Re: check engine light
 

too lean usually means vac. leak or running out of fuel i will bet it's the
vac leak
like the air filter tube to the throttle body is loose

Kate wrote:

> FIRST
> Don't blame your lack of knowledge on being "Just a girl"
> Give yourself more credit than that. By the time this is over, you WILL
> know. You just have not needed to know this until now and once you learn you
> won't likely soon forget.
>
> SECOND
> If you bought the vehicle before having it thorougly checked out, shame on
> you.
> Again, this is a lesson most of us learn the hard way. More than once.
>
> THIRD
> You can clean your own Mass Airflow Sensor and save yourself a ton of money.
> Often times they are just dirty and do not need replacing at all. If it DOES
> need replacing, then buy one at a parts house and save half the price over
> the dealership and install it yourself. It's a very easy repair.
> As far as cleaning your MAF, it's not hard to do but you do have to be
> careful when you do it. You have to use proper cleaners and you may need to
> buy a special screwdriver to get it out. No big deal really. When you are
> done you'll need reset your computer to clear the error codes. You do this
> by disconnecting the negative battery cable for several minutes, I think
> it's something like 10 minutes. You might want to try this anyway just in
> case the shop didn't do it.
> .
> Check with the guys in the Ford groups, the Mustang group will be pretty
> helpful when it comes to this sort of thing and may even 'pony up' some step
> by step instructions for your rig if anyone has a service CD. Not saying the
> Jeep boys aren't helpful but they ARE Jeep boys and Jeeps have a whole
> diffrent set of problems than Fords. I have one of each in the driveway,
> trust me I know.
>
> Check:
> rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
>
> Here's another thought.
> When some of these things have to be replaced you may have problems right
> after it's repaired.
> Sometimes they will forget to reset the codes and other times when they do
> it takes a few days for the rig to readjust itself to the new parts and to
> the reset computer.A vehicle can run badly right after a computer reset.
>
> I think that what you need to do is start back where you began. The people
> that sold you the O2 sensors. If you're still getting codes and CEL, then
> you need to drive the Explorer up on their front porch, and explain to them
> in no uncertain terms that they have screwed up, cost you a ton of time and
> money and that you want it fixed, and fixed correctly or you will be forced
> to bring your dad/husband/brother/all of the above back and have them whoop
> some serious ass.
> OR the Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) and the Better Business Bureau
> (BBB). But first try turning on the charm and see if it helps.
>
> These types of problems are something that shops just LOVE to throw parts
> at. They don't really KNOW what the problem is, so they spend YOUR money at
> it until they finally guess right. Kinda like being shot at and missed and
> ---- at and hit.
>
> Best of luck and post your results, ok!
>
> Kate
>
> <iamfree12078@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1164516829.728014.12780@l39g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
> >I had my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport in the garage in July. After almost
> > $1500 in repairs,maintenence and new tires, turns out the check engine
> > light was on because of a faulty O2 sensor. The receipt says something
> > like found O2 sensors and valve to be bad, neccesary to replace
> > both...now my problem is this...the light is back on. I had Autozone
> > run a diagnostics on it and the results were "system too lean bank one"
> > and "system too lean bank 2". What does that mean? They guy at
> > autozone said it might be the O2 sensor. But left it at
> > that...might... How many O2 sensors does my truck have???? And is it
> > possible that the one(s) they replaced in July could have gone sour so
> > soon? I really don't have the money or the patience at this time to
> > keep messing around with this vehicle and if it weren't for the 4 more
> > years I have to pay on it, I would trade it in in a heartbeat.
> > Also, when I start the truck, it starts up fine most of the time but
> > right after it starts it idles high for a second before calming
> > down...so instead of going "vrooom"..it starts up like "vrooooOOOOM"
> > It's almost as if the key were being held back too long regardless as
> > to how soon you let go. There's one more problem....when it is cold
> > out (which it's been getting down there in temprature as I am from
> > central NY) sometimes it won't stay started. I had this problem when
> > I first got the vehicle and they fixed something called an IAC
> > component(?) and it was fine after that. What it seems to be doing is
> > idling down to 1 on the RPMs then stalling out....(please, bear with
> > me, I'm a girl and don't know much about cars other than where to put
> > the gas and windshield fluid ) I'm realy quite fed up with this truck
> > and am starting to feel like they tricked me into buying it because 1.
> > I'm a girl and 2. they needed to get rid of it. Besides setting it on
> > fire and pushing it off a cliff...any advice would be helpful. Thanks
> > in advance...Jessie2blue
> >

Re: check engine light
 

too lean usually means vac. leak or running out of fuel i will bet it's the
vac leak
like the air filter tube to the throttle body is loose

