guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

110,000 miles and this puppy is toast.
http://members.cox.net/wilsond/temp/hb-shot.jpg

I was having idle roughness, but cured most of it
by fixing minor vac leaks (broken hard plastic lines)

Now it looks like this is the next thing.

That and my rear drum shoes. Getting kinda thin.
Oh well. It's a nice sunny and mostly warm day.

--
DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

It had move forward rubbing your belt?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> 110,000 miles and this puppy is toast.
> http://members.cox.net/wilsond/temp/hb-shot.jpg
>
> I was having idle roughness, but cured most of it
> by fixing minor vac leaks (broken hard plastic lines)
>
> Now it looks like this is the next thing.
>
> That and my rear drum shoes. Getting kinda thin.
> Oh well. It's a nice sunny and mostly warm day.
>
> --
> DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

It had move forward rubbing your belt?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> 110,000 miles and this puppy is toast.
> http://members.cox.net/wilsond/temp/hb-shot.jpg
>
> I was having idle roughness, but cured most of it
> by fixing minor vac leaks (broken hard plastic lines)
>
> Now it looks like this is the next thing.
>
> That and my rear drum shoes. Getting kinda thin.
> Oh well. It's a nice sunny and mostly warm day.
>
> --
> DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

It had move forward rubbing your belt?
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> 110,000 miles and this puppy is toast.
> http://members.cox.net/wilsond/temp/hb-shot.jpg
>
> I was having idle roughness, but cured most of it
> by fixing minor vac leaks (broken hard plastic lines)
>
> Now it looks like this is the next thing.
>
> That and my rear drum shoes. Getting kinda thin.
> Oh well. It's a nice sunny and mostly warm day.
>
> --
> DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> It had move forward rubbing your belt?

Could be. Can't tell for sure, the rubber is pooched out
so it's hard to get a straight-edge across it. I suspect
it has moved just enough to cause squeeks but not enough
to eat the belt edge. Thing is it only squeeks in high
humidity.

Any way, with those cracks and splits it can't be far from
going. Never replaced one of these before. Hope it can
be done without having to remove the radiator and move the AC
coil. Maby just lift the radiator up an inch or so.

My luck, it's going to be a real pain. Looks like I'll have
to drop the swaybar (no biggie) and possibly remove the fan

Found the part at NAPA for 46$ and a chrylerpartsdirect for
$55 (normally $68) Wonder if the dealership part is worth
the extra 9$?

Actually, wonder how much they would charge to do it for me
considering I don't have a puller. Could borrow one from
Autozone though. Oh well, got to replace the rear brake shoes
first, that's #1 on the list today.

> DougW wrote:
>>
>> 110,000 miles and this puppy is toast.
>> http://members.cox.net/wilsond/temp/hb-shot.jpg

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> It had move forward rubbing your belt?

Could be. Can't tell for sure, the rubber is pooched out
so it's hard to get a straight-edge across it. I suspect
it has moved just enough to cause squeeks but not enough
to eat the belt edge. Thing is it only squeeks in high
humidity.

Any way, with those cracks and splits it can't be far from
going. Never replaced one of these before. Hope it can
be done without having to remove the radiator and move the AC
coil. Maby just lift the radiator up an inch or so.

My luck, it's going to be a real pain. Looks like I'll have
to drop the swaybar (no biggie) and possibly remove the fan

Found the part at NAPA for 46$ and a chrylerpartsdirect for
$55 (normally $68) Wonder if the dealership part is worth
the extra 9$?

Actually, wonder how much they would charge to do it for me
considering I don't have a puller. Could borrow one from
Autozone though. Oh well, got to replace the rear brake shoes
first, that's #1 on the list today.

> DougW wrote:
>>
>> 110,000 miles and this puppy is toast.
>> http://members.cox.net/wilsond/temp/hb-shot.jpg

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> It had move forward rubbing your belt?

