Now that I've had a few more minutes to think about this I have a
suggestion. Next time you are there, you could remove the distributer
and take it to someone who has one of those old Sun distributer
analyzers. It takes 1 minute to se
merrill wrote:
> I agree!
>
> I had a 1974 Mustang that died suddenly and wouldn't start. Twenty
> minutes later it started and ran for 10 minutes. The problem was the
> condenser (capacitor).
>
> I would suspect the condenser failing and shorting the coil input to
> ground, an overheated coil, the points temporarily welding together (or
> severely pitted to make bad contact) or possibly a defective
> distributer cap/rotor.
>
> I would disconnect the condenser temporarily when it fails and see if
> it starts. If that works, replace it immediately or you will certainly
> weld your points together in a very short time.
>
> Merrill
>
> I believe your
> DougW wrote:
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > I would be thinking points and condenser. Maybe even the hold down
> > > foot on the distributor. I have seen that rusty on some old engines
> > > so the points or distributor wasn't grounded.
> >
> > OOOO.. Points! Now there is something I bet quite a few folks
> > these days know nothing about. :) (1)
> >
> > Lemme try to remember.. the little braided wire corrodes,
> > the points wear and don't match flat, the spring sproings its
> > last sproing, the condenser goes out and your radio picks up only
> > the buzzzzzzzzz station just before the points arc out. And a
> > feeler gauge is not for setting spark plug gaps.
> >
> > (1)Except the car nuts and us older than dirt folk.
> >
> > --
> > DougW

 

Sorry, don't know what happened there. My mouse is acting erratically.

It only takes 1 minute to set the timing after removing the
distributer. And for the few dollars it would cost, I would change the
coil (and check the ground wire) because it is probably ready to fail
anyway.

Merrill

merrill wrote:
> Now that I've had a few more minutes to think about this I have a
> suggestion. Next time you are there, you could remove the distributer
> and take it to someone who has one of those old Sun distributer
> analyzers. It takes 1 minute to se
> merrill wrote:
> > I agree!
> >
> > I had a 1974 Mustang that died suddenly and wouldn't start. Twenty
> > minutes later it started and ran for 10 minutes. The problem was the
> > condenser (capacitor).
> >
> > I would suspect the condenser failing and shorting the coil input to
> > ground, an overheated coil, the points temporarily welding together (or
> > severely pitted to make bad contact) or possibly a defective
> > distributer cap/rotor.
> >
> > I would disconnect the condenser temporarily when it fails and see if
> > it starts. If that works, replace it immediately or you will certainly
> > weld your points together in a very short time.
> >
> > Merrill
> >
> > I believe your
> > DougW wrote:
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I would be thinking points and condenser. Maybe even the hold down
> > > > foot on the distributor. I have seen that rusty on some old engines
> > > > so the points or distributor wasn't grounded.
> > >
> > > OOOO.. Points! Now there is something I bet quite a few folks
> > > these days know nothing about. :) (1)
> > >
> > > Lemme try to remember.. the little braided wire corrodes,
> > > the points wear and don't match flat, the spring sproings its
> > > last sproing, the condenser goes out and your radio picks up only
> > > the buzzzzzzzzz station just before the points arc out. And a
> > > feeler gauge is not for setting spark plug gaps.
> > >
> > > (1)Except the car nuts and us older than dirt folk.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW

 

Sorry, don't know what happened there. My mouse is acting erratically.

It only takes 1 minute to set the timing after removing the
distributer. And for the few dollars it would cost, I would change the
coil (and check the ground wire) because it is probably ready to fail
anyway.

