Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
SnoMan wrote:
> > On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 18:26:03 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > > >He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the > >gauge. > > Maybe but he could check it with a IR thermometer. I do tend to think > it is cooling issue though because I have seen this before. He could > try raise hood starting car up with cap removed and a blanket over > front end to allow it to heat up and not cool coolant and watch for > agressive flow in raditor. Also replace cap and let it get hot at > about a 1000 to 1200 RPM fast idle and see if the clutch fan every > engages and if so at what temps on gage > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com That is just it!!!! He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the rad! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
SnoMan wrote:
> > On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 18:26:03 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > > >He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the > >gauge. > > Maybe but he could check it with a IR thermometer. I do tend to think > it is cooling issue though because I have seen this before. He could > try raise hood starting car up with cap removed and a blanket over > front end to allow it to heat up and not cool coolant and watch for > agressive flow in raditor. Also replace cap and let it get hot at > about a 1000 to 1200 RPM fast idle and see if the clutch fan every > engages and if so at what temps on gage > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com That is just it!!!! He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the rad! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
SnoMan wrote:
> > On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 18:26:03 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > > >He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the > >gauge. > > Maybe but he could check it with a IR thermometer. I do tend to think > it is cooling issue though because I have seen this before. He could > try raise hood starting car up with cap removed and a blanket over > front end to allow it to heat up and not cool coolant and watch for > agressive flow in raditor. Also replace cap and let it get hot at > about a 1000 to 1200 RPM fast idle and see if the clutch fan every > engages and if so at what temps on gage > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com That is just it!!!! He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the rad! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Could you possibly have the wrong water pump in there?
They make 2 pumps that fit in the 4.0, a normal one for V belt engines and a 'reverse' rotation one for serpentine belt engines. I don't know if the V8 is the same.... Having no flow and cool coolant with the rad cap off but it 'doesn't boil over is very weird.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) James wrote: > > I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No > remedy yet, this is just an update. > > Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed > repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but five > minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225. I > did this test over and over, and got the same results. > > Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the pressure > cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is water > flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I did > this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine > start, I saw no water flow. None. > > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of running > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at all > hot. Just warm. It never got hot. > > Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine > ran for 45 mins ?? > > Any further comments will be appreciated. > > --James-- > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------------------- > > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210 > > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when > > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium > > incline, even at very slow speed. > > > > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic > > light. > > > > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some > > at idle. > > > > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I > > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective > > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on > > medium inclines even at slow speeds. > > > > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I > > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six > > years and I know how it performs. > > > > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator > > > > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just > > to install a new radiator? > > > > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more? > > (Water pump does not leak). > > > > > > Thanks for any tips !!! > > > > --James-- |
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Could you possibly have the wrong water pump in there?
They make 2 pumps that fit in the 4.0, a normal one for V belt engines and a 'reverse' rotation one for serpentine belt engines. I don't know if the V8 is the same.... Having no flow and cool coolant with the rad cap off but it 'doesn't boil over is very weird.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) James wrote: > > I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No > remedy yet, this is just an update. > > Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed > repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but five > minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225. I > did this test over and over, and got the same results. > > Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the pressure > cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is water > flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I did > this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine > start, I saw no water flow. None. > > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of running > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at all > hot. Just warm. It never got hot. > > Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine > ran for 45 mins ?? > > Any further comments will be appreciated. > > --James-- > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------------------- > > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210 > > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when > > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium > > incline, even at very slow speed. > > > > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic > > light. > > > > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some > > at idle. > > > > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I > > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective > > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on > > medium inclines even at slow speeds. > > > > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I > > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six > > years and I know how it performs. > > > > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator > > > > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just > > to install a new radiator? > > > > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more? > > (Water pump does not leak). > > > > > > Thanks for any tips !!! > > > > --James-- |
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Could you possibly have the wrong water pump in there?
They make 2 pumps that fit in the 4.0, a normal one for V belt engines and a 'reverse' rotation one for serpentine belt engines. I don't know if the V8 is the same.... Having no flow and cool coolant with the rad cap off but it 'doesn't boil over is very weird.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) James wrote: > > I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No > remedy yet, this is just an update. > > Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed > repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but five > minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225. I > did this test over and over, and got the same results. > > Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the pressure > cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is water > flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I did > this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine > start, I saw no water flow. None. > > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of running > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at all > hot. Just warm. It never got hot. > > Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine > ran for 45 mins ?? > > Any further comments will be appreciated. > > --James-- > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------------------- > > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210 > > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when > > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium > > incline, even at very slow speed. > > > > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic > > light. > > > > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some > > at idle. > > > > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I > > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective > > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on > > medium inclines even at slow speeds. > > > > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I > > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six > > years and I know how it performs. > > > > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator > > > > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just > > to install a new radiator? > > > > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more? > > (Water pump does not leak). > > > > > > Thanks for any tips !!! > > > > --James-- |
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Could you possibly have the wrong water pump in there?
They make 2 pumps that fit in the 4.0, a normal one for V belt engines and a 'reverse' rotation one for serpentine belt engines. I don't know if the V8 is the same.... Having no flow and cool coolant with the rad cap off but it 'doesn't boil over is very weird.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) James wrote: > > I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No > remedy yet, this is just an update. > > Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed > repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but five > minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225. I > did this test over and over, and got the same results. > > Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the pressure > cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is water > flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I did > this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine > start, I saw no water flow. None. > > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of running > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at all > hot. Just warm. It never got hot. > > Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine > ran for 45 mins ?? > > Any further comments will be appreciated. > > --James-- > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------------------- > > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210 > > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when > > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium > > incline, even at very slow speed. > > > > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic > > light. > > > > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some > > at idle. > > > > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I > > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective > > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on > > medium inclines even at slow speeds. > > > > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I > > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six > > years and I know how it performs. > > > > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator > > > > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just > > to install a new radiator? > > > > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more? > > (Water pump does not leak). > > > > > > Thanks for any tips !!! > > > > --James-- |
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 11:31:11 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the >rad! Without chasing all wthe way back through thread has he checked for a hose collapsed internally blocking flow? ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 11:31:11 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the >rad! Without chasing all wthe way back through thread has he checked for a hose collapsed internally blocking flow? ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 11:31:11 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the >rad! Without chasing all wthe way back through thread has he checked for a hose collapsed internally blocking flow? ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
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