Fixing exhaust lead
 

The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
erroded the mating surfaces.

Does this sound reasonable?

Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the fasterners
are used to hold both manifolds in place.

Thanks

Re: Fixing exhaust lead
 

On 15 mar, 08:59, "nrs" <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
> long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
> said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
> in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
> properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
> mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
> erroded the mating surfaces.
>
> Does this sound reasonable?
>
> Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
> the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the fasterners
> are used to hold both manifolds in place.
>
> Thanks

Any advice would be appreciated. I´m sure some of you have dealt with
this before. Thanks

Re: Fixing exhaust lead
 

On 15 mar, 08:59, "nrs" <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
> long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
> said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
> in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
> properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
> mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
> erroded the mating surfaces.
>
> Does this sound reasonable?
>
> Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
> the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the fasterners
> are used to hold both manifolds in place.
>
> Thanks

Any advice would be appreciated. I´m sure some of you have dealt with
this before. Thanks

Re: Fixing exhaust lead
 

On 15 mar, 08:59, "nrs" <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
> long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
> said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
> in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
> properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
> mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
> erroded the mating surfaces.
>
> Does this sound reasonable?
>
> Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
> the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the fasterners
> are used to hold both manifolds in place.
>
> Thanks

Any advice would be appreciated. I´m sure some of you have dealt with
this before. Thanks

Re: Fixing exhaust lead
 

nrs wrote:
> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
> long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
> said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
> in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
> properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
> mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
> erroded the mating surfaces.
>
> Does this sound reasonable?

Depends on how much damage has occurred. It might be minimal
or something that can be taken up with one of the better ringseal
type gaskets and some permatex copper. milling the head and
exhaust manifold is much more expensive than re-doing the gasket
so I'd probably try the gasket first. Then if it was necissary
I'd get an aftermarket set of headers for it and have the block
checked. Checking the block for erosion isn't too difficult
just time consuming.

> Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
> the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the fasterners
> are used to hold both manifolds in place.

This is an issue. Minor differences should be taken up by the cone washers
but yes, if they mill too much. That's why I suggest looking at a nice
set of headers.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

Re: Fixing exhaust lead
 

nrs wrote:
> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
> long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
> said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
> in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
> properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
> mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
> erroded the mating surfaces.
>
> Does this sound reasonable?

Depends on how much damage has occurred. It might be minimal
or something that can be taken up with one of the better ringseal
type gaskets and some permatex copper. milling the head and
exhaust manifold is much more expensive than re-doing the gasket
so I'd probably try the gasket first. Then if it was necissary
I'd get an aftermarket set of headers for it and have the block
checked. Checking the block for erosion isn't too difficult
just time consuming.

> Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
> the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the fasterners
> are used to hold both manifolds in place.

This is an issue. Minor differences should be taken up by the cone washers
but yes, if they mill too much. That's why I suggest looking at a nice
set of headers.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

Re: Fixing exhaust lead
 

nrs wrote:
> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
> long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
> said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
> in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
> properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
> mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
> erroded the mating surfaces.
>
> Does this sound reasonable?

Depends on how much damage has occurred. It might be minimal
or something that can be taken up with one of the better ringseal
type gaskets and some permatex copper. milling the head and
exhaust manifold is much more expensive than re-doing the gasket
so I'd probably try the gasket first. Then if it was necissary
I'd get an aftermarket set of headers for it and have the block
checked. Checking the block for erosion isn't too difficult
just time consuming.

> Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
> the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the fasterners
> are used to hold both manifolds in place.

This is an issue. Minor differences should be taken up by the cone washers
but yes, if they mill too much. That's why I suggest looking at a nice
set of headers.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

Re: Fixing exhaust lead
 

DougW wrote:
> nrs wrote:
>> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
>> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
>> long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
>> said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
>> in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
>> properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
>> mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
>> erroded the mating surfaces.
>>
>> Does this sound reasonable?
>
> Depends on how much damage has occurred. It might be minimal
> or something that can be taken up with one of the better ringseal
> type gaskets and some permatex copper. milling the head and
> exhaust manifold is much more expensive than re-doing the gasket
> so I'd probably try the gasket first. Then if it was necissary
> I'd get an aftermarket set of headers for it and have the block

er.. head checked.. like I need mine checked for calling the
head a block. guess I'm a block head.

> checked. Checking the block for erosion isn't too difficult
> just time consuming.
>
>> Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
>> the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the
>> fasterners are used to hold both manifolds in place.
>
> This is an issue. Minor differences should be taken up by the cone
> washers but yes, if they mill too much. That's why I suggest looking
> at a nice set of headers.

Re: Fixing exhaust lead
 

DougW wrote:
> nrs wrote:
>> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
>> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
>> long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
>> said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
>> in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
>> properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
>> mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
>> erroded the mating surfaces.
>>
>> Does this sound reasonable?
>
> Depends on how much damage has occurred. It might be minimal
> or something that can be taken up with one of the better ringseal
> type gaskets and some permatex copper. milling the head and
> exhaust manifold is much more expensive than re-doing the gasket
> so I'd probably try the gasket first. Then if it was necissary
> I'd get an aftermarket set of headers for it and have the block

er.. head checked.. like I need mine checked for calling the
head a block. guess I'm a block head.

> checked. Checking the block for erosion isn't too difficult
> just time consuming.
>
>> Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
>> the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the
>> fasterners are used to hold both manifolds in place.
>
> This is an issue. Minor differences should be taken up by the cone
> washers but yes, if they mill too much. That's why I suggest looking
> at a nice set of headers.

Re: Fixing exhaust lead
 

DougW wrote:
> nrs wrote:
>> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an
>> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how
>> long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he
>> said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put
>> in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal
>> properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and
>> mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have
>> erroded the mating surfaces.
>>
>> Does this sound reasonable?
>
> Depends on how much damage has occurred. It might be minimal
> or something that can be taken up with one of the better ringseal
> type gaskets and some permatex copper. milling the head and
> exhaust manifold is much more expensive than re-doing the gasket
> so I'd probably try the gasket first. Then if it was necissary
> I'd get an aftermarket set of headers for it and have the block

er.. head checked.. like I need mine checked for calling the
head a block. guess I'm a block head.

> checked. Checking the block for erosion isn't too difficult
> just time consuming.
>
>> Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at
>> the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the
>> fasterners are used to hold both manifolds in place.
>
> This is an issue. Minor differences should be taken up by the cone
> washers but yes, if they mill too much. That's why I suggest looking
> at a nice set of headers.