Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump
 

Hi Guys,
Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the I-6
engine with a Chevy V-8).
How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses the
steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give for
this swap.
('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
Best Regards,
Jim

Re: Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump
 

You should be able to cycle it side to side fairly easily if it's in a
vise. If it is a saganaw unit, it's rotation torque should be in inch
pounds so if it's tight, you might have issues. Or maybe it just tight
because it's dry....

There will be two threaded hose fittings on the top of it. One is in
and one is out. You can set it level and put a funnel in the in (front)
hole and fill it up. Then slowly cycle it side to side topping as
needed. I guess then you are going to have to put plugs in the holes or
put the two hoses in and just connect the hose ends together with a
chunk of flex tube and hose clamps.

I don't know if you can even use it without a reservoir. I think a fair
amount of fluid has to move when you turn it, could be wrong though.

Why don't you just put the pump on now and swap it over later? The pump
is the same and brackets aren't much.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Drink wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
> Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
> model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
> power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the I-6
> engine with a Chevy V-8).
> How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses the
> steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
> It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
> I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give for
> this swap.
> ('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
> Best Regards,
> Jim

Re: Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump
 

You should be able to cycle it side to side fairly easily if it's in a
vise. If it is a saganaw unit, it's rotation torque should be in inch
pounds so if it's tight, you might have issues. Or maybe it just tight
because it's dry....

There will be two threaded hose fittings on the top of it. One is in
and one is out. You can set it level and put a funnel in the in (front)
hole and fill it up. Then slowly cycle it side to side topping as
needed. I guess then you are going to have to put plugs in the holes or
put the two hoses in and just connect the hose ends together with a
chunk of flex tube and hose clamps.

I don't know if you can even use it without a reservoir. I think a fair
amount of fluid has to move when you turn it, could be wrong though.

Why don't you just put the pump on now and swap it over later? The pump
is the same and brackets aren't much.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Drink wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
> Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
> model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
> power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the I-6
> engine with a Chevy V-8).
> How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses the
> steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
> It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
> I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give for
> this swap.
> ('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
> Best Regards,
> Jim

Re: Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump
 

You should be able to cycle it side to side fairly easily if it's in a
vise. If it is a saganaw unit, it's rotation torque should be in inch
pounds so if it's tight, you might have issues. Or maybe it just tight
because it's dry....

There will be two threaded hose fittings on the top of it. One is in
and one is out. You can set it level and put a funnel in the in (front)
hole and fill it up. Then slowly cycle it side to side topping as
needed. I guess then you are going to have to put plugs in the holes or
put the two hoses in and just connect the hose ends together with a
chunk of flex tube and hose clamps.

I don't know if you can even use it without a reservoir. I think a fair
amount of fluid has to move when you turn it, could be wrong though.

Why don't you just put the pump on now and swap it over later? The pump
is the same and brackets aren't much.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Drink wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
> Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
> model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
> power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the I-6
> engine with a Chevy V-8).
> How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses the
> steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
> It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
> I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give for
> this swap.
> ('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
> Best Regards,
> Jim