Merrill

merrill wrote:
> Now that I've had a few more minutes to think about this I have a
> suggestion. Next time you are there, you could remove the distributer
> and take it to someone who has one of those old Sun distributer
> analyzers. It takes 1 minute to se
> merrill wrote:
> > I agree!
> >
> > I had a 1974 Mustang that died suddenly and wouldn't start. Twenty
> > minutes later it started and ran for 10 minutes. The problem was the
> > condenser (capacitor).
> >
> > I would suspect the condenser failing and shorting the coil input to
> > ground, an overheated coil, the points temporarily welding together (or
> > severely pitted to make bad contact) or possibly a defective
> > distributer cap/rotor.
> >
> > I would disconnect the condenser temporarily when it fails and see if
> > it starts. If that works, replace it immediately or you will certainly
> > weld your points together in a very short time.
> >
> > Merrill
> >
> > I believe your
> > DougW wrote:
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I would be thinking points and condenser. Maybe even the hold down
> > > > foot on the distributor. I have seen that rusty on some old engines
> > > > so the points or distributor wasn't grounded.
> > >
> > > OOOO.. Points! Now there is something I bet quite a few folks
> > > these days know nothing about. :) (1)
> > >
> > > Lemme try to remember.. the little braided wire corrodes,
> > > the points wear and don't match flat, the spring sproings its
> > > last sproing, the condenser goes out and your radio picks up only
> > > the buzzzzzzzzz station just before the points arc out. And a
> > > feeler gauge is not for setting spark plug gaps.
> > >
> > > (1)Except the car nuts and us older than dirt folk.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW

 

Sorry, don't know what happened there. My mouse is acting erratically.

It only takes 1 minute to set the timing after removing the
distributer. And for the few dollars it would cost, I would change the
coil (and check the ground wire) because it is probably ready to fail
anyway.

Merrill

merrill wrote:
> Now that I've had a few more minutes to think about this I have a
> suggestion. Next time you are there, you could remove the distributer
> and take it to someone who has one of those old Sun distributer
> analyzers. It takes 1 minute to se
> merrill wrote:
> > I agree!
> >
> > I had a 1974 Mustang that died suddenly and wouldn't start. Twenty
> > minutes later it started and ran for 10 minutes. The problem was the
> > condenser (capacitor).
> >
> > I would suspect the condenser failing and shorting the coil input to
> > ground, an overheated coil, the points temporarily welding together (or
> > severely pitted to make bad contact) or possibly a defective
> > distributer cap/rotor.
> >
> > I would disconnect the condenser temporarily when it fails and see if
> > it starts. If that works, replace it immediately or you will certainly
> > weld your points together in a very short time.
> >
> > Merrill
> >
> > I believe your
> > DougW wrote:
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I would be thinking points and condenser. Maybe even the hold down
> > > > foot on the distributor. I have seen that rusty on some old engines
> > > > so the points or distributor wasn't grounded.
> > >
> > > OOOO.. Points! Now there is something I bet quite a few folks
> > > these days know nothing about. :) (1)
> > >
> > > Lemme try to remember.. the little braided wire corrodes,
> > > the points wear and don't match flat, the spring sproings its
> > > last sproing, the condenser goes out and your radio picks up only
> > > the buzzzzzzzzz station just before the points arc out. And a
> > > feeler gauge is not for setting spark plug gaps.
> > >
> > > (1)Except the car nuts and us older than dirt folk.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW

 

Sorry, don't know what happened there. My mouse is acting erratically.

It only takes 1 minute to set the timing after removing the
distributer. And for the few dollars it would cost, I would change the
coil (and check the ground wire) because it is probably ready to fail
anyway.

