Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 07:13:28 -0400, Shaggie <me@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
><romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>>Ouch.....
>>
>>Ok, well.....
>>
>>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>>owns it along to use it.
>>
>>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>>
>>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>>the crankshaft pulley.
>
>OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
>just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
>right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
>close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
>a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
>the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
>out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
>"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
>saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
>up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
>and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
>the distributor to get it timed correctly."

Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
a bit of sense to me at all. There have been (as expected) some
conflicting responses to my questions which can confuse things (or at
least can confuse me.) As far as the shaft is concerned, the
important things (I think) is that the end meshes with the oil pump
and the spiral gear meshes with the cam (hard to mess that up) and
that it seats correctly. After that, like you said earlier as long as
the rotor is pointing to the terminal on the cap that is wired to
cylinder #1 when piston #1 is at TDC on compression stroke (and other
cylinders wired to the right terminal ( 1-8-4-3-6-7-5-2 order,
clockwise) then it should be good enough to start the Jeep up and then
set the timing with a timing light. The shaft and the housing/cap
assembly are kind of two different steps in the process and are
entirely two different steps if you don't care about where your plug
wires are run. Get the shaft to drop in and mesh with oil pump and
cam, them you could turn the housing around 20 times if you feel like
it to get #1 terminal to line up with the rotor when cylinder #1 is at
tdc on compression. Then wire up your tangle of wires. :-) I'm
trying to keep #1 at the front on the driver's side, by the way. The
only drawback I see for me to not pull the distributor out at this
point and reseat it is that I may have to turn the housing a little
more in the clockwise direction than I might like which will leave my
terminals in sub-optimal positions for my pre-cut wires. Mike, please
correct me if that last statement of mine is incorrect. Thanks again.


> Not sure if his "ouch"
>was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
>"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
>it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
>before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
>certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
>I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
>know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
>going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
>input.
>
>
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Shaggie wrote:
>>>
>>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>>> <----------@cox.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>>> >making it.
>>>
>>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>>
>>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>> >
>>> >Shaggie wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>>
>>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>> :wq!
>
>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>:wq!

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 07:13:28 -0400, Shaggie <me@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
><romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>>Ouch.....
>>
>>Ok, well.....
>>
>>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>>owns it along to use it.
>>
>>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>>
>>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>>the crankshaft pulley.
>
>OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
>just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
>right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
>close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
>a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
>the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
>out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
>"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
>saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
>up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
>and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
>the distributor to get it timed correctly."

Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
a bit of sense to me at all. There have been (as expected) some
conflicting responses to my questions which can confuse things (or at
least can confuse me.) As far as the shaft is concerned, the
important things (I think) is that the end meshes with the oil pump
and the spiral gear meshes with the cam (hard to mess that up) and
that it seats correctly. After that, like you said earlier as long as
the rotor is pointing to the terminal on the cap that is wired to
cylinder #1 when piston #1 is at TDC on compression stroke (and other
cylinders wired to the right terminal ( 1-8-4-3-6-7-5-2 order,
clockwise) then it should be good enough to start the Jeep up and then
set the timing with a timing light. The shaft and the housing/cap
assembly are kind of two different steps in the process and are
entirely two different steps if you don't care about where your plug
wires are run. Get the shaft to drop in and mesh with oil pump and
cam, them you could turn the housing around 20 times if you feel like
it to get #1 terminal to line up with the rotor when cylinder #1 is at
tdc on compression. Then wire up your tangle of wires. :-) I'm
trying to keep #1 at the front on the driver's side, by the way. The
only drawback I see for me to not pull the distributor out at this
point and reseat it is that I may have to turn the housing a little
more in the clockwise direction than I might like which will leave my
terminals in sub-optimal positions for my pre-cut wires. Mike, please
correct me if that last statement of mine is incorrect. Thanks again.


> Not sure if his "ouch"
>was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
>"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
>it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
>before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
>certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
>I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
>know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
>going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
>input.
>
>
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Shaggie wrote:
>>>
>>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>>> <----------@cox.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>>> >making it.
>>>
>>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>>
>>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>> >
>>> >Shaggie wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>>
>>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>> :wq!
>
>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>:wq!

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 07:13:28 -0400, Shaggie <me@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
><romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>>Ouch.....
>>
>>Ok, well.....
>>
>>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
>>owns it along to use it.
>>
>>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
>>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
>>
>>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
>>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
>>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
>>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
>>the crankshaft pulley.
>
>OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
>just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
>right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
>close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
>a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
>the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
>out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
>"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
>saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
>up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
>and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
>the distributor to get it timed correctly."

Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
a bit of sense to me at all. There have been (as expected) some
conflicting responses to my questions which can confuse things (or at
least can confuse me.) As far as the shaft is concerned, the
important things (I think) is that the end meshes with the oil pump
and the spiral gear meshes with the cam (hard to mess that up) and
that it seats correctly. After that, like you said earlier as long as
the rotor is pointing to the terminal on the cap that is wired to
cylinder #1 when piston #1 is at TDC on compression stroke (and other
cylinders wired to the right terminal ( 1-8-4-3-6-7-5-2 order,
clockwise) then it should be good enough to start the Jeep up and then
set the timing with a timing light. The shaft and the housing/cap
assembly are kind of two different steps in the process and are
entirely two different steps if you don't care about where your plug
wires are run. Get the shaft to drop in and mesh with oil pump and
cam, them you could turn the housing around 20 times if you feel like
it to get #1 terminal to line up with the rotor when cylinder #1 is at
tdc on compression. Then wire up your tangle of wires. :-) I'm
trying to keep #1 at the front on the driver's side, by the way. The
only drawback I see for me to not pull the distributor out at this
point and reseat it is that I may have to turn the housing a little
more in the clockwise direction than I might like which will leave my
terminals in sub-optimal positions for my pre-cut wires. Mike, please
correct me if that last statement of mine is incorrect. Thanks again.


> Not sure if his "ouch"
>was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
>"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
>it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
>before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
>certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
>I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
>know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
>going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
>input.
>
>
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Shaggie wrote:
>>>
>>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
>>> <----------@cox.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
>>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
>>> >making it.
>>>
>>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
>>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
>>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
>>>
>>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>> >
>>> >Shaggie wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
>>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
>>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
>>>
>>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>>> :wq!
>
>"I can hammer it back into shape later."
>:wq!

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

Shaggie did pass the time by typing:

> Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
> been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
> that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
> distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
> and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
> it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
> a bit of sense to me at all.

Acually it does if you have the 4.0 HO I6 engine from 92 on.
http://members.cox.net/wilsond/distributor/

The distributor on the I6 only has one hole and zero adjustment,
it only goes in one way unlike the older distributors that have
a lower clamp.

--
DougW

Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

Shaggie did pass the time by typing:

> Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
> been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
> that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
> distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
> and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
> it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
> a bit of sense to me at all.

Acually it does if you have the 4.0 HO I6 engine from 92 on.
http://members.cox.net/wilsond/distributor/

The distributor on the I6 only has one hole and zero adjustment,
it only goes in one way unlike the older distributors that have
a lower clamp.

--
DougW

Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

Shaggie did pass the time by typing:

> Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
> been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
> that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
> distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
> and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
> it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
> a bit of sense to me at all.

Acually it does if you have the 4.0 HO I6 engine from 92 on.
http://members.cox.net/wilsond/distributor/

The distributor on the I6 only has one hole and zero adjustment,
it only goes in one way unlike the older distributors that have
a lower clamp.

--
DougW

Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

Shaggie did pass the time by typing:

> Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
> been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
> that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
> distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
> and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
> it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
> a bit of sense to me at all.

Acually it does if you have the 4.0 HO I6 engine from 92 on.
http://members.cox.net/wilsond/distributor/

The distributor on the I6 only has one hole and zero adjustment,
it only goes in one way unlike the older distributors that have
a lower clamp.

--
DougW

Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

You do have it figured right.

The only reason to put the rotor in any one spot is just to fit the
stock wires nicely.

I have left 'lots' of them 'off one tooth' because it was too much pain
to go back in and turn the oil pump, etc. Being off one notch doesn't
mess the wires up too much.

My 'ouch' was the thought of what the fire was doing to the new carb.
Soot city...

Using a timing light isn't rocket science, I am sure you will figure it
out.

