|
Re: CB power
XS11E wrote:
> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: > > >>XS11E wrote: >> >>>At least you're consistently wrong. > > >>There's drool on your chin, idiot. > > > You'd be wise to learn what you're talking about before posting. > > So far you've demonstrated complete ignorance of electonics, CB radio, > Jeeps and common courtesy. > > Please do reply and show us your ignorance in other subjects. Oh, please advise me. Here's some advice for you...read what was written before you comment on it. Anyone who says running power and ground leads from the radio directly to the battery is incorrect is a F-ing moron. tw |
Re: CB power
Frank_v7.0 wrote:
> twaldron wrote: > >> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >> >>> twaldron wrote: >>> >>>> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >>>> >>>>> twaldron wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> DougW wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 2. If not, then the black wire should be attached to ground, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but where? >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Use the frame bolt where the battery - attaches. There is >>>>>>>>>>>>> usually enough thread on that to put on another bolt. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Why bother? Attaching at the NEG(-) battery terminal performs >>>>>>>>>>>> the same function as running more lead to the block where the >>>>>>>>>>>> battery grounds. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Because Jeeps have had problems in the past with ground loops >>>>>>>>>>> causing CB noise. It might be worthwhile to consult with a >>>>>>>>>>> local CB shop it there's one available. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> If you are attaching at the battery, how do you get a ground >>>>>>>>>> loop? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Between the CB and the antenna. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Then your radio or antenna or both are improperly installed. Run >>>>>>>> both leads directly to the battery. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Not normally possible, read Bill Spiliotopoulos' post in this >>>>>>> thread. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> BTW, running both leads directly to the battery is also >>>>>>> incorrect, proper installation is to isolate the CB from anything >>>>>>> metal, isolate the antenna from anything metal, run the antenna >>>>>>> ground to the CB and both power and ground from the CB to the >>>>>>> battery. This eliminates ground loops but requires some >>>>>>> engineering as most antennas will ground through the mount most >>>>>>> CB mounts will ground to the body in a typical installation. In >>>>>>> almost all cars and trucks this works fine, in Jeeps (at least >>>>>>> the older Wagoneers and Cherokees) it seems to create noise, >>>>>>> don't know why? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I've never had any problems in any vehicle because I use a >>>>>>> portable CB with a magnetic antenna. The antenna grounds only to >>>>>>> the CB and the CB is powered by and grounded to the ligher >>>>>>> socket. It's worked well so far.... >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I have no idea WHAT you are talking about, and I don't agree with >>>>>> Bill S's post as far has how to mount a two-way radio. How is >>>>>> running both leads directly to the battery "not normally >>>>>> possible"??? It is the ONLY correct way to wire in a two way >>>>>> radio. You guys are posting misinformation. Please read the proper >>>>>> way to install a two-way radio before posting so Nathan can have a >>>>>> trouble free installation. BTW, powering a two-way radio through >>>>>> the cigaretter lighter port is the worst possible installation >>>>>> method available. >>>>>> >>>>>> tw >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> For a Ham rig or a commercial two way I agree, but a CB draws a lot >>>>> less power than those applications and the high end audio equipment >>>>> that you "hear" out on the street today. A lighter plug power >>>>> source for those high draw applications would be ridiculous. >>>>> >>>> >>>> Yes, they don't need as high a gauge of wire, but they certainly >>>> don't need the interference a cigarette lighter port will introduce. >>>> >>>> tw >>> >>> >>> No problem, high = heavy:-) Most "modern" quality CB's have excellent >>> internal filter circuits. In the "early" days, ie; 70's, engine >>> "noise" was the source of most interference. Resistor plugs and, as I >>> mentioned, decent built in noise filtering make the "additional" >>> amount of interference picked up through use of the lighter plug or >>> auxiliary power plug hard to quantify. Having said all that, it is >>> certainly not wrong to use a direct battery to CB connection as long >>> as it is properly fused with sufficient wire gauge. And one other >>> point in favor of using the lighter plug as a CB power source, if you >>> forget to turn the CB off it won't drain your battery overnight. >>> >> >> >> I didn't want anyone to confuse the "high" with a higher wire gauge >> number. While I can see the temptation to cut corners and just plug it >> in to the lighter socket, you're not _benefiting_ your setup's >> performance in any way, just being lazy. CBs are low quality >> transceivers and need all the help they can get. While most CB >> manufacturers do use simple noise filtration circuitry, it is still >> best to run directly to the clean power source and the was the OP's >> question. Why not do it right? >> >> Not all cig. sockets turn off with the key, but even using the ones >> that do, in order to use the radio, you have to turn the key to >> accessory. It's just as simple to train yourself to turn off the radio >> at it's own power switch. >> >> tw > > Ya got me! "just being lazy" "It's just as simple to train yourself to > turn off the radio at it's own power switch." LOL! For you and me and > perhaps most Jeep drivers, but human nature dictates a lot of dead > batteries. I learned my lesson the hard way. Sitting in a Navajo > County cruiser with a dead battery. Had to call for a jump on my > portable. I got out for lunch and left the "hard wired" radio on. :P Well, if you know you're cutting corners and you're OK with it, that's fine. The original question was how best to make the lead runs. I think it was DougW who posted the Priority Start gizmos. Might be a good option for you. ;) Having mobile radios as large as a 100w HF radio, I got in the habit of turning them off so they didn't attract attention. tw |
Re: CB power
Frank_v7.0 wrote:
> twaldron wrote: > >> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >> >>> twaldron wrote: >>> >>>> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >>>> >>>>> twaldron wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> DougW wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 2. If not, then the black wire should be attached to ground, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but where? >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Use the frame bolt where the battery - attaches. There is >>>>>>>>>>>>> usually enough thread on that to put on another bolt. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Why bother? Attaching at the NEG(-) battery terminal performs >>>>>>>>>>>> the same function as running more lead to the block where the >>>>>>>>>>>> battery grounds. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Because Jeeps have had problems in the past with ground loops >>>>>>>>>>> causing CB noise. It might be worthwhile to consult with a >>>>>>>>>>> local CB shop it there's one available. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> If you are attaching at the battery, how do you get a ground >>>>>>>>>> loop? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Between the CB and the antenna. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Then your radio or antenna or both are improperly installed. Run >>>>>>>> both leads directly to the battery. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Not normally possible, read Bill Spiliotopoulos' post in this >>>>>>> thread. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> BTW, running both leads directly to the battery is also >>>>>>> incorrect, proper installation is to isolate the CB from anything >>>>>>> metal, isolate the antenna from anything metal, run the antenna >>>>>>> ground to the CB and both power and ground from the CB to the >>>>>>> battery. This eliminates ground loops but requires some >>>>>>> engineering as most antennas will ground through the mount most >>>>>>> CB mounts will ground to the body in a typical installation. In >>>>>>> almost all cars and trucks this works fine, in Jeeps (at least >>>>>>> the older Wagoneers and Cherokees) it seems to create noise, >>>>>>> don't know why? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I've never had any problems in any vehicle because I use a >>>>>>> portable CB with a magnetic antenna. The antenna grounds only to >>>>>>> the CB and the CB is powered by and grounded to the ligher >>>>>>> socket. It's worked well so far.... >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I have no idea WHAT you are talking about, and I don't agree with >>>>>> Bill S's post as far has how to mount a two-way radio. How is >>>>>> running both leads directly to the battery "not normally >>>>>> possible"??? It is the ONLY correct way to wire in a two way >>>>>> radio. You guys are posting misinformation. Please read the proper >>>>>> way to install a two-way radio before posting so Nathan can have a >>>>>> trouble free installation. BTW, powering a two-way radio through >>>>>> the cigaretter lighter port is the worst possible installation >>>>>> method available. >>>>>> >>>>>> tw >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> For a Ham rig or a commercial two way I agree, but a CB draws a lot >>>>> less power than those applications and the high end audio equipment >>>>> that you "hear" out on the street today. A lighter plug power >>>>> source for those high draw applications would be ridiculous. >>>>> >>>> >>>> Yes, they don't need as high a gauge of wire, but they certainly >>>> don't need the interference a cigarette lighter port will introduce. >>>> >>>> tw >>> >>> >>> No problem, high = heavy:-) Most "modern" quality CB's have excellent >>> internal filter circuits. In the "early" days, ie; 70's, engine >>> "noise" was the source of most interference. Resistor plugs and, as I >>> mentioned, decent built in noise filtering make the "additional" >>> amount of interference picked up through use of the lighter plug or >>> auxiliary power plug hard to quantify. Having said all that, it is >>> certainly not wrong to use a direct battery to CB connection as long >>> as it is properly fused with sufficient wire gauge. And one other >>> point in favor of using the lighter plug as a CB power source, if you >>> forget to turn the CB off it won't drain your battery overnight. >>> >> >> >> I didn't want anyone to confuse the "high" with a higher wire gauge >> number. While I can see the temptation to cut corners and just plug it >> in to the lighter socket, you're not _benefiting_ your setup's >> performance in any way, just being lazy. CBs are low quality >> transceivers and need all the help they can get. While most CB >> manufacturers do use simple noise filtration circuitry, it is still >> best to run directly to the clean power source and the was the OP's >> question. Why not do it right? >> >> Not all cig. sockets turn off with the key, but even using the ones >> that do, in order to use the radio, you have to turn the key to >> accessory. It's just as simple to train yourself to turn off the radio >> at it's own power switch. >> >> tw > > Ya got me! "just being lazy" "It's just as simple to train yourself to > turn off the radio at it's own power switch." LOL! For you and me and > perhaps most Jeep drivers, but human nature dictates a lot of dead > batteries. I learned my lesson the hard way. Sitting in a Navajo > County cruiser with a dead battery. Had to call for a jump on my > portable. I got out for lunch and left the "hard wired" radio on. :P Well, if you know you're cutting corners and you're OK with it, that's fine. The original question was how best to make the lead runs. I think it was DougW who posted the Priority Start gizmos. Might be a good option for you. ;) Having mobile radios as large as a 100w HF radio, I got in the habit of turning them off so they didn't attract attention. tw |
Re: CB power
Frank_v7.0 wrote:
> twaldron wrote: > >> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >> >>> twaldron wrote: >>> >>>> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >>>> >>>>> twaldron wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> DougW wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 2. If not, then the black wire should be attached to ground, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but where? >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Use the frame bolt where the battery - attaches. There is >>>>>>>>>>>>> usually enough thread on that to put on another bolt. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Why bother? Attaching at the NEG(-) battery terminal performs >>>>>>>>>>>> the same function as running more lead to the block where the >>>>>>>>>>>> battery grounds. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Because Jeeps have had problems in the past with ground loops >>>>>>>>>>> causing CB noise. It might be worthwhile to consult with a >>>>>>>>>>> local CB shop it there's one available. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> If you are attaching at the battery, how do you get a ground >>>>>>>>>> loop? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Between the CB and the antenna. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Then your radio or antenna or both are improperly installed. Run >>>>>>>> both leads directly to the battery. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Not normally possible, read Bill Spiliotopoulos' post in this >>>>>>> thread. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> BTW, running both leads directly to the battery is also >>>>>>> incorrect, proper installation is to isolate the CB from anything >>>>>>> metal, isolate the antenna from anything metal, run the antenna >>>>>>> ground to the CB and both power and ground from the CB to the >>>>>>> battery. This eliminates ground loops but requires some >>>>>>> engineering as most antennas will ground through the mount most >>>>>>> CB mounts will ground to the body in a typical installation. In >>>>>>> almost all cars and trucks this works fine, in Jeeps (at least >>>>>>> the older Wagoneers and Cherokees) it seems to create noise, >>>>>>> don't know why? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I've never had any problems in any vehicle because I use a >>>>>>> portable CB with a magnetic antenna. The antenna grounds only to >>>>>>> the CB and the CB is powered by and grounded to the ligher >>>>>>> socket. It's worked well so far.... >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I have no idea WHAT you are talking about, and I don't agree with >>>>>> Bill S's post as far has how to mount a two-way radio. How is >>>>>> running both leads directly to the battery "not normally >>>>>> possible"??? It is the ONLY correct way to wire in a two way >>>>>> radio. You guys are posting misinformation. Please read the proper >>>>>> way to install a two-way radio before posting so Nathan can have a >>>>>> trouble free installation. BTW, powering a two-way radio through >>>>>> the cigaretter lighter port is the worst possible installation >>>>>> method available. >>>>>> >>>>>> tw >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> For a Ham rig or a commercial two way I agree, but a CB draws a lot >>>>> less power than those applications and the high end audio equipment >>>>> that you "hear" out on the street today. A lighter plug power >>>>> source for those high draw applications would be ridiculous. >>>>> >>>> >>>> Yes, they don't need as high a gauge of wire, but they certainly >>>> don't need the interference a cigarette lighter port will introduce. >>>> >>>> tw >>> >>> >>> No problem, high = heavy:-) Most "modern" quality CB's have excellent >>> internal filter circuits. In the "early" days, ie; 70's, engine >>> "noise" was the source of most interference. Resistor plugs and, as I >>> mentioned, decent built in noise filtering make the "additional" >>> amount of interference picked up through use of the lighter plug or >>> auxiliary power plug hard to quantify. Having said all that, it is >>> certainly not wrong to use a direct battery to CB connection as long >>> as it is properly fused with sufficient wire gauge. And one other >>> point in favor of using the lighter plug as a CB power source, if you >>> forget to turn the CB off it won't drain your battery overnight. >>> >> >> >> I didn't want anyone to confuse the "high" with a higher wire gauge >> number. While I can see the temptation to cut corners and just plug it >> in to the lighter socket, you're not _benefiting_ your setup's >> performance in any way, just being lazy. CBs are low quality >> transceivers and need all the help they can get. While most CB >> manufacturers do use simple noise filtration circuitry, it is still >> best to run directly to the clean power source and the was the OP's >> question. Why not do it right? >> >> Not all cig. sockets turn off with the key, but even using the ones >> that do, in order to use the radio, you have to turn the key to >> accessory. It's just as simple to train yourself to turn off the radio >> at it's own power switch. >> >> tw > > Ya got me! "just being lazy" "It's just as simple to train yourself to > turn off the radio at it's own power switch." LOL! For you and me and > perhaps most Jeep drivers, but human nature dictates a lot of dead > batteries. I learned my lesson the hard way. Sitting in a Navajo > County cruiser with a dead battery. Had to call for a jump on my > portable. I got out for lunch and left the "hard wired" radio on. :P Well, if you know you're cutting corners and you're OK with it, that's fine. The original question was how best to make the lead runs. I think it was DougW who posted the Priority Start gizmos. Might be a good option for you. ;) Having mobile radios as large as a 100w HF radio, I got in the habit of turning them off so they didn't attract attention. tw |
Re: CB power
Frank_v7.0 wrote:
> twaldron wrote: > >> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >> >>> twaldron wrote: >>> >>>> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >>>> >>>>> twaldron wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> XS11E wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> DougW wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 2. If not, then the black wire should be attached to ground, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but where? >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Use the frame bolt where the battery - attaches. There is >>>>>>>>>>>>> usually enough thread on that to put on another bolt. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Why bother? Attaching at the NEG(-) battery terminal performs >>>>>>>>>>>> the same function as running more lead to the block where the >>>>>>>>>>>> battery grounds. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Because Jeeps have had problems in the past with ground loops >>>>>>>>>>> causing CB noise. It might be worthwhile to consult with a >>>>>>>>>>> local CB shop it there's one available. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> If you are attaching at the battery, how do you get a ground >>>>>>>>>> loop? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Between the CB and the antenna. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Then your radio or antenna or both are improperly installed. Run >>>>>>>> both leads directly to the battery. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Not normally possible, read Bill Spiliotopoulos' post in this >>>>>>> thread. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> BTW, running both leads directly to the battery is also >>>>>>> incorrect, proper installation is to isolate the CB from anything >>>>>>> metal, isolate the antenna from anything metal, run the antenna >>>>>>> ground to the CB and both power and ground from the CB to the >>>>>>> battery. This eliminates ground loops but requires some >>>>>>> engineering as most antennas will ground through the mount most >>>>>>> CB mounts will ground to the body in a typical installation. In >>>>>>> almost all cars and trucks this works fine, in Jeeps (at least >>>>>>> the older Wagoneers and Cherokees) it seems to create noise, >>>>>>> don't know why? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I've never had any problems in any vehicle because I use a >>>>>>> portable CB with a magnetic antenna. The antenna grounds only to >>>>>>> the CB and the CB is powered by and grounded to the ligher >>>>>>> socket. It's worked well so far.... >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I have no idea WHAT you are talking about, and I don't agree with >>>>>> Bill S's post as far has how to mount a two-way radio. How is >>>>>> running both leads directly to the battery "not normally >>>>>> possible"??? It is the ONLY correct way to wire in a two way >>>>>> radio. You guys are posting misinformation. Please read the proper >>>>>> way to install a two-way radio before posting so Nathan can have a >>>>>> trouble free installation. BTW, powering a two-way radio through >>>>>> the cigaretter lighter port is the worst possible installation >>>>>> method available. >>>>>> >>>>>> tw >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> For a Ham rig or a commercial two way I agree, but a CB draws a lot >>>>> less power than those applications and the high end audio equipment >>>>> that you "hear" out on the street today. A lighter plug power >>>>> source for those high draw applications would be ridiculous. >>>>> >>>> >>>> Yes, they don't need as high a gauge of wire, but they certainly >>>> don't need the interference a cigarette lighter port will introduce. >>>> >>>> tw >>> >>> >>> No problem, high = heavy:-) Most "modern" quality CB's have excellent >>> internal filter circuits. In the "early" days, ie; 70's, engine >>> "noise" was the source of most interference. Resistor plugs and, as I >>> mentioned, decent built in noise filtering make the "additional" >>> amount of interference picked up through use of the lighter plug or >>> auxiliary power plug hard to quantify. Having said all that, it is >>> certainly not wrong to use a direct battery to CB