CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

1982 CJ8 6-cyl.

Did the Weber conversion.

Problems with timing/advance.

If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
that correct?

If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
immediately.

If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.

If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
doesn't have much power at take-off.

Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.

And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.

What am I missing; what should I be doing now?

Thanks .....

Mike

-----
Michael Pomeroy
pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Which carb did you have?

Was it the electric one or no computer?

If the computer is still in the system, it can act strange, so can a big
vacuum leak somewhere or EGR messing up...

And No, you can't plug off all the vacuum lines....

The Charcoal canister still needs to be working as does the EGR valve
and if you live anywhere near freezing, the air filter hot air flaps.
The EGR actually uses a thermostat in the air filter along with the CTO.

Check this site for info on the computer and on the vacuum lines needed
for a 'basic' good runner.

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm

Check his index at the bottom too!

I run my 86, well, 78 engine at 9 deg with the ported vacuum, (vacuum
when the throttle gets punched), no computer, running 91 octane 'gas'
and it just rocks!

I have 3:31 gears and pulling out onto a 40 mph road, if I give it too
fast it will light up my 33x9.5 BFG muds and squawk off and will wrap
the spedo in 4th, forget 5th...

I tried the stock manifold vacuum and found a dead spot. I tried no EGR
and found a dead spot.

No backfires, that is something else.

Loose plug wire?

Major leak at the intake or exhaust manifold?

The carb came loose? (They like to do that at the base plate once they
get warmed up the first couple times, <grin>, seen that a lot over the
years)

One port on the carb still open?

A line to the CTO that opens to nothing?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Michael Pomeroy wrote:
>
> 1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
>
> Did the Weber conversion.
>
> Problems with timing/advance.
>
> If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
> involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
> go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
> that correct?
>
> If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
> sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
> acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
> acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
> doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
> immediately.
>
> If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
> the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
> it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
> maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
> retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
>
> If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
> have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
> doesn't have much power at take-off.
>
> Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
>
> And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
>
> What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
>
> Thanks .....
>
> Mike
>
> -----
> Michael Pomeroy
> pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Which carb did you have?

Was it the electric one or no computer?

If the computer is still in the system, it can act strange, so can a big
vacuum leak somewhere or EGR messing up...

And No, you can't plug off all the vacuum lines....

The Charcoal canister still needs to be working as does the EGR valve
and if you live anywhere near freezing, the air filter hot air flaps.
The EGR actually uses a thermostat in the air filter along with the CTO.

Check this site for info on the computer and on the vacuum lines needed
for a 'basic' good runner.

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm

Check his index at the bottom too!

I run my 86, well, 78 engine at 9 deg with the ported vacuum, (vacuum
when the throttle gets punched), no computer, running 91 octane 'gas'
and it just rocks!

I have 3:31 gears and pulling out onto a 40 mph road, if I give it too
fast it will light up my 33x9.5 BFG muds and squawk off and will wrap
the spedo in 4th, forget 5th...

I tried the stock manifold vacuum and found a dead spot. I tried no EGR
and found a dead spot.

No backfires, that is something else.

Loose plug wire?

Major leak at the intake or exhaust manifold?

The carb came loose? (They like to do that at the base plate once they
get warmed up the first couple times, <grin>, seen that a lot over the
years)

One port on the carb still open?

A line to the CTO that opens to nothing?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Michael Pomeroy wrote:
>
> 1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
>
> Did the Weber conversion.
>
> Problems with timing/advance.
>
> If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
> involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
> go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
> that correct?
>
> If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
> sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
> acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
> acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
> doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
> immediately.
>
> If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
> the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
> it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
> maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
> retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
>
> If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
> have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
> doesn't have much power at take-off.
>
> Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
>
> And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
>
> What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
>
> Thanks .....
>
> Mike
>
> -----
> Michael Pomeroy
> pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

And I left out one very important detail -- it BACKFIRES THROUGH THE
CARBURATOR!

Not the exhaust.

Help please ......

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:16:16 GMT, Michael Pomeroy <pomerom@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
>
>Did the Weber conversion.
>
>Problems with timing/advance.
>
>If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
>involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
>go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
>that correct?
>
>If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
>sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
>acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
>acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
>doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
>immediately.
>
>If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
>the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
>it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
>maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
>retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
>
>If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
>have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
>doesn't have much power at take-off.
>
>Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
>
>And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
>
>What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
>
>Thanks .....
>
>Mike
>
>-----
>Michael Pomeroy
>pomerom@yahoo.com


-----
Michael Pomeroy
pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

And I left out one very important detail -- it BACKFIRES THROUGH THE
CARBURATOR!

Not the exhaust.

Help please ......

