CJ body mounts torque
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I wouldn't seal them up.
I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back
square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off
roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure
nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a
bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh.
Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage
not grab....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
> > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
> > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
> > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
> > binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
> >
> > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
> > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
> > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
> > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
> > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
> > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
> >
> > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
> > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
> > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
> > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
> > ft lb for 'me'....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > michael.white@charter.net wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
> > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
> > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
> > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
> > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
> > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > > --
> > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> > > to
> > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back
square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off
roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure
nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a
bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh.
Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage
not grab....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
> > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
> > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
> > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
> > binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
> >
> > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
> > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
> > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
> > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
> > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
> > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
> >
> > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
> > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
> > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
> > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
> > ft lb for 'me'....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > michael.white@charter.net wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
> > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
> > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
> > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
> > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
> > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > > --
> > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> > > to
> > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I wouldn't seal them up.
I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back
square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off
roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure
nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a
bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh.
Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage
not grab....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
> > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
> > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
> > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
> > binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
> >
> > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
> > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
> > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
> > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
> > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
> > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
> >
> > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
> > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
> > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
> > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
> > ft lb for 'me'....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > michael.white@charter.net wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
> > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
> > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
> > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
> > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
> > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > > --
> > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> > > to
> > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back
square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off
roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure
nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a
bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh.
Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage
not grab....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
> > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
> > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
> > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
> > binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
> >
> > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
> > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
> > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
> > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
> > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
> > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
> >
> > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
> > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
> > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
> > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
> > ft lb for 'me'....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > michael.white@charter.net wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
> > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
> > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
> > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
> > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
> > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > > --
> > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> > > to
> > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I wouldn't seal them up.
I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back
square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off
roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure
nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a
bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh.
Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage
not grab....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
> > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
> > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
> > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
> > binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
> >
> > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
> > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
> > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
> > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
> > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
> > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
> >
> > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
> > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
> > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
> > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
> > ft lb for 'me'....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > michael.white@charter.net wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
> > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
> > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
> > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
> > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
> > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > > --
> > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> > > to
> > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
I have had to 'adjust' my body tub 3 times over the years to get it back
square onto the frame. Now mind you I used to do some pretty insane off
roading and have had it rubber side up a couple times, but it is sure
nice to be able to put it back on square. But then with 3/4" shaft on a
bolt, there wouldn't be much movement eh.
Though the tub being out by 3/8" is enough to make the clutch linkage
not grab....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
> > there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
> > so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
> > linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
> > binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
> >
> > The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
> > the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
> > washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
> > through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
> > of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
> > between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
> >
> > Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
> > it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
> > when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
> > as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
> > ft lb for 'me'....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > michael.white@charter.net wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
> > > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
> > > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
> > > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
> > > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
> > > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > > --
> > > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> > > to
> > > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
Chris
<michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>
>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>
>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>> ft lb for 'me'....
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all,
>> >
>> > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>> > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>> > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>> > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>> > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>> > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> > --
>> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>> > to
>> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
Chris
<michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>
>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>
>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>> ft lb for 'me'....
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all,
>> >
>> > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>> > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>> > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>> > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>> > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>> > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> > --
>> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>> > to
>> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
Chris
<michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>
>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>
>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>> ft lb for 'me'....
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all,
>> >
>> > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>> > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>> > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>> > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>> > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>> > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> > --
>> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>> > to
>> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
Chris
<michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>
>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>
>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>> ft lb for 'me'....
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all,
>> >
>> > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>> > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>> > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>> > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>> > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>> > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> > --
>> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>> > to
>> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
Chris
<michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>
>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>
>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>> ft lb for 'me'....
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all,
>> >
>> > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>> > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>> > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>> > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>> > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>> > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> > --
>> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>> > to
>> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
Chris
<michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> then.
>
> 50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> using lock washers).
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>> there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>> so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>> linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>> binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>
>> The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>> the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>> washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>> through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>> of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>> between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>
>> Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>> it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>> when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>> as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>> ft lb for 'me'....
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all,
>> >
>> > I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>> > Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>> > manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>> > the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>> > nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>> > urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> > --
>> > Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>> > to
>> > fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts)
c wrote:
> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
>
> Chris
>
> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>Mike,
>>
>>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
>>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
>>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
>>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
>>then.
>>
>>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
>>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
>>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
>>using lock washers).
>>--
>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>>
>>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>>
>>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>>>ft lb for 'me'....
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>
>>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>>>>
>>>>Thanks.
>>>>--
>>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>>>to
>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>
>
c wrote:
> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
>
> Chris
>
> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>Mike,
>>
>>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
>>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
>>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
>>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
>>then.
>>
>>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
>>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
>>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
>>using lock washers).
>>--
>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>>
>>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>>
>>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>>>ft lb for 'me'....
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>
>>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>>>>
>>>>Thanks.
>>>>--
>>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>>>to
>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts)
c wrote:
> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
>
> Chris
>
> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>Mike,
>>
>>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
>>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
>>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
>>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
>>then.
>>
>>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
>>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
>>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
>>using lock washers).