Re: Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump and other neat stuff
 

Hi Mike,
I'm running a hose out one port and in the other to equalize any flow
necessary. I tried to pour fluid in but it was so slow (drops per minute)
because the holes are like an eighth inch in diameter. If a bubble formed,
it blocked flow. Whenever I cycled it back and forth, it would spit as much
as I'd just put in. It's a new box, so it's stiff as expected. Turning it
is like the pump failed. I hoped it wouldn't be quite that hard. How about
filling it through the adjusting screw hole like a manual?
I scoped out a couple of Jeep Cherokee's today that had power steering, an
'89 & a '90, both with what appeared to be a 242cid 6 cylinder. Will the
brackets, pump, hoses, etc fit? I have the 76 258 with what appears to be
an 80's model cylinder head and the one-piece aluminum 2bbl intake. The
intake has the two diagonal bolt holes for a bracket and water pump has two
bolt holes offset from the engine. Those 242's are kinda cluttered so it's
not easy to tell.
What would I need to do to swap the power brakes into mine? My 11" drums
just don't do it.
Now for the neat stuff. The junker had a 350 V8 out of a Corvette that
he'll sell for $1,000; tuned port injection and all. I think it'd slip into
the frame easy with a Chevy conversion kit, I can get a NV4500 with adapters
and connect it between the V8 and my Dana 300. What do you think? I'm not
sure about the problems though.
What's the best way to work TPI and ignition? I don't like the smog pump
and could take it out and put on the in-frame headers but still don't have
the computer or wiring harness. I don't know where the power steering pump
goes and the water pump outlet's on the wrong side. Clearing the
differential a problem? Driveshaft lengths?
Thanks for the advice. This could be very cool:)
Regards,
Jim
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:412E1DD5.A6CF37D7@sympatico.ca...
> You should be able to cycle it side to side fairly easily if it's in a
> vise. If it is a saganaw unit, it's rotation torque should be in inch
> pounds so if it's tight, you might have issues. Or maybe it just tight
> because it's dry....
>
> There will be two threaded hose fittings on the top of it. One is in
> and one is out. You can set it level and put a funnel in the in (front)
> hole and fill it up. Then slowly cycle it side to side topping as
> needed. I guess then you are going to have to put plugs in the holes or
> put the two hoses in and just connect the hose ends together with a
> chunk of flex tube and hose clamps.
>
> I don't know if you can even use it without a reservoir. I think a fair
> amount of fluid has to move when you turn it, could be wrong though.
>
> Why don't you just put the pump on now and swap it over later? The pump
> is the same and brackets aren't much.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Drink wrote:
> >
> > Hi Guys,
> > Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
> > model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
> > power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the
I-6
> > engine with a Chevy V-8).
> > How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses
the
> > steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
> > It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
> > I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give
for
> > this swap.
> > ('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
> > Best Regards,
> > Jim

Re: Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump and other neat stuff
 

Hi Mike,
I'm running a hose out one port and in the other to equalize any flow
necessary. I tried to pour fluid in but it was so slow (drops per minute)
because the holes are like an eighth inch in diameter. If a bubble formed,
it blocked flow. Whenever I cycled it back and forth, it would spit as much
as I'd just put in. It's a new box, so it's stiff as expected. Turning it
is like the pump failed. I hoped it wouldn't be quite that hard. How about
filling it through the adjusting screw hole like a manual?
I scoped out a couple of Jeep Cherokee's today that had power steering, an
'89 & a '90, both with what appeared to be a 242cid 6 cylinder. Will the
brackets, pump, hoses, etc fit? I have the 76 258 with what appears to be
an 80's model cylinder head and the one-piece aluminum 2bbl intake. The
intake has the two diagonal bolt holes for a bracket and water pump has two
bolt holes offset from the engine. Those 242's are kinda cluttered so it's
not easy to tell.
What would I need to do to swap the power brakes into mine? My 11" drums
just don't do it.
Now for the neat stuff. The junker had a 350 V8 out of a Corvette that
he'll sell for $1,000; tuned port injection and all. I think it'd slip into
the frame easy with a Chevy conversion kit, I can get a NV4500 with adapters
and connect it between the V8 and my Dana 300. What do you think? I'm not
sure about the problems though.
What's the best way to work TPI and ignition? I don't like the smog pump
and could take it out and put on the in-frame headers but still don't have
the computer or wiring harness. I don't know where the power steering pump
goes and the water pump outlet's on the wrong side. Clearing the
differential a problem? Driveshaft lengths?
Thanks for the advice. This could be very cool:)
Regards,
Jim
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:412E1DD5.A6CF37D7@sympatico.ca...
> You should be able to cycle it side to side fairly easily if it's in a
> vise. If it is a saganaw unit, it's rotation torque should be in inch
> pounds so if it's tight, you might have issues. Or maybe it just tight
> because it's dry....
>
> There will be two threaded hose fittings on the top of it. One is in
> and one is out. You can set it level and put a funnel in the in (front)
> hole and fill it up. Then slowly cycle it side to side topping as
> needed. I guess then you are going to have to put plugs in the holes or
> put the two hoses in and just connect the hose ends together with a
> chunk of flex tube and hose clamps.
>
> I don't know if you can even use it without a reservoir. I think a fair
> amount of fluid has to move when you turn it, could be wrong though.
>
> Why don't you just put the pump on now and swap it over later? The pump
> is the same and brackets aren't much.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Drink wrote:
> >
> > Hi Guys,
> > Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
> > model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
> > power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the
I-6
> > engine with a Chevy V-8).
> > How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses
the
> > steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
> > It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
> > I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give
for
> > this swap.
> > ('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
> > Best Regards,
> > Jim

