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Re: help!! motor quits
Motocraft ones last usually, Wells ones are iffy right out of the box.
A shaky ground to the body tub can also cause the module to 'fail'. Mike happy jeeper wrote: > > thanks mike I replaced the module and all seems fine so far. 2nd time in 7 > years. Tell me they last longer than that. > > -- > MATT > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to use it > like a giant. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:3F53A2E1.EFE9D2FF@sympatico.ca... > > I would be suspecting the ignition module. They can act like that. > > Heat them up and they can quit. Taking the power away can reset them. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > happy jeeper wrote: > > > > > > Have a 4.2 in a 88yj. > > > When driving down the road the motor just stops running. Turning the > > > ignition to off and then restarting the motor only way to get it > running. > > > Thinking its the ignition module, but the either works or not and > resetting > > > the ignition should not have an effect, I'm thinking. > > > If it is the module is this bypassable or am I forced to change the > module. > > > This one is for you Mike, I'd would appreciate your help. Just rebuilt > the > > > motor and installed got about 275 km before this started. just had all > > > vacuum hoses checked and installed properly. One hose is chaffed > pretty > > > good coming from the evaporation canister. > > > > > > -- > > > MATT > > > > > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to > use it > > > like a giant. |
Re: help!! motor quits
In article <3F5497BE.C957F992@sympatico.ca>, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > Motocraft ones last usually, Wells ones are iffy right out of the box. > > A shaky ground to the body tub can also cause the module to 'fail'. That is weird, my module is mounted on my Fiberglass fender, by a previous owner who put the new body on. I ran the Jeep for about 8 months until the wires rotted off the old module leaving me in the center lane of the freeway, thankfully the traffic was light enuff I had enough momentum and space to get to the shoulder. Replaced it with a module from NAPA with a 1 year warranty for US$35. Then ran about 4 months until the new one got flakey, leaving me stranded twice. Jeep would run fine for about 100yds than start coughing and misfiring. Replaced that one with a free replacement from NAPA. When I took the "Bad" module in they tested it multiple times, and it tested fine and since I already installed the new one the counter guy said "oh well they don't retest them after they are returned so we will just say it failed". But that is the only thing I changed on my Jeep and it has ran fine since. I am not sure how long the original one was on there, looked pretty old. I have heard quite a few times that they need to be grounded but mine isn't. My plan is to move mine in the cab to remove it from the heat, which I have been told is what kills them. > > Mike > > happy jeeper wrote: > > > > thanks mike I replaced the module and all seems fine so far. 2nd time in 7 > > years. Tell me they last longer than that. > > > > -- > > MATT > > > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to use it > > like a giant. > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:3F53A2E1.EFE9D2FF@sympatico.ca... > > > I would be suspecting the ignition module. They can act like that. > > > Heat them up and they can quit. Taking the power away can reset them. > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > happy jeeper wrote: > > > > > > > > Have a 4.2 in a 88yj. > > > > When driving down the road the motor just stops running. Turning the > > > > ignition to off and then restarting the motor only way to get it > > running. > > > > Thinking its the ignition module, but the either works or not and > > resetting > > > > the ignition should not have an effect, I'm thinking. > > > > If it is the module is this bypassable or am I forced to change the > > module. > > > > This one is for you Mike, I'd would appreciate your help. Just rebuilt > > the > > > > motor and installed got about 275 km before this started. just had all > > > > vacuum hoses checked and installed properly. One hose is chaffed > > pretty > > > > good coming from the evaporation canister. > > > > > > > > -- > > > > MATT > > > > > > > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to > > use it > > > > like a giant. |
Re: help!! motor quits