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:16:16 GMT, Michael Pomeroy <pomerom@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
>
>Did the Weber conversion.
>
>Problems with timing/advance.
>
>If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
>involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
>go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
>that correct?
>
>If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
>sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
>acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
>acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
>doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
>immediately.
>
>If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
>the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
>it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
>maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
>retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
>
>If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
>have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
>doesn't have much power at take-off.
>
>Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
>
>And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
>
>What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
>
>Thanks .....
>
>Mike
>
>-----
>Michael Pomeroy
>pomerom@yahoo.com


-----
Michael Pomeroy
pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Too lean, jet it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Michael Pomeroy wrote:
>
> And I left out one very important detail -- it BACKFIRES THROUGH THE
> CARBURATOR!
>
> Not the exhaust.
>
> Help please ......

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Too lean, jet it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Michael Pomeroy wrote:
>
> And I left out one very important detail -- it BACKFIRES THROUGH THE
> CARBURATOR!
>
> Not the exhaust.
>
> Help please ......

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

"Michael Pomeroy" <pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:q5m9mv8bhd66mhvq15b4c0tcvc0il9nsne@4ax.com...
> 1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
>
> Did the Weber conversion.
>
> Problems with timing/advance.
>
> If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
> involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
> go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
> that correct?
>
> If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
> sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
> acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
> acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
> doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
> immediately.

Are you disconnecting the vacuum advance when you time it?
__
Steve
..

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

"Michael Pomeroy" <pomerom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:q5m9mv8bhd66mhvq15b4c0tcvc0il9nsne@4ax.com...
> 1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
>
> Did the Weber conversion.
>
> Problems with timing/advance.
>
> If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
> involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
> go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
> that correct?
>
> If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
> sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
> acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
> acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
> doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
> immediately.

Are you disconnecting the vacuum advance when you time it?
__
Steve
..

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

For starters, check to make sure the carb isn't leaking at the base.
You can spray some carb cleaner around the base while it is running to
see if the idle changes. While there, give the intake manifold a spray
along where it bolts to the head. If the idle changes even slightly,
you have found a leak.

Vacuum....

Ok, you have two types of vacuum. One is 'ported', the other is
'manifold'.

A 'ported' vacuum only sucks when the throttle is open. Manifold vacuum
sucks the most when the throttle is closed.

I do not know which nipple on your carb is which.... You think the carb
only has one nipple plus the manifold vacuum for the PCV valve? That
could be, but I suspect there is another you are missing hidden under
there somewhere, if so, that can be the backfiring.

How were you firing up the CTO 'timing' advance in your first post
below? It sure sounded like you had a manifold vacuum on it if the
timing was full advanced at idle, then dipped right away under throttle
and slowly advanced after that.

To fire up the EGR and charcoal canister, you need a ported vacuum.
This can be 'T' fitted with the timing advance line if you are using the
ported timing.

One side of the CTO valve will be a switch that only allows air flow
when the engine is hot and shuts off the flow when the engine is cold.

The other side or other nipple on the CTO can, if you have the multi CTO
with 3 or more nipples, only allow air flow when the engine is cold.

You can find this by blowing through a hose attached to one of the
nipples. Once you locate the two nipples that only flow hot, you run a
ported vacuum to one of them. From the other side of it, you run a line
and T it to the EGR and charcoal canister purge valve so they only turn
on when the engine is hot and you are at speed via the ported vacuum.

Any unused nipples on the CTO should be blocked. An inch of hose with a
bolt in it works as a plug for them.

This 'could' give you a little bit of hesitation on a medium warmed up
engine because you are missing the air filter thermostat, but once fully
warmed up it will go away.

Oh and just in case... when you set the timing, the vacuum line needs
to be off the distributor and the line plugged with a bolt or pencil or
something.

Hope this gets you somewhere...