Well, off to finish packing, I am going mud running for a couple
days.... :-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 07:13:28 -0400, Shaggie <me@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
> ><romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >
> >>Ouch.....
> >>
> >>Ok, well.....
> >>
> >>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
> >>owns it along to use it.
> >>
> >>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
> >>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
> >>
> >>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
> >>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
> >>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
> >>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
> >>the crankshaft pulley.
> >
> >OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
> >just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
> >right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
> >close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
> >a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
> >the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
> >out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
> >"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
> >saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
> >up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
> >and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
> >the distributor to get it timed correctly."
>
> Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
> been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
> that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
> distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
> and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
> it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
> a bit of sense to me at all. There have been (as expected) some
> conflicting responses to my questions which can confuse things (or at
> least can confuse me.) As far as the shaft is concerned, the
> important things (I think) is that the end meshes with the oil pump
> and the spiral gear meshes with the cam (hard to mess that up) and
> that it seats correctly. After that, like you said earlier as long as
> the rotor is pointing to the terminal on the cap that is wired to
> cylinder #1 when piston #1 is at TDC on compression stroke (and other
> cylinders wired to the right terminal ( 1-8-4-3-6-7-5-2 order,
> clockwise) then it should be good enough to start the Jeep up and then
> set the timing with a timing light. The shaft and the housing/cap
> assembly are kind of two different steps in the process and are
> entirely two different steps if you don't care about where your plug
> wires are run. Get the shaft to drop in and mesh with oil pump and
> cam, them you could turn the housing around 20 times if you feel like
> it to get #1 terminal to line up with the rotor when cylinder #1 is at
> tdc on compression. Then wire up your tangle of wires. :-) I'm
> trying to keep #1 at the front on the driver's side, by the way. The
> only drawback I see for me to not pull the distributor out at this
> point and reseat it is that I may have to turn the housing a little
> more in the clockwise direction than I might like which will leave my
> terminals in sub-optimal positions for my pre-cut wires. Mike, please
> correct me if that last statement of mine is incorrect. Thanks again.
>
> > Not sure if his "ouch"
> >was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
> >"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
> >it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
> >before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
> >certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
> >I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
> >know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
> >going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
> >input.
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Mike
> >>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>
> >>Shaggie wrote:
> >>>
> >>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> >>> <----------@cox.net> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >>> >making it.
> >>>
> >>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> >>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> >>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
> >>>
> >>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>> >
> >>> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>> >>
> >>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
> >>>
> >>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>> :wq!
> >
> >"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >:wq!
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

You do have it figured right.

The only reason to put the rotor in any one spot is just to fit the
stock wires nicely.

I have left 'lots' of them 'off one tooth' because it was too much pain
to go back in and turn the oil pump, etc. Being off one notch doesn't
mess the wires up too much.

My 'ouch' was the thought of what the fire was doing to the new carb.
Soot city...

Using a timing light isn't rocket science, I am sure you will figure it
out.

Well, off to finish packing, I am going mud running for a couple
days.... :-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 07:13:28 -0400, Shaggie <me@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
> ><romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >
> >>Ouch.....
> >>
> >>Ok, well.....
> >>
> >>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
> >>owns it along to use it.
> >>
> >>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
> >>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
> >>
> >>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
> >>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
> >>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
> >>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
> >>the crankshaft pulley.
> >
> >OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
> >just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
> >right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
> >close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
> >a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
> >the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
> >out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
> >"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
> >saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
> >up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
> >and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
> >the distributor to get it timed correctly."
>
> Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
> been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
> that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
> distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
> and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
> it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
> a bit of sense to me at all. There have been (as expected) some
> conflicting responses to my questions which can confuse things (or at
> least can confuse me.) As far as the shaft is concerned, the
> important things (I think) is that the end meshes with the oil pump
> and the spiral gear meshes with the cam (hard to mess that up) and
> that it seats correctly. After that, like you said earlier as long as
> the rotor is pointing to the terminal on the cap that is wired to
> cylinder #1 when piston #1 is at TDC on compression stroke (and other
> cylinders wired to the right terminal ( 1-8-4-3-6-7-5-2 order,
> clockwise) then it should be good enough to start the Jeep up and then
> set the timing with a timing light. The shaft and the housing/cap
> assembly are kind of two different steps in the process and are
> entirely two different steps if you don't care about where your plug
> wires are run. Get the shaft to drop in and mesh with oil pump and
> cam, them you could turn the housing around 20 times if you feel like
> it to get #1 terminal to line up with the rotor when cylinder #1 is at
> tdc on compression. Then wire up your tangle of wires. :-) I'm
> trying to keep #1 at the front on the driver's side, by the way. The
> only drawback I see for me to not pull the distributor out at this
> point and reseat it is that I may have to turn the housing a little
> more in the clockwise direction than I might like which will leave my
> terminals in sub-optimal positions for my pre-cut wires. Mike, please
> correct me if that last statement of mine is incorrect. Thanks again.
>
> > Not sure if his "ouch"
> >was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
> >"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
> >it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
> >before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
> >certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
> >I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
> >know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
> >going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
> >input.
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Mike
> >>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>
> >>Shaggie wrote:
> >>>
> >>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> >>> <----------@cox.net> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >>> >making it.
> >>>
> >>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> >>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> >>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
> >>>
> >>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>> >
> >>> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>> >>
> >>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
> >>>
> >>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>> :wq!
> >
> >"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >:wq!
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!