In article <3F5497BE.C957F992@sympatico.ca>, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > Motocraft ones last usually, Wells ones are iffy right out of the box. > > A shaky ground to the body tub can also cause the module to 'fail'. That is weird, my module is mounted on my Fiberglass fender, by a previous owner who put the new body on. I ran the Jeep for about 8 months until the wires rotted off the old module leaving me in the center lane of the freeway, thankfully the traffic was light enuff I had enough momentum and space to get to the shoulder. Replaced it with a module from NAPA with a 1 year warranty for US$35. Then ran about 4 months until the new one got flakey, leaving me stranded twice. Jeep would run fine for about 100yds than start coughing and misfiring. Replaced that one with a free replacement from NAPA. When I took the "Bad" module in they tested it multiple times, and it tested fine and since I already installed the new one the counter guy said "oh well they don't retest them after they are returned so we will just say it failed". But that is the only thing I changed on my Jeep and it has ran fine since. I am not sure how long the original one was on there, looked pretty old. I have heard quite a few times that they need to be grounded but mine isn't. My plan is to move mine in the cab to remove it from the heat, which I have been told is what kills them. > > Mike > > happy jeeper wrote: > > > > thanks mike I replaced the module and all seems fine so far. 2nd time in 7 > > years. Tell me they last longer than that. > > > > -- > > MATT > > > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to use it > > like a giant. > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:3F53A2E1.EFE9D2FF@sympatico.ca... > > > I would be suspecting the ignition module. They can act like that. > > > Heat them up and they can quit. Taking the power away can reset them. > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > happy jeeper wrote: > > > > > > > > Have a 4.2 in a 88yj. > > > > When driving down the road the motor just stops running. Turning the > > > > ignition to off and then restarting the motor only way to get it > > running. > > > > Thinking its the ignition module, but the either works or not and > > resetting > > > > the ignition should not have an effect, I'm thinking. > > > > If it is the module is this bypassable or am I forced to change the > > module. > > > > This one is for you Mike, I'd would appreciate your help. Just rebuilt > > the > > > > motor and installed got about 275 km before this started. just had all > > > > vacuum hoses checked and installed properly. One hose is chaffed > > pretty > > > > good coming from the evaporation canister. > > > > > > > > -- > > > > MATT > > > > > > > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to > > use it > > > > like a giant. |
Re: CJ Ground strap location WAS: help!! motor quits
AMC can mean 'All Makes Covered' and yes, that mesh wire from the head
to the firewall exists on the CJ's. Mine has a Ford starter setup with a GM ignition key. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Lee Ayrton wrote: > > On or about Tue, 2 Sep 2003, Mike Romain of romainm@sympatico.ca wrote: > > > A shaky ground to the body tub can also cause the module to 'fail'. > > Where is the ground strap to the sheet metal usually on a CJ5? My > negative battery cable goes to the engine head and there's a strap that > loops from the block around the left motor mount to the frame. When I > pulled the body off I don't remember pulling a ground strap to either the > frame or the engine -- but then again there wasn't much left of the body, > either. > > I want to say that it is a flat braided wire strap from the firewall to > the back of the head, but the other side of by brain says "No, that's a > Ford thing." |
Re: CJ Ground strap location WAS: help!! motor quits
AMC can mean 'All Makes Covered' and yes, that mesh wire from the head
to the firewall exists on the CJ's. Mine has a Ford starter setup with a GM ignition key. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Lee Ayrton wrote: > > On or about Tue, 2 Sep 2003, Mike Romain of romainm@sympatico.ca wrote: > > > A shaky ground to the body tub can also cause the module to 'fail'. > > Where is the ground strap to the sheet metal usually on a CJ5? My > negative battery cable goes to the engine head and there's a strap that > loops from the block around the left motor mount to the frame. When I > pulled the body off I don't remember pulling a ground strap to either the > frame or the engine -- but then again there wasn't much left of the body, > either. > > I want to say that it is a flat braided wire strap from the firewall to > the back of the head, but the other side of by brain says "No, that's a > Ford thing." |
Re: help!! motor quits
You can run into ground loop issues with a glass body. Basically the
