|
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
"serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:934d0785.0308211254.5f26e6ad@posting.google.c om... > thanks for all the advice jeff! i'm doing the 4.0 HO head swap too. > can't you tell i've been thinking about this project for a while? :) > rebuilt short block, 4.0 HO head and mpi. i hope it's worth the cost > and trouble. i'm planning to keep the jeep for a while anyway > so...might as well do it right the first time. > > regarding the fuel line relocation-wouldn't running the lines on the > driver's side frame rail make it come too close to the exhaust pipe? i > guess i could follow the brake lines going towards the back...and it > would make the installation that much easier-no need for an 8 foot > long piece of fi hose going around the front of the engine under the > radiator. > The fuel pipe shares the clamps that hold the brake pipes, so it should be far enough from the exhaust system to avoid problems. > good tips on the washers when installng the CPS. i'm hoping the 4.0 > head will get rid of the pinging problems. i have an engine stand > waiting in the garage to aid me with the installation of the manifold, > etc. i figured i can put the whole thing together and drop it onto > the frame. kinda nice having nothing on it! heck, i could install > the long block on the frame and then install the rest. > > I think it would be easier to work on the engine stand, then drop the whole thing into the frame. The header will not exxtend very far behind the block, or below, so it should drop right in as a complete engine. > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com>... > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can > > complete the project. > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have the > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the 4.0 > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a 90° > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The softer > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one off > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of the > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple of > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. The > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was a > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, and > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet or > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis will have > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers, > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the regulation > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give results > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even after > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators, > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original > > test was not performed correctly. |
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
"serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:934d0785.0308211254.5f26e6ad@posting.google.c om... > thanks for all the advice jeff! i'm doing the 4.0 HO head swap too. > can't you tell i've been thinking about this project for a while? :) > rebuilt short block, 4.0 HO head and mpi. i hope it's worth the cost > and trouble. i'm planning to keep the jeep for a while anyway > so...might as well do it right the first time. > > regarding the fuel line relocation-wouldn't running the lines on the > driver's side frame rail make it come too close to the exhaust pipe? i > guess i could follow the brake lines going towards the back...and it > would make the installation that much easier-no need for an 8 foot > long piece of fi hose going around the front of the engine under the > radiator. > The fuel pipe shares the clamps that hold the brake pipes, so it should be far enough from the exhaust system to avoid problems. > good tips on the washers when installng the CPS. i'm hoping the 4.0 > head will get rid of the pinging problems. i have an engine stand > waiting in the garage to aid me with the installation of the manifold, > etc. i figured i can put the whole thing together and drop it onto > the frame. kinda nice having nothing on it! heck, i could install > the long block on the frame and then install the rest. > > I think it would be easier to work on the engine stand, then drop the whole thing into the frame. The header will not exxtend very far behind the block, or below, so it should drop right in as a complete engine. > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com>... > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can > > complete the project. > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have the > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the 4.0 > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a 90° > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The softer > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one off > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of the > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple of > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. The > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was a > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, and > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet or > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis will have > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers, > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the regulation > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give results > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even after > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators, > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original > > test was not performed correctly. |
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
I forgot to mention, the most significant "problem" I had with my MPFI
install was the air conditioning bracket used to hold the tensioner for the belt. This bracket is on hte front of the motor, immediately next to the intake manifold, and the thermostat housing. The Kit's temp sensor mounts to the tstat housing, and this gets in the way of the tensioner bracket. To get around this problem, you will need to get a T-fitting and install it in the heater hose line, then attach the sensor to this fitting. "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:934d0785.0308211254.5f26e6ad@posting.google.c om... > thanks for all the advice jeff! i'm doing the 4.0 HO head swap too. > can't you tell i've been thinking about this project for a while? :) > rebuilt short block, 4.0 HO head and mpi. i hope it's worth the cost > and trouble. i'm planning to keep the jeep for a while anyway > so...might as well do it right the first time. > > regarding the fuel line relocation-wouldn't running the lines on the > driver's side frame rail make it come too close to the exhaust pipe? i > guess i could follow the brake lines going towards the back...and it > would make the installation that much easier-no need for an 8 foot > long piece of fi hose going around the front of the engine under the > radiator. > > good tips on the washers when installng the CPS. i'm hoping the 4.0 > head will get rid of the pinging problems. i have an engine stand > waiting in the garage to aid me with the installation of the manifold, > etc. i figured i can put the whole thing together and drop it onto > the frame. kinda nice having nothing on it! heck, i could install > the long block on the frame and then install the rest. > > > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com>... > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can > > complete the project. > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have the > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the 4.0 > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a 90° > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The softer > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one off > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of the > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple of > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. The > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was a > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, and > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet or > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis will have > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers, > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the regulation > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give results > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even after > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators, > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original > > test was not performed correctly. |
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
I forgot to mention, the most significant "problem" I had with my MPFI