Could be. Can't tell for sure, the rubber is pooched out
so it's hard to get a straight-edge across it. I suspect
it has moved just enough to cause squeeks but not enough
to eat the belt edge. Thing is it only squeeks in high
humidity.

Any way, with those cracks and splits it can't be far from
going. Never replaced one of these before. Hope it can
be done without having to remove the radiator and move the AC
coil. Maby just lift the radiator up an inch or so.

My luck, it's going to be a real pain. Looks like I'll have
to drop the swaybar (no biggie) and possibly remove the fan

Found the part at NAPA for 46$ and a chrylerpartsdirect for
$55 (normally $68) Wonder if the dealership part is worth
the extra 9$?

Actually, wonder how much they would charge to do it for me
considering I don't have a puller. Could borrow one from
Autozone though. Oh well, got to replace the rear brake shoes
first, that's #1 on the list today.

> DougW wrote:
>>
>> 110,000 miles and this puppy is toast.
>> http://members.cox.net/wilsond/temp/hb-shot.jpg

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

On Sat, 6 Mar 2004 22:02:37 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:

> L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> > It had move forward rubbing your belt?
>
> Could be. Can't tell for sure, the rubber is pooched out
> so it's hard to get a straight-edge across it. I suspect
> it has moved just enough to cause squeeks but not enough
> to eat the belt edge. Thing is it only squeeks in high
> humidity.
>
> Any way, with those cracks and splits it can't be far from
> going. Never replaced one of these before. Hope it can
> be done without having to remove the radiator and move the AC
> coil. Maby just lift the radiator up an inch or so.
>
> My luck, it's going to be a real pain. Looks like I'll have
> to drop the swaybar (no biggie) and possibly remove the fan
>
> Found the part at NAPA for 46$ and a chrylerpartsdirect for
> $55 (normally $68) Wonder if the dealership part is worth
> the extra 9$?
>
> Actually, wonder how much they would charge to do it for me
> considering I don't have a puller. Could borrow one from
> Autozone though. Oh well, got to replace the rear brake shoes
> first, that's #1 on the list today.

On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
puller. One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
break it free. One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

On Sat, 6 Mar 2004 22:02:37 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:

> L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> > It had move forward rubbing your belt?
>
> Could be. Can't tell for sure, the rubber is pooched out
> so it's hard to get a straight-edge across it. I suspect
> it has moved just enough to cause squeeks but not enough
> to eat the belt edge. Thing is it only squeeks in high
> humidity.
>
> Any way, with those cracks and splits it can't be far from
> going. Never replaced one of these before. Hope it can
> be done without having to remove the radiator and move the AC
> coil. Maby just lift the radiator up an inch or so.
>
> My luck, it's going to be a real pain. Looks like I'll have
> to drop the swaybar (no biggie) and possibly remove the fan
>
> Found the part at NAPA for 46$ and a chrylerpartsdirect for
> $55 (normally $68) Wonder if the dealership part is worth
> the extra 9$?
>
> Actually, wonder how much they would charge to do it for me
> considering I don't have a puller. Could borrow one from
> Autozone though. Oh well, got to replace the rear brake shoes
> first, that's #1 on the list today.

On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
puller. One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
break it free. One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

On Sat, 6 Mar 2004 22:02:37 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:

> L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> > It had move forward rubbing your belt?
>
> Could be. Can't tell for sure, the rubber is pooched out
> so it's hard to get a straight-edge across it. I suspect
> it has moved just enough to cause squeeks but not enough
> to eat the belt edge. Thing is it only squeeks in high
> humidity.
>
> Any way, with those cracks and splits it can't be far from
> going. Never replaced one of these before. Hope it can
> be done without having to remove the radiator and move the AC
> coil. Maby just lift the radiator up an inch or so.
>
> My luck, it's going to be a real pain. Looks like I'll have
> to drop the swaybar (no biggie) and possibly remove the fan
>
> Found the part at NAPA for 46$ and a chrylerpartsdirect for
> $55 (normally $68) Wonder if the dealership part is worth
> the extra 9$?
>
> Actually, wonder how much they would charge to do it for me
> considering I don't have a puller. Could borrow one from
> Autozone though. Oh well, got to replace the rear brake shoes
> first, that's #1 on the list today.

