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Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Is the emissions computer still in the ignition circuit?
A fast way to tell is to look at the plug on the ignition module that sits way down on the fender by the canister. The module has 3 wires coming out of it, an orange, a black and a purple. If it is still stock, the purple wire will terminate at the plug and not continue on. If the purple wire is connected, then likely someone has taken that poor excuse for a Ford emissions computer out of your misery. And just FYI, I needed a hammer and chisel to get the first canister air filter out. It was a pain to dig all the pieces out, but after that the new filter tucks right in. Mike jeepguymike wrote: > > Mike, > > Two things that I know of for sure: 1: my buddy that I bought the Jeep > from replaced the entire fuel system, so what you said about the lines > MAY hold true. I'll monkey with that tomorrow in the 90 degree heat > we're getting here in Michigan. > > And 2: Michigan doesn't have emissions testing, but they do in the > detroit area, of which I DO NOT live (but grew up in). > > All great advice! I did see the filters on a couple of web sites, so I > may as well get those and replace them. I doubt anybody has, ever. I > can afford to spend 2 bucks... > > Updates tomorrow! |
Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Is the emissions computer still in the ignition circuit?
A fast way to tell is to look at the plug on the ignition module that sits way down on the fender by the canister. The module has 3 wires coming out of it, an orange, a black and a purple. If it is still stock, the purple wire will terminate at the plug and not continue on. If the purple wire is connected, then likely someone has taken that poor excuse for a Ford emissions computer out of your misery. And just FYI, I needed a hammer and chisel to get the first canister air filter out. It was a pain to dig all the pieces out, but after that the new filter tucks right in. Mike jeepguymike wrote: > > Mike, > > Two things that I know of for sure: 1: my buddy that I bought the Jeep > from replaced the entire fuel system, so what you said about the lines > MAY hold true. I'll monkey with that tomorrow in the 90 degree heat > we're getting here in Michigan. > > And 2: Michigan doesn't have emissions testing, but they do in the > detroit area, of which I DO NOT live (but grew up in). > > All great advice! I did see the filters on a couple of web sites, so I > may as well get those and replace them. I doubt anybody has, ever. I > can afford to spend 2 bucks... > > Updates tomorrow! |
Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Hi Mike,
I've been having this same issue with fumes in my '84 CJ for a while. I just wanted to chime in and thank you for the time you spent explaining how to fix this. -- Pete '84 CJ-7 with a bunch of engine mods. Looks pretty stock from the outside. '04 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue/White leather, bone stock. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:4479BAF1.4E0EF744@sympatico.ca... > When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes > were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and > clothes would pick up the fumes. > > The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb > float bowl vent. > > Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but > none have posted back about any way to do it successfully.... > > Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb > float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They > cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small > line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and > be plugged. > > This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will > puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day. > > Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the > canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud > pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas > tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive > home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I > plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir > to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for > the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back > in. > > To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle > then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear > of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister > purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the > little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull > that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test. > > If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister. > > When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road > use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for > a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck > hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and > the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in > place too. > > The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO > valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge. > That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the > canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up > cooling system and a warmed up carburetor. > > The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge > line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the > PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you > can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work > right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told. > > Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things > explained: > http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > jeepguymike wrote: >> >> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the >> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around >> this following issue: >> >> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator >> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it >> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing. >> >> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about >> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine >> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the >> factory. >> >> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up? >> >> Thanks in advance! >> >> -Weber >> OllllllO |
Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Hi Mike,