Mike

Michael Pomeroy wrote:
>
> On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 18:12:28 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Which carb did you have?
> >
> It was the Carter.
> >Was it the electric one or no computer?
> >
> Yes -- well, had an electric choke. No computer.
>
> >If the computer is still in the system, it can act strange, so can a big
> >vacuum leak somewhere or EGR messing up...
> >
> >And No, you can't plug off all the vacuum lines....
> >
> The Weber from the conversion kit does NOT have all the vacuum ports
> the Carter had. The kit instructions simply say to "Locate the vacuum
> advance hose and connect it to the vacuum advance port on the
> carburetor." No further vacuum related instructions or suggestions.
>
> >The Charcoal canister still needs to be working as does the EGR valve
> >and if you live anywhere near freezing, the air filter hot air flaps.
> >The EGR actually uses a thermostat in the air filter along with the CTO.
> >
> Well, this is good news and bad news. I live in the deep south of the
> USA so (low)temperature extremes are seldom an issue for me.
>
> The air cleaner that comes with the Weber does not have the "hot air
> flap" and does NOT have the connectivity for the lines you describe
> above. So I plugged them for now -- there must be some way for this
> to work without them in the air cleaner housing?
>
> The only line the replacement air filter housing has is for the vent
> from the rear of the valve cover (just like the original air cleaner
> housing).
>
> So the carburetor has one line for "vacuum" and one line to relieve
> pressure from the valve cover. That is it!
>
> >Check this site for info on the computer and on the vacuum lines needed
> >for a 'basic' good runner.
> >
> >http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
> >
> >Check his index at the bottom too!
> >
> Will do.
>
> >I run my 86, well, 78 engine at 9 deg with the ported vacuum, (vacuum
> >when the throttle gets punched), no computer, running 91 octane 'gas'
> >and it just rocks!
> >
> >I have 3:31 gears and pulling out onto a 40 mph road, if I give it too
> >fast it will light up my 33x9.5 BFG muds and squawk off and will wrap
> >the spedo in 4th, forget 5th...
> >
> >I tried the stock manifold vacuum and found a dead spot. I tried no EGR
> >and found a dead spot.
> >
> So, where did you find to get the ported vacuum that works?
>
> >No backfires, that is something else.
> >
> >Loose plug wire?
> >
> >Major leak at the intake or exhaust manifold?
> >
> >The carb came loose? (They like to do that at the base plate once they
> >get warmed up the first couple times, <grin>, seen that a lot over the
> >years)
> >
> >One port on the carb still open?
> >
> >A line to the CTO that opens to nothing?
> >
> I don't think any of these apply, or don't yet fully understand, but
> will keep looking.
>
> I guess I'm just ignorant about how this all should go together.
>
> Mike
>
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Michael Pomeroy wrote:
> >>
> >> 1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
> >>
> >> Did the Weber conversion.
> >>
> >> Problems with timing/advance.
> >>
> >> If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
> >> involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
> >> go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
> >> that correct?
> >>
> >> If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
> >> sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
> >> acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
> >> acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
> >> doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
> >> immediately.
> >>
> >> If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
> >> the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
> >> it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
> >> maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
> >> retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
> >>
> >> If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
> >> have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
> >> doesn't have much power at take-off.
> >>
> >> Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
> >>
> >> And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
> >>
> >> What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
> >>
> >> Thanks .....
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> -----
> >> Michael Pomeroy
> >> pomerom@yahoo.com
>
> -----
> Michael Pomeroy
> pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

For starters, check to make sure the carb isn't leaking at the base.
You can spray some carb cleaner around the base while it is running to
see if the idle changes. While there, give the intake manifold a spray
along where it bolts to the head. If the idle changes even slightly,
you have found a leak.

Vacuum....

Ok, you have two types of vacuum. One is 'ported', the other is
'manifold'.

A 'ported' vacuum only sucks when the throttle is open. Manifold vacuum
sucks the most when the throttle is closed.

I do not know which nipple on your carb is which.... You think the carb
only has one nipple plus the manifold vacuum for the PCV valve? That
could be, but I suspect there is another you are missing hidden under
there somewhere, if so, that can be the backfiring.

How were you firing up the CTO 'timing' advance in your first post
below? It sure sounded like you had a manifold vacuum on it if the
timing was full advanced at idle, then dipped right away under throttle
and slowly advanced after that.

To fire up the EGR and charcoal canister, you need a ported vacuum.
This can be 'T' fitted with the timing advance line if you are using the
ported timing.

One side of the CTO valve will be a switch that only allows air flow
when the engine is hot and shuts off the flow when the engine is cold.

The other side or other nipple on the CTO can, if you have the multi CTO
with 3 or more nipples, only allow air flow when the engine is cold.

You can find this by blowing through a hose attached to one of the
nipples. Once you locate the two nipples that only flow hot, you run a
ported vacuum to one of them. From the other side of it, you run a line
and T it to the EGR and charcoal canister purge valve so they only turn
on when the engine is hot and you are at speed via the ported vacuum.

Any unused nipples on the CTO should be blocked. An inch of hose with a
bolt in it works as a plug for them.

This 'could' give you a little bit of hesitation on a medium warmed up
engine because you are missing the air filter thermostat, but once fully
warmed up it will go away.

Oh and just in case... when you set the timing, the vacuum line needs
to be off the distributor and the line plugged with a bolt or pencil or
something.

Hope this gets you somewhere...

