All "30" Series > MANUFACTURER'S NAME > IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. > EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NO. > (815) 895-5181 > ADDRESS (Number, Street, City, State, Zip Code) > Becker Place, Sycamore, IL 60178 > HAZARDOUS MATERIAL DESCRIPTION, PROPER SHIPPING NAME, HAZARD CLASS, HAZARD > CLASS NO., HAZARD ID NO. (49 CFR 172.101) > None > CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION > Petroleum-Based Mixture > FORMULA > Proprietary > SECTION I - INGREDIENTS > CAS REGISTRY NO. %W CHEMICAL NAME(S)* > Listed as a carcinogen > in NTP, I ARC or OSHA > 1910(z) (specify) > 9003-29-6 <80 Polybutene No > 7440-66-6 20 Zinc Dust No > 7631-86-9 <5 Silicon Dioxide No > </quote> > > No zinc chromate there... but much closer to what the > original poster needs. At least it has zinc, and is marketed > for the specific reason of prevention of electrolysis. > __ > Steve > . > > |
Re: Here come the rear corners..
Sorry, I beg to differ. I used it extensively in training folks on anti
corrosion in the US Navy where salt water was always prevalent. I agree there are other compounds but I'm partial to Zinc since it was (and still is) the military's (Milspec Mil-T-22361) choice of compound of my time. Military NSN: 8030-00-292-1102 Anti Seize compound is what I use and is still a common product today in the Navy to protect steel and aluminum components bolted on steel ships exposed to salt water. I'm not willing to try something new since I have had no corrosion apparent using this compound ever in the past 25 years. For a non military resource ref: http://www.astinfo.com/ The main point though for which we both agree was to not isolate the two metals electronically for fear of electrolysis or cathodic action which leads to corrosion. For anyone out there.... ever wonder why your cast aluminum fog lights corrode so quickly? It's the lack of good grounding and proper medium compounds to protect against it. Cheers! Perry PS. It works great on battery terminals too! Stephen Cowell wrote: > "Perry Gagnon" <perry@nospam.perryshome.com> wrote in message > news:3F8F70E3.90608@nospam.perryshome.com... > >>Assuming the rear corners are metal..... >>There's nothing good to be had from not grounding metals to metals. >>Molding is plastic, thus nonconductive, and will be fine not being >>electrically grounded to the vehicle ground. With metals, isolating them >>from a ground can cause cathodic action and actually invite corrosion. >>Especially if there is ferrous and non ferrous metals involved such as >>aluminum diamond plate and steel. Bolting with zinc chromate paste (anti >>seize) as the medium is highly recommended. > > > They ain't no zinc chromate in anti-seize... > > Credit Permatex's MSDS: > <quote> > 1. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION > Product Name: 133AR ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT 1OZ > Item No: 81343 > Product Type: Lubricant > 2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS > Ingredients Percent ACGIH 8 Hr. TWA: OSHA 8 Hr. TWA: > DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), > HYDROTREATED HEAVY > NAPHTHENIC > 64742-52-5 > 50-60 5 mg/m3 mist 5 mg/m3 mist > CALCIUM OXIDE > 1305-78-8 > 15-25 2 mg/m3 5 mg/m3 > ALUMINIUM POWDER > (PYROPHORIC) > 7429-90-5 > 5-15 metal dust, as Al: 10 mg/m3 TWA total dust, as Al: 15 mg/m3 TWA; > respirable > fraction, as Al: 5 mg/m3 TWA > GRAPHITE > 7782-42-5 > 1-10 2 mg/m3 TWA respir. 5 mg/m3 TWA respir.; 15mg/m3 total > MINERAL OIL > 64741-44-2 > 1-10 5 mg/m3 TWA 10 mg/m3 TWA > LITHIUM SOAP > 7620-77-1 > 1-10 > SILICA, QUARTZ > 14808-60-7 > 0.1-1.0 0.05 mg/m3 TWA respirable 0.1 mg/m3 TWA respirable > </quote> > > Now try *noalox*... from ideal industries website MSDS: > > <quote> > PRODUCT NAME OR NUMBER (as it appears on label) > Noalox® Anti-Oxidant > CATALOG NUMBER > All "30" Series > MANUFACTURER'S NAME > IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. > EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NO. > (815) 895-5181 > ADDRESS (Number, Street, City, State, Zip Code) > Becker Place, Sycamore, IL 60178 > HAZARDOUS MATERIAL DESCRIPTION, PROPER SHIPPING NAME, HAZARD CLASS, HAZARD > CLASS NO., HAZARD ID NO. (49 CFR 172.101) > None > CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION > Petroleum-Based Mixture > FORMULA > Proprietary > SECTION I - INGREDIENTS > CAS REGISTRY NO. %W CHEMICAL NAME(S)* > Listed as a carcinogen > in NTP, I ARC or OSHA > 1910(z) (specify) > 9003-29-6 <80 Polybutene No > 7440-66-6 20 Zinc Dust No > 7631-86-9 <5 Silicon Dioxide No > </quote> > > No zinc chromate there... but much closer to what the > original poster needs. At least it has zinc, and is marketed > for the specific reason of prevention of electrolysis. > __ > Steve > . > > |
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