ignition module is stealing a ground through the distributor rather than the direct ground on the metal body. If some other part gets shaky, all kinds of strange symptoms can happen when each part doesn't have a dedicated ground. I would recommend a dedicated ground to the module to avoid troubles. Mike aGraham wrote: > > In article <3F5497BE.C957F992@sympatico.ca>, > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > > > Motocraft ones last usually, Wells ones are iffy right out of the box. > > > > A shaky ground to the body tub can also cause the module to 'fail'. > > That is weird, my module is mounted on my Fiberglass fender, by a > previous owner who put the new body on. I ran the Jeep for about 8 > months until the wires rotted off the old module leaving me in the > center lane of the freeway, thankfully the traffic was light enuff I had > enough momentum and space to get to the shoulder. Replaced it with a > module from NAPA with a 1 year warranty for US$35. Then ran about 4 > months until the new one got flakey, leaving me stranded twice. Jeep > would run fine for about 100yds than start coughing and misfiring. > Replaced that one with a free replacement from NAPA. When I took the > "Bad" module in they tested it multiple times, and it tested fine and > since I already installed the new one the counter guy said "oh well they > don't retest them after they are returned so we will just say it > failed". But that is the only thing I changed on my Jeep and it has ran > fine since. > > I am not sure how long the original one was on there, looked pretty old. > I have heard quite a few times that they need to be grounded but mine > isn't. My plan is to move mine in the cab to remove it from the heat, > which I have been told is what kills them. > > > > > Mike > > > > happy jeeper wrote: > > > > > > thanks mike I replaced the module and all seems fine so far. 2nd time in 7 > > > years. Tell me they last longer than that. > > > > > > -- > > > MATT > > > > > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to use it > > > like a giant. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:3F53A2E1.EFE9D2FF@sympatico.ca... > > > > I would be suspecting the ignition module. They can act like that. > > > > Heat them up and they can quit. Taking the power away can reset them. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > happy jeeper wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Have a 4.2 in a 88yj. > > > > > When driving down the road the motor just stops running. Turning the > > > > > ignition to off and then restarting the motor only way to get it > > > running. > > > > > Thinking its the ignition module, but the either works or not and > > > resetting > > > > > the ignition should not have an effect, I'm thinking. > > > > > If it is the module is this bypassable or am I forced to change the > > > module. > > > > > This one is for you Mike, I'd would appreciate your help. Just rebuilt > > > the > > > > > motor and installed got about 275 km before this started. just had all > > > > > vacuum hoses checked and installed properly. One hose is chaffed > > > pretty > > > > > good coming from the evaporation canister. > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > MATT > > > > > > > > > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to > > > use it > > > > > like a giant. |
Re: help!! motor quits
You can run into ground loop issues with a glass body. Basically the
ignition module is stealing a ground through the distributor rather than the direct ground on the metal body. If some other part gets shaky, all kinds of strange symptoms can happen when each part doesn't have a dedicated ground. I would recommend a dedicated ground to the module to avoid troubles. Mike aGraham wrote: > > In article <3F5497BE.C957F992@sympatico.ca>, > Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > > > Motocraft ones last usually, Wells ones are iffy right out of the box. > > > > A shaky ground to the body tub can also cause the module to 'fail'. > > That is weird, my module is mounted on my Fiberglass fender, by a > previous owner who put the new body on. I ran the Jeep for about 8 > months until the wires rotted off the old module leaving me in the > center lane of the freeway, thankfully the traffic was light enuff I had > enough momentum and space to get to the shoulder. Replaced it with a > module from NAPA with a 1 year warranty for US$35. Then ran about 4 > months until the new one got flakey, leaving me stranded twice. Jeep > would run fine for about 100yds than start coughing and misfiring. > Replaced that one with a free replacement from NAPA. When I took the > "Bad" module in they tested it multiple times, and it tested fine and > since I already installed the new one the counter guy said "oh well they > don't retest them after they are