Mike

Michael Pomeroy wrote:
>
> On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 18:12:28 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Which carb did you have?
> >
> It was the Carter.
> >Was it the electric one or no computer?
> >
> Yes -- well, had an electric choke. No computer.
>
> >If the computer is still in the system, it can act strange, so can a big
> >vacuum leak somewhere or EGR messing up...
> >
> >And No, you can't plug off all the vacuum lines....
> >
> The Weber from the conversion kit does NOT have all the vacuum ports
> the Carter had. The kit instructions simply say to "Locate the vacuum
> advance hose and connect it to the vacuum advance port on the
> carburetor." No further vacuum related instructions or suggestions.
>
> >The Charcoal canister still needs to be working as does the EGR valve
> >and if you live anywhere near freezing, the air filter hot air flaps.
> >The EGR actually uses a thermostat in the air filter along with the CTO.
> >
> Well, this is good news and bad news. I live in the deep south of the
> USA so (low)temperature extremes are seldom an issue for me.
>
> The air cleaner that comes with the Weber does not have the "hot air
> flap" and does NOT have the connectivity for the lines you describe
> above. So I plugged them for now -- there must be some way for this
> to work without them in the air cleaner housing?
>
> The only line the replacement air filter housing has is for the vent
> from the rear of the valve cover (just like the original air cleaner
> housing).
>
> So the carburetor has one line for "vacuum" and one line to relieve
> pressure from the valve cover. That is it!
>
> >Check this site for info on the computer and on the vacuum lines needed
> >for a 'basic' good runner.
> >
> >http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
> >
> >Check his index at the bottom too!
> >
> Will do.
>
> >I run my 86, well, 78 engine at 9 deg with the ported vacuum, (vacuum
> >when the throttle gets punched), no computer, running 91 octane 'gas'
> >and it just rocks!
> >
> >I have 3:31 gears and pulling out onto a 40 mph road, if I give it too
> >fast it will light up my 33x9.5 BFG muds and squawk off and will wrap
> >the spedo in 4th, forget 5th...
> >
> >I tried the stock manifold vacuum and found a dead spot. I tried no EGR
> >and found a dead spot.
> >
> So, where did you find to get the ported vacuum that works?
>
> >No backfires, that is something else.
> >
> >Loose plug wire?
> >
> >Major leak at the intake or exhaust manifold?
> >
> >The carb came loose? (They like to do that at the base plate once they
> >get warmed up the first couple times, <grin>, seen that a lot over the
> >years)
> >
> >One port on the carb still open?
> >
> >A line to the CTO that opens to nothing?
> >
> I don't think any of these apply, or don't yet fully understand, but
> will keep looking.
>
> I guess I'm just ignorant about how this all should go together.
>
> Mike
>
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Michael Pomeroy wrote:
> >>
> >> 1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
> >>
> >> Did the Weber conversion.
> >>
> >> Problems with timing/advance.
> >>
> >> If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
> >> involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
> >> go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
> >> that correct?
> >>
> >> If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
> >> sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
> >> acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
> >> acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
> >> doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
> >> immediately.
> >>
> >> If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
> >> the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
> >> it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
> >> maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
> >> retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
> >>
> >> If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
> >> have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
> >> doesn't have much power at take-off.
> >>
> >> Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
> >>
> >> And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
> >>
> >> What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
> >>
> >> Thanks .....
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> -----
> >> Michael Pomeroy
> >> pomerom@yahoo.com
>
> -----
> Michael Pomeroy
> pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 10:12:53 -0400 in rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys, Mike
Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> was alleged to have written:
>Oh and just in case... when you set the timing, the vacuum line needs
>to be off the distributor and the line plugged with a bolt or pencil or
>something.

Golf tee.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 10:12:53 -0400 in rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys, Mike
Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> was alleged to have written:
>Oh and just in case... when you set the timing, the vacuum line needs
>to be off the distributor and the line plugged with a bolt or pencil or
>something.

Golf tee.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 23:33:49 GMT in rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys, Michael
Pomeroy <pomerom@yahoo.com> was alleged to have written:
>And I left out one very important detail -- it BACKFIRES THROUGH THE
>CARBURATOR!

Re-check that all your spark plug wires are connected right.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 23:33:49 GMT in rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys, Michael
Pomeroy <pomerom@yahoo.com> was alleged to have written:
>And I left out one very important detail -- it BACKFIRES THROUGH THE
>CARBURATOR!

Re-check that all your spark plug wires are connected right.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Just a note to let those who have offered suggestions know that I have
read and considered them all.

I think the problem is probably directly related to a greater lack of
knowledge and understanding than I thought.

So today I bought enough vacuum tubing to replace all the old stuff
(it is an '82, so this can't but help), but the earliest I can get
back to working on the Jeep is this coming weekend.

In the meantime I will be studying and thinking and working through
all the suggestions in my mind. Then I plan to thorougly document
where each hose currently runs (in case all else fails I can put them
back like they are now) and then try to make it right.