On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
puller. One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
break it free. One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Will Honea did pass the time by typing:

> On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
> universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
> models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
> knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
> puller.

just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
just fit.

> One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
> bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
> you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
> get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
> break it free.

Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed thread?
Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]

> One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
> pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
> doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.

Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.

--
DougW
Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Will Honea did pass the time by typing:

> On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
> universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
> models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
> knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
> puller.

just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
just fit.

> One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
> bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
> you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
> get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
> break it free.

Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed thread?
Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]

> One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
> pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
> doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.

Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.

--
DougW
Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Will Honea did pass the time by typing:

> On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
> universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
> models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
> knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
> puller.

just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
just fit.

> One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
> bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
> you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
> get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
> break it free.

Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed thread?
Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]

> One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
> pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
> doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.

Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.

--
DougW
Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Hi Doug,
Might test it, by just removing it's bolt and give a couple tap
with a malt or even a hammer seeing you're not trying to save it. Ninety
percent of the ones I've pulled, pulling the puller out of the drawer
was just a waste of time.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> just fit.
>
> Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed thread?
> Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
>
> Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
>
> --
> DougW
> Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Hi Doug,
Might test it, by just removing it's bolt and give a couple tap
with a malt or even a hammer seeing you're not trying to save it. Ninety
percent of the ones I've pulled, pulling the puller out of the drawer
was just a waste of time.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> just fit.
>
> Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed thread?
> Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
>
> Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
>
> --
> DougW
> Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Hi Doug,
Might test it, by just removing it's bolt and give a couple tap
with a malt or even a hammer seeing you're not trying to save it. Ninety
percent of the ones I've pulled, pulling the puller out of the drawer
was just a waste of time.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

DougW wrote:
>
> just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> just fit.
>
> Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed thread?
> Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
>
> Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
>
> --
> DougW
> Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Hey Doug,

FWIW mine came off rather easy but that is probably because the engine was
out of the XJ. Had I been tight for space working in a snowstorm you can bet
your ass it would have been seized on.

I'm not so sure I'd sweat that HB right now - I've seen a lot worse! You've
discovered wear, keep an eye on it - you may not need to change until your
convenience... like when you have to do a water pump, rad, t-chain etc.
-Brian

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:404A8028.45413CEC@cox.net...
: Hi Doug,
: Might test it, by just removing it's bolt and give a couple tap
: with a malt or even a hammer seeing you're not trying to save it. Ninety
: percent of the ones I've pulled, pulling the puller out of the drawer
: was just a waste of time.
: God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
: mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
:
: DougW wrote:
: >
: > just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
: > the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
: > the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
: > squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
: > Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
: > just fit.
: >
: > Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
: > My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
: > loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed
thread?
: > Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
: >
: > Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
: > out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
: > if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
: > expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
: >
: > --
: > DougW
: > Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Hey Doug,

FWIW mine came off rather easy but that is probably because the engine was
out of the XJ. Had I been tight for space working in a snowstorm you can bet
your ass it would have been seized on.

I'm not so sure I'd sweat that HB right now - I've seen a lot worse! You've
discovered wear, keep an eye on it - you may not need to change until your
convenience... like when you have to do a water pump, rad, t-chain etc.
-Brian

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:404A8028.45413CEC@cox.net...
: Hi Doug,
: Might test it, by just removing it's bolt and give a couple tap
: with a malt or even a hammer seeing you're not trying to save it. Ninety
: percent of the ones I've pulled, pulling the puller out of the drawer
: was just a waste of time.
: God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
: mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
:
: DougW wrote:
: >
: > just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
: > the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
: > the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
: > squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
: > Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
: > just fit.
: >
: > Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
: > My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
: > loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed
thread?
: > Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
: >
: > Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
: > out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
: > if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
: > expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
: >
: > --
: > DougW
: > Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Hey Doug,

FWIW mine came off rather easy but that is probably because the engine was
out of the XJ. Had I been tight for space working in a snowstorm you can bet
your ass it would have been seized on.