Kate wrote:

> FIRST
> Don't blame your lack of knowledge on being "Just a girl"
> Give yourself more credit than that. By the time this is over, you WILL
> know. You just have not needed to know this until now and once you learn you
> won't likely soon forget.
>
> SECOND
> If you bought the vehicle before having it thorougly checked out, shame on
> you.
> Again, this is a lesson most of us learn the hard way. More than once.
>
> THIRD
> You can clean your own Mass Airflow Sensor and save yourself a ton of money.
> Often times they are just dirty and do not need replacing at all. If it DOES
> need replacing, then buy one at a parts house and save half the price over
> the dealership and install it yourself. It's a very easy repair.
> As far as cleaning your MAF, it's not hard to do but you do have to be
> careful when you do it. You have to use proper cleaners and you may need to
> buy a special screwdriver to get it out. No big deal really. When you are
> done you'll need reset your computer to clear the error codes. You do this
> by disconnecting the negative battery cable for several minutes, I think
> it's something like 10 minutes. You might want to try this anyway just in
> case the shop didn't do it.
> .
> Check with the guys in the Ford groups, the Mustang group will be pretty
> helpful when it comes to this sort of thing and may even 'pony up' some step
> by step instructions for your rig if anyone has a service CD. Not saying the
> Jeep boys aren't helpful but they ARE Jeep boys and Jeeps have a whole
> diffrent set of problems than Fords. I have one of each in the driveway,
> trust me I know.
>
> Check:
> rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
>
> Here's another thought.
> When some of these things have to be replaced you may have problems right
> after it's repaired.
> Sometimes they will forget to reset the codes and other times when they do
> it takes a few days for the rig to readjust itself to the new parts and to
> the reset computer.A vehicle can run badly right after a computer reset.
>
> I think that what you need to do is start back where you began. The people
> that sold you the O2 sensors. If you're still getting codes and CEL, then
> you need to drive the Explorer up on their front porch, and explain to them
> in no uncertain terms that they have screwed up, cost you a ton of time and
> money and that you want it fixed, and fixed correctly or you will be forced
> to bring your dad/husband/brother/all of the above back and have them whoop
> some serious ass.
> OR the Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) and the Better Business Bureau
> (BBB). But first try turning on the charm and see if it helps.
>
> These types of problems are something that shops just LOVE to throw parts
> at. They don't really KNOW what the problem is, so they spend YOUR money at
> it until they finally guess right. Kinda like being shot at and missed and
> ---- at and hit.
>
> Best of luck and post your results, ok!
>
> Kate
>
> <iamfree12078@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1164516829.728014.12780@l39g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
> >I had my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport in the garage in July. After almost
> > $1500 in repairs,maintenence and new tires, turns out the check engine
> > light was on because of a faulty O2 sensor. The receipt says something
> > like found O2 sensors and valve to be bad, neccesary to replace
> > both...now my problem is this...the light is back on. I had Autozone
> > run a diagnostics on it and the results were "system too lean bank one"
> > and "system too lean bank 2". What does that mean? They guy at
> > autozone said it might be the O2 sensor. But left it at
> > that...might... How many O2 sensors does my truck have???? And is it
> > possible that the one(s) they replaced in July could have gone sour so
> > soon? I really don't have the money or the patience at this time to
> > keep messing around with this vehicle and if it weren't for the 4 more
> > years I have to pay on it, I would trade it in in a heartbeat.
> > Also, when I start the truck, it starts up fine most of the time but
> > right after it starts it idles high for a second before calming
> > down...so instead of going "vrooom"..it starts up like "vrooooOOOOM"
> > It's almost as if the key were being held back too long regardless as
> > to how soon you let go. There's one more problem....when it is cold
> > out (which it's been getting down there in temprature as I am from
> > central NY) sometimes it won't stay started. I had this problem when
> > I first got the vehicle and they fixed something called an IAC
> > component(?) and it was fine after that. What it seems to be doing is
> > idling down to 1 on the RPMs then stalling out....(please, bear with
> > me, I'm a girl and don't know much about cars other than where to put
> > the gas and windshield fluid ) I'm realy quite fed up with this truck
> > and am starting to feel like they tricked me into buying it because 1.
> > I'm a girl and 2. they needed to get rid of it. Besides setting it on
> > fire and pushing it off a cliff...any advice would be helpful. Thanks
> > in advance...Jessie2blue
> >

Re: check engine light
 

too lean usually means vac. leak or running out of fuel i will bet it's the
vac leak
like the air filter tube to the throttle body is loose

Kate wrote:

> FIRST
> Don't blame your lack of knowledge on being "Just a girl"
> Give yourself more credit than that. By the time this is over, you WILL
> know. You just have not needed to know this until now and once you learn you
> won't likely soon forget.
>
> SECOND
> If you bought the vehicle before having it thorougly checked out, shame on
> you.
> Again, this is a lesson most of us learn the hard way. More than once.
>
> THIRD
> You can clean your own Mass Airflow Sensor and save yourself a ton of money.
> Often times they are just dirty and do not need replacing at all. If it DOES
> need replacing, then buy one at a parts house and save half the price over
> the dealership and install it yourself. It's a very easy repair.
> As far as cleaning your MAF, it's not hard to do but you do have to be
> careful when you do it. You have to use proper cleaners and you may need to
> buy a special screwdriver to get it out. No big deal really. When you are
> done you'll need reset your computer to clear the error codes. You do this
> by disconnecting the negative battery cable for several minutes, I think
> it's something like 10 minutes. You might want to try this anyway just in
> case the shop didn't do it.
> .
> Check with the guys in the Ford groups, the Mustang group will be pretty
> helpful when it comes to this sort of thing and may even 'pony up' some step
> by step instructions for your rig if anyone has a service CD. Not saying the
> Jeep boys aren't helpful but they ARE Jeep boys and Jeeps have a whole
> diffrent set of problems than Fords. I have one of each in the driveway,
> trust me I know.
>
> Check:
> rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
>
> Here's another thought.
> When some of these things have to be replaced you may have problems right
> after it's repaired.
> Sometimes they will forget to reset the codes and other times when they do
> it takes a few days for the rig to readjust itself to the new parts and to
> the reset computer.A vehicle can run badly right after a computer reset.
>
> I think that what you need to do is start back where you began. The people
> that sold you the O2 sensors. If you're still getting codes and CEL, then
> you need to drive the Explorer up on their front porch, and explain to them
> in no uncertain terms that they have screwed up, cost you a ton of time and
> money and that you want it fixed, and fixed correctly or you will be forced
> to bring your dad/husband/brother/all of the above back and have them whoop
> some serious ass.
> OR the Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) and the Better Business Bureau
> (BBB). But first try turning on the charm and see if it helps.
>
> These types of problems are something that shops just LOVE to throw parts
> at. They don't really KNOW what the problem is, so they spend YOUR money at
> it until they finally guess right. Kinda like being shot at and missed and
> ---- at and hit.
>
> Best of luck and post your results, ok!
>
> Kate
>
> <iamfree12078@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1164516829.728014.12780@l39g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
> >I had my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport in the garage in July. After almost
> > $1500 in repairs,maintenence and new tires, turns out the check engine
> > light was on because of a faulty O2 sensor. The receipt says something
> > like found O2 sensors and valve to be bad, neccesary to replace
> > both...now my problem is this...the light is back on. I had Autozone
> > run a diagnostics on it and the results were "system too lean bank one"
> > and "system too lean bank 2". What does that mean? They guy at
> > autozone said it might be the O2 sensor. But left it at
> > that...might... How many O2 sensors does my truck have???? And is it
> > possible that the one(s) they replaced in July could have gone sour so
> > soon? I really don't have the money or the patience at this time to
> > keep messing around with this vehicle and if it weren't for the 4 more
> > years I have to pay on it, I would trade it in in a heartbeat.
> > Also, when I start the truck, it starts up fine most of the time but
> > right after it starts it idles high for a second before calming
> > down...so instead of going "vrooom"..it starts up like "vrooooOOOOM"
> > It's almost as if the key were being held back too long regardless as
> > to how soon you let go. There's one more problem....when it is cold
> > out (which it's been getting down there in temprature as I am from
> > central NY) sometimes it won't stay started. I had this problem when
> > I first got the vehicle and they fixed something called an IAC
> > component(?) and it was fine after that. What it seems to be doing is
> > idling down to 1 on the RPMs then stalling out....(please, bear with
> > me, I'm a girl and don't know much about cars other than where to put
> > the gas and windshield fluid ) I'm realy quite fed up with this truck
> > and am starting to feel like they tricked me into buying it because 1.
> > I'm a girl and 2. they needed to get rid of it. Besides setting it on
> > fire and pushing it off a cliff...any advice would be helpful. Thanks
> > in advance...Jessie2blue
> >

Re: check engine light
 

Don't diss being a girl, at least you ask around when someone starts
feeding you a line of BS!!!

Your symptoms and error code are signs of a vacumn or manifold system
leak somewhere. Other folks mentioned the Mass Air Flow sensor, this
shuold be checked since it's easy to get at but I doubt it is the
problem. It is really just to fine tune the engine, not run the basic
air mix.