Merrill

merrill wrote:
> Now that I've had a few more minutes to think about this I have a
> suggestion. Next time you are there, you could remove the distributer
> and take it to someone who has one of those old Sun distributer
> analyzers. It takes 1 minute to se
> merrill wrote:
> > I agree!
> >
> > I had a 1974 Mustang that died suddenly and wouldn't start. Twenty
> > minutes later it started and ran for 10 minutes. The problem was the
> > condenser (capacitor).
> >
> > I would suspect the condenser failing and shorting the coil input to
> > ground, an overheated coil, the points temporarily welding together (or
> > severely pitted to make bad contact) or possibly a defective
> > distributer cap/rotor.
> >
> > I would disconnect the condenser temporarily when it fails and see if
> > it starts. If that works, replace it immediately or you will certainly
> > weld your points together in a very short time.
> >
> > Merrill
> >
> > I believe your
> > DougW wrote:
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > I would be thinking points and condenser. Maybe even the hold down
> > > > foot on the distributor. I have seen that rusty on some old engines
> > > > so the points or distributor wasn't grounded.
> > >
> > > OOOO.. Points! Now there is something I bet quite a few folks
> > > these days know nothing about. :) (1)
> > >
> > > Lemme try to remember.. the little braided wire corrodes,
> > > the points wear and don't match flat, the spring sproings its
> > > last sproing, the condenser goes out and your radio picks up only
> > > the buzzzzzzzzz station just before the points arc out. And a
> > > feeler gauge is not for setting spark plug gaps.
> > >
> > > (1)Except the car nuts and us older than dirt folk.
> > >
> > > --
> > > DougW

 

Glad to know someone else owns a GPW. I have a 1943.

Replacing points and condensor would be a good start. These are just
tune up items for that engine. If you still have the problem then
replace the coil. The system is so simple, not like modern cars with
computers and a bunch of sensors!




GPW owner wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> My Dad has a 1942 GPW that we use on some hilly property, which has
> developed a problem that we can't seem to solve. Basically the engine
> will just quit running for no apparent reason. This used to happen
> rarely but is becoming much more common.
>
> After it dies, it won't start until we leave the jeep sit for 20-40
> minutes and it will then start and run great. It seems to happen
> mostly on a slight incline but we still go up many hills without a
> problem. Engine temperature doesn't seem to be a factor either, as it
> happens when the weather is hot or cold, and when it's been running for
> a long time or not. Also, once when trouble-shooting, it wasn't
> getting a spark at the plugs, but I haven't been there to check if
> this is always the case.
>
> Based on some suggestions I've replaced the fuel pump, and the
> distributor cap (which we noticed was falling apart inside), and the
> spark plugs and wires at the same time. Now it runs real smooth, but
> still will die.
>
> It's now suggested that it could be the coil, or dirt in the float
> bowl, but I'm hoping someone has solved this before and can point me
> at the cause. Because the Jeep is at a vacation property, it's hard
> to try one thing just to wait till the next trip to see if it's still a
> problem.
>
> TIA....

 

Glad to know someone else owns a GPW. I have a 1943.

Replacing points and condensor would be a good start. These are just
tune up items for that engine. If you still have the problem then
replace the coil. The system is so simple, not like modern cars with
computers and a bunch of sensors!




GPW owner wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> My Dad has a 1942 GPW that we use on some hilly property, which has
> developed a problem that we can't seem to solve. Basically the engine
> will just quit running for no apparent reason. This used to happen
> rarely but is becoming much more common.
>
> After it dies, it won't start until we leave the jeep sit for 20-40
> minutes and it will then start and run great. It seems to happen
> mostly on a slight incline but we still go up many hills without a
> problem. Engine temperature doesn't seem to be a factor either, as it
> happens when the weather is hot or cold, and when it's been running for
> a long time or not. Also, once when trouble-shooting, it wasn't
> getting a spark at the plugs, but I haven't been there to check if
> this is always the case.
>
> Based on some suggestions I've replaced the fuel pump, and the
> distributor cap (which we noticed was falling apart inside), and the
> spark plugs and wires at the same time. Now it runs real smooth, but
> still will die.
>
> It's now suggested that it could be the coil, or dirt in the float
> bowl, but I'm hoping someone has solved this before and can point me
> at the cause. Because the Jeep is at a vacation property, it's hard
> to try one thing just to wait till the next trip to see if it's still a
> problem.
>
> TIA....

 

Glad to know someone else owns a GPW. I have a 1943.

Replacing points and condensor would be a good start. These are just
tune up items for that engine. If you still have the problem then
replace the coil. The system is so simple, not like modern cars with
computers and a bunch of sensors!