Re: Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump and other neat stuff
 

Hi Mike,
I'm running a hose out one port and in the other to equalize any flow
necessary. I tried to pour fluid in but it was so slow (drops per minute)
because the holes are like an eighth inch in diameter. If a bubble formed,
it blocked flow. Whenever I cycled it back and forth, it would spit as much
as I'd just put in. It's a new box, so it's stiff as expected. Turning it
is like the pump failed. I hoped it wouldn't be quite that hard. How about
filling it through the adjusting screw hole like a manual?
I scoped out a couple of Jeep Cherokee's today that had power steering, an
'89 & a '90, both with what appeared to be a 242cid 6 cylinder. Will the
brackets, pump, hoses, etc fit? I have the 76 258 with what appears to be
an 80's model cylinder head and the one-piece aluminum 2bbl intake. The
intake has the two diagonal bolt holes for a bracket and water pump has two
bolt holes offset from the engine. Those 242's are kinda cluttered so it's
not easy to tell.
What would I need to do to swap the power brakes into mine? My 11" drums
just don't do it.
Now for the neat stuff. The junker had a 350 V8 out of a Corvette that
he'll sell for $1,000; tuned port injection and all. I think it'd slip into
the frame easy with a Chevy conversion kit, I can get a NV4500 with adapters
and connect it between the V8 and my Dana 300. What do you think? I'm not
sure about the problems though.
What's the best way to work TPI and ignition? I don't like the smog pump
and could take it out and put on the in-frame headers but still don't have
the computer or wiring harness. I don't know where the power steering pump
goes and the water pump outlet's on the wrong side. Clearing the
differential a problem? Driveshaft lengths?
Thanks for the advice. This could be very cool:)
Regards,
Jim
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:412E1DD5.A6CF37D7@sympatico.ca...
> You should be able to cycle it side to side fairly easily if it's in a
> vise. If it is a saganaw unit, it's rotation torque should be in inch
> pounds so if it's tight, you might have issues. Or maybe it just tight
> because it's dry....
>
> There will be two threaded hose fittings on the top of it. One is in
> and one is out. You can set it level and put a funnel in the in (front)
> hole and fill it up. Then slowly cycle it side to side topping as
> needed. I guess then you are going to have to put plugs in the holes or
> put the two hoses in and just connect the hose ends together with a
> chunk of flex tube and hose clamps.
>
> I don't know if you can even use it without a reservoir. I think a fair
> amount of fluid has to move when you turn it, could be wrong though.
>
> Why don't you just put the pump on now and swap it over later? The pump
> is the same and brackets aren't much.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Drink wrote:
> >
> > Hi Guys,
> > Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
> > model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
> > power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the
I-6
> > engine with a Chevy V-8).
> > How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses
the
> > steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
> > It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
> > I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give
for
> > this swap.
> > ('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
> > Best Regards,
> > Jim

Re: Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump and other neat stuff
 

You have something wrong according to what I just did and saw.

I helped a friend put new seals in his TJ's saganaw box and the shop
gave him some 'improved' parts that I couldn't get in right so we took
it to them and the pro let us watch them finish. It turned out to be a
bent box and his proper 'tool' went flying across the shop 3 times so I
was going right, I just didn't turn hard enough, whatever. They did it
for free. :-) These guys re-do CJ steering shafts with a new greasable
u-joint for $75.00 too....

He had it in a vise and adjusted the pitman shaft drag. (that is the
'adjusting screw' you are thinking about, but it isn't really, the side
to side slack adjuster is the column side end plug called the adjustment
plug ) It is only 4 inch lb! It is 'not' stiff at all. He was using a
wrench on the steering shaft spline to get it right for his feel, but I
could turn the steering shaft spline with my fingers with difficulty and
easily with any pliers to center it for installation.

Here is a link to the box and how it should work:
http://www.----------.com/97TJpowersteering.pdf

I would hold the hose up with a funnel in it and let it fill. So it
takes a day....

I will have to look at my Cherokee later tonight or tomorrow morning to
see if the pump and bracket look the same, doubt it somehow.

Power brakes are a pile of work and actually do not help the stopping
power at all on the CJ's that I have seen. My old tenant had an 85 with
manual brakes and I have power. His actually stopped faster than mine
with 'less' push on the pedal.... We both had new sets in the test. Go
figure...

A 350 will fit in, but you need all the electronic crap to run it unless
you get a carb setup. I would prefer a carb myself.... Way less to
screw up. There is nothing like a set of 4 bbl's opening up for a sweet
sound and punch! Plus tuned right they get better mileage on a trip if
you watch the pedal.