install was the air conditioning bracket used to hold the tensioner for the belt. This bracket is on hte front of the motor, immediately next to the intake manifold, and the thermostat housing. The Kit's temp sensor mounts to the tstat housing, and this gets in the way of the tensioner bracket. To get around this problem, you will need to get a T-fitting and install it in the heater hose line, then attach the sensor to this fitting. "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:934d0785.0308211254.5f26e6ad@posting.google.c om... > thanks for all the advice jeff! i'm doing the 4.0 HO head swap too. > can't you tell i've been thinking about this project for a while? :) > rebuilt short block, 4.0 HO head and mpi. i hope it's worth the cost > and trouble. i'm planning to keep the jeep for a while anyway > so...might as well do it right the first time. > > regarding the fuel line relocation-wouldn't running the lines on the > driver's side frame rail make it come too close to the exhaust pipe? i > guess i could follow the brake lines going towards the back...and it > would make the installation that much easier-no need for an 8 foot > long piece of fi hose going around the front of the engine under the > radiator. > > good tips on the washers when installng the CPS. i'm hoping the 4.0 > head will get rid of the pinging problems. i have an engine stand > waiting in the garage to aid me with the installation of the manifold, > etc. i figured i can put the whole thing together and drop it onto > the frame. kinda nice having nothing on it! heck, i could install > the long block on the frame and then install the rest. > > > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com>... > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can > > complete the project. > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have the > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the 4.0 > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a 90° > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The softer > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one off > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of the > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple of > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. The > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was a > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, and > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet or > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis will have > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers, > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the regulation > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give results > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even after > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators, > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original > > test was not performed correctly. |
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
bill-where in california are you? i'm in the sf bay...
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:<bi44i1$54c5r$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de>... > Jeff, you are in California and have the 4.0L head on a 4.2L? Did the smog > nazis not see this? This is not permitted under California law is it? > > I have the 4.0L head available but didn't put it on this time. Perhaps next > time I'll put it on. > > Thanks, > > bill > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com... > > > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can > > complete the project. > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have > the > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the > 4.0 > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a > 90° > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The > softer > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one > off > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of > the > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple > of > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. > The > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was > a > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, > and > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet > or > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis will > have > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers, > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the > regulation > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give > results > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even > after > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators, > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original > > test was not performed correctly. > > > > |
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
bill-where in california are you? i'm in the sf bay...
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:<bi44i1$54c5r$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de>... > Jeff, you are in California and have the 4.0L head on a 4.2L? Did the smog > nazis not see this? This is not permitted under California law is it? > > I have the 4.0L head available but didn't put it on this time. Perhaps next > time I'll put it on. > > Thanks, > > bill > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com... > > > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can > > complete the project. > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have > the > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the > 4.0 > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a > 90° > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The > softer > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one > off > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of > the > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple > of > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. > The > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was > a > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, > and > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet > or > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis will > have > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers, > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the > regulation > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give > results > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even > after > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators, > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original > > test was not performed correctly. > > > > |
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
Hi Serg,
I'm in South Orange County Ca. I have an appt in Newport Beach where I seem to be successfully sliding this MPI installation by my appt manager :-) bill "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:934d0785.0308221406.28d36d0@posting.google.co m... > bill-where in california are you? i'm in the sf bay... > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:<bi44i1$54c5r$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de>... > > Jeff, you are in California and have the 4.0L head on a 4.2L? Did the smog > > nazis not see this? This is not permitted under California law is it? > > > > I have the 4.0L head available but didn't put it on this time. Perhaps next > > time I'll put it on. > > > > Thanks, > > > > bill > > > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install > > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can > > > complete the project. > > > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have > > the > > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the > > 4.0 > > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a > > 90° > > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The > > softer > > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one > > off > > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of > > the > > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple > > of > > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. > > The > > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand > > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay > > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was > > a > > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame > > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from > > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame > > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to > > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job > > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the > > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, > > and > > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back > > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet > > or > > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few > > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is > > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis will > > have > > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be > > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers, > > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look > > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the > > regulation > > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of > > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give > > results > > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even > > after > > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators, > > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original > > > test was not performed correctly. > > > > > > |
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
Hi Serg,
I'm in South Orange County Ca. I have an appt in Newport Beach where I seem to be successfully sliding this MPI installation by my appt manager :-) bill "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:934d0785.0308221406.28d36d0@posting.google.co m... > bill-where in california are you? i'm in the sf bay... > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:<bi44i1$54c5r$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de>... > > Jeff, you are in California and have the 4.0L head on a 4.2L? Did the smog > > nazis not see this? This is not permitted under California law is it? > > > > I have the 4.0L head available but didn't put it on this time. Perhaps next > > time I'll put it on. > > > > Thanks, > > > > bill > > > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install > > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can > > > complete the project. > > > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have > > the > > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the > > 4.0 > > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a > > 90° > > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The > > softer > > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one > > off > > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of > > the > > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple > > of > > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. > > The > > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand > > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay > > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was > > a > > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame > > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from > > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame > > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to > > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job > > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the > > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, > > and > > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back > > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet > > or > > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few > > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is > > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis will > > have > > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be > > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers, > > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look > > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the > > regulation > > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of > > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give > > results > > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even > > after > > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators, > > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original > > > test was not performed correctly. > > > > > > |