Re: It fired up today!!! Almost *really* fired up...
 

You do have it figured right.

The only reason to put the rotor in any one spot is just to fit the
stock wires nicely.

I have left 'lots' of them 'off one tooth' because it was too much pain
to go back in and turn the oil pump, etc. Being off one notch doesn't
mess the wires up too much.

My 'ouch' was the thought of what the fire was doing to the new carb.
Soot city...

Using a timing light isn't rocket science, I am sure you will figure it
out.

Well, off to finish packing, I am going mud running for a couple
days.... :-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote:
>
> On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 07:13:28 -0400, Shaggie <me@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 23:57:18 -0400, Mike Romain
> ><romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >
> >>Ouch.....
> >>
> >>Ok, well.....
> >>
> >>You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that
> >>owns it along to use it.
> >>
> >>The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You
> >>just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.
> >>
> >>Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to
> >>the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and
> >>then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light
> >>comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on
> >>the crankshaft pulley.
> >
> >OK, I wasn't trying to be cute or anything when I asked if it wouldn't
> >just be easier to turn the base of the distributor to set the timing
> >right at this point. I think I got the distributor in there pretty
> >close, but that the slanted gear caused the distributor shaft to spin
> >a little bit as it seated, so I think I can just finish up by rotating
> >the distributor base. Sometimes it's hard to read people's responses
> >out here in more ways than one. I didn't mean to be a smart-@ss about
> >"wouldn't it be easier to just..." and I *think* that what Mike is
> >saying above is "Yes, if your distributor is in place now and hooked
> >up and not off by a whole lot then do not bother lifting it out again
> >and getting the gears to re-mesh, but rather just rotate the body of
> >the distributor to get it timed correctly."
>
> Mike, actually I'm about 95% sure that's what you're saying. You've
> been really clear in your responses to me. What's confusing me is
> that some people are posting things like how they dropped their
> distributor in and it was off by a tooth or two and they pulled it out
> and put it back in several times, as if it was critical to somehow get
> it in there lined up with "the right teeth" which doesn't seem to make
> a bit of sense to me at all. There have been (as expected) some
> conflicting responses to my questions which can confuse things (or at
> least can confuse me.) As far as the shaft is concerned, the
> important things (I think) is that the end meshes with the oil pump
> and the spiral gear meshes with the cam (hard to mess that up) and
> that it seats correctly. After that, like you said earlier as long as
> the rotor is pointing to the terminal on the cap that is wired to
> cylinder #1 when piston #1 is at TDC on compression stroke (and other
> cylinders wired to the right terminal ( 1-8-4-3-6-7-5-2 order,
> clockwise) then it should be good enough to start the Jeep up and then
> set the timing with a timing light. The shaft and the housing/cap
> assembly are kind of two different steps in the process and are
> entirely two different steps if you don't care about where your plug
> wires are run. Get the shaft to drop in and mesh with oil pump and
> cam, them you could turn the housing around 20 times if you feel like
> it to get #1 terminal to line up with the rotor when cylinder #1 is at
> tdc on compression. Then wire up your tangle of wires. :-) I'm
> trying to keep #1 at the front on the driver's side, by the way. The
> only drawback I see for me to not pull the distributor out at this
> point and reseat it is that I may have to turn the housing a little
> more in the clockwise direction than I might like which will leave my
> terminals in sub-optimal positions for my pre-cut wires. Mike, please
> correct me if that last statement of mine is incorrect. Thanks again.
>
> > Not sure if his "ouch"
> >was in response to my backfiring through the carb or to my
> >"challenging" Bill's advice on lifting the distributor out and putting
> >it back in. Mike, I have a timing light but I have never used it
> >before. I bought it soon after I bought the Jeep because I had a gift
> >certificate and saw the light at the store pretty cheap and figured
> >I'd grab it. Why do you say I need the guy who owns it? Because he'd
> >know how to use it? Or because somehow setting the timing here is
> >going to be a 2-man job? Thanks again to everyone for all of the
> >input.
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Mike
> >>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>
> >>Shaggie wrote:
> >>>
> >>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 17:14:17 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
> >>> <----------@cox.net> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> > Just lift enough to feel the rotor stop turning, then turn it a
> >>> >little in the direction you need to go, it's lots easier than you're
> >>> >making it.
> >>>
> >>> Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the
> >>> distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right.
> >>> Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?
> >>>
> >>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>> >mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>> >
> >>> >Shaggie wrote:
> >>> >>
> >>> >> Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body
> >>> >> of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I
> >>> >> won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/
> >>>
> >>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >>> :wq!
> >
> >"I can hammer it back into shape later."
> >:wq!
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!