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Drive shaft questions
I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new project,
so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? Thanks -- _____________________ HomeBrewer 85CJ7 (in Progress) http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Go ahead and make one with constant velocity universal joints, old
rear wheel drive Cadillacs used them with almost no angle difference. Ford and GM used them in all the applications. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ HomeBrewer wrote: > > I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new project, > so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular u-joint. > Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? Can I use > my old one and get it lengthened? > > Thanks > -- > _____________________ > HomeBrewer > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Go ahead and make one with constant velocity universal joints, old
rear wheel drive Cadillacs used them with almost no angle difference. Ford and GM used them in all the applications. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ HomeBrewer wrote: > > I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new project, > so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular u-joint. > Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? Can I use > my old one and get it lengthened? > > Thanks > -- > _____________________ > HomeBrewer > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ |
Re: Drive shaft questions
I suggest you get a double-cardan shaft whether or not you "need" one.
I have a Tom Woods shaft in my CJ5. I measured the distance from the tcase to the yoke, and he took it from there. "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... >I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new >project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular >u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? >Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? > > Thanks > -- > _____________________ > HomeBrewer > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
I suggest you get a double-cardan shaft whether or not you "need" one.
I have a Tom Woods shaft in my CJ5. I measured the distance from the tcase to the yoke, and he took it from there. "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... >I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new >project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular >u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? >Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? > > Thanks > -- > _____________________ > HomeBrewer > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
>I suggest you get a double-cardan shaft whether or not you "need" one.
> > I have a Tom Woods shaft in my CJ5. I measured the distance from the tcase > to the yoke, and he took it from there. From what I've read, you have to change the output yoke on the transfer case to run a double cardan- If that is true I'm not doing it. I have a corp 14 bolt rear and a dana 300 transfer case. I have the rear pointing at the transfer case and the transfer case points ever so slightly downward. I don't know the angle yet, but it's not that great - I would estimate 10-15 degrees. -- _____________________ HomeBrewer 85CJ7 (in Progress) http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ 99XJ Sport Remove the xxx to reply! "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:10ot9e829j3o227@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... >>I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new >>project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular >>u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? >>Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? >> >> Thanks >> -- >> _____________________ >> HomeBrewer >> 85CJ7 (in Progress) >> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ >> >> >> > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
>I suggest you get a double-cardan shaft whether or not you "need" one.
> > I have a Tom Woods shaft in my CJ5. I measured the distance from the tcase > to the yoke, and he took it from there. From what I've read, you have to change the output yoke on the transfer case to run a double cardan- If that is true I'm not doing it. I have a corp 14 bolt rear and a dana 300 transfer case. I have the rear pointing at the transfer case and the transfer case points ever so slightly downward. I don't know the angle yet, but it's not that great - I would estimate 10-15 degrees. -- _____________________ HomeBrewer 85CJ7 (in Progress) http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ 99XJ Sport Remove the xxx to reply! "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:10ot9e829j3o227@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... >>I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new >>project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular >>u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? >>Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? >> >> Thanks >> -- >> _____________________ >> HomeBrewer >> 85CJ7 (in Progress) >> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ >> >> >> > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Not if you buy a Real Jeep type driveshaft:
http://www.4xshaft.com/rubicon/p%20RUBICON_YOKE.jpg and not the puny slip yoke conversion. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ HomeBrewer wrote: > > From what I've read, you have to change the output yoke on the transfer case > to run a double cardan- If that is true I'm not doing it. I have a corp 14 > bolt rear and a dana 300 transfer case. I have the rear pointing at the > transfer case and the transfer case points ever so slightly downward. I > don't know the angle yet, but it's not that great - I would estimate 10-15 > degrees. > > -- > _____________________ > HomeBrewer > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > 99XJ Sport > Remove the xxx to reply! > > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:10ot9e829j3o227@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > > news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... > >>I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new > >>project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular > >>u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? > >>Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? > >> > >> Thanks > >> -- > >> _____________________ > >> HomeBrewer > >> 85CJ7 (in Progress) > >> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > >> > >> > >> > > > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Not if you buy a Real Jeep type driveshaft:
http://www.4xshaft.com/rubicon/p%20RUBICON_YOKE.jpg and not the puny slip yoke conversion. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ HomeBrewer wrote: > > From what I've read, you have to change the output yoke on the transfer case > to run a double cardan- If that is true I'm not doing it. I have a corp 14 > bolt rear and a dana 300 transfer case. I have the rear pointing at the > transfer case and the transfer case points ever so slightly downward. I > don't know the angle yet, but it's not that great - I would estimate 10-15 > degrees. > > -- > _____________________ > HomeBrewer > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > 99XJ Sport > Remove the xxx to reply! > > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:10ot9e829j3o227@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > > news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... > >>I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new > >>project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular > >>u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? > >>Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? > >> > >> Thanks > >> -- > >> _____________________ > >> HomeBrewer > >> 85CJ7 (in Progress) > >> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > >> > >> > >> > > > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
I don't know what has to change to accept the double cardan. My CJ had the
double cardan on it when I bought it, so I have simply unboltde the old one and bolted up the new one. Frankly, I think the double cardan will fit a D300 without any modification. Contact Tom Woods for more details. I have a FSM for my CJ, and the double cardan is shown as standard for at least one of the models for my particular year. You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines. "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message news:2v7vkhF2itioiU1@uni-berlin.de... > >I suggest you get a double-cardan shaft whether or not you "need" one. > > > > I have a Tom Woods shaft in my CJ5. I measured the distance from the tcase > > to the yoke, and he took it from there. > > From what I've read, you have to change the output yoke on the transfer case > to run a double cardan- If that is true I'm not doing it. I have a corp 14 > bolt rear and a dana 300 transfer case. I have the rear pointing at the > transfer case and the transfer case points ever so slightly downward. I > don't know the angle yet, but it's not that great - I would estimate 10-15 > degrees. > > -- > _____________________ > HomeBrewer > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > 99XJ Sport > Remove the xxx to reply! > > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:10ot9e829j3o227@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > > news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... > >>I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new > >>project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular > >>u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? > >>Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? > >> > >> Thanks > >> -- > >> _____________________ > >> HomeBrewer > >> 85CJ7 (in Progress) > >> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
I don't know what has to change to accept the double cardan. My CJ had the
double cardan on it when I bought it, so I have simply unboltde the old one and bolted up the new one. Frankly, I think the double cardan will fit a D300 without any modification. Contact Tom Woods for more details. I have a FSM for my CJ, and the double cardan is shown as standard for at least one of the models for my particular year. You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines. "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message news:2v7vkhF2itioiU1@uni-berlin.de... > >I suggest you get a double-cardan shaft whether or not you "need" one. > > > > I have a Tom Woods shaft in my CJ5. I measured the distance from the tcase > > to the yoke, and he took it from there. > > From what I've read, you have to change the output yoke on the transfer case > to run a double cardan- If that is true I'm not doing it. I have a corp 14 > bolt rear and a dana 300 transfer case. I have the rear pointing at the > transfer case and the transfer case points ever so slightly downward. I > don't know the angle yet, but it's not that great - I would estimate 10-15 > degrees. > > -- > _____________________ > HomeBrewer > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > 99XJ Sport > Remove the xxx to reply! > > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:10ot9e829j3o227@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > > news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... > >>I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new > >>project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a regular > >>u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made shaft? > >>Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? > >> > >> Thanks > >> -- > >> _____________________ > >> HomeBrewer > >> 85CJ7 (in Progress) > >> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