Lean mix codes usually mean change out the O2 sensors, there are 3 of
them, 1 on each exhaust bank, one on the output of the catalytic
converter. Your error codes are the result of one or the other of the O2
sensors on the exhaust banks saying the engine is too lean, engine
computer cannot compensate enough to get it rich again. Since you get
both banks, I doubt if it is the O2 sensors.

Assuming you have the standard 4.0 V-6, these engines are prone to
warpage and leaking of the intake manifold to the block. Symptoms are
the two error codes you are getting , radnom codes of both bank 1 and
bank 2 too lean. Other symptoms are hesitation and bucking at low
speeds, poor cold idle.

You need to have a ****GOOD**** ****DEALER*** tech do a full diagnostic
on the engine. The clerk at the autozone place does not qualify. Show up
at the dealer, tell them you have a nagging and recurring problem, do
they have a top engine tech that can look at it. If they don't
immediately say "well, that means we need to have xx or yy look at it,
xx is booked until next week, yy is booked until Friday, can you wait?"
go somewhere else. Top techs get booked well in advance.

If it is the manifold gakets, plan on $500. $130 for the diagnosis, $100
for various gaskets and other parts, $300 for labor. It's fairly
involved to dig all the way down to the offending gasket.

Cheers.



iamfree12078@yahoo.com wrote:

> oops..I think I posted this in the wrong group..but like a typical
> girl, I don't know how to post it in the right one...can't find
> it...lol...
> iamfree12...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>I had my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport in the garage in July. After almost
>>$1500 in repairs,maintenence and new tires, turns out the check engine
>>light was on because of a faulty O2 sensor. The receipt says something
>>like found O2 sensors and valve to be bad, neccesary to replace
>>both...now my problem is this...the light is back on. I had Autozone
>>run a diagnostics on it and the results were "system too lean bank one"
>>and "system too lean bank 2". What does that mean? They guy at
>>autozone said it might be the O2 sensor. But left it at
>>that...might... How many O2 sensors does my truck have???? And is it
>>possible that the one(s) they replaced in July could have gone sour so
>>soon? I really don't have the money or the patience at this time to
>>keep messing around with this vehicle and if it weren't for the 4 more
>>years I have to pay on it, I would trade it in in a heartbeat.
>>Also, when I start the truck, it starts up fine most of the time but
>>right after it starts it idles high for a second before calming
>>down...so instead of going "vrooom"..it starts up like "vrooooOOOOM"
>>It's almost as if the key were being held back too long regardless as
>>to how soon you let go. There's one more problem....when it is cold
>>out (which it's been getting down there in temprature as I am from
>>central NY) sometimes it won't stay started. I had this problem when
>>I first got the vehicle and they fixed something called an IAC
>>component(?) and it was fine after that. What it seems to be doing is
>>idling down to 1 on the RPMs then stalling out....(please, bear with
>>me, I'm a girl and don't know much about cars other than where to put
>>the gas and windshield fluid ) I'm realy quite fed up with this truck
>>and am starting to feel like they tricked me into buying it because 1.
>>I'm a girl and 2. they needed to get rid of it. Besides setting it on
>>fire and pushing it off a cliff...any advice would be helpful. Thanks
>>in advance...Jessie2blue
>
>

Re: check engine light
 

Don't diss being a girl, at least you ask around when someone starts
feeding you a line of BS!!!

Your symptoms and error code are signs of a vacumn or manifold system
leak somewhere. Other folks mentioned the Mass Air Flow sensor, this
shuold be checked since it's easy to get at but I doubt it is the
problem. It is really just to fine tune the engine, not run the basic
air mix.

Lean mix codes usually mean change out the O2 sensors, there are 3 of
them, 1 on each exhaust bank, one on the output of the catalytic
converter. Your error codes are the result of one or the other of the O2
sensors on the exhaust banks saying the engine is too lean, engine
computer cannot compensate enough to get it rich again. Since you get
both banks, I doubt if it is the O2 sensors.

Assuming you have the standard 4.0 V-6, these engines are prone to
warpage and leaking of the intake manifold to the block. Symptoms are
the two error codes you are getting , radnom codes of both bank 1 and
bank 2 too lean. Other symptoms are hesitation and bucking at low
speeds, poor cold idle.

You need to have a ****GOOD**** ****DEALER*** tech do a full diagnostic
on the engine. The clerk at the autozone place does not qualify. Show up
at the dealer, tell them you have a nagging and recurring problem, do
they have a top engine tech that can look at it. If they don't
immediately say "well, that means we need to have xx or yy look at it,
xx is booked until next week, yy is booked until Friday, can you wait?"
go somewhere else. Top techs get booked well in advance.

