The main advantage of full time 4wd seems to be, that it will let you drive
on slippery surfaces, at speeds at which you don't have a prayer of
stopping, in a reasonable time or distance, when you have to. Part time 4wd
is "really need it" 4wd. Full time 4wd is "drive as if it isn't snowing,
rainy or icy" 4wd.

It sounds like a $1,500 vehicle. Tires, u-joints, maybe a brake job, engine
rebuild some time in the future. Depending on your needs, how many miles
you drive a week, you could have this vehicle for a long time, with minimal
repairs.

Earle

"Matthew Warren" <msuuarren@bluefrog.com> wrote in message
news:dm804e0170a@enews2.newsguy.com...
> Looking at a 1995 GC (ZJ?), 307k miles, auto tranny, full time case. Was
> wondering what I should be wary of / look for. I know that it's a heap of
> miles, but... in the end, is this vehicle needing tires and front axle U
> jonts, worth $1,500?
>
> Also, never used full time 4wd, what are the differences in performance
> verse Part time systems? I know that the major advantage is that it can
be
> run anywhere... but beyond that I don't know much. Is it as effective in
> snow as part time? anyway, thanks to all in advance.
>
>

 

The main advantage of full time 4wd seems to be, that it will let you drive
on slippery surfaces, at speeds at which you don't have a prayer of
stopping, in a reasonable time or distance, when you have to. Part time 4wd
is "really need it" 4wd. Full time 4wd is "drive as if it isn't snowing,
rainy or icy" 4wd.

It sounds like a $1,500 vehicle. Tires, u-joints, maybe a brake job, engine
rebuild some time in the future. Depending on your needs, how many miles
you drive a week, you could have this vehicle for a long time, with minimal
repairs.

Earle

"Matthew Warren" <msuuarren@bluefrog.com> wrote in message
news:dm804e0170a@enews2.newsguy.com...
> Looking at a 1995 GC (ZJ?), 307k miles, auto tranny, full time case. Was
> wondering what I should be wary of / look for. I know that it's a heap of
> miles, but... in the end, is this vehicle needing tires and front axle U
> jonts, worth $1,500?
>
> Also, never used full time 4wd, what are the differences in performance
> verse Part time systems? I know that the major advantage is that it can
be
> run anywhere... but beyond that I don't know much. Is it as effective in
> snow as part time? anyway, thanks to all in advance.
>
>

 

The main advantage of full time 4wd seems to be, that it will let you drive
on slippery surfaces, at speeds at which you don't have a prayer of
stopping, in a reasonable time or distance, when you have to. Part time 4wd
is "really need it" 4wd. Full time 4wd is "drive as if it isn't snowing,
rainy or icy" 4wd.

It sounds like a $1,500 vehicle. Tires, u-joints, maybe a brake job, engine
rebuild some time in the future. Depending on your needs, how many miles
you drive a week, you could have this vehicle for a long time, with minimal
repairs.

Earle

"Matthew Warren" <msuuarren@bluefrog.com> wrote in message
news:dm804e0170a@enews2.newsguy.com...
> Looking at a 1995 GC (ZJ?), 307k miles, auto tranny, full time case. Was
> wondering what I should be wary of / look for. I know that it's a heap of
> miles, but... in the end, is this vehicle needing tires and front axle U
> jonts, worth $1,500?
>
> Also, never used full time 4wd, what are the differences in performance
> verse Part time systems? I know that the major advantage is that it can
be
> run anywhere... but beyond that I don't know much. Is it as effective in
> snow as part time? anyway, thanks to all in advance.
>
>

 

Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> The main advantage of full time 4wd seems to be, that it will let you drive
> on slippery surfaces, at speeds at which you don't have a prayer of
> stopping, in a reasonable time or distance, when you have to. Part time 4wd
> is "really need it" 4wd. Full time 4wd is "drive as if it isn't snowing,
> rainy or icy" 4wd.
>
> It sounds like a $1,500 vehicle. Tires, u-joints, maybe a brake job, engine
> rebuild some time in the future. Depending on your needs, how many miles
> you drive a week, you could have this vehicle for a long time, with minimal
> repairs.