I'm not so sure I'd sweat that HB right now - I've seen a lot worse! You've
discovered wear, keep an eye on it - you may not need to change until your
convenience... like when you have to do a water pump, rad, t-chain etc.
-Brian

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:404A8028.45413CEC@cox.net...
: Hi Doug,
: Might test it, by just removing it's bolt and give a couple tap
: with a malt or even a hammer seeing you're not trying to save it. Ninety
: percent of the ones I've pulled, pulling the puller out of the drawer
: was just a waste of time.
: God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
: mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
:
: DougW wrote:
: >
: > just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
: > the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
: > the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
: > squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
: > Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
: > just fit.
: >
: > Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
: > My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
: > loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed
thread?
: > Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
: >
: > Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
: > out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
: > if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
: > expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
: >
: > --
: > DougW
: > Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

For the time it takes to do the job right, pull the rad and use the proper
puller. A little trick to get the centre bolt loose, put a Johnson bar (
long 1/2" drive breaker bar in case you don't call them Johnson bars where
you come from) with a shallow socket on the bolt. Turn it until it's wedged
against the ground opposite to engine rotation. Now go in and hit the
starter with the key a couple of times. Guaranteed to break loose. Tighten
it with the bar or ideally and impact wrench with the trans in gear for a
standard, for an auto with a large screwdriver or prybar in the ring gear
teeth wherever you can get at it. We actually just used the impact gun.
Steve
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:xgt2c.38118$1k.27851@okepread01...
> Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
>
> > On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
> > universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
> > models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
> > knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
> > puller.
>
> just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> just fit.
>
> > One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
> > bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
> > you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
> > get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
> > break it free.
>
> Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed
thread?
> Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
>
> > One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
> > pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
> > doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.
>
> Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
>
> --
> DougW
> Jeep 1, Wallet 0
>
>

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

For the time it takes to do the job right, pull the rad and use the proper
puller. A little trick to get the centre bolt loose, put a Johnson bar (
long 1/2" drive breaker bar in case you don't call them Johnson bars where
you come from) with a shallow socket on the bolt. Turn it until it's wedged
against the ground opposite to engine rotation. Now go in and hit the
starter with the key a couple of times. Guaranteed to break loose. Tighten
it with the bar or ideally and impact wrench with the trans in gear for a
standard, for an auto with a large screwdriver or prybar in the ring gear
teeth wherever you can get at it. We actually just used the impact gun.
Steve
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:xgt2c.38118$1k.27851@okepread01...
> Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
>
> > On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
> > universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
> > models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
> > knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
> > puller.
>
> just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> just fit.
>
> > One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
> > bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
> > you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
> > get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
> > break it free.
>
> Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed
thread?
> Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
>
> > One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
> > pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
> > doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.
>
> Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
>
> --
> DougW
> Jeep 1, Wallet 0
>
>

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

For the time it takes to do the job right, pull the rad and use the proper
puller. A little trick to get the centre bolt loose, put a Johnson bar (
long 1/2" drive breaker bar in case you don't call them Johnson bars where
you come from) with a shallow socket on the bolt. Turn it until it's wedged
against the ground opposite to engine rotation. Now go in and hit the
starter with the key a couple of times. Guaranteed to break loose. Tighten
it with the bar or ideally and impact wrench with the trans in gear for a
standard, for an auto with a large screwdriver or prybar in the ring gear
teeth wherever you can get at it. We actually just used the impact gun.
Steve
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:xgt2c.38118$1k.27851@okepread01...
> Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
>
> > On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
> > universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
> > models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
> > knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
> > puller.
>
> just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> just fit.
>
> > One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
> > bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
> > you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
> > get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
> > break it free.
>
> Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed
thread?
> Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
>
> > One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
> > pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
> > doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.
>
> Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
>
> --
> DougW
> Jeep 1, Wallet 0
>
>

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Steve G did pass the time by typing:
> For the time it takes to do the job right, pull the rad and use the proper
> puller.