For me I was told I would need a different yoke which I purchased and
installed. 60.00 from TW including shipping. The CV shaft cost me 300.00 plus tax locally, balanced. Also, Jeff, is this correct? "You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines." Rather, you want the pinion to point to the transfer case with as close to 0 degree angle as possible, correct? http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/ Bill "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message news:10ovg72c28a3db5@corp.supernews.com... > I don't know what has to change to accept the double cardan. My CJ had the > double cardan on it when I bought it, so I have simply unboltde the old one > and bolted up the new one. > > Frankly, I think the double cardan will fit a D300 without any modification. > Contact Tom Woods for more details. I have a FSM for my CJ, and the double > cardan is shown as standard for at least one of the models for my particular > year. > > You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines. > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > news:2v7vkhF2itioiU1@uni-berlin.de... > > >I suggest you get a double-cardan shaft whether or not you "need" one. > > > > > > I have a Tom Woods shaft in my CJ5. I measured the distance from the > tcase > > > to the yoke, and he took it from there. > > > > From what I've read, you have to change the output yoke on the transfer > case > > to run a double cardan- If that is true I'm not doing it. I have a corp 14 > > bolt rear and a dana 300 transfer case. I have the rear pointing at the > > transfer case and the transfer case points ever so slightly downward. I > > don't know the angle yet, but it's not that great - I would estimate 10-15 > > degrees. > > > > -- > > _____________________ > > HomeBrewer > > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > > 99XJ Sport > > Remove the xxx to reply! > > > > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:10ot9e829j3o227@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > > > news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... > > >>I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new > > >>project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a > regular > > >>u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made > shaft? > > >>Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? > > >> > > >> Thanks > > >> -- > > >> _____________________ > > >> HomeBrewer > > >> 85CJ7 (in Progress) > > >> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > > >> > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
For me I was told I would need a different yoke which I purchased and
installed. 60.00 from TW including shipping. The CV shaft cost me 300.00 plus tax locally, balanced. Also, Jeff, is this correct? "You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines." Rather, you want the pinion to point to the transfer case with as close to 0 degree angle as possible, correct? http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/ Bill "Jeff Strickland" <spamcatcher@yahoo.net> wrote in message news:10ovg72c28a3db5@corp.supernews.com... > I don't know what has to change to accept the double cardan. My CJ had the > double cardan on it when I bought it, so I have simply unboltde the old one > and bolted up the new one. > > Frankly, I think the double cardan will fit a D300 without any modification. > Contact Tom Woods for more details. I have a FSM for my CJ, and the double > cardan is shown as standard for at least one of the models for my particular > year. > > You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines. > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > news:2v7vkhF2itioiU1@uni-berlin.de... > > >I suggest you get a double-cardan shaft whether or not you "need" one. > > > > > > I have a Tom Woods shaft in my CJ5. I measured the distance from the > tcase > > > to the yoke, and he took it from there. > > > > From what I've read, you have to change the output yoke on the transfer > case > > to run a double cardan- If that is true I'm not doing it. I have a corp 14 > > bolt rear and a dana 300 transfer case. I have the rear pointing at the > > transfer case and the transfer case points ever so slightly downward. I > > don't know the angle yet, but it's not that great - I would estimate 10-15 > > degrees. > > > > -- > > _____________________ > > HomeBrewer > > 85CJ7 (in Progress) > > http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > > 99XJ Sport > > Remove the xxx to reply! > > > > "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:10ot9e829j3o227@corp.supernews.com... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@cox.net> wrote in message > > > news:2v7bfqF2h5585U1@uni-berlin.de... > > >>I need a new drive shaft because my old one is too short for my new > > >>project, so how do I know if I need the double CV joint or just a > regular > > >>u-joint. Also, what price should I expect to pay for a custom made > shaft? > > >>Can I use my old one and get it lengthened? > > >> > > >> Thanks > > >> -- > > >> _____________________ > > >> HomeBrewer > > >> 85CJ7 (in Progress) > > >> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ > > >> > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Hi Jeff,