I'm wondering what engine. Repair costs are higher for the V8 vs the I6.
The I6 also has a habbit of cracked exhaust headers and those aren't
cheap. Aftermarket is there though.

> "Matthew Warren" wrote ...
>> Looking at a 1995 GC (ZJ?), 307k miles, auto tranny, full time case. Was
>> wondering what I should be wary of / look for. I know that it's a heap of
>> miles, but... in the end, is this vehicle needing tires and front axle U
>> jonts, worth $1,500?

I'd have a qualified mechanic look it over before buying.

It also depends on how much work you plan to do yourself. Brakes, exhaust,
engine mounts, belts, hoses, etc.

>> Also, never used full time 4wd, what are the differences in performance
>> verse Part time systems? I know that the major advantage is that it can be
>> run anywhere... but beyond that I don't know much. Is it as effective in
>> snow as part time? anyway, thanks to all in advance.


As others have said, fulltime is good for highway/dirt/gravel but not
optimal for off-roading. If your not planning on taking it into serious
situations then fulltime is fine. If your getting it to build-up then
it may not matter since you could drop in another case.

Quadratrack (full time 4wd) is great on snow, ice, slime... Helps a bit
to use the poor mans locker (drag the brakes) if you get stuck.

It also depends on if the rear axle is a locker or not. There will be
a round metal tag on one of the bolts holding the differential cover
if it is.

One thing for certain. Before you drive in the snow/ice take the vehicle
out to an empty mall parking lot and learn how it behaves. My ZJ is almost
dead neutral on ice/snow unless I floor the gas or hit the emergency brake. :)


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> The main advantage of full time 4wd seems to be, that it will let you drive
> on slippery surfaces, at speeds at which you don't have a prayer of
> stopping, in a reasonable time or distance, when you have to. Part time 4wd
> is "really need it" 4wd. Full time 4wd is "drive as if it isn't snowing,
> rainy or icy" 4wd.
>
> It sounds like a $1,500 vehicle. Tires, u-joints, maybe a brake job, engine
> rebuild some time in the future. Depending on your needs, how many miles
> you drive a week, you could have this vehicle for a long time, with minimal
> repairs.

I'm wondering what engine. Repair costs are higher for the V8 vs the I6.
The I6 also has a habbit of cracked exhaust headers and those aren't
cheap. Aftermarket is there though.

> "Matthew Warren" wrote ...
>> Looking at a 1995 GC (ZJ?), 307k miles, auto tranny, full time case. Was
>> wondering what I should be wary of / look for. I know that it's a heap of
>> miles, but... in the end, is this vehicle needing tires and front axle U
>> jonts, worth $1,500?

I'd have a qualified mechanic look it over before buying.

It also depends on how much work you plan to do yourself. Brakes, exhaust,
engine mounts, belts, hoses, etc.

>> Also, never used full time 4wd, what are the differences in performance
>> verse Part time systems? I know that the major advantage is that it can be
>> run anywhere... but beyond that I don't know much. Is it as effective in
>> snow as part time? anyway, thanks to all in advance.


As others have said, fulltime is good for highway/dirt/gravel but not
optimal for off-roading. If your not planning on taking it into serious
situations then fulltime is fine. If your getting it to build-up then
it may not matter since you could drop in another case.

Quadratrack (full time 4wd) is great on snow, ice, slime... Helps a bit
to use the poor mans locker (drag the brakes) if you get stuck.

It also depends on if the rear axle is a locker or not. There will be
a round metal tag on one of the bolts holding the differential cover
if it is.

One thing for certain. Before you drive in the snow/ice take the vehicle
out to an empty mall parking lot and learn how it behaves. My ZJ is almost
dead neutral on ice/snow unless I floor the gas or hit the emergency brake. :)


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:
> The main advantage of full time 4wd seems to be, that it will let you drive
> on slippery surfaces, at speeds at which you don't have a prayer of
> stopping, in a reasonable time or distance, when you have to. Part time 4wd
> is "really need it" 4wd. Full time 4wd is "drive as if it isn't snowing,
> rainy or icy" 4wd.
>
> It sounds like a $1,500 vehicle. Tires, u-joints, maybe a brake job, engine
> rebuild some time in the future. Depending on your needs, how many miles
> you drive a week, you could have this vehicle for a long time, with minimal
> repairs.