And from what I've read, the proper installer as well. Several sites
out there caution against using a mallet because of possible damage to
the thrust bearing. Simple tool, I can borrow it from AutoZone with the
puller. (they have both)

> A little trick to get the centre bolt loose, put a Johnson bar (
> long 1/2" drive breaker bar in case you don't call them Johnson bars where
> you come from) with a shallow socket on the bolt.

We call them a "Cheater bar."

> Turn it until it's wedged
> against the ground opposite to engine rotation. Now go in and hit the
> starter with the key a couple of times. Guaranteed to break loose.

Will keep that trick in mind. Plan to give it a try with just my short
bar and maby the mallet, then air ratchet. There isn't any rust on the
bolt or surfaces, it might (knock on wood) come out with minimal fuss.

--
DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Steve G did pass the time by typing:
> For the time it takes to do the job right, pull the rad and use the proper
> puller.

And from what I've read, the proper installer as well. Several sites
out there caution against using a mallet because of possible damage to
the thrust bearing. Simple tool, I can borrow it from AutoZone with the
puller. (they have both)

> A little trick to get the centre bolt loose, put a Johnson bar (
> long 1/2" drive breaker bar in case you don't call them Johnson bars where
> you come from) with a shallow socket on the bolt.

We call them a "Cheater bar."

> Turn it until it's wedged
> against the ground opposite to engine rotation. Now go in and hit the
> starter with the key a couple of times. Guaranteed to break loose.

Will keep that trick in mind. Plan to give it a try with just my short
bar and maby the mallet, then air ratchet. There isn't any rust on the
bolt or surfaces, it might (knock on wood) come out with minimal fuss.

--
DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Steve G did pass the time by typing:
> For the time it takes to do the job right, pull the rad and use the proper
> puller.

And from what I've read, the proper installer as well. Several sites
out there caution against using a mallet because of possible damage to
the thrust bearing. Simple tool, I can borrow it from AutoZone with the
puller. (they have both)

> A little trick to get the centre bolt loose, put a Johnson bar (
> long 1/2" drive breaker bar in case you don't call them Johnson bars where
> you come from) with a shallow socket on the bolt.

We call them a "Cheater bar."

> Turn it until it's wedged
> against the ground opposite to engine rotation. Now go in and hit the
> starter with the key a couple of times. Guaranteed to break loose.

Will keep that trick in mind. Plan to give it a try with just my short
bar and maby the mallet, then air ratchet. There isn't any rust on the
bolt or surfaces, it might (knock on wood) come out with minimal fuss.

--
DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Cherokee-LTD did pass the time by typing:
> Hey Doug,
>
> FWIW mine came off rather easy but that is probably because the engine was
> out of the XJ. Had I been tight for space working in a snowstorm you can bet
> your ass it would have been seized on.

Heh. That's usually the way things work. The service book says it can be
gotten from the top after removing the belt and fan shroud. I dunno, it's
quite tight to the fan. Time will tell.

Either way it will be added to the website.

> I'm not so sure I'd sweat that HB right now - I've seen a lot worse! You've
> discovered wear, keep an eye on it - you may not need to change until your
> convenience... like when you have to do a water pump, rad, t-chain etc.

It will be fixed next weekend. Just a habit of mine not to let things go
too long. The longer you put off fixing something the more likely it will
bite you in the arse.

--
DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Cherokee-LTD did pass the time by typing:
> Hey Doug,
>
> FWIW mine came off rather easy but that is probably because the engine was
> out of the XJ. Had I been tight for space working in a snowstorm you can bet
> your ass it would have been seized on.

Heh. That's usually the way things work. The service book says it can be
gotten from the top after removing the belt and fan shroud. I dunno, it's
quite tight to the fan. Time will tell.