Although I do like the 350's, I stayed with a tight low mileage 258 when
I did my frame up 'glass build. I get nice off road power with it and
decent highway performance. It will bury the speedo easy and I get a
nice 23 US mpg or 11 L/100km. Mine is a daily driver though....

Mike

Drink wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> I'm running a hose out one port and in the other to equalize any flow
> necessary. I tried to pour fluid in but it was so slow (drops per minute)
> because the holes are like an eighth inch in diameter. If a bubble formed,
> it blocked flow. Whenever I cycled it back and forth, it would spit as much
> as I'd just put in. It's a new box, so it's stiff as expected. Turning it
> is like the pump failed. I hoped it wouldn't be quite that hard. How about
> filling it through the adjusting screw hole like a manual?
> I scoped out a couple of Jeep Cherokee's today that had power steering, an
> '89 & a '90, both with what appeared to be a 242cid 6 cylinder. Will the
> brackets, pump, hoses, etc fit? I have the 76 258 with what appears to be
> an 80's model cylinder head and the one-piece aluminum 2bbl intake. The
> intake has the two diagonal bolt holes for a bracket and water pump has two
> bolt holes offset from the engine. Those 242's are kinda cluttered so it's
> not easy to tell.
> What would I need to do to swap the power brakes into mine? My 11" drums
> just don't do it.
> Now for the neat stuff. The junker had a 350 V8 out of a Corvette that
> he'll sell for $1,000; tuned port injection and all. I think it'd slip into
> the frame easy with a Chevy conversion kit, I can get a NV4500 with adapters
> and connect it between the V8 and my Dana 300. What do you think? I'm not
> sure about the problems though.
> What's the best way to work TPI and ignition? I don't like the smog pump
> and could take it out and put on the in-frame headers but still don't have
> the computer or wiring harness. I don't know where the power steering pump
> goes and the water pump outlet's on the wrong side. Clearing the
> differential a problem? Driveshaft lengths?
> Thanks for the advice. This could be very cool:)
> Regards,
> Jim
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:412E1DD5.A6CF37D7@sympatico.ca...
> > You should be able to cycle it side to side fairly easily if it's in a
> > vise. If it is a saganaw unit, it's rotation torque should be in inch
> > pounds so if it's tight, you might have issues. Or maybe it just tight
> > because it's dry....
> >
> > There will be two threaded hose fittings on the top of it. One is in
> > and one is out. You can set it level and put a funnel in the in (front)
> > hole and fill it up. Then slowly cycle it side to side topping as
> > needed. I guess then you are going to have to put plugs in the holes or
> > put the two hoses in and just connect the hose ends together with a
> > chunk of flex tube and hose clamps.
> >
> > I don't know if you can even use it without a reservoir. I think a fair
> > amount of fluid has to move when you turn it, could be wrong though.
> >
> > Why don't you just put the pump on now and swap it over later? The pump
> > is the same and brackets aren't much.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Guys,
> > > Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
> > > model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
> > > power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the
> I-6
> > > engine with a Chevy V-8).
> > > How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses
> the
> > > steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
> > > It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
> > > I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give
> for
> > > this swap.
> > > ('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
> > > Best Regards,
> > > Jim

Re: Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump and other neat stuff
 

You have something wrong according to what I just did and saw.

I helped a friend put new seals in his TJ's saganaw box and the shop
gave him some 'improved' parts that I couldn't get in right so we took
it to them and the pro let us watch them finish. It turned out to be a
bent box and his proper 'tool' went flying across the shop 3 times so I
was going right, I just didn't turn hard enough, whatever. They did it
for free. :-) These guys re-do CJ steering shafts with a new greasable
u-joint for $75.00 too....

He had it in a vise and adjusted the pitman shaft drag. (that is the
'adjusting screw' you are thinking about, but it isn't really, the side
to side slack adjuster is the column side end plug called the adjustment
plug ) It is only 4 inch lb! It is 'not' stiff at all. He was using a
wrench on the steering shaft spline to get it right for his feel, but I
could turn the steering shaft spline with my fingers with difficulty and
easily with any pliers to center it for installation.

Here is a link to the box and how it should work:
http://www.----------.com/97TJpowersteering.pdf

I would hold the hose up with a funnel in it and let it fill. So it
takes a day....

I will have to look at my Cherokee later tonight or tomorrow morning to
see if the pump and bracket look the same, doubt it somehow.