When I do I'll let everybody know how it goes -- or have more
questions to ask.

Thanks .....

Mike

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:16:16 GMT, Michael Pomeroy <pomerom@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
>
>Did the Weber conversion.
>
>Problems with timing/advance.
>
>If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
>involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
>go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
>that correct?
>
>If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
>sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
>acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
>acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
>doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
>immediately.
>
>If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
>the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
>it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
>maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
>retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
>
>If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
>have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
>doesn't have much power at take-off.
>
>Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
>
>And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
>
>What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
>
>Thanks .....
>
>Mike
>
>-----
>Michael Pomeroy
>pomerom@yahoo.com


-----
Michael Pomeroy
pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Just a note to let those who have offered suggestions know that I have
read and considered them all.

I think the problem is probably directly related to a greater lack of
knowledge and understanding than I thought.

So today I bought enough vacuum tubing to replace all the old stuff
(it is an '82, so this can't but help), but the earliest I can get
back to working on the Jeep is this coming weekend.

In the meantime I will be studying and thinking and working through
all the suggestions in my mind. Then I plan to thorougly document
where each hose currently runs (in case all else fails I can put them
back like they are now) and then try to make it right.

When I do I'll let everybody know how it goes -- or have more
questions to ask.

Thanks .....

Mike

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:16:16 GMT, Michael Pomeroy <pomerom@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
>
>Did the Weber conversion.
>
>Problems with timing/advance.
>
>If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
>involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
>go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
>that correct?
>
>If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
>sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
>acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
>acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
>doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
>immediately.
>
>If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
>the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
>it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
>maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
>retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
>
>If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
>have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
>doesn't have much power at take-off.
>
>Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
>
>And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
>
>What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
>
>Thanks .....
>
>Mike
>
>-----
>Michael Pomeroy
>pomerom@yahoo.com


-----
Michael Pomeroy
pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

If I can be of assistance, feel free to ask.

I see more of those 80's engines with vacuum lines running incorrectly
than I see set up properly.

Lots of 'mechanics' out there even get lost in that maze, so don't feel
too bad....
;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Michael Pomeroy wrote:
>
> Just a note to let those who have offered suggestions know that I have
> read and considered them all.
>
> I think the problem is probably directly related to a greater lack of
> knowledge and understanding than I thought.
>
> So today I bought enough vacuum tubing to replace all the old stuff
> (it is an '82, so this can't but help), but the earliest I can get
> back to working on the Jeep is this coming weekend.
>
> In the meantime I will be studying and thinking and working through
> all the suggestions in my mind. Then I plan to thorougly document
> where each hose currently runs (in case all else fails I can put them
> back like they are now) and then try to make it right.
>
> When I do I'll let everybody know how it goes -- or have more
> questions to ask.
>
> Thanks .....
>
> Mike
>
> On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:16:16 GMT, Michael Pomeroy <pomerom@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
> >
> >Did the Weber conversion.
> >
> >Problems with timing/advance.
> >
> >If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
> >involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
> >go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
> >that correct?
> >
> >If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
> >sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
> >acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
> >acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
> >doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
> >immediately.
> >
> >If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
> >the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
> >it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
> >maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
> >retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
> >
> >If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
> >have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
> >doesn't have much power at take-off.
> >
> >Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
> >
> >And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
> >
> >What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
> >
> >Thanks .....
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >-----
> >Michael Pomeroy
> >pomerom@yahoo.com
>
> -----
> Michael Pomeroy
> pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

If I can be of assistance, feel free to ask.

I see more of those 80's engines with vacuum lines running incorrectly
than I see set up properly.