Either way it will be added to the website.

> I'm not so sure I'd sweat that HB right now - I've seen a lot worse! You've
> discovered wear, keep an eye on it - you may not need to change until your
> convenience... like when you have to do a water pump, rad, t-chain etc.

It will be fixed next weekend. Just a habit of mine not to let things go
too long. The longer you put off fixing something the more likely it will
bite you in the arse.

--
DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

Cherokee-LTD did pass the time by typing:
> Hey Doug,
>
> FWIW mine came off rather easy but that is probably because the engine was
> out of the XJ. Had I been tight for space working in a snowstorm you can bet
> your ass it would have been seized on.

Heh. That's usually the way things work. The service book says it can be
gotten from the top after removing the belt and fan shroud. I dunno, it's
quite tight to the fan. Time will tell.

Either way it will be added to the website.

> I'm not so sure I'd sweat that HB right now - I've seen a lot worse! You've
> discovered wear, keep an eye on it - you may not need to change until your
> convenience... like when you have to do a water pump, rad, t-chain etc.

It will be fixed next weekend. Just a habit of mine not to let things go
too long. The longer you put off fixing something the more likely it will
bite you in the arse.

--
DougW

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

On Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:37:06 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:

> Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
>
> > On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
> > universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
> > models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
> > knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
> > puller.
>
> just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> just fit.

I don't know where you measured - the bolt comes out and don't forget
to take that big flat washer that's under the bolt out BEFORE you try
the puller! Once the bolt is out, there is a centering hole in the
end of the crank that the puller sits into. Mine is fairly long and
the 88 MJ is set up so that the puller screw rides just uder the
radiator. That means you are turning the puller with your knuckles
right next to the radiator - and that sucker can bite.

I drilled a couple of holes in a 3 foot piece of 5/16 bar stock I had
laying around and bolted that to 2 of the smaller (about 1/4 inch, but
metric 6-8 mm?) holes in the middle part of the damper. That rotated
over against the frame and held things nice and solid while I used a
big breaker bar and socket on the bolt. Same for touquing it back.
If you do use the puiller, be careful with the bolts that you use to
attach it to the damper. Mine were drilled all the way thru and if
the bolts are too long you can punch them into the timing cover.
That's a standard RH bolt, BTW. Also, it's a lot simpler to see what
you need to do if you parctice the setup on the new one to get an idea
of where all the holes are. DON'T FORGET THAT WASHER - someone here
worked for a considerable time before he got around to taking that
sucker out and was amazed how easy it was after that <g>.

Given a choice, I would have pulled the radiator and used an impact
wrench but every one I did had a/c so I would have had a skid plate
and the condensor to pull in addition to the radiator - easiler to
take a little time and make the holding tool.

>
> > One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
> > bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
> > you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
> > get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
> > break it free.
>
> Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed thread?
> Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
>
> > One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
> > pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
> > doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.
>
> Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

On Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:37:06 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:

> Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
>
> > On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
> > universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
> > models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
> > knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
> > puller.
>
> just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> just fit.

I don't know where you measured - the bolt comes out and don't forget
to take that big flat washer that's under the bolt out BEFORE you try
the puller! Once the bolt is out, there is a centering hole in the
end of the crank that the puller sits into. Mine is fairly long and
the 88 MJ is set up so that the puller screw rides just uder the
radiator. That means you are turning the puller with your knuckles
right next to the radiator - and that sucker can bite.

I drilled a couple of holes in a 3 foot piece of 5/16 bar stock I had
laying around and bolted that to 2 of the smaller (about 1/4 inch, but
metric 6-8 mm?) holes in the middle part of the damper. That rotated
over against the frame and held things nice and solid while I used a
big breaker bar and socket on the bolt. Same for touquing it back.
If you do use the puiller, be careful with the bolts that you use to
attach it to the damper. Mine were drilled all the way thru and if
the bolts are too long you can punch them into the timing cover.
That's a standard RH bolt, BTW. Also, it's a lot simpler to see what
you need to do if you parctice the setup on the new one to get an idea
of where all the holes are. DON'T FORGET THAT WASHER - someone here
worked for a considerable time before he got around to taking that
sucker out and was amazed how easy it was after that <g>.