returned so we will just say it > failed". But that is the only thing I changed on my Jeep and it has ran > fine since. > > I am not sure how long the original one was on there, looked pretty old. > I have heard quite a few times that they need to be grounded but mine > isn't. My plan is to move mine in the cab to remove it from the heat, > which I have been told is what kills them. > > > > > Mike > > > > happy jeeper wrote: > > > > > > thanks mike I replaced the module and all seems fine so far. 2nd time in 7 > > > years. Tell me they last longer than that. > > > > > > -- > > > MATT > > > > > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to use it > > > like a giant. > > > > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > > news:3F53A2E1.EFE9D2FF@sympatico.ca... > > > > I would be suspecting the ignition module. They can act like that. > > > > Heat them up and they can quit. Taking the power away can reset them. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > > > > > happy jeeper wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Have a 4.2 in a 88yj. > > > > > When driving down the road the motor just stops running. Turning the > > > > > ignition to off and then restarting the motor only way to get it > > > running. > > > > > Thinking its the ignition module, but the either works or not and > > > resetting > > > > > the ignition should not have an effect, I'm thinking. > > > > > If it is the module is this bypassable or am I forced to change the > > > module. > > > > > This one is for you Mike, I'd would appreciate your help. Just rebuilt > > > the > > > > > motor and installed got about 275 km before this started. just had all > > > > > vacuum hoses checked and installed properly. One hose is chaffed > > > pretty > > > > > good coming from the evaporation canister. > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > MATT > > > > > > > > > > O, it is excellent to have a giant's strength; but it is tyrannous to > > > use it > > > > > like a giant. |
Re: CJ Ground strap location WAS: help!! motor quits
Yep, with a GM alternator and a Ford distributor, and a tranny shared with a couple of other truck lines. All this gives rise to a parts counter game of "Who was low bidder for parts the week my Jeep was built? What? Studebaker?" Thanks for the tip. Lee On or about Tue, 2 Sep 2003, Mike Romain of romainm@sympatico.ca wrote: > AMC can mean 'All Makes Covered' and yes, that mesh wire from the head > to the firewall exists on the CJ's. > > Mine has a Ford starter setup with a GM ignition key. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Lee Ayrton wrote: > > > > Where is the ground strap to the sheet metal usually on a CJ5? My > > negative battery cable goes to the engine head and there's a strap that > > loops from the block around the left motor mount to the frame. When I > > pulled the body off I don't remember pulling a ground strap to either the > > frame or the engine -- but then again there wasn't much left of the body, > > either. > > > > I want to say that it is a flat braided wire strap from the firewall to > > the back of the head, but the other side of by brain says "No, that's a > > Ford thing." > > > > On or about Tue, 2 Sep 2003, Mike Romain of romainm@sympatico.ca wrote: > > > > > A shaky ground to the body tub can also cause the module to 'fail'. > |
Re: CJ Ground strap location WAS: help!! motor quits
Yep, with a GM alternator and a Ford distributor, and a tranny shared with a couple of other truck lines. All this gives rise to a parts counter game of "Who was low bidder for parts the week my Jeep was built? What? Studebaker?" Thanks for the tip. Lee On or about Tue, 2 Sep 2003, Mike Romain of romainm@sympatico.ca wrote: > AMC can mean 'All Makes Covered' and yes, that mesh wire from the head > to the firewall exists on the CJ's. > > Mine has a Ford starter setup with a GM ignition key. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Lee Ayrton wrote: > > > > Where is the ground strap to the sheet metal usually on a CJ5? My > > negative battery cable goes to the engine head and there's a strap that > > loops from the block around the left motor mount to the frame. When I > > pulled the body off I don't remember pulling a ground strap to either the > > frame or the engine -- but then again there wasn't much left of the body, > > either. > > > > I want to say that it is a flat braided wire strap from the firewall to > > the back of the head, but the other side of by brain says "No, that's a > > Ford thing." > > > > On or about Tue, 2 Sep 2003, Mike Romain of romainm@sympatico.ca wrote: > > > > > A shaky ground to the body tub can also cause the module to 'fail'. > |
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