I'm wondering what engine. Repair costs are higher for the V8 vs the I6.
The I6 also has a habbit of cracked exhaust headers and those aren't
cheap. Aftermarket is there though.

> "Matthew Warren" wrote ...
>> Looking at a 1995 GC (ZJ?), 307k miles, auto tranny, full time case. Was
>> wondering what I should be wary of / look for. I know that it's a heap of
>> miles, but... in the end, is this vehicle needing tires and front axle U
>> jonts, worth $1,500?

I'd have a qualified mechanic look it over before buying.

It also depends on how much work you plan to do yourself. Brakes, exhaust,
engine mounts, belts, hoses, etc.

>> Also, never used full time 4wd, what are the differences in performance
>> verse Part time systems? I know that the major advantage is that it can be
>> run anywhere... but beyond that I don't know much. Is it as effective in
>> snow as part time? anyway, thanks to all in advance.


As others have said, fulltime is good for highway/dirt/gravel but not
optimal for off-roading. If your not planning on taking it into serious
situations then fulltime is fine. If your getting it to build-up then
it may not matter since you could drop in another case.

Quadratrack (full time 4wd) is great on snow, ice, slime... Helps a bit
to use the poor mans locker (drag the brakes) if you get stuck.

It also depends on if the rear axle is a locker or not. There will be
a round metal tag on one of the bolts holding the differential cover
if it is.

One thing for certain. Before you drive in the snow/ice take the vehicle
out to an empty mall parking lot and learn how it behaves. My ZJ is almost
dead neutral on ice/snow unless I floor the gas or hit the emergency brake. :)


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> If there is low rust, then yes, it is likely worth it. I always figure
> in an engine rebuild on something with that many miles on it. Somewhere
> in the $2500.00 installed neighborhood unless you install it yourself,
> then just $12-1500.00 for a shop done one and a hundred or so for the
> rent on an engine hoist. The hoist comes in pieces you put together and
> fit in a trunk. So for $4000.00 one would have a new engine with a nice
> body to go with it....

But electrical gremlins and bad grounds can drive you crazy with an old
car. I'm coming to believe this is often the limiting factor in keeping
a car for the long haul.

 

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> If there is low rust, then yes, it is likely worth it. I always figure
> in an engine rebuild on something with that many miles on it. Somewhere
> in the $2500.00 installed neighborhood unless you install it yourself,
> then just $12-1500.00 for a shop done one and a hundred or so for the
> rent on an engine hoist. The hoist comes in pieces you put together and
> fit in a trunk. So for $4000.00 one would have a new engine with a nice
> body to go with it....

But electrical gremlins and bad grounds can drive you crazy with an old
car. I'm coming to believe this is often the limiting factor in keeping
a car for the long haul.

 

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> If there is low rust, then yes, it is likely worth it. I always figure
> in an engine rebuild on something with that many miles on it. Somewhere
> in the $2500.00 installed neighborhood unless you install it yourself,
> then just $12-1500.00 for a shop done one and a hundred or so for the
> rent on an engine hoist. The hoist comes in pieces you put together and
> fit in a trunk. So for $4000.00 one would have a new engine with a nice
> body to go with it....

But electrical gremlins and bad grounds can drive you crazy with an old
car. I'm coming to believe this is often the limiting factor in keeping
a car for the long haul.

 

> Looking at a 1995 GC (ZJ?), 307k miles

307,000 miles? Put on it how? Highway?

I'd steer clear of it without a healthy budget for replacing all sorts of
things. It's only 10 years old so a lot of the usual things like hoses and
various rubber bits aren't completely crapped out yet, that's a good thing.
But that many miles on anything, new or old, is going to have put a lot of
wear on some pretty expensive components. Suspension, differentials, wheel
bearings, steering box, etc. A lot of that stuff just gets "sloppy" due to
wear. You're in for a heap of expenses trying to bring them back to life.
Also, if it was highway miles don't forget things like a worn out driver
seat, carpet and power window failures.

So unless the thing's visually spotless AND you've budgeted some pretty
hefty 'surprises' then you'd do well to pass on it.