Lots of 'mechanics' out there even get lost in that maze, so don't feel
too bad....
;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Michael Pomeroy wrote:
>
> Just a note to let those who have offered suggestions know that I have
> read and considered them all.
>
> I think the problem is probably directly related to a greater lack of
> knowledge and understanding than I thought.
>
> So today I bought enough vacuum tubing to replace all the old stuff
> (it is an '82, so this can't but help), but the earliest I can get
> back to working on the Jeep is this coming weekend.
>
> In the meantime I will be studying and thinking and working through
> all the suggestions in my mind. Then I plan to thorougly document
> where each hose currently runs (in case all else fails I can put them
> back like they are now) and then try to make it right.
>
> When I do I'll let everybody know how it goes -- or have more
> questions to ask.
>
> Thanks .....
>
> Mike
>
> On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:16:16 GMT, Michael Pomeroy <pomerom@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >1982 CJ8 6-cyl.
> >
> >Did the Weber conversion.
> >
> >Problems with timing/advance.
> >
> >If I understand correctly, the only vacuum line that should now be
> >involved is that the line that comes out of the distributor should now
> >go directly to the carburetor. Everything else should be plugged. Is
> >that correct?
> >
> >If I do this, and set the initial advance at idle as per the info
> >sticker on the vehicle to +-5 degrees it runs well. But, under harder
> >acceleration it will backfire HARD at higher revolutions. Under easy
> >acceleration without revving it up it seems to do great. Timing light
> >doing this without load shows that it goes full advance almost
> >immediately.
> >
> >If I go back and run the vacuum as it was originally plumbed, through
> >the CTO valve (with all the other now extra vacuum hoses plugged) --
> >it has a huge flat spot on acceleration and still backfires (though
> >maybe slightly less hard) like above. The timing light shows a MAJOR
> >retarding immediately upon acceleration; then goes to full advance.
> >
> >If I set the initial advance to about 10 degrees or more it doesn't
> >have the above symptoms with the vacuum hoses either way, but also
> >doesn't have much power at take-off.
> >
> >Air pump is still connected and, I assume functioning.
> >
> >And, fwiw, correct new plugs, wires, rotor, and cap.
> >
> >What am I missing; what should I be doing now?
> >
> >Thanks .....
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >-----
> >Michael Pomeroy
> >pomerom@yahoo.com
>
> -----
> Michael Pomeroy
> pomerom@yahoo.com

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Other than being loud and startling, does backfiring hurt anything?
Mine backfires occasionally, esp. when the engine is hot and has been
running all day, but it is infrequent enough that I haven't worried
about it.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Other than being loud and startling, does backfiring hurt anything?
Mine backfires occasionally, esp. when the engine is hot and has been
running all day, but it is infrequent enough that I haven't worried
about it.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Just my 2 cents worth on this. My '76 CJ had the original Carter POS carb,
and the even worse Prestolite breakerless ign. I really wanted to keep the
thing stock but after too many months of the cold running stumbles, farts &
backfires from the carb, and endless stalling episodes caused by the
ignition & its bundle-of-snakes wiring, I tossed the entire setup. I
replaced the carb with a Weber 551 kit (installed on a 2 barrel manifold
from a 258) and installed a DUI ignition kit. PRESTO, now the thing runs
like a top, no stalling, better performance & mileage.

"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309171015.eda149e@posting.google.co m...
> Other than being loud and startling, does backfiring hurt anything?
> Mine backfires occasionally, esp. when the engine is hot and has been
> running all day, but it is infrequent enough that I haven't worried
> about it.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Just my 2 cents worth on this. My '76 CJ had the original Carter POS carb,
and the even worse Prestolite breakerless ign. I really wanted to keep the
thing stock but after too many months of the cold running stumbles, farts &
backfires from the carb, and endless stalling episodes caused by the
ignition & its bundle-of-snakes wiring, I tossed the entire setup. I
replaced the carb with a Weber 551 kit (installed on a 2 barrel manifold
from a 258) and installed a DUI ignition kit. PRESTO, now the thing runs
like a top, no stalling, better performance & mileage.

"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309171015.eda149e@posting.google.co m...
> Other than being loud and startling, does backfiring hurt anything?
> Mine backfires occasionally, esp. when the engine is hot and has been
> running all day, but it is infrequent enough that I haven't worried
> about it.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Joshua Nelson wrote:

> Other than being loud and startling, does backfiring hurt anything?
> Mine backfires occasionally, esp. when the engine is hot and has been
> running all day, but it is infrequent enough that I haven't worried
> about it.

What kind of "sabbatical" do you call that? Why are you still trolling here?

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Joshua Nelson wrote:

> Other than being loud and startling, does backfiring hurt anything?
> Mine backfires occasionally, esp. when the engine is hot and has been
> running all day, but it is infrequent enough that I haven't worried
> about it.

What kind of "sabbatical" do you call that? Why are you still trolling here?

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Mixture too lean / too rich / throttle cable adjusted incorrectly.

If you tell us when it happens more precisely, should be able to narrow it
down for you. (e.g. at idle / when accelerating / when lifting off )

Worst case scenario - backfiring can set fire to your engine bay (blow back
in the carb), blow your exhaust apart or even crack piston rings. You want
to fix it.

Dave.

Joshua Nelson wrote:
> Other than being loud and startling, does backfiring hurt anything?
> Mine backfires occasionally, esp. when the engine is hot and has been
> running all day, but it is infrequent enough that I haven't worried
> about it.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Mixture too lean / too rich / throttle cable adjusted incorrectly.

If you tell us when it happens more precisely, should be able to narrow it
down for you. (e.g. at idle / when accelerating / when lifting off )

Worst case scenario - backfiring can set fire to your engine bay (blow back
in the carb), blow your exhaust apart or even crack piston rings. You want
to fix it.

Dave.