I've been having this same issue with fumes in my '84 CJ for a while. I just wanted to chime in and thank you for the time you spent explaining how to fix this. -- Pete '84 CJ-7 with a bunch of engine mods. Looks pretty stock from the outside. '04 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue/White leather, bone stock. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:4479BAF1.4E0EF744@sympatico.ca... > When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes > were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and > clothes would pick up the fumes. > > The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb > float bowl vent. > > Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but > none have posted back about any way to do it successfully.... > > Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb > float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They > cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small > line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and > be plugged. > > This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will > puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day. > > Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the > canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud > pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas > tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive > home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I > plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir > to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for > the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back > in. > > To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle > then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear > of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister > purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the > little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull > that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test. > > If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister. > > When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road > use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for > a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck > hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and > the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in > place too. > > The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO > valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge. > That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the > canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up > cooling system and a warmed up carburetor. > > The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge > line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the > PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you > can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work > right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told. > > Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things > explained: > http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > jeepguymike wrote: >> >> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the >> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around >> this following issue: >> >> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator >> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it >> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing. >> >> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about >> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine >> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the >> factory. >> >> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up? >> >> Thanks in advance! >> >> -Weber >> OllllllO |
Re: CJ7 Evaporator canister
Hi Mike,
I've been having this same issue with fumes in my '84 CJ for a while. I just wanted to chime in and thank you for the time you spent explaining how to fix this. -- Pete '84 CJ-7 with a bunch of engine mods. Looks pretty stock from the outside. '04 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue/White leather, bone stock. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:4479BAF1.4E0EF744@sympatico.ca... > When mine crapped out I tried to drive without one, but the gas fumes > were just too much. My wife insisted I replace it because her hair and > clothes would pick up the fumes. > > The canister is actually a needed part. It is the gas tank and carb > float bowl vent. > > Lots of folks have tried to do without a canister over the years, but > none have posted back about any way to do it successfully.... > > Yes you can easily disconnect it by removing the tube from the carb > float bowl and the gas tank tube and leave these open to the air. They > cannot be plugged or the vehicle will starve for gas. Then the small > line from the EGR/CTO system can be pulled off the top purge valve and > be plugged. > > This in effect vents your carb and gas tank to the open air. They will > puke out an amazing amount of gas fumes on a hot day. > > Some basics on it. There is a $2.00 filter on the bottom of the > canister that should be changed with every major tune up or after a mud > pit run. When it plugs up it puts a vacuum on the float bowl and gas > tank which imitates running out of gas really well. I have had to drive > home from the mud pits with my gas cap loose several times because I > plugged the filter. I moved my canister way up by the brake reservoir > to avoid this and put the washer tank down low. Changing the filter for > the first time is a chore to dig it out. The new filter just tucks back > in. > > To test the canister for leaks, you start the engine and have it at idle > then you pinch closed the line that runs from the PCV system at the rear > of the carb down to the canister. If the idle changes, the canister > purge valve is bad. If you think the plumbing to the purge valve (the > little round thing on top of the canister) is bad/wrong, then just pull > that little vacuum line off before doing the above pinch test. > > If it fails the pinch test, then you need a new canister. > > When folks remove the emissions computer and emissions crap for off road > use, there are a couple basic players that still need to be in place for > a good running engine. The PCV system, the air filter flaps that suck > hot air on cold days so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice and > the gas tank vent or canister. Some engines run better with the EGR in > place too. > > The canister basic plumbing has a ported vacuum coming through the CTO > valve and the air filter thermostat down to the EGR and canister purge. > That is the small line to the top of the canister. This makes sure the > canister doesn't turn on unless you are under throttle with a warmed up > cooling system and a warmed up carburetor. > > The large lines go to the carb float bowl and the gas tank. The purge > line comes from below that little round disk up to a T fitting in the > PCV line just behind the carb. If you have a solenoid thing there, you > can toss it and just put a T fitting in. The solenoid never did work > right and the factory fix was just a straight T so I have been told. > > Here is a good site with most of the plumbing and other things > explained: > http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > jeepguymike wrote: >> >> I've dug thru the threads and came up with a couple of links to the >> follow subject, however, I need someone to tell me how to work around >> this following issue: >> >> I have a 1983 CJ7 4.2L 258 Carter 2BBL with a leaking evaporator >> canister. I read a couple of threads where the guy said he removed it >> and connected the gas hoses together and just got rid of the thing. >> >> That's what I want to do, but I'd like some guidance on how to go about >> it. There are vacuum hoses and cut wires all over the engine >> compartment, so God knows what the original configuration was from the >> factory. >> >> Anybody been thru this mod and can hook a guy up? >> >> Thanks in advance! >> >> -Weber >> OllllllO |
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