Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
passing on what I'd been told/read.
Steve G.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
passing on what I'd been told/read.
Steve G.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
passing on what I'd been told/read.
Steve G.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
passing on what I'd been told/read.
Steve G.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
passing on what I'd been told/read.
Steve G.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
passing on what I'd been told/read.
Steve G.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
You are correct.
That is why we use heat shrink tubing over top. Most folks always used
2 layers and now we can buy them in 4" long 'automotive' grade pieces
already double walled with grease or glue like goop inside.
The heat shrink distributes the stress nicely.
I use heat shrink and solder and dielectric grease on the joints on
mine. We have serious corrosion issues and a crimp joint will fail from
the crimp taking the temper out of the wire allowing it to corrode.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> > Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > > will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> > out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> > together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> > NAPA should have them.
> >
> > If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> > somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
> >
> > http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
> >
> > The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> > female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
> >
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
That is why we use heat shrink tubing over top. Most folks always used
2 layers and now we can buy them in 4" long 'automotive' grade pieces
already double walled with grease or glue like goop inside.
The heat shrink distributes the stress nicely.
I use heat shrink and solder and dielectric grease on the joints on
mine. We have serious corrosion issues and a crimp joint will fail from
the crimp taking the temper out of the wire allowing it to corrode.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> > Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > > will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> > out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> > together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> > NAPA should have them.
> >
> > If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> > somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
> >
> > http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
> >
> > The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> > female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
> >
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
You are correct.
That is why we use heat shrink tubing over top. Most folks always used
2 layers and now we can buy them in 4" long 'automotive' grade pieces
already double walled with grease or glue like goop inside.
The heat shrink distributes the stress nicely.
I use heat shrink and solder and dielectric grease on the joints on
mine. We have serious corrosion issues and a crimp joint will fail from
the crimp taking the temper out of the wire allowing it to corrode.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> > Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > > will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> > out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> > together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> > NAPA should have them.
> >
> > If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> > somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
> >
> > http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
> >
> > The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> > female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
> >
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
That is why we use heat shrink tubing over top. Most folks always used
2 layers and now we can buy them in 4" long 'automotive' grade pieces
already double walled with grease or glue like goop inside.
The heat shrink distributes the stress nicely.
I use heat shrink and solder and dielectric grease on the joints on
mine. We have serious corrosion issues and a crimp joint will fail from
the crimp taking the temper out of the wire allowing it to corrode.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> > Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > > will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> > out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> > together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> > NAPA should have them.
> >
> > If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> > somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
> >
> > http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
> >
> > The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> > female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
> >
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
You are correct.
That is why we use heat shrink tubing over top. Most folks always used
2 layers and now we can buy them in 4" long 'automotive' grade pieces
already double walled with grease or glue like goop inside.
The heat shrink distributes the stress nicely.
I use heat shrink and solder and dielectric grease on the joints on
mine. We have serious corrosion issues and a crimp joint will fail from
the crimp taking the temper out of the wire allowing it to corrode.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> > Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > > will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> > out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> > together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> > NAPA should have them.
> >
> > If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> > somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
> >
> > http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
> >
> > The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> > female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
> >
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
That is why we use heat shrink tubing over top. Most folks always used
2 layers and now we can buy them in 4" long 'automotive' grade pieces
already double walled with grease or glue like goop inside.
The heat shrink distributes the stress nicely.
I use heat shrink and solder and dielectric grease on the joints on
mine. We have serious corrosion issues and a crimp joint will fail from
the crimp taking the temper out of the wire allowing it to corrode.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> > Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > > will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> > out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> > together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> > NAPA should have them.
> >
> > If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> > somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
> >
> > http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
> >
> > The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> > female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
> >
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
You are correct.
That is why we use heat shrink tubing over top. Most folks always used
2 layers and now we can buy them in 4" long 'automotive' grade pieces
already double walled with grease or glue like goop inside.
The heat shrink distributes the stress nicely.
I use heat shrink and solder and dielectric grease on the joints on
mine. We have serious corrosion issues and a crimp joint will fail from
the crimp taking the temper out of the wire allowing it to corrode.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> > Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > > will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> > out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> > together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> > NAPA should have them.
> >
> > If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> > somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
> >
> > http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
> >
> > The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> > female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
> >
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
That is why we use heat shrink tubing over top. Most folks always used
2 layers and now we can buy them in 4" long 'automotive' grade pieces
already double walled with grease or glue like goop inside.
The heat shrink distributes the stress nicely.
I use heat shrink and solder and dielectric grease on the joints on
mine. We have serious corrosion issues and a crimp joint will fail from
the crimp taking the temper out of the wire allowing it to corrode.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01...
> > Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > > will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> > out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> > together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> > NAPA should have them.
> >
> > If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> > somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
> >
> > http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
> >
> > The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> > female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
> >
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.