Actually, with a double cardan shaft, you want the pinion pointing straight at the tcase output, not parallel with it. Steve http://xjeep.dyndns.org Jeff Strickland wrote: > > Frankly, I think the double cardan will fit a D300 without any modification. > Contact Tom Woods for more details. I have a FSM for my CJ, and the double > cardan is shown as standard for at least one of the models for my particular > year. > > You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines. |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Hi Jeff,
Actually, with a double cardan shaft, you want the pinion pointing straight at the tcase output, not parallel with it. Steve http://xjeep.dyndns.org Jeff Strickland wrote: > > Frankly, I think the double cardan will fit a D300 without any modification. > Contact Tom Woods for more details. I have a FSM for my CJ, and the double > cardan is shown as standard for at least one of the models for my particular > year. > > You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines. |
Re: Drive shaft questions
With a CV type(including double Cardan), pointing the pinion directly at the
T case is theoretically correct for the least amount of vibration, however the needles in the U joint would never move in this case and you would quickly get a Brinell failure. By pointing the pinion a couple of degrees off (above or below) there is some needle bearing movement and everything stays lubed and smooth. The price you pay for bearing life is a little vibration. -- Jeff L. "Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message news:2va6eaF2b2ssbU1@uni-berlin.de... > Hi Jeff, > > Actually, with a double cardan shaft, you want the pinion pointing > straight at the tcase output, not parallel with it. > > Steve > http://xjeep.dyndns.org > > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > Frankly, I think the double cardan will fit a D300 without any modification. > > Contact Tom Woods for more details. I have a FSM for my CJ, and the double > > cardan is shown as standard for at least one of the models for my particular > > year. > > > > You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines. |
Re: Drive shaft questions
With a CV type(including double Cardan), pointing the pinion directly at the
T case is theoretically correct for the least amount of vibration, however the needles in the U joint would never move in this case and you would quickly get a Brinell failure. By pointing the pinion a couple of degrees off (above or below) there is some needle bearing movement and everything stays lubed and smooth. The price you pay for bearing life is a little vibration. -- Jeff L. "Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in message news:2va6eaF2b2ssbU1@uni-berlin.de... > Hi Jeff, > > Actually, with a double cardan shaft, you want the pinion pointing > straight at the tcase output, not parallel with it. > > Steve > http://xjeep.dyndns.org > > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > > > > Frankly, I think the double cardan will fit a D300 without any modification. > > Contact Tom Woods for more details. I have a FSM for my CJ, and the double > > cardan is shown as standard for at least one of the models for my particular > > year. > > > > You want the tcase and the pinion angle to create parallel centerlines. |
Re: Drive shaft questions
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2va6c8F2idnorU1@uni-berlin.de... > For me I was told I would need a different yoke which I purchased and > installed. 60.00 from TW including shipping. > The CV shaft cost me 300.00 plus tax locally, balanced. > > Also, Jeff, is this correct? "You want the tcase and the pinion angle to > create parallel centerlines." Rather, you want the pinion to point to the > transfer case with as close to 0 degree angle as possible, correct? > > http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/ > I haven't looked at the link you gave, yet, but I will. I read that one wanted the centerlines to be parallel. |
Re: Drive shaft questions
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2va6c8F2idnorU1@uni-berlin.de... > For me I was told I would need a different yoke which I purchased and > installed. 60.00 from TW including shipping. > The CV shaft cost me 300.00 plus tax locally, balanced. > > Also, Jeff, is this correct? "You want the tcase and the pinion angle to > create parallel centerlines." Rather, you want the pinion to point to the > transfer case with as close to 0 degree angle as possible, correct? > > http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/ > I haven't looked at the link you gave, yet, but I will. I read that one wanted the centerlines to be parallel. |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Centerlines to be parallel, when not using a constant velocity
universal joint: http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Jeff Strickland wrote: > > I haven't looked at the link you gave, yet, but I will. > > I read that one wanted the centerlines to be parallel. |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Centerlines to be parallel, when not using a constant velocity
universal joint: http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Jeff Strickland wrote: > > I haven't looked at the link you gave, yet, but I will. > > I read that one wanted the centerlines to be parallel. |
Re: Drive shaft questions
I'm installing a t176 soon and will need new driveshafts. My rear pinion is
pointing slightly under the t-case output at the moment, but might change with the new tranny. Either way, I'm going to get a tom woods ds made. > With a CV type(including double Cardan), pointing the pinion directly at > the > T case is theoretically correct for the least amount of vibration, however > the needles in the U joint would never move in this case and you would > quickly get a Brinell failure. By pointing the pinion a couple of degrees > off (above or below) there is some needle bearing movement and everything > stays lubed and smooth. The price you pay for bearing life is a little > vibration. -- _____________________ HomeBrewer 76-81-85CJ7 http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ All in one Jeep |