Given a choice, I would have pulled the radiator and used an impact
wrench but every one I did had a/c so I would have had a skid plate
and the condensor to pull in addition to the radiator - easiler to
take a little time and make the holding tool.

>
> > One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
> > bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
> > you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
> > get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
> > break it free.
>
> Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed thread?
> Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
>
> > One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
> > pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
> > doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.
>
> Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

On Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:37:06 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:

> Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
>
> > On the XJ/MJ I was able to swap it out from the top. I used a $8-10
> > universal puller from Harbor Freight but it's tight enough on those
> > models that you're probably going to loose a little skin of your
> > knuckles as they get friendly with the radiator when you work with the
> > puller.
>
> just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> just fit.

I don't know where you measured - the bolt comes out and don't forget
to take that big flat washer that's under the bolt out BEFORE you try
the puller! Once the bolt is out, there is a centering hole in the
end of the crank that the puller sits into. Mine is fairly long and
the 88 MJ is set up so that the puller screw rides just uder the
radiator. That means you are turning the puller with your knuckles
right next to the radiator - and that sucker can bite.

I drilled a couple of holes in a 3 foot piece of 5/16 bar stock I had
laying around and bolted that to 2 of the smaller (about 1/4 inch, but
metric 6-8 mm?) holes in the middle part of the damper. That rotated
over against the frame and held things nice and solid while I used a
big breaker bar and socket on the bolt. Same for touquing it back.
If you do use the puiller, be careful with the bolts that you use to
attach it to the damper. Mine were drilled all the way thru and if
the bolts are too long you can punch them into the timing cover.
That's a standard RH bolt, BTW. Also, it's a lot simpler to see what
you need to do if you parctice the setup on the new one to get an idea
of where all the holes are. DON'T FORGET THAT WASHER - someone here
worked for a considerable time before he got around to taking that
sucker out and was amazed how easy it was after that <g>.

Given a choice, I would have pulled the radiator and used an impact
wrench but every one I did had a/c so I would have had a skid plate
and the condensor to pull in addition to the radiator - easiler to
take a little time and make the holding tool.

>
> > One big problem: you will probably need some sort of a bar to
> > bolt onto the damper so that you can jam that against the frame while
> > you loosen/torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank. I couldn't
> > get the thing to hold well enough with the transmission in gear to
> > break it free.
>
> Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed thread?
> Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
>
> > One of my manuals says you can jam a screw drive or
> > pry bar against 2 bolts in the puller holes - on the three I remember
> > doing, that just twisted the bolts up and was totally a waste of time.
>
> Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

I will second that, some of those can be a real bugger to get off. I
have seen and heard of lots of broken pullers over the years.

To get the main bolt, you can use a long wrench braced against the frame
and the starter motor.

Basically if the pulley isn't wobbling and if the timing mark is still
correct, then I would leave it until I 'had' to take it off or something
else off.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Cherokee-LTD wrote:
>
> Hey Doug,
>
> FWIW mine came off rather easy but that is probably because the engine was
> out of the XJ. Had I been tight for space working in a snowstorm you can bet
> your ass it would have been seized on.
>
> I'm not so sure I'd sweat that HB right now - I've seen a lot worse! You've
> discovered wear, keep an eye on it - you may not need to change until your
> convenience... like when you have to do a water pump, rad, t-chain etc.
> -Brian
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:404A8028.45413CEC@cox.net...
> : Hi Doug,
> : Might test it, by just removing it's bolt and give a couple tap
> : with a malt or even a hammer seeing you're not trying to save it. Ninety
> : percent of the ones I've pulled, pulling the puller out of the drawer
> : was just a waste of time.
> : God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> : mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> :
> : DougW wrote:
> : >
> : > just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> : > the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> : > the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> : > squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> : > Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> : > just fit.
> : >
> : > Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> : > My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> : > loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed
> thread?
> : > Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
> : >
> : > Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> : > out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> : > if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> : > expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
> : >
> : > --
> : > DougW
> : > Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

I will second that, some of those can be a real bugger to get off. I
have seen and heard of lots of broken pullers over the years.