Power brakes are a pile of work and actually do not help the stopping
power at all on the CJ's that I have seen. My old tenant had an 85 with
manual brakes and I have power. His actually stopped faster than mine
with 'less' push on the pedal.... We both had new sets in the test. Go
figure...

A 350 will fit in, but you need all the electronic crap to run it unless
you get a carb setup. I would prefer a carb myself.... Way less to
screw up. There is nothing like a set of 4 bbl's opening up for a sweet
sound and punch! Plus tuned right they get better mileage on a trip if
you watch the pedal.

Although I do like the 350's, I stayed with a tight low mileage 258 when
I did my frame up 'glass build. I get nice off road power with it and
decent highway performance. It will bury the speedo easy and I get a
nice 23 US mpg or 11 L/100km. Mine is a daily driver though....

Mike

Drink wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> I'm running a hose out one port and in the other to equalize any flow
> necessary. I tried to pour fluid in but it was so slow (drops per minute)
> because the holes are like an eighth inch in diameter. If a bubble formed,
> it blocked flow. Whenever I cycled it back and forth, it would spit as much
> as I'd just put in. It's a new box, so it's stiff as expected. Turning it
> is like the pump failed. I hoped it wouldn't be quite that hard. How about
> filling it through the adjusting screw hole like a manual?
> I scoped out a couple of Jeep Cherokee's today that had power steering, an
> '89 & a '90, both with what appeared to be a 242cid 6 cylinder. Will the
> brackets, pump, hoses, etc fit? I have the 76 258 with what appears to be
> an 80's model cylinder head and the one-piece aluminum 2bbl intake. The
> intake has the two diagonal bolt holes for a bracket and water pump has two
> bolt holes offset from the engine. Those 242's are kinda cluttered so it's
> not easy to tell.
> What would I need to do to swap the power brakes into mine? My 11" drums
> just don't do it.
> Now for the neat stuff. The junker had a 350 V8 out of a Corvette that
> he'll sell for $1,000; tuned port injection and all. I think it'd slip into
> the frame easy with a Chevy conversion kit, I can get a NV4500 with adapters
> and connect it between the V8 and my Dana 300. What do you think? I'm not
> sure about the problems though.
> What's the best way to work TPI and ignition? I don't like the smog pump
> and could take it out and put on the in-frame headers but still don't have
> the computer or wiring harness. I don't know where the power steering pump
> goes and the water pump outlet's on the wrong side. Clearing the
> differential a problem? Driveshaft lengths?
> Thanks for the advice. This could be very cool:)
> Regards,
> Jim
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:412E1DD5.A6CF37D7@sympatico.ca...
> > You should be able to cycle it side to side fairly easily if it's in a
> > vise. If it is a saganaw unit, it's rotation torque should be in inch
> > pounds so if it's tight, you might have issues. Or maybe it just tight
> > because it's dry....
> >
> > There will be two threaded hose fittings on the top of it. One is in
> > and one is out. You can set it level and put a funnel in the in (front)
> > hole and fill it up. Then slowly cycle it side to side topping as
> > needed. I guess then you are going to have to put plugs in the holes or
> > put the two hoses in and just connect the hose ends together with a
> > chunk of flex tube and hose clamps.
> >
> > I don't know if you can even use it without a reservoir. I think a fair
> > amount of fluid has to move when you turn it, could be wrong though.
> >
> > Why don't you just put the pump on now and swap it over later? The pump
> > is the same and brackets aren't much.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Guys,
> > > Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
> > > model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
> > > power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the
> I-6
> > > engine with a Chevy V-8).
> > > How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses
> the
> > > steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
> > > It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
> > > I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give
> for
> > > this swap.
> > > ('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
> > > Best Regards,
> > > Jim

Re: Filling Power Steering Gearbox Without the Pump and other neat stuff
 

You have something wrong according to what I just did and saw.

I helped a friend put new seals in his TJ's saganaw box and the shop
gave him some 'improved' parts that I couldn't get in right so we took
it to them and the pro let us watch them finish. It turned out to be a
bent box and his proper 'tool' went flying across the shop 3 times so I
was going right, I just didn't turn hard enough, whatever. They did it
for free. :-) These guys re-do CJ steering shafts with a new greasable
u-joint for $75.00 too....

He had it in a vise and adjusted the pitman shaft drag. (that is the
'adjusting screw' you are thinking about, but it isn't really, the side
to side slack adjuster is the column side end plug called the adjustment
plug ) It is only 4 inch lb! It is 'not' stiff at all. He was using a
wrench on the steering shaft spline to get it right for his feel, but I
could turn the steering shaft spline with my fingers with difficulty and
easily with any pliers to center it for installation.

