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-   -   Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating (https://www.jeepscanada.com/jeep-mailing-list-32/followup-2000-jgc-v-8-still-overheating-43350/)

Mike Romain 01-14-2007 11:31 AM

Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
SnoMan wrote:
>
> On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 18:26:03 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
> >gauge.

>
> Maybe but he could check it with a IR thermometer. I do tend to think
> it is cooling issue though because I have seen this before. He could
> try raise hood starting car up with cap removed and a blanket over
> front end to allow it to heat up and not cool coolant and watch for
> agressive flow in raditor. Also replace cap and let it get hot at
> about a 1000 to 1200 RPM fast idle and see if the clutch fan every
> engages and if so at what temps on gage
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com


That is just it!!!!

He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the
rad!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Mike Romain 01-14-2007 11:31 AM

Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
SnoMan wrote:
>
> On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 18:26:03 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
> >gauge.

>
> Maybe but he could check it with a IR thermometer. I do tend to think
> it is cooling issue though because I have seen this before. He could
> try raise hood starting car up with cap removed and a blanket over
> front end to allow it to heat up and not cool coolant and watch for
> agressive flow in raditor. Also replace cap and let it get hot at
> about a 1000 to 1200 RPM fast idle and see if the clutch fan every
> engages and if so at what temps on gage
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com


That is just it!!!!

He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the
rad!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Mike Romain 01-14-2007 11:31 AM

Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
SnoMan wrote:
>
> On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 18:26:03 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
> >gauge.

>
> Maybe but he could check it with a IR thermometer. I do tend to think
> it is cooling issue though because I have seen this before. He could
> try raise hood starting car up with cap removed and a blanket over
> front end to allow it to heat up and not cool coolant and watch for
> agressive flow in raditor. Also replace cap and let it get hot at
> about a 1000 to 1200 RPM fast idle and see if the clutch fan every
> engages and if so at what temps on gage
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com


That is just it!!!!

He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the
rad!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Mike Romain 01-14-2007 11:35 AM

Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
Could you possibly have the wrong water pump in there?

They make 2 pumps that fit in the 4.0, a normal one for V belt engines
and a 'reverse' rotation one for serpentine belt engines. I don't know
if the V8 is the same....

Having no flow and cool coolant with the rad cap off but it 'doesn't
boil over is very weird....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

James wrote:
>
> I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225. I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
> --James--
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when
> > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> > incline, even at very slow speed.
> >
> > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
> > light.
> >
> > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
> > at idle.
> >
> > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
> > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
> > medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >
> > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I
> > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
> > years and I know how it performs.
> >
> > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >
> > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just
> > to install a new radiator?
> >
> > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
> > (Water pump does not leak).
> >
> >
> > Thanks for any tips !!!
> >
> > --James--


Mike Romain 01-14-2007 11:35 AM

Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
Could you possibly have the wrong water pump in there?

They make 2 pumps that fit in the 4.0, a normal one for V belt engines
and a 'reverse' rotation one for serpentine belt engines. I don't know
if the V8 is the same....

Having no flow and cool coolant with the rad cap off but it 'doesn't
boil over is very weird....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

James wrote:
>
> I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225. I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
> --James--
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when
> > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> > incline, even at very slow speed.
> >
> > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
> > light.
> >
> > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
> > at idle.
> >
> > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
> > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
> > medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >
> > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I
> > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
> > years and I know how it performs.
> >
> > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >
> > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just
> > to install a new radiator?
> >
> > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
> > (Water pump does not leak).
> >
> >
> > Thanks for any tips !!!
> >
> > --James--


Mike Romain 01-14-2007 11:35 AM

Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
Could you possibly have the wrong water pump in there?

They make 2 pumps that fit in the 4.0, a normal one for V belt engines
and a 'reverse' rotation one for serpentine belt engines. I don't know
if the V8 is the same....

Having no flow and cool coolant with the rad cap off but it 'doesn't
boil over is very weird....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

James wrote:
>
> I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225. I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
> --James--
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when
> > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> > incline, even at very slow speed.
> >
> > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
> > light.
> >
> > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
> > at idle.
> >
> > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
> > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
> > medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >
> > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I
> > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
> > years and I know how it performs.
> >
> > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >
> > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just
> > to install a new radiator?
> >
> > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
> > (Water pump does not leak).
> >
> >
> > Thanks for any tips !!!
> >
> > --James--


Mike Romain 01-14-2007 11:35 AM

Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
Could you possibly have the wrong water pump in there?

They make 2 pumps that fit in the 4.0, a normal one for V belt engines
and a 'reverse' rotation one for serpentine belt engines. I don't know
if the V8 is the same....

Having no flow and cool coolant with the rad cap off but it 'doesn't
boil over is very weird....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

James wrote:
>
> I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225. I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
> --James--
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when
> > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> > incline, even at very slow speed.
> >
> > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
> > light.
> >
> > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
> > at idle.
> >
> > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
> > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
> > medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >
> > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I
> > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
> > years and I know how it performs.
> >
> > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >
> > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just
> > to install a new radiator?
> >
> > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
> > (Water pump does not leak).
> >
> >
> > Thanks for any tips !!!
> >
> > --James--


SnoMan 01-14-2007 12:30 PM

Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 11:31:11 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the
>rad!



Without chasing all wthe way back through thread has he checked for a
hose collapsed internally blocking flow?
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan 01-14-2007 12:30 PM

Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 11:31:11 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the
>rad!



Without chasing all wthe way back through thread has he checked for a
hose collapsed internally blocking flow?
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan 01-14-2007 12:30 PM

Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
 
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 11:31:11 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>He HAS done this! He has 'no' coolant flow with the rad cap off the
>rad!



Without chasing all wthe way back through thread has he checked for a
hose collapsed internally blocking flow?
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com


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