You have too many threads going on.

I gave up rebuilding MC's years ago. The kits just plain don't work
because you have to hone out the cylinder and they 'don't' sell you
oversized O-rings or cups to make up for it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

tyytyy22 wrote:
>
> thanks for the help. if i took out the master cylinder and replaced all
> the parts in one of these kits:
> http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/13305
> do you think it would work? or should i just buy a new master cylinder?

 

You have too many threads going on.

I gave up rebuilding MC's years ago. The kits just plain don't work
because you have to hone out the cylinder and they 'don't' sell you
oversized O-rings or cups to make up for it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

tyytyy22 wrote:
>
> thanks for the help. if i took out the master cylinder and replaced all
> the parts in one of these kits:
> http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/13305
> do you think it would work? or should i just buy a new master cylinder?

 

You have too many threads going on.

I gave up rebuilding MC's years ago. The kits just plain don't work
because you have to hone out the cylinder and they 'don't' sell you
oversized O-rings or cups to make up for it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

tyytyy22 wrote:
>
> thanks for the help. if i took out the master cylinder and replaced all
> the parts in one of these kits:
> http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/13305
> do you think it would work? or should i just buy a new master cylinder?

 

On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 00:27:49 -0500, "billy ray" <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net>
wrote:

>If depends.... do you have the hones, etc that would be required to do it
>yourself?
>
>Master Cylinders don't cost that much to buy remanufactured and if you have
>another vehicle you can remove your current one beforehand and avoid paying
>the core charge ($20-$25) They will also (usually) come with a small kit
>for bleeding before installation.
>
>As a final note I would use suggest that you use the synthetic DOT 4 fluid
>instead of the standard DOT 3. It is less attractive to water which leads
>to less corrosion in the system (the black gunk), has a higher boiling
>point, and only costs an additional $1 per quart.
>http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51
>
>
>"tyytyy22" <ssejk5@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:1138587676.477175.6370@z14g2000cwz.googlegro ups.com...
>> thanks for the help. if i took out the master cylinder and replaced all
>> the parts in one of these kits:
>> http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/13305
>> do you think it would work? or should i just buy a new master cylinder?
>>
>


A big plus with the better rebuilt master cylinders is the installation of
a bronze cylinder which is much less likely to corrode than the aluminum of
the original bore.
--

Dave in Columbus

 

On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 00:27:49 -0500, "billy ray" <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net>
wrote:

>If depends.... do you have the hones, etc that would be required to do it
>yourself?
>
>Master Cylinders don't cost that much to buy remanufactured and if you have
>another vehicle you can remove your current one beforehand and avoid paying
>the core charge ($20-$25) They will also (usually) come with a small kit
>for bleeding before installation.
>
>As a final note I would use suggest that you use the synthetic DOT 4 fluid
>instead of the standard DOT 3. It is less attractive to water which leads
>to less corrosion in the system (the black gunk), has a higher boiling
>point, and only costs an additional $1 per quart.
>http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51
>
>
>"tyytyy22" <ssejk5@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:1138587676.477175.6370@z14g2000cwz.googlegro ups.com...
>> thanks for the help. if i took out the master cylinder and replaced all
>> the parts in one of these kits:
>> http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/13305
>> do you think it would work? or should i just buy a new master cylinder?
>>
>


A big plus with the better rebuilt master cylinders is the installation of
a bronze cylinder which is much less likely to corrode than the aluminum of
the original bore.
--

Dave in Columbus

 

On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 00:27:49 -0500, "billy ray" <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net>
wrote:

>If depends.... do you have the hones, etc that would be required to do it
>yourself?
>
>Master Cylinders don't cost that much to buy remanufactured and if you have
>another vehicle you can remove your current one beforehand and avoid paying
>the core charge ($20-$25) They will also (usually) come with a small kit
>for bleeding before installation.
>
>As a final note I would use suggest that you use the synthetic DOT 4 fluid
>instead of the standard DOT 3. It is less attractive to water which leads
>to less corrosion in the system (the black gunk), has a higher boiling
>point, and only costs an additional $1 per quart.
>http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51
>
>
>"tyytyy22" <ssejk5@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:1138587676.477175.6370@z14g2000cwz.googlegro ups.com...
>> thanks for the help. if i took out the master cylinder and replaced all
>> the parts in one of these kits:
>> http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/13305
>> do you think it would work? or should i just buy a new master cylinder?
>>
>


A big plus with the better rebuilt master cylinders is the installation of
a bronze cylinder which is much less likely to corrode than the aluminum of
the original bore.
--

Dave in Columbus