If it is the manifold gakets, plan on $500. $130 for the diagnosis, $100
for various gaskets and other parts, $300 for labor. It's fairly
involved to dig all the way down to the offending gasket.

Cheers.



iamfree12078@yahoo.com wrote:

> oops..I think I posted this in the wrong group..but like a typical
> girl, I don't know how to post it in the right one...can't find
> it...lol...
> iamfree12...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>I had my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport in the garage in July. After almost
>>$1500 in repairs,maintenence and new tires, turns out the check engine
>>light was on because of a faulty O2 sensor. The receipt says something
>>like found O2 sensors and valve to be bad, neccesary to replace
>>both...now my problem is this...the light is back on. I had Autozone
>>run a diagnostics on it and the results were "system too lean bank one"
>>and "system too lean bank 2". What does that mean? They guy at
>>autozone said it might be the O2 sensor. But left it at
>>that...might... How many O2 sensors does my truck have???? And is it
>>possible that the one(s) they replaced in July could have gone sour so
>>soon? I really don't have the money or the patience at this time to
>>keep messing around with this vehicle and if it weren't for the 4 more
>>years I have to pay on it, I would trade it in in a heartbeat.
>>Also, when I start the truck, it starts up fine most of the time but
>>right after it starts it idles high for a second before calming
>>down...so instead of going "vrooom"..it starts up like "vrooooOOOOM"
>>It's almost as if the key were being held back too long regardless as
>>to how soon you let go. There's one more problem....when it is cold
>>out (which it's been getting down there in temprature as I am from
>>central NY) sometimes it won't stay started. I had this problem when
>>I first got the vehicle and they fixed something called an IAC
>>component(?) and it was fine after that. What it seems to be doing is
>>idling down to 1 on the RPMs then stalling out....(please, bear with
>>me, I'm a girl and don't know much about cars other than where to put
>>the gas and windshield fluid ) I'm realy quite fed up with this truck
>>and am starting to feel like they tricked me into buying it because 1.
>>I'm a girl and 2. they needed to get rid of it. Besides setting it on
>>fire and pushing it off a cliff...any advice would be helpful. Thanks
>>in advance...Jessie2blue
>
>

Re: check engine light
 

Don't diss being a girl, at least you ask around when someone starts
feeding you a line of BS!!!

Your symptoms and error code are signs of a vacumn or manifold system
leak somewhere. Other folks mentioned the Mass Air Flow sensor, this
shuold be checked since it's easy to get at but I doubt it is the
problem. It is really just to fine tune the engine, not run the basic
air mix.

Lean mix codes usually mean change out the O2 sensors, there are 3 of
them, 1 on each exhaust bank, one on the output of the catalytic
converter. Your error codes are the result of one or the other of the O2
sensors on the exhaust banks saying the engine is too lean, engine
computer cannot compensate enough to get it rich again. Since you get
both banks, I doubt if it is the O2 sensors.

Assuming you have the standard 4.0 V-6, these engines are prone to
warpage and leaking of the intake manifold to the block. Symptoms are
the two error codes you are getting , radnom codes of both bank 1 and
bank 2 too lean. Other symptoms are hesitation and bucking at low
speeds, poor cold idle.

You need to have a ****GOOD**** ****DEALER*** tech do a full diagnostic
on the engine. The clerk at the autozone place does not qualify. Show up
at the dealer, tell them you have a nagging and recurring problem, do
they have a top engine tech that can look at it. If they don't
immediately say "well, that means we need to have xx or yy look at it,
xx is booked until next week, yy is booked until Friday, can you wait?"
go somewhere else. Top techs get booked well in advance.

If it is the manifold gakets, plan on $500. $130 for the diagnosis, $100
for various gaskets and other parts, $300 for labor. It's fairly
involved to dig all the way down to the offending gasket.

Cheers.



iamfree12078@yahoo.com wrote:

> oops..I think I posted this in the wrong group..but like a typical
> girl, I don't know how to post it in the right one...can't find
> it...lol...
> iamfree12...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>I had my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport in the garage in July. After almost
>>$1500 in repairs,maintenence and new tires, turns out the check engine
>>light was on because of a faulty O2 sensor. The receipt says something
>>like found O2 sensors and valve to be bad, neccesary to replace
>>both...now my problem is this...the light is back on. I had Autozone
>>run a diagnostics on it and the results were "system too lean bank one"
>>and "system too lean bank 2". What does that mean? They guy at
>>autozone said it might be the O2 sensor. But left it at
>>that...might... How many O2 sensors does my truck have???? And is it
>>possible that the one(s) they replaced in July could have gone sour so
>>soon? I really don't have the money or the patience at this time to
>>keep messing around with this vehicle and if it weren't for the 4 more
>>years I have to pay on it, I would trade it in in a heartbeat.
>>Also, when I start the truck, it starts up fine most of the time but
>>right after it starts it idles high for a second before calming
>>down...so instead of going "vrooom"..it starts up like "vrooooOOOOM"
>>It's almost as if the key were being held back too long regardless as
>>to how soon you let go. There's one more problem....when it is cold
>>out (which it's been getting down there in temprature as I am from
>>central NY) sometimes it won't stay started. I had this problem when
>>I first got the vehicle and they fixed something called an IAC
>>component(?) and it was fine after that. What it seems to be doing is
>>idling down to 1 on the RPMs then stalling out....(please, bear with
>>me, I'm a girl and don't know much about cars other than where to put
>>the gas and windshield fluid ) I'm realy quite fed up with this truck
>>and am starting to feel like they tricked me into buying it because 1.
>>I'm a girl and 2. they needed to get rid of it. Besides setting it on
>>fire and pushing it off a cliff...any advice would be helpful. Thanks
>>in advance...Jessie2blue
>
>

Re: check engine light
 

On Mon, 01 Jan 2007 17:24:40 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:

>Don't diss being a girl, at least you ask around when someone starts
>feeding you a line of BS!!!
>
>Your symptoms and error code are signs of a vacumn or manifold system
>leak somewhere. Other folks mentioned the Mass Air Flow sensor, this
>shuold be checked since it's easy to get at but I doubt it is the
>problem. It is really just to fine tune the engine, not run the basic
>air mix.

To run the basic air mix, the most important thing the computer must
do is calculate how much air is being taken in, so it can determine
how much fuel it's gonna take to make the engine run. That is what the
MAF sensor does. The modifiers would be temp (air & coolant) & baro
sensors with O2 sensors for fine tuning.

>
>Lean mix codes usually mean change out the O2 sensors, there are 3 of
>them, 1 on each exhaust bank, one on the output of the catalytic
>converter. Your error codes are the result of one or the other of the O2
>sensors on the exhaust banks saying the engine is too lean, engine
>computer cannot compensate enough to get it rich again. Since you get
>both banks, I doubt if it is the O2 sensors.

Uhh... Lean mix codes USUALLY mean the mixture is lean, NOT to throw
an O2 sensor at it.

>
>Assuming you have the standard 4.0 V-6, these engines are prone to
>warpage and leaking of the intake manifold to the block. Symptoms are
>the two error codes you are getting , radnom codes of both bank 1 and
>bank 2 too lean. Other symptoms are hesitation and bucking at low
>speeds, poor cold idle.
>
>You need to have a ****GOOD**** ****DEALER*** tech do a full diagnostic
>on the engine. The clerk at the autozone place does not qualify. Show up
>at the dealer, tell them you have a nagging and recurring problem, do
>they have a top engine tech that can look at it. If they don't
>immediately say "well, that means we need to have xx or yy look at it,
>xx is booked until next week, yy is booked until Friday, can you wait?"
>go somewhere else. Top techs get booked well in advance.
>
>If it is the manifold gakets, plan on $500. $130 for the diagnosis, $100
>for various gaskets and other parts, $300 for labor. It's fairly
>involved to dig all the way down to the offending gasket.
>
>Cheers.
>
>
>
>iamfree12078@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> oops..I think I posted this in the wrong group..but like a typical
>> girl, I don't know how to post it in the right one...can't find
>> it...lol...
>> iamfree12...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>>I had my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport in the garage in July. After almost
>>>$1500 in repairs,maintenence and new tires, turns out the check engine
>>>light was on because of a faulty O2 sensor. The receipt says something
>>>like found O2 sensors and valve to be bad, neccesary to replace
>>>both...now my problem is this...the light is back on. I had Autozone
>>>run a diagnostics on it and the results were "system too lean bank one"
>>>and "system too lean bank 2". What does that mean? They guy at
>>>autozone said it might be the O2 sensor. But left it at
>>>that...might... How many O2 sensors does my truck have???? And is it
>>>possible that the one(s) they replaced in July could have gone sour so
>>>soon? I really don't have the money or the patience at this time to
>>>keep messing around with this vehicle and if it weren't for the 4 more
>>>years I have to pay on it, I would trade it in in a heartbeat.
>>>Also, when I start the truck, it starts up fine most of the time but
>>>right after it starts it idles high for a second before calming
>>>down...so instead of going "vrooom"..it starts up like "vrooooOOOOM"
>>>It's almost as if the key were being held back too long regardless as
>>>to how soon you let go. There's one more problem....when it is cold
>>>out (which it's been getting down there in temprature as I am from
>>>central NY) sometimes it won't stay started. I had this problem when
>>>I first got the vehicle and they fixed something called an IAC
>>>component(?) and it was fine after that. What it seems to be doing is
>>>idling down to 1 on the RPMs then stalling out....(please, bear with
>>>me, I'm a girl and don't know much about cars other than where to put
>>>the gas and windshield fluid ) I'm realy quite fed up with this truck
>>>and am starting to feel like they tricked me into buying it because 1.
>>>I'm a girl and 2. they needed to get rid of it. Besides setting it on
>>>fire and pushing it off a cliff...any advice would be helpful. Thanks
>>>in advance...Jessie2blue
>>
>>