connection as long >>> as it is properly fused with sufficient wire gauge. And one other >>> point in favor of using the lighter plug as a CB power source, if you >>> forget to turn the CB off it won't drain your battery overnight. >>> >> >> >> I didn't want anyone to confuse the "high" with a higher wire gauge >> number. While I can see the temptation to cut corners and just plug it >> in to the lighter socket, you're not _benefiting_ your setup's >> performance in any way, just being lazy. CBs are low quality >> transceivers and need all the help they can get. While most CB >> manufacturers do use simple noise filtration circuitry, it is still >> best to run directly to the clean power source and the was the OP's >> question. Why not do it right? >> >> Not all cig. sockets turn off with the key, but even using the ones >> that do, in order to use the radio, you have to turn the key to >> accessory. It's just as simple to train yourself to turn off the radio >> at it's own power switch. >> >> tw > > Ya got me! "just being lazy" "It's just as simple to train yourself to > turn off the radio at it's own power switch." LOL! For you and me and > perhaps most Jeep drivers, but human nature dictates a lot of dead > batteries. I learned my lesson the hard way. Sitting in a Navajo > County cruiser with a dead battery. Had to call for a jump on my > portable. I got out for lunch and left the "hard wired" radio on. :P Well, if you know you're cutting corners and you're OK with it, that's fine. The original question was how best to make the lead runs. I think it was DougW who posted the Priority Start gizmos. Might be a good option for you. ;) Having mobile radios as large as a 100w HF radio, I got in the habit of turning them off so they didn't attract attention. tw |
Re: CB power
Thanks for the GM docs, Mike...here's Ford's:
http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf Ford Motor Company vehicles are designed and tested for safe operation with properly installed and properly used land mobile/amateur radio communication equipment with up to 100 Watt transmitter power. Special design considerations are incorporated into all Ford vehicle electronic systems to provide immunity to radio frequency signals. To maintain compatibility with vehicle electronic systems, mobile two-way radio and telephone equipment must be installed properly by trained personnel, observing these general guidelines: Power connections should be made directly to the battery and fused as close to the battery as possible. Avoid using cigar lighter or “Power Point” receptacles as power sources for radio communication equipment. Antennas for two-way radios should be mounted on the roof or the rear area of the vehicle. Care should be used in mounting antennas with magnet bases, since magnets may affect the accuracy or operation of the compass on vehicles, if so equipped. The antenna cable should be high quality, fully shielded coaxial cable, and kept as short as practical. Avoid routing the antenna cable in parallel with vehicle wiring over long distances. Carefully match the antenna and cable to the radio to achieve a low Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) and to avoid RF currents on the antenna cable shield. tw |
Re: CB power
Thanks for the GM docs, Mike...here's Ford's:
http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf Ford Motor Company vehicles are designed and tested for safe operation with properly installed and properly used land mobile/amateur radio communication equipment with up to 100 Watt transmitter power. Special design considerations are incorporated into all Ford vehicle electronic systems to provide immunity to radio frequency signals. To maintain compatibility with vehicle electronic systems, mobile two-way radio and telephone equipment must be installed properly by trained personnel, observing these general guidelines: Power connections should be made directly to the battery and fused as close to the battery as possible. Avoid using cigar lighter or “Power Point” receptacles as power sources for radio communication equipment. Antennas for two-way radios should be mounted on the roof or the rear area of the vehicle. Care should be used in mounting antennas with magnet bases, since magnets may affect the accuracy or operation of the compass on vehicles, if so equipped. The antenna cable should be high quality, fully shielded coaxial cable, and kept as short as practical. Avoid routing the antenna cable in parallel with vehicle wiring over long distances. Carefully match the antenna and cable to the radio to achieve a low Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) and to avoid RF currents on the antenna cable shield. tw |
Re: CB power
Thanks for the GM docs, Mike...here's Ford's:
http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf Ford Motor Company vehicles are designed and tested for safe operation with properly installed and properly used land mobile/amateur radio communication equipment with up to 100 Watt transmitter power. Special design considerations are incorporated into all Ford vehicle electronic systems to provide immunity to radio frequency signals. To maintain compatibility with vehicle electronic systems, mobile two-way radio and telephone equipment must be installed properly by trained personnel, observing these general guidelines: Power connections should be made directly to the battery and fused as close to the battery as possible. Avoid using cigar lighter or “Power Point” receptacles as power sources for radio communication equipment. Antennas for two-way radios should be mounted on the roof or the rear area of the vehicle. Care should be used in mounting antennas with magnet bases, since magnets may affect the accuracy or operation of the compass on vehicles, if so equipped. The antenna cable should be high quality, fully shielded coaxial cable, and kept as short as practical. Avoid routing the antenna cable in parallel with vehicle wiring over long distances. Carefully match the antenna and cable to the radio to achieve a low Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) and to avoid RF currents on the antenna cable shield. tw |
Re: CB power
Thanks for the GM docs, Mike...here's Ford's:
http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf Ford Motor Company vehicles are designed and tested for safe operation with properly installed and properly used land mobile/amateur radio communication equipment with up to 100 Watt transmitter power. Special design considerations are incorporated into all Ford vehicle electronic systems to provide immunity to radio frequency signals. To maintain compatibility with vehicle electronic systems, mobile two-way radio and telephone equipment must be installed properly by trained personnel, observing these general guidelines: Power connections should be made directly to the battery and fused as close to the battery as possible. Avoid using cigar lighter or “Power Point” receptacles as power sources for radio communication equipment. Antennas for two-way radios should be mounted on the roof or the rear area of the vehicle. Care should be used in mounting antennas with magnet bases, since magnets may affect the accuracy or operation of the compass on vehicles, if so equipped. The antenna cable should be high quality, fully shielded coaxial cable, and kept as short as practical. Avoid routing the antenna cable in parallel with vehicle wiring over long distances. Carefully match the antenna and cable to the radio to achieve a low Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) and to avoid RF currents on the antenna cable shield. tw |