To get the main bolt, you can use a long wrench braced against the frame
and the starter motor.

Basically if the pulley isn't wobbling and if the timing mark is still
correct, then I would leave it until I 'had' to take it off or something
else off.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Cherokee-LTD wrote:
>
> Hey Doug,
>
> FWIW mine came off rather easy but that is probably because the engine was
> out of the XJ. Had I been tight for space working in a snowstorm you can bet
> your ass it would have been seized on.
>
> I'm not so sure I'd sweat that HB right now - I've seen a lot worse! You've
> discovered wear, keep an eye on it - you may not need to change until your
> convenience... like when you have to do a water pump, rad, t-chain etc.
> -Brian
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:404A8028.45413CEC@cox.net...
> : Hi Doug,
> : Might test it, by just removing it's bolt and give a couple tap
> : with a malt or even a hammer seeing you're not trying to save it. Ninety
> : percent of the ones I've pulled, pulling the puller out of the drawer
> : was just a waste of time.
> : God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> : mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> :
> : DougW wrote:
> : >
> : > just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> : > the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> : > the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> : > squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> : > Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> : > just fit.
> : >
> : > Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> : > My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> : > loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed
> thread?
> : > Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
> : >
> : > Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> : > out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> : > if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> : > expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
> : >
> : > --
> : > DougW
> : > Jeep 1, Wallet 0

Re: guess harmonic balancers don't last that long.
 

I will second that, some of those can be a real bugger to get off. I
have seen and heard of lots of broken pullers over the years.

To get the main bolt, you can use a long wrench braced against the frame
and the starter motor.

Basically if the pulley isn't wobbling and if the timing mark is still
correct, then I would leave it until I 'had' to take it off or something
else off.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Cherokee-LTD wrote:
>
> Hey Doug,
>
> FWIW mine came off rather easy but that is probably because the engine was
> out of the XJ. Had I been tight for space working in a snowstorm you can bet
> your ass it would have been seized on.
>
> I'm not so sure I'd sweat that HB right now - I've seen a lot worse! You've
> discovered wear, keep an eye on it - you may not need to change until your
> convenience... like when you have to do a water pump, rad, t-chain etc.
> -Brian
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:404A8028.45413CEC@cox.net...
> : Hi Doug,
> : Might test it, by just removing it's bolt and give a couple tap
> : with a malt or even a hammer seeing you're not trying to save it. Ninety
> : percent of the ones I've pulled, pulling the puller out of the drawer
> : was just a waste of time.
> : God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> : mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> :
> : DougW wrote:
> : >
> : > just got back from Steve's Tools (our local version of HF) measured
> : > the puller and it's center bolt/screw. It is about 1" longer than
> : > the distance between the balancer and the radiator. ZJs don't have
> : > squat for room in there. Almost wish I had the old Chevy back.
> : > Does that long center screw slide down into the crank? If so it might
> : > just fit.
> : >
> : > Yea.. and with an auto trany like mine it won't hold it anyway. :/
> : > My plan was to use an air wrench on it. Usually that will break things
> : > loose. Speaking of breaking loose.. is that a left or right handed
> thread?
> : > Amazing how easier it is if your turning it the proper way. :]
> : >
> : > Hmm.. This is looking more and more like a dealership job. Gonna find
> : > out how much that costs Monday. Might not be worth my time and effort
> : > if it's gonna be a real pain. (then again that means it will also be
> : > expensive) :/ We will see where my pain threshold is.
> : >
> : > --
> : > DougW
> : > Jeep 1, Wallet 0