Re: check engine light
 

On Mon, 01 Jan 2007 17:24:40 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:

>Don't diss being a girl, at least you ask around when someone starts
>feeding you a line of BS!!!
>
>Your symptoms and error code are signs of a vacumn or manifold system
>leak somewhere. Other folks mentioned the Mass Air Flow sensor, this
>shuold be checked since it's easy to get at but I doubt it is the
>problem. It is really just to fine tune the engine, not run the basic
>air mix.

To run the basic air mix, the most important thing the computer must
do is calculate how much air is being taken in, so it can determine
how much fuel it's gonna take to make the engine run. That is what the
MAF sensor does. The modifiers would be temp (air & coolant) & baro
sensors with O2 sensors for fine tuning.

>
>Lean mix codes usually mean change out the O2 sensors, there are 3 of
>them, 1 on each exhaust bank, one on the output of the catalytic
>converter. Your error codes are the result of one or the other of the O2
>sensors on the exhaust banks saying the engine is too lean, engine
>computer cannot compensate enough to get it rich again. Since you get
>both banks, I doubt if it is the O2 sensors.

Uhh... Lean mix codes USUALLY mean the mixture is lean, NOT to throw
an O2 sensor at it.

>
>Assuming you have the standard 4.0 V-6, these engines are prone to
>warpage and leaking of the intake manifold to the block. Symptoms are
>the two error codes you are getting , radnom codes of both bank 1 and
>bank 2 too lean. Other symptoms are hesitation and bucking at low
>speeds, poor cold idle.
>
>You need to have a ****GOOD**** ****DEALER*** tech do a full diagnostic
>on the engine. The clerk at the autozone place does not qualify. Show up
>at the dealer, tell them you have a nagging and recurring problem, do
>they have a top engine tech that can look at it. If they don't
>immediately say "well, that means we need to have xx or yy look at it,
>xx is booked until next week, yy is booked until Friday, can you wait?"
>go somewhere else. Top techs get booked well in advance.
>
>If it is the manifold gakets, plan on $500. $130 for the diagnosis, $100
>for various gaskets and other parts, $300 for labor. It's fairly
>involved to dig all the way down to the offending gasket.
>
>Cheers.
>
>
>
>iamfree12078@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> oops..I think I posted this in the wrong group..but like a typical
>> girl, I don't know how to post it in the right one...can't find
>> it...lol...
>> iamfree12...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>>I had my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport in the garage in July. After almost
>>>$1500 in repairs,maintenence and new tires, turns out the check engine
>>>light was on because of a faulty O2 sensor. The receipt says something
>>>like found O2 sensors and valve to be bad, neccesary to replace
>>>both...now my problem is this...the light is back on. I had Autozone
>>>run a diagnostics on it and the results were "system too lean bank one"
>>>and "system too lean bank 2". What does that mean? They guy at
>>>autozone said it might be the O2 sensor. But left it at
>>>that...might... How many O2 sensors does my truck have???? And is it
>>>possible that the one(s) they replaced in July could have gone sour so
>>>soon? I really don't have the money or the patience at this time to
>>>keep messing around with this vehicle and if it weren't for the 4 more
>>>years I have to pay on it, I would trade it in in a heartbeat.
>>>Also, when I start the truck, it starts up fine most of the time but
>>>right after it starts it idles high for a second before calming
>>>down...so instead of going "vrooom"..it starts up like "vrooooOOOOM"
>>>It's almost as if the key were being held back too long regardless as
>>>to how soon you let go. There's one more problem....when it is cold
>>>out (which it's been getting down there in temprature as I am from
>>>central NY) sometimes it won't stay started. I had this problem when
>>>I first got the vehicle and they fixed something called an IAC
>>>component(?) and it was fine after that. What it seems to be doing is
>>>idling down to 1 on the RPMs then stalling out....(please, bear with
>>>me, I'm a girl and don't know much about cars other than where to put
>>>the gas and windshield fluid ) I'm realy quite fed up with this truck
>>>and am starting to feel like they tricked me into buying it because 1.
>>>I'm a girl and 2. they needed to get rid of it. Besides setting it on
>>>fire and pushing it off a cliff...any advice would be helpful. Thanks
>>>in advance...Jessie2blue
>>
>>