Re: Drive shaft questions
I'm installing a t176 soon and will need new driveshafts. My rear pinion is
pointing slightly under the t-case output at the moment, but might change with the new tranny. Either way, I'm going to get a tom woods ds made. > With a CV type(including double Cardan), pointing the pinion directly at > the > T case is theoretically correct for the least amount of vibration, however > the needles in the U joint would never move in this case and you would > quickly get a Brinell failure. By pointing the pinion a couple of degrees > off (above or below) there is some needle bearing movement and everything > stays lubed and smooth. The price you pay for bearing life is a little > vibration. -- _____________________ HomeBrewer 76-81-85CJ7 http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ All in one Jeep |
Re: Drive shaft questions
I'm installing a t176 soon and will need new driveshafts. My rear pinion is
pointing slightly under the t-case output at the moment, but might change with the new tranny. Either way, I'm going to get a tom woods ds made. > With a CV type(including double Cardan), pointing the pinion directly at > the > T case is theoretically correct for the least amount of vibration, however > the needles in the U joint would never move in this case and you would > quickly get a Brinell failure. By pointing the pinion a couple of degrees > off (above or below) there is some needle bearing movement and everything > stays lubed and smooth. The price you pay for bearing life is a little > vibration. -- _____________________ HomeBrewer 76-81-85CJ7 http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ All in one Jeep |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Tom Woods recommended that I get the double cardan and point the pinion on
the rear end just below the transfer case ( I have a HEFTY traction bar that keeps the rear from wrapping under acceleration). I will have to change the output yoke on the dana 300. They sell the required yoke for $60. The booted driveshaft was $329 and Until Dec 31st they have a 10% off deal going. They custom made the drive shaft with 1310 u joints at the dana 300 end and 1350 u joints at the rear pinion so I would not need the "bastard" u joint anymore. Now I just need the 176 shifter fixed and the dana 300s seals replaced and I can put it all together. > With a CV type(including double Cardan), pointing the pinion directly at > the > T case is theoretically correct for the least amount of vibration, however > the needles in the U joint would never move in this case and you would > quickly get a Brinell failure. By pointing the pinion a couple of degrees > off (above or below) there is some needle bearing movement and everything > stays lubed and smooth. The price you pay for bearing life is a little > vibration. -- _____________________ HomeBrewer 76-81-85CJ7 http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ All in one Jeep |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Tom Woods recommended that I get the double cardan and point the pinion on
the rear end just below the transfer case ( I have a HEFTY traction bar that keeps the rear from wrapping under acceleration). I will have to change the output yoke on the dana 300. They sell the required yoke for $60. The booted driveshaft was $329 and Until Dec 31st they have a 10% off deal going. They custom made the drive shaft with 1310 u joints at the dana 300 end and 1350 u joints at the rear pinion so I would not need the "bastard" u joint anymore. Now I just need the 176 shifter fixed and the dana 300s seals replaced and I can put it all together. > With a CV type(including double Cardan), pointing the pinion directly at > the > T case is theoretically correct for the least amount of vibration, however > the needles in the U joint would never move in this case and you would > quickly get a Brinell failure. By pointing the pinion a couple of degrees > off (above or below) there is some needle bearing movement and everything > stays lubed and smooth. The price you pay for bearing life is a little > vibration. -- _____________________ HomeBrewer 76-81-85CJ7 http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ All in one Jeep |
Re: Drive shaft questions
Tom Woods recommended that I get the double cardan and point the pinion on
the rear end just below the transfer case ( I have a HEFTY traction bar that keeps the rear from wrapping under acceleration). I will have to change the output yoke on the dana 300. They sell the required yoke for $60. The booted driveshaft was $329 and Until Dec 31st they have a 10% off deal going. They custom made the drive shaft with 1310 u joints at the dana 300 end and 1350 u joints at the rear pinion so I would not need the "bastard" u joint anymore. Now I just need the 176 shifter fixed and the dana 300s seals replaced and I can put it all together. > With a CV type(including double Cardan), pointing the pinion directly at > the > T case is theoretically correct for the least amount of vibration, however > the needles in the U joint would never move in this case and you would > quickly get a Brinell failure. By pointing the pinion a couple of degrees > off (above or below) there is some needle bearing movement and everything > stays lubed and smooth. The price you pay for bearing life is a little > vibration. -- _____________________ HomeBrewer 76-81-85CJ7 http://85cj7.blogspot.com/ All in one Jeep |
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