Joshua Nelson wrote:
> Other than being loud and startling, does backfiring hurt anything?
> Mine backfires occasionally, esp. when the engine is hot and has been
> running all day, but it is infrequent enough that I haven't worried
> about it.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bkb7uo$6o9$2@pita.alt.net>...
>
> What kind of "sabbatical" do you call that?


I thought several days off, including a weekend, would be long enough
to get you to calm down and act like an adult. Alas, apparently not.
Back to the killfile you go!

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bkb7uo$6o9$2@pita.alt.net>...
>
> What kind of "sabbatical" do you call that?


I thought several days off, including a weekend, would be long enough
to get you to calm down and act like an adult. Alas, apparently not.
Back to the killfile you go!

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

"Dave Milne" wrotE:

> If you tell us when it happens more precisely, should be able to narrow it
> down for you. (e.g. at idle / when accelerating / when lifting off )

Under heavy acceleration at higher RPMs when the engine is hot. e.g.,
I have been driving on the freeway in hot weather for an hour and pull
off to an exit ramp and sit at a stop light. The light turns green, I
hit the gas hard to get back up to speed quickly, and I let it rev
fairly high in gear before up-shifting (so that I can accelerate more
quickly.) This is typically the point at which I hear a backfire.


> Worst case scenario - backfiring can set fire to your engine bay (blow back
> in the carb), blow your exhaust apart or even crack piston rings. You want
> to fix it.

Ouch, no kidding. If I drive it like granny (no quick
acceleration/high RPMs) I seem to avoid backfiring so I can do that
until I figure out the bigger problem... but that's just not a fun
way to drive. :-)

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

"Dave Milne" wrotE:

> If you tell us when it happens more precisely, should be able to narrow it
> down for you. (e.g. at idle / when accelerating / when lifting off )

Under heavy acceleration at higher RPMs when the engine is hot. e.g.,
I have been driving on the freeway in hot weather for an hour and pull
off to an exit ramp and sit at a stop light. The light turns green, I
hit the gas hard to get back up to speed quickly, and I let it rev
fairly high in gear before up-shifting (so that I can accelerate more
quickly.) This is typically the point at which I hear a backfire.


> Worst case scenario - backfiring can set fire to your engine bay (blow back
> in the carb), blow your exhaust apart or even crack piston rings. You want
> to fix it.

Ouch, no kidding. If I drive it like granny (no quick
acceleration/high RPMs) I seem to avoid backfiring so I can do that
until I figure out the bigger problem... but that's just not a fun
way to drive. :-)

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

That sounds like an air leak.

You could have a leaky exhaust manifold or a bad EGR valve. My first
bet is the exhaust.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Joshua Nelson wrote:
>
> "Dave Milne" wrotE:
>
> > If you tell us when it happens more precisely, should be able to narrow it
> > down for you. (e.g. at idle / when accelerating / when lifting off )
>
> Under heavy acceleration at higher RPMs when the engine is hot. e.g.,
> I have been driving on the freeway in hot weather for an hour and pull
> off to an exit ramp and sit at a stop light. The light turns green, I
> hit the gas hard to get back up to speed quickly, and I let it rev
> fairly high in gear before up-shifting (so that I can accelerate more
> quickly.) This is typically the point at which I hear a backfire.
>
> > Worst case scenario - backfiring can set fire to your engine bay (blow back
> > in the carb), blow your exhaust apart or even crack piston rings. You want
> > to fix it.
>
> Ouch, no kidding. If I drive it like granny (no quick
> acceleration/high RPMs) I seem to avoid backfiring so I can do that
> until I figure out the bigger problem... but that's just not a fun
> way to drive. :-)

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

That sounds like an air leak.

You could have a leaky exhaust manifold or a bad EGR valve. My first
bet is the exhaust.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Joshua Nelson wrote:
>
> "Dave Milne" wrotE:
>
> > If you tell us when it happens more precisely, should be able to narrow it
> > down for you. (e.g. at idle / when accelerating / when lifting off )
>
> Under heavy acceleration at higher RPMs when the engine is hot. e.g.,
> I have been driving on the freeway in hot weather for an hour and pull
> off to an exit ramp and sit at a stop light. The light turns green, I
> hit the gas hard to get back up to speed quickly, and I let it rev
> fairly high in gear before up-shifting (so that I can accelerate more
> quickly.) This is typically the point at which I hear a backfire.
>
> > Worst case scenario - backfiring can set fire to your engine bay (blow back
> > in the carb), blow your exhaust apart or even crack piston rings. You want
> > to fix it.
>
> Ouch, no kidding. If I drive it like granny (no quick
> acceleration/high RPMs) I seem to avoid backfiring so I can do that
> until I figure out the bigger problem... but that's just not a fun
> way to drive. :-)

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Could also be running too lean (intake leak or badly set up carb). Exhaust
runs extra hot as a result and any unburned fuel in the exhaust goes bang.
You can see the flames flickering out the back of decelerating touring cars
as a rather extreme example.