Re: CB power
twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote:
> XS11E wrote: >> You'd be wise to learn what you're talking about before posting. >> >> So far you've demonstrated complete ignorance of electonics, CB >> radio, Jeeps and common courtesy. >> >> Please do reply and show us your ignorance in other subjects. > Oh, please advise me. Here's some advice for you...read what was > written before you comment on it. Anyone who says running power > and ground leads from the radio directly to the battery is > incorrect is a F-ing moron. Nor did I say it was incorrect, sorry about your reading disability. Thanks for posting and showing us an additional area of your ignorance, will you do some more please? You're pretty entertaining.... -- XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html |
Re: CB power
twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote:
> XS11E wrote: >> You'd be wise to learn what you're talking about before posting. >> >> So far you've demonstrated complete ignorance of electonics, CB >> radio, Jeeps and common courtesy. >> >> Please do reply and show us your ignorance in other subjects. > Oh, please advise me. Here's some advice for you...read what was > written before you comment on it. Anyone who says running power > and ground leads from the radio directly to the battery is > incorrect is a F-ing moron. Nor did I say it was incorrect, sorry about your reading disability. Thanks for posting and showing us an additional area of your ignorance, will you do some more please? You're pretty entertaining.... -- XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html |
Re: CB power
twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote:
> XS11E wrote: >> You'd be wise to learn what you're talking about before posting. >> >> So far you've demonstrated complete ignorance of electonics, CB >> radio, Jeeps and common courtesy. >> >> Please do reply and show us your ignorance in other subjects. > Oh, please advise me. Here's some advice for you...read what was > written before you comment on it. Anyone who says running power > and ground leads from the radio directly to the battery is > incorrect is a F-ing moron. Nor did I say it was incorrect, sorry about your reading disability. Thanks for posting and showing us an additional area of your ignorance, will you do some more please? You're pretty entertaining.... -- XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html |
Re: CB power
twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote:
> XS11E wrote: >> You'd be wise to learn what you're talking about before posting. >> >> So far you've demonstrated complete ignorance of electonics, CB >> radio, Jeeps and common courtesy. >> >> Please do reply and show us your ignorance in other subjects. > Oh, please advise me. Here's some advice for you...read what was > written before you comment on it. Anyone who says running power > and ground leads from the radio directly to the battery is > incorrect is a F-ing moron. Nor did I say it was incorrect, sorry about your reading disability. Thanks for posting and showing us an additional area of your ignorance, will you do some more please? You're pretty entertaining.... -- XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html |
Re: CB power
XS11E wrote:
> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: > > >>XS11E wrote: > > >>>You'd be wise to learn what you're talking about before posting. >>> >>>So far you've demonstrated complete ignorance of electonics, CB >>>radio, Jeeps and common courtesy. >>> >>>Please do reply and show us your ignorance in other subjects. > > > >>Oh, please advise me. Here's some advice for you...read what was >>written before you comment on it. Anyone who says running power >>and ground leads from the radio directly to the battery is >>incorrect is a F-ing moron. > > > Nor did I say it was incorrect, sorry about your reading disability. > > Thanks for posting and showing us an additional area of your ignorance, > will you do some more please? You're pretty entertaining.... > > Just because I understand you are retarded, I'll post one more time. The only thing I've talked about in this whole thread is that you run the leads directly to the battery. You, on the other hand, cannot comprehend that small detail. Shame, because you really are boring me. tw |
Re: CB power
XS11E wrote:
> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: > > >>XS11E wrote: > > >>>You'd be wise to learn what you're talking about before posting. >>> >>>So far you've demonstrated complete ignorance of electonics, CB >>>radio, Jeeps and common courtesy. >>> >>>Please do reply and show us your ignorance in other subjects. > > > >>Oh, please advise me. Here's some advice for you...read what was >>written before you comment on it. Anyone who says running power >>and ground leads from the radio directly to the battery is >>incorrect is a F-ing moron. > > > Nor did I say it was incorrect, sorry about your reading disability. > > Thanks for posting and showing us an additional area of your ignorance, > will you do some more please? You're pretty entertaining.... > > Just because I understand you are retarded, I'll post one more time. The only thing I've talked about in this whole thread is that you run the leads directly to the battery. You, on the other hand, cannot comprehend that small detail. Shame, because you really are boring me. tw |
Re: CB power
XS11E wrote:
> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: > > >>XS11E wrote: > > >>>You'd be wise to learn what you're talking about before posting. >>> >>>So far you've demonstrated complete ignorance of electonics, CB >>>radio, Jeeps and common courtesy. >>> >>>Please do reply and show us your ignorance in other subjects. > > > >>Oh, please advise me. Here's some advice for you...read what was >>written before you comment on it. Anyone who says running power >>and ground leads from the radio directly to the battery is >>incorrect is a F-ing moron. > > > Nor did I say it was incorrect, sorry about your reading disability. > > Thanks for posting and showing us an additional area of your ignorance, > will you do some more please? You're pretty entertaining.... > > Just because I understand you are retarded, I'll post one more time. The only thing I've talked about in this whole thread is that you run the leads directly to the battery. You, on the other hand, cannot comprehend that small detail. Shame, because you really are boring me. tw |
Re: CB power
XS11E wrote:
> twaldron <dude@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote: > > >>XS11E wrote: > > >>>You'd be wise to learn what you're talking about before posting. >>> >>>So far you've demonstrated complete ignorance of electonics, CB >>>radio, Jeeps and common courtesy. >>> >>>Please do reply and show us your ignorance in other subjects. > > > >>Oh, please advise me. Here's some advice for you...read what was >>written before you comment on it. Anyone who says running power >>and ground leads from the radio directly to the battery is >>incorrect is a F-ing moron. > > > Nor did I say it was incorrect, sorry about your reading disability. > > Thanks for posting and showing us an additional area of your ignorance, > will you do some more please? You're pretty entertaining.... > > Just because I understand you are retarded, I'll post one more time. The only thing I've talked about in this whole thread is that you run the leads directly to the battery. You, on the other hand, cannot comprehend that small detail. Shame, because you really are boring me. tw |
Re: CB power
Sorry but you got it wrong...
Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". Where do you buy them? XS11E wrote: > jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: > > >>Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >>Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. > > > And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to > avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, > particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very > difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees > leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. > > Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is > surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. > > > |
Re: CB power
Sorry but you got it wrong...
Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". Where do you buy them? XS11E wrote: > jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: > > >>Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >>Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. > > > And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to > avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, > particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very > difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees > leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. > > Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is > surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. > > > |
Re: CB power
Sorry but you got it wrong...
Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". Where do you buy them? XS11E wrote: > jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: > > >>Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >>Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. > > > And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to > avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, > particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very > difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees > leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. > > Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is > surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. > > > |
Re: CB power
Sorry but you got it wrong...
Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". Where do you buy them? XS11E wrote: > jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: > > >>Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >>Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. > > > And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to > avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, > particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very > difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees > leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. > > Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is > surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. > > > |
Re: CB power
Here's one from Chrysler
http://www.neons.org/neontsb/TSB/08/081698.htm twaldron wrote: > Thanks for the GM docs, Mike...here's Ford's: > > http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf > > Ford Motor Company vehicles are designed and tested for safe operation > with properly installed and properly used land mobile/amateur radio > communication equipment with up to 100 Watt transmitter power. > > Special design considerations are incorporated into all Ford vehicle > electronic systems to provide immunity to radio frequency signals. To > maintain compatibility with vehicle electronic systems, mobile > two-way radio and telephone equipment must be installed properly by > trained personnel, observing these general guidelines: > > Power connections should be made directly to the battery and fused as > close to the battery as possible. Avoid using cigar lighter or “Power > Point” receptacles as power sources for radio communication equipment. > > Antennas for two-way radios should be mounted on the roof or the rear > area of the vehicle. Care should be used in mounting antennas with > magnet bases, since magnets may affect the accuracy or operation of the > compass on vehicles, if so equipped. > > The antenna cable should be high quality, fully shielded coaxial cable, > and kept as short as practical. Avoid routing the antenna cable in > parallel with vehicle wiring over long distances. > > Carefully match the antenna and cable to the radio to achieve a low > Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) and to avoid RF currents on the antenna cable > shield. > > tw |
Re: CB power
Here's one from Chrysler
http://www.neons.org/neontsb/TSB/08/081698.htm twaldron wrote: > Thanks for the GM docs, Mike...here's Ford's: > > http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf > > Ford Motor Company vehicles are designed and tested for safe operation > with properly installed and properly used land mobile/amateur radio > communication equipment with up to 100 Watt transmitter power. > > Special design considerations are incorporated into all Ford vehicle > electronic systems to provide immunity to radio frequency signals. To > maintain compatibility with vehicle electronic systems, mobile > two-way radio and telephone equipment must be installed properly by > trained personnel, observing these general guidelines: > > Power connections should be made directly to the battery and fused as > close to the battery as possible. Avoid using cigar lighter or “Power > Point” receptacles as power sources for radio communication equipment. > > Antennas for two-way radios should be mounted on the roof or the rear > area of the vehicle. Care should be used in mounting antennas with > magnet bases, since magnets may affect the accuracy or operation of the > compass on vehicles, if so equipped. > > The antenna cable should be high quality, fully shielded coaxial cable, > and kept as short as practical. Avoid routing the antenna cable in > parallel with vehicle wiring over long distances. > > Carefully match the antenna and cable to the radio to achieve a low > Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) and to avoid RF currents on the antenna cable > shield. > > tw |
Re: CB power
Here's one from Chrysler
http://www.neons.org/neontsb/TSB/08/081698.htm twaldron wrote: > Thanks for the GM docs, Mike...here's Ford's: > > http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf > > Ford Motor Company vehicles are designed and tested for safe operation > with properly installed and properly used land mobile/amateur radio > communication equipment with up to 100 Watt transmitter power. > > Special design considerations are incorporated into all Ford vehicle > electronic systems to provide immunity to radio frequency signals. To > maintain compatibility with vehicle electronic systems, mobile > two-way radio and telephone equipment must be installed properly by > trained personnel, observing these general guidelines: > > Power connections should be made directly to the battery and fused as > close to the battery as possible. Avoid using cigar lighter or “Power > Point” receptacles as power sources for radio communication equipment. > > Antennas for two-way radios should be mounted on the roof or the rear > area of the vehicle. Care should be used in mounting antennas with > magnet bases, since magnets may affect the accuracy or operation of the > compass on vehicles, if so equipped. > > The antenna cable should be high quality, fully shielded coaxial cable, > and kept as short as practical. Avoid routing the antenna cable in > parallel with vehicle wiring over long distances. > > Carefully match the antenna and cable to the radio to achieve a low > Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) and to avoid RF currents on the antenna cable > shield. > > tw |
Re: CB power
Here's one from Chrysler
http://www.neons.org/neontsb/TSB/08/081698.htm twaldron wrote: > Thanks for the GM docs, Mike...here's Ford's: > > http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf > > Ford Motor Company vehicles are designed and tested for safe operation > with properly installed and properly used land mobile/amateur radio > communication equipment with up to 100 Watt transmitter power. > > Special design considerations are incorporated into all Ford vehicle > electronic systems to provide immunity to radio frequency signals. To > maintain compatibility with vehicle electronic systems, mobile > two-way radio and telephone equipment must be installed properly by > trained personnel, observing these general guidelines: > > Power connections should be made directly to the battery and fused as > close to the battery as possible. Avoid using cigar lighter or “Power > Point” receptacles as power sources for radio communication equipment. > > Antennas for two-way radios should be mounted on the roof or the rear > area of the vehicle. Care should be used in mounting antennas with > magnet bases, since magnets may affect the accuracy or operation of the > compass on vehicles, if so equipped. > > The antenna cable should be high quality, fully shielded coaxial cable, > and kept as short as practical. Avoid routing the antenna cable in > parallel with vehicle wiring over long distances. > > Carefully match the antenna and cable to the radio to achieve a low > Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) and to avoid RF currents on the antenna cable > shield. > > tw |