Re: check engine light
 

On Mon, 01 Jan 2007 17:24:40 GMT, RoyJ <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote:

>Don't diss being a girl, at least you ask around when someone starts
>feeding you a line of BS!!!
>
>Your symptoms and error code are signs of a vacumn or manifold system
>leak somewhere. Other folks mentioned the Mass Air Flow sensor, this
>shuold be checked since it's easy to get at but I doubt it is the
>problem. It is really just to fine tune the engine, not run the basic
>air mix.

To run the basic air mix, the most important thing the computer must
do is calculate how much air is being taken in, so it can determine
how much fuel it's gonna take to make the engine run. That is what the
MAF sensor does. The modifiers would be temp (air & coolant) & baro
sensors with O2 sensors for fine tuning.

>
>Lean mix codes usually mean change out the O2 sensors, there are 3 of
>them, 1 on each exhaust bank, one on the output of the catalytic
>converter. Your error codes are the result of one or the other of the O2
>sensors on the exhaust banks saying the engine is too lean, engine
>computer cannot compensate enough to get it rich again. Since you get
>both banks, I doubt if it is the O2 sensors.

Uhh... Lean mix codes USUALLY mean the mixture is lean, NOT to throw
an O2 sensor at it.

>
>Assuming you have the standard 4.0 V-6, these engines are prone to
>warpage and leaking of the intake manifold to the block. Symptoms are
>the two error codes you are getting , radnom codes of both bank 1 and
>bank 2 too lean. Other symptoms are hesitation and bucking at low
>speeds, poor cold idle.
>
>You need to have a ****GOOD**** ****DEALER*** tech do a full diagnostic
>on the engine. The clerk at the autozone place does not qualify. Show up
>at the dealer, tell them you have a nagging and recurring problem, do
>they have a top engine tech that can look at it. If they don't
>immediately say "well, that means we need to have xx or yy look at it,
>xx is booked until next week, yy is booked until Friday, can you wait?"
>go somewhere else. Top techs get booked well in advance.
>
>If it is the manifold gakets, plan on $500. $130 for the diagnosis, $100
>for various gaskets and other parts, $300 for labor. It's fairly
>involved to dig all the way down to the offending gasket.
>
>Cheers.
>
>
>
>iamfree12078@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> oops..I think I posted this in the wrong group..but like a typical
>> girl, I don't know how to post it in the right one...can't find
>> it...lol...
>> iamfree12...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>>I had my 2000 Ford Explorer Sport in the garage in July. After almost
>>>$1500 in repairs,maintenence and new tires, turns out the check engine
>>>light was on because of a faulty O2 sensor. The receipt says something
>>>like found O2 sensors and valve to be bad, neccesary to replace
>>>both...now my problem is this...the light is back on. I had Autozone
>>>run a diagnostics on it and the results were "system too lean bank one"
>>>and "system too lean bank 2". What does that mean? They guy at
>>>autozone said it might be the O2 sensor. But left it at
>>>that...might... How many O2 sensors does my truck have???? And is it
>>>possible that the one(s) they replaced in July could have gone sour so
>>>soon? I really don't have the money or the patience at this time to
>>>keep messing around with this vehicle and if it weren't for the 4 more
>>>years I have to pay on it, I would trade it in in a heartbeat.
>>>Also, when I start the truck, it starts up fine most of the time but
>>>right after it starts it idles high for a second before calming
>>>down...so instead of going "vrooom"..it starts up like "vrooooOOOOM"
>>>It's almost as if the key were being held back too long regardless as
>>>to how soon you let go. There's one more problem....when it is cold
>>>out (which it's been getting down there in temprature as I am from
>>>central NY) sometimes it won't stay started. I had this problem when
>>>I first got the vehicle and they fixed something called an IAC
>>>component(?) and it was fine after that. What it seems to be doing is
>>>idling down to 1 on the RPMs then stalling out....(please, bear with
>>>me, I'm a girl and don't know much about cars other than where to put
>>>the gas and windshield fluid ) I'm realy quite fed up with this truck
>>>and am starting to feel like they tricked me into buying it because 1.
>>>I'm a girl and 2. they needed to get rid of it. Besides setting it on
>>>fire and pushing it off a cliff...any advice would be helpful. Thanks
>>>in advance...Jessie2blue
>>
>>