>>--
>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>>
>>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>>
>>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>>>ft lb for 'me'....
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>
>>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>>>>
>>>>Thanks.
>>>>--
>>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>>>to
>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>
>
c wrote:
> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
>
> Chris
>
> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>Mike,
>>
>>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
>>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
>>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
>>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
>>then.
>>
>>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
>>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
>>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
>>using lock washers).
>>--
>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>>
>>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>>
>>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>>>ft lb for 'me'....
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>
>>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>>>>
>>>>Thanks.
>>>>--
>>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>>>to
>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts)
c wrote:
> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
>
> Chris
>
> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>Mike,
>>
>>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
>>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
>>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
>>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
>>then.
>>
>>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
>>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
>>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
>>using lock washers).
>>--
>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>>
>>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>>
>>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>>>ft lb for 'me'....
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>
>>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>>>>
>>>>Thanks.
>>>>--
>>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>>>to
>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>
>
c wrote:
> One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
> fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
> thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
> ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
>
> Chris
>
> <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>Mike,
>>
>>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
>>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
>>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
>>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
>>then.
>>
>>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
>>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
>>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
>>using lock washers).
>>--
>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>to
>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
>>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
>>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
>>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
>>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
>>>
>>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
>>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
>>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
>>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
>>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
>>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
>>>
>>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
>>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
>>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
>>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
>>>ft lb for 'me'....
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>michael.white@charter.net wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>
>>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
>>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
>>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
>>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
>>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
>>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
>>>>
>>>>Thanks.
>>>>--
>>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
>>>>to
>>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
>>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CJ body mounts torque
I used loctite on mine and they stayed put.
Mike
RoyJ wrote:
>
> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts)
>
> c wrote:
> > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
> > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
> > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
> > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
> > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
> >
> >>Mike,
> >>
> >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> >>then.
> >>
> >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> >>using lock washers).
> >>--
> >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> >>to
> >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
> >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
> >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
> >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
> >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
> >>>
> >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
> >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
> >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
> >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
> >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
> >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
> >>>
> >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
> >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
> >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
> >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
> >>>ft lb for 'me'....
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>
> >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>Hi all,
> >>>>
> >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
> >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
> >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
> >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
> >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
> >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
> >>>>
> >>>>Thanks.
> >>>>--
> >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> >>>>to
> >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
> >>
> >
> >
Mike
RoyJ wrote:
>
> 260 ft-lbs to be exact (generic specs for non lubed bolts)
>
> c wrote:
> > One thing to take in to consideration. Part of the reason for torquing
> > fasteners is to prevent them from loosening. The proper torque is based on
> > thread pitch and diameter. A 3/4" bolt will probably need more than 50
> > ft-lbs of torque to prevent loosening.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > <michael.white@charter.net> wrote in message
> > news:1164695315.497013.209250@l12g2000cwl.googlegr oups.com...
> >
> >>Mike,
> >>
> >>Thanks for the info. I'm not removing the body, only jacking it up far
> >>enough to remove the bushings. So far, all of the new 3/4" bolts have
> >>slid right in, so I figure my alignment won't signficantly shift. If I
> >>have problems with alignment, I'll try switching to a smaller bolt
> >>then.
> >>
> >>50 ft-lbs sounds about right for hardened bolts of that size. That's
> >>about what the transmission bolts are, if I recall. I just don't want
> >>them coming loose once I weld plates over the holes I cut (I'm also
> >>using lock washers).
> >>--
> >>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> >>to
> >> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>>I do not think 3/4" bolts will work. They will fill the hole up so
> >>>there is no adjustment on the mounts and you 'Do' need adjustment space
> >>>so you can square the body with the frame or things like the clutch
> >>>linkage won't work and the shifters can hit the tub or the shifter boot
> >>>binds or the wheels stick out on one side....
> >>>
> >>>The mounts also have a metal tube in their centers with washers that fit
> >>>the 3/8" bolts so they cannot be compressed too much. They have a
> >>>washer, then a thick donut on top with a metal tube that fits loose
> >>>through the frame plate and another thin donut that goes over the bottom
> >>>of the metal tube with a washer so the frame plate is sandwiched
> >>>between. This makes for an up and down vibration damper.
> >>>
> >>>Someone on here gave me the torque settings once, Bill maybe. I think
> >>>it was someplace around 50 ft lb, but don't remember. I can feel it
> >>>when mine come up tight to the inside tube so the rubber is compressed
> >>>as far as it compresses. I then go one grunt past which is about 50-60
> >>>ft lb for 'me'....
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>
> >>>michael.white@charter.net wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>Hi all,
> >>>>
> >>>>I'm in the process of replacing the body mounts and bolts on my '82
> >>>>Scrambler, and I can't seem to find the torque in the factory service
> >>>>manual. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? I've had to cut out all
> >>>>the old insert nuts and am replacing them with 3/4" grade 8 bolts and
> >>>>nuts, so I need to know the torque more to keep from squashing the new
> >>>>urethane bushings too much rather than for breaking the bolts :).
> >>>>
> >>>>Thanks.
> >>>>--
> >>>>Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is
> >>>>to
> >>>> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
> >>
> >
> >