GPW owner wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> My Dad has a 1942 GPW that we use on some hilly property, which has
> developed a problem that we can't seem to solve. Basically the engine
> will just quit running for no apparent reason. This used to happen
> rarely but is becoming much more common.
>
> After it dies, it won't start until we leave the jeep sit for 20-40
> minutes and it will then start and run great. It seems to happen
> mostly on a slight incline but we still go up many hills without a
> problem. Engine temperature doesn't seem to be a factor either, as it
> happens when the weather is hot or cold, and when it's been running for
> a long time or not. Also, once when trouble-shooting, it wasn't
> getting a spark at the plugs, but I haven't been there to check if
> this is always the case.
>
> Based on some suggestions I've replaced the fuel pump, and the
> distributor cap (which we noticed was falling apart inside), and the
> spark plugs and wires at the same time. Now it runs real smooth, but
> still will die.
>
> It's now suggested that it could be the coil, or dirt in the float
> bowl, but I'm hoping someone has solved this before and can point me
> at the cause. Because the Jeep is at a vacation property, it's hard
> to try one thing just to wait till the next trip to see if it's still a
> problem.
>
> TIA....

 

Glad to know someone else owns a GPW. I have a 1943.

Replacing points and condensor would be a good start. These are just
tune up items for that engine. If you still have the problem then
replace the coil. The system is so simple, not like modern cars with
computers and a bunch of sensors!




GPW owner wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> My Dad has a 1942 GPW that we use on some hilly property, which has
> developed a problem that we can't seem to solve. Basically the engine
> will just quit running for no apparent reason. This used to happen
> rarely but is becoming much more common.
>
> After it dies, it won't start until we leave the jeep sit for 20-40
> minutes and it will then start and run great. It seems to happen
> mostly on a slight incline but we still go up many hills without a
> problem. Engine temperature doesn't seem to be a factor either, as it
> happens when the weather is hot or cold, and when it's been running for
> a long time or not. Also, once when trouble-shooting, it wasn't
> getting a spark at the plugs, but I haven't been there to check if
> this is always the case.
>
> Based on some suggestions I've replaced the fuel pump, and the
> distributor cap (which we noticed was falling apart inside), and the
> spark plugs and wires at the same time. Now it runs real smooth, but
> still will die.
>
> It's now suggested that it could be the coil, or dirt in the float
> bowl, but I'm hoping someone has solved this before and can point me
> at the cause. Because the Jeep is at a vacation property, it's hard
> to try one thing just to wait till the next trip to see if it's still a
> problem.
>
> TIA....

 

I was thinking and remembering one car that up and died when hot. It
was hard to figure until I checked the points. The fiber bumper had
worn down so the gap was really small when cold. When hot, parts
expanded and closed the gap.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

merrill wrote:
> I agree!
>
> I had a 1974 Mustang that died suddenly and wouldn't start. Twenty
> minutes later it started and ran for 10 minutes. The problem was the
> condenser (capacitor).
>
> I would suspect the condenser failing and shorting the coil input to
> ground, an overheated coil, the points temporarily welding together (or
> severely pitted to make bad contact) or possibly a defective
> distributer cap/rotor.
>
> I would disconnect the condenser temporarily when it fails and see if
> it starts. If that works, replace it immediately or you will certainly
> weld your points together in a very short time.
>
> Merrill
>
> I believe your
> DougW wrote:
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>> I would be thinking points and condenser. Maybe even the hold down
>>> foot on the distributor. I have seen that rusty on some old engines
>>> so the points or distributor wasn't grounded.
>> OOOO.. Points! Now there is something I bet quite a few folks
>> these days know nothing about. :) (1)
>>
>> Lemme try to remember.. the little braided wire corrodes,
>> the points wear and don't match flat, the spring sproings its
>> last sproing, the condenser goes out and your radio picks up only
>> the buzzzzzzzzz station just before the points arc out. And a
>> feeler gauge is not for setting spark plug gaps.
>>
>> (1)Except the car nuts and us older than dirt folk.
>>
>> --
>> DougW
>