Re: CB power
This guy has no clue what the difference between a ground plane and an
electrical ground is. You're beating your head. "No ground plane" type antennas are the absolute last resort on a vehicle and should never be used on a Jeep with a metal body...Fiberglass tubs, a corvette, or a fiberglass boat. tw FrankW wrote: > Sorry but you got it wrong... > Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types > The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body > (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. > Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". > Where do you buy them? > > > > > > XS11E wrote: > >> jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: >> >> >>> Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >>> Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. >> >> >> >> And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to >> avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, >> particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very >> difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees >> leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. >> >> Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is >> surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. >> >> >> > |
Re: CB power
This guy has no clue what the difference between a ground plane and an
electrical ground is. You're beating your head. "No ground plane" type antennas are the absolute last resort on a vehicle and should never be used on a Jeep with a metal body...Fiberglass tubs, a corvette, or a fiberglass boat. tw FrankW wrote: > Sorry but you got it wrong... > Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types > The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body > (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. > Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". > Where do you buy them? > > > > > > XS11E wrote: > >> jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: >> >> >>> Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >>> Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. >> >> >> >> And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to >> avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, >> particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very >> difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees >> leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. >> >> Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is >> surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. >> >> >> > |
Re: CB power
This guy has no clue what the difference between a ground plane and an
electrical ground is. You're beating your head. "No ground plane" type antennas are the absolute last resort on a vehicle and should never be used on a Jeep with a metal body...Fiberglass tubs, a corvette, or a fiberglass boat. tw FrankW wrote: > Sorry but you got it wrong... > Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types > The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body > (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. > Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". > Where do you buy them? > > > > > > XS11E wrote: > >> jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: >> >> >>> Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >>> Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. >> >> >> >> And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to >> avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, >> particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very >> difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees >> leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. >> >> Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is >> surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. >> >> >> > |
Re: CB power
This guy has no clue what the difference between a ground plane and an
electrical ground is. You're beating your head. "No ground plane" type antennas are the absolute last resort on a vehicle and should never be used on a Jeep with a metal body...Fiberglass tubs, a corvette, or a fiberglass boat. tw FrankW wrote: > Sorry but you got it wrong... > Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types > The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body > (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. > Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". > Where do you buy them? > > > > > > XS11E wrote: > >> jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: >> >> >>> Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >>> Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. >> >> >> >> And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to >> avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, >> particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very >> difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees >> leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. >> >> Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is >> surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. >> >> >> > |
Re: CB power
XS11E wrote:
> jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: > >> Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >> Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. > > And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to > avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, > particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very > difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees > leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. > > Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is > surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. > > > If you use the vehicle chassis as a ground in a new GM vehicle, you will void the warranty for 'all' on board electronics of the vehicle. This includes things like the ABS controller, ignition, etc... You need to isolate transmitters these days. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: CB power
XS11E wrote:
> jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: > >> Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >> Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. > > And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to > avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, > particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very > difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees > leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. > > Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is > surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. > > > If you use the vehicle chassis as a ground in a new GM vehicle, you will void the warranty for 'all' on board electronics of the vehicle. This includes things like the ABS controller, ignition, etc... You need to isolate transmitters these days. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: CB power
XS11E wrote:
> jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: > >> Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >> Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. > > And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to > avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, > particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very > difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees > leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. > > Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is > surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. > > > If you use the vehicle chassis as a ground in a new GM vehicle, you will void the warranty for 'all' on board electronics of the vehicle. This includes things like the ABS controller, ignition, etc... You need to isolate transmitters these days. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: CB power
XS11E wrote:
> jeff <jalowe44.invalid@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote: > >> Any chassis ground is as effective as a separate ground lead. >> Metal to metal anywhere on a jeep should be less than an ohm. > > And that's EXACTLY why one isolates the antenna and CB in a Jeep to > avoid ground loops. Jeeps are notorious for not having good grounds, > particularly back in the days when CBs were more common. It was very > difficult to get a good noise free signal in Wagoneers and Cherokees > leading to the development of isolated mountings to avoid ground loops. > > Grounding the antenna to the body (as most installations do) is > surprisingly unsuccessful when the body grounds are rusted away. > > > If you use the vehicle chassis as a ground in a new GM vehicle, you will void the warranty for 'all' on board electronics of the vehicle. This includes things like the ABS controller, ignition, etc... You need to isolate transmitters these days. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: CB power
FrankW wrote:
> Sorry but you got it wrong... > Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types > The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body > (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. > Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". > Where do you buy them? > Everywhere Frank. The mag mounts are totally isolated 'electrically' but require a 3' circle of metal under them for the best 'reflective' ground plane. The vertical clamp on ones have a nylon insert where the stick meets the metal bracket if you look close. These also need a 'reflective' ground plane. A 'reflective' ground plane is an area for the signal to bounce off of increasing the range of the antenna. This is 'not' an 'electrical' ground. I use a trucker's mirror mount on my 'glass bodied CJ7 designed for no or little 'ground plane' and get excellent reception with an old Cobra 23. I have had 2 way conversations from Toronto Canada to Marthas Vineyard on the US east coast and pick up the Mississippi river truckers all the time. I wheel up on the Canadian Shield south of James Bay and can 'receive only' a gent on British Columbia's Sunshine Coast on the Pacific Ocean regularly from one area. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: CB power
FrankW wrote:
> Sorry but you got it wrong... > Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types > The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body > (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. > Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". > Where do you buy them? > Everywhere Frank. The mag mounts are totally isolated 'electrically' but require a 3' circle of metal under them for the best 'reflective' ground plane. The vertical clamp on ones have a nylon insert where the stick meets the metal bracket if you look close. These also need a 'reflective' ground plane. A 'reflective' ground plane is an area for the signal to bounce off of increasing the range of the antenna. This is 'not' an 'electrical' ground. I use a trucker's mirror mount on my 'glass bodied CJ7 designed for no or little 'ground plane' and get excellent reception with an old Cobra 23. I have had 2 way conversations from Toronto Canada to Marthas Vineyard on the US east coast and pick up the Mississippi river truckers all the time. I wheel up on the Canadian Shield south of James Bay and can 'receive only' a gent on British Columbia's Sunshine Coast on the Pacific Ocean regularly from one area. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: CB power
FrankW wrote:
> Sorry but you got it wrong... > Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types > The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body > (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. > Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". > Where do you buy them? > Everywhere Frank. The mag mounts are totally isolated 'electrically' but require a 3' circle of metal under them for the best 'reflective' ground plane. The vertical clamp on ones have a nylon insert where the stick meets the metal bracket if you look close. These also need a 'reflective' ground plane. A 'reflective' ground plane is an area for the signal to bounce off of increasing the range of the antenna. This is 'not' an 'electrical' ground. I use a trucker's mirror mount on my 'glass bodied CJ7 designed for no or little 'ground plane' and get excellent reception with an old Cobra 23. I have had 2 way conversations from Toronto Canada to Marthas Vineyard on the US east coast and pick up the Mississippi river truckers all the time. I wheel up on the Canadian Shield south of James Bay and can 'receive only' a gent on British Columbia's Sunshine Coast on the Pacific Ocean regularly from one area. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: CB power
FrankW wrote:
> Sorry but you got it wrong... > Unless the antenna is one of those "no-ground plane" types > The antenna base MUST be grounded. The vehicle body > (otherwise known as the ground plane) is part of the antenna. > Please show me an example of a "isolated mounting". > Where do you buy them? > Everywhere Frank. The mag mounts are totally isolated 'electrically' but require a 3' circle of metal under them for the best 'reflective' ground plane. The vertical clamp on ones have a nylon insert where the stick meets the metal bracket if you look close. These also need a 'reflective' ground plane. A 'reflective' ground plane is an area for the signal to bounce off of increasing the range of the antenna. This is 'not' an 'electrical' ground. I use a trucker's mirror mount on my 'glass bodied CJ7 designed for no or little 'ground plane' and get excellent reception with an old Cobra 23. I have had 2 way conversations from Toronto Canada to Marthas Vineyard on the US east coast and pick up the Mississippi river truckers all the time. I wheel up on the Canadian Shield south of James Bay and can 'receive only' a gent on British Columbia's Sunshine Coast on the Pacific Ocean regularly from one area. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: CB power
A 'ground plane' is a reflective area for amplifying the signal.
An 'electrical' ground is a power path. The 'only' thing they have in common is the word 'ground', nothing else. If you use an electrical ground for the transmitter's ground plane, you will void the vehicle's warranty for all things electronic according to all the manufacturers I have dealt with while installing and servicing transmitters for 9 years. Here is a link to the GM book and others posted links to the Ford and Chrysler books. http://service.gm.com/techlineinfo/radio.html http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf http://www.neons.org/neontsb/TSB/08/081698.htm When in doubt, RTFM eh. OK, so I just did and WOW, the person who wrote the Neon one also has the electrical and reflective grounds mixed up in his head but at least he refers to the TSB which is correct. 3rd party websites are only as good as the person typing the garbage in... GIGO eh. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) L. Ron Waddle wrote: > Nathan Otis wrote: >> >> Hey fellas. I'm wiring a new CB tomorrow and I want to do it right. I >> can't find the exact answer I'm looking for on the All Seeing Eye, so >> here I am. >> >> When wiring power, I understand it's best to go to the source >> (battery). What I don't know is... >> >> 1. Should BOTH the red AND black wire be connected to the battery @ >> pos and neg terminals respectively? >> >> 2. If not, then the black wire should be attached to ground, but where? >> >> 2a. Should I ground in the engine compartment or... >> >> 2b. Is it best to make the ground wire as short as possible (i.e., >> shorten the black wire to around a foot or two and ground in the cab)? > > Since you are getting contradictory information, here is what I have > gathered on the subject: > > 1. Power: Go straight to the battery. > 2. Ground: > The following are grounded on the typical radio: > a) power ground > b) antenna wire at radio (ground sheath) > c) antenna wire at antenna (ground sheath) > > You want to prevent ground loops as much as possible. Thus the > correct answer is that whatever you're attaching your ground to on the > antenna end (usually a metal antenna mount bolted to your bumper or > fender) should be what you attach the ground to on the CB end. Since the > antenna is generally bolted to the body (or has a low-ohm AC path to > ground through the magnetic mount attached to the body), that, then, is > what you should attach your CB ground to. > > > In short, the best ground is to attach your CB ground to one of