--
Dave Milne, Scotland
'99 TJ 4.0 Sahara

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F69E061.6D9C9A09@sympatico.ca...
: That sounds like an air leak.
:
: You could have a leaky exhaust manifold or a bad EGR valve. My first
: bet is the exhaust.
:
: Mike
: 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
: 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
:
: Joshua Nelson wrote:
: >
: > "Dave Milne" wrotE:
: >
: > > If you tell us when it happens more precisely, should be able to
narrow it
: > > down for you. (e.g. at idle / when accelerating / when lifting off )
: >
: > Under heavy acceleration at higher RPMs when the engine is hot. e.g.,
: > I have been driving on the freeway in hot weather for an hour and pull
: > off to an exit ramp and sit at a stop light. The light turns green, I
: > hit the gas hard to get back up to speed quickly, and I let it rev
: > fairly high in gear before up-shifting (so that I can accelerate more
: > quickly.) This is typically the point at which I hear a backfire.
: >
: > > Worst case scenario - backfiring can set fire to your engine bay (blow
back
: > > in the carb), blow your exhaust apart or even crack piston rings. You
want
: > > to fix it.
: >
: > Ouch, no kidding. If I drive it like granny (no quick
: > acceleration/high RPMs) I seem to avoid backfiring so I can do that
: > until I figure out the bigger problem... but that's just not a fun
: > way to drive. :-)

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Could also be running too lean (intake leak or badly set up carb). Exhaust
runs extra hot as a result and any unburned fuel in the exhaust goes bang.
You can see the flames flickering out the back of decelerating touring cars
as a rather extreme example.

--
Dave Milne, Scotland
'99 TJ 4.0 Sahara

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F69E061.6D9C9A09@sympatico.ca...
: That sounds like an air leak.
:
: You could have a leaky exhaust manifold or a bad EGR valve. My first
: bet is the exhaust.
:
: Mike
: 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
: 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
:
: Joshua Nelson wrote:
: >
: > "Dave Milne" wrotE:
: >
: > > If you tell us when it happens more precisely, should be able to
narrow it
: > > down for you. (e.g. at idle / when accelerating / when lifting off )
: >
: > Under heavy acceleration at higher RPMs when the engine is hot. e.g.,
: > I have been driving on the freeway in hot weather for an hour and pull
: > off to an exit ramp and sit at a stop light. The light turns green, I
: > hit the gas hard to get back up to speed quickly, and I let it rev
: > fairly high in gear before up-shifting (so that I can accelerate more
: > quickly.) This is typically the point at which I hear a backfire.
: >
: > > Worst case scenario - backfiring can set fire to your engine bay (blow
back
: > > in the carb), blow your exhaust apart or even crack piston rings. You
want
: > > to fix it.
: >
: > Ouch, no kidding. If I drive it like granny (no quick
: > acceleration/high RPMs) I seem to avoid backfiring so I can do that
: > until I figure out the bigger problem... but that's just not a fun
: > way to drive. :-)

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Joshua Nelson wrote:

> Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bkb7uo$6o9$2@pita.alt.net>...
>
>>What kind of "sabbatical" do you call that?
>
>
>
> I thought several days off, including a weekend, would be long enough


for people to forget how much of a troll and liar you are?

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Joshua Nelson wrote:

> Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bkb7uo$6o9$2@pita.alt.net>...
>
>>What kind of "sabbatical" do you call that?
>
>
>
> I thought several days off, including a weekend, would be long enough


for people to forget how much of a troll and liar you are?

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Thanks Mike & Dave. It's fuel injected so it's probably not a carb
problem. :-) I will see about getting the exhaust looked at.

>
> You could have a leaky exhaust manifold or a bad EGR valve. My first
> bet is the exhaust.
>
> Could also be running too lean (intake leak or badly set up carb). Exhaust
>runs extra hot as a result and any unburned fuel in the exhaust goes
bang.
>You can see the flames flickering out the back of decelerating
touring cars
>as a rather extreme example.

Re: CJ8 weber conversion timing/backfire problem
 

Thanks Mike & Dave. It's fuel injected so it's probably not a carb
problem. :-) I will see about getting the exhaust looked at.

>
> You could have a leaky exhaust manifold or a bad EGR valve. My first
> bet is the exhaust.
>
> Could also be running too lean (intake leak or badly set up carb). Exhaust
>runs extra hot as a result and any unburned fuel in the exhaust goes
bang.
>You can see the flames flickering out the back of decelerating
touring cars
>as a rather extreme example.