Here is a link to the box and how it should work:
http://www.----------.com/97TJpowersteering.pdf

I would hold the hose up with a funnel in it and let it fill. So it
takes a day....

I will have to look at my Cherokee later tonight or tomorrow morning to
see if the pump and bracket look the same, doubt it somehow.

Power brakes are a pile of work and actually do not help the stopping
power at all on the CJ's that I have seen. My old tenant had an 85 with
manual brakes and I have power. His actually stopped faster than mine
with 'less' push on the pedal.... We both had new sets in the test. Go
figure...

A 350 will fit in, but you need all the electronic crap to run it unless
you get a carb setup. I would prefer a carb myself.... Way less to
screw up. There is nothing like a set of 4 bbl's opening up for a sweet
sound and punch! Plus tuned right they get better mileage on a trip if
you watch the pedal.

Although I do like the 350's, I stayed with a tight low mileage 258 when
I did my frame up 'glass build. I get nice off road power with it and
decent highway performance. It will bury the speedo easy and I get a
nice 23 US mpg or 11 L/100km. Mine is a daily driver though....

Mike

Drink wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> I'm running a hose out one port and in the other to equalize any flow
> necessary. I tried to pour fluid in but it was so slow (drops per minute)
> because the holes are like an eighth inch in diameter. If a bubble formed,
> it blocked flow. Whenever I cycled it back and forth, it would spit as much
> as I'd just put in. It's a new box, so it's stiff as expected. Turning it
> is like the pump failed. I hoped it wouldn't be quite that hard. How about
> filling it through the adjusting screw hole like a manual?
> I scoped out a couple of Jeep Cherokee's today that had power steering, an
> '89 & a '90, both with what appeared to be a 242cid 6 cylinder. Will the
> brackets, pump, hoses, etc fit? I have the 76 258 with what appears to be
> an 80's model cylinder head and the one-piece aluminum 2bbl intake. The
> intake has the two diagonal bolt holes for a bracket and water pump has two
> bolt holes offset from the engine. Those 242's are kinda cluttered so it's
> not easy to tell.
> What would I need to do to swap the power brakes into mine? My 11" drums
> just don't do it.
> Now for the neat stuff. The junker had a 350 V8 out of a Corvette that
> he'll sell for $1,000; tuned port injection and all. I think it'd slip into
> the frame easy with a Chevy conversion kit, I can get a NV4500 with adapters
> and connect it between the V8 and my Dana 300. What do you think? I'm not
> sure about the problems though.
> What's the best way to work TPI and ignition? I don't like the smog pump
> and could take it out and put on the in-frame headers but still don't have
> the computer or wiring harness. I don't know where the power steering pump
> goes and the water pump outlet's on the wrong side. Clearing the
> differential a problem? Driveshaft lengths?
> Thanks for the advice. This could be very cool:)
> Regards,
> Jim
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:412E1DD5.A6CF37D7@sympatico.ca...
> > You should be able to cycle it side to side fairly easily if it's in a
> > vise. If it is a saganaw unit, it's rotation torque should be in inch
> > pounds so if it's tight, you might have issues. Or maybe it just tight
> > because it's dry....
> >
> > There will be two threaded hose fittings on the top of it. One is in
> > and one is out. You can set it level and put a funnel in the in (front)
> > hole and fill it up. Then slowly cycle it side to side topping as
> > needed. I guess then you are going to have to put plugs in the holes or
> > put the two hoses in and just connect the hose ends together with a
> > chunk of flex tube and hose clamps.
> >
> > I don't know if you can even use it without a reservoir. I think a fair
> > amount of fluid has to move when you turn it, could be wrong though.
> >
> > Why don't you just put the pump on now and swap it over later? The pump
> > is the same and brackets aren't much.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Guys,
> > > Just replaced my manual steering gear box with an AGR power steering
> > > model. The manual gave up the ghost and I had to do the swap minus the
> > > power steering pump and bracket. (Planned to do it when I changed the
> I-6
> > > engine with a Chevy V-8).
> > > How can I fill it with power steering fluid without the pump? It uses
> the
> > > steering fluid as lube throughout, correct?
> > > It's difficult to turn but it's got no slop either:)
> > > I really appreciate any tips, experience or advice any of you can give
> for
> > > this swap.
> > > ('76 Jeep CJ-7, 258 => Chevy V-8)
> > > Best Regards,
> > > Jim