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
hahah! i still remember working on the jeep on the student housing parking
lot....had to sneak around so the manager wouldn't get mad....those were the days.... u sure u don't want to install that 4.0 head? "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:bi6ott$5j5ue$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > Hi Serg, > > I'm in South Orange County Ca. I have an appt in Newport Beach where I > seem to be successfully sliding this MPI installation by my appt manager :-) > > bill > > > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:934d0785.0308221406.28d36d0@posting.google.co m... > > bill-where in california are you? i'm in the sf bay... > > > > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:<bi44i1$54c5r$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de>... > > > Jeff, you are in California and have the 4.0L head on a 4.2L? Did the > smog > > > nazis not see this? This is not permitted under California law is it? > > > > > > I have the 4.0L head available but didn't put it on this time. Perhaps > next > > > time I'll put it on. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > bill > > > > > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > news:vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to > install > > > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you > can > > > > complete the project. > > > > > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can > have > > > the > > > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on > the > > > 4.0 > > > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes > a > > > 90° > > > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The > > > softer > > > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old > one > > > off > > > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front > of > > > the > > > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a > couple > > > of > > > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to > pinging. > > > The > > > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine > stand > > > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine > bay > > > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this > was > > > a > > > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side > frame > > > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect > from > > > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side > frame > > > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes > to > > > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the > job > > > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting > the > > > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the > motor, > > > and > > > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the > back > > > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several > feet > > > or > > > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a > few > > > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my > Jeep is > > > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis > will > > > have > > > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should > be > > > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. > stickers, > > > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST > look > > > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the > > > regulation > > > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all > of > > > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give > > > results > > > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even > > > after > > > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state > regulators, > > > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the > original > > > > test was not performed correctly. > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: Exhaust Manifold/Intake Manifold mPi, continued.
hahah! i still remember working on the jeep on the student housing parking
lot....had to sneak around so the manager wouldn't get mad....those were the days.... u sure u don't want to install that 4.0 head? "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:bi6ott$5j5ue$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de... > Hi Serg, > > I'm in South Orange County Ca. I have an appt in Newport Beach where I > seem to be successfully sliding this MPI installation by my appt manager :-) > > bill > > > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:934d0785.0308221406.28d36d0@posting.google.co m... > > bill-where in california are you? i'm in the sf bay... > > > > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:<bi44i1$54c5r$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de>... > > > Jeff, you are in California and have the 4.0L head on a 4.2L? Did the > smog > > > nazis not see this? This is not permitted under California law is it? > > > > > > I have the 4.0L head available but didn't put it on this time. Perhaps > next > > > time I'll put it on. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > bill > > > > > > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > news:vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > > news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om... > > > > > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the > > > > > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake > > > > > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's > > > > > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult... > > > > > > > > > If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to > install > > > > pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you > can > > > > complete the project. > > > > > > > > While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can > have > > > the > > > > head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on > the > > > 4.0 > > > > than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes > a > > > 90° > > > > bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The > > > softer > > > > bend increases the air flow, which improves the power. > > > > > > > > Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old > one > > > off > > > > so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front > of > > > the > > > > oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a > couple > > > of > > > > degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to > pinging. > > > The > > > > washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the > > > > washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine > stand > > > > while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine > bay > > > > with the exhaust manifold/header installed. > > > > > > > > Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the > > > > passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this > was > > > a > > > > worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side > frame > > > > rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect > from > > > > passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side > frame > > > > rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes > to > > > > the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the > job > > > > will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting > the > > > > cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the > motor, > > > and > > > > getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the > back > > > > brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several > feet > > > or > > > > hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a > few > > > > inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys > > > > follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my > Jeep is > > > > pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.) > > > > > > > > Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog Nazis > will > > > have > > > > a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should > be > > > > based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. > stickers, > > > > there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your > > > > system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST > look > > > > in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the > > > regulation > > > > book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all > of > > > > the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give > > > results > > > > of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even > > > after > > > > I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state > regulators, > > > > and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the > original > > > > test was not performed correctly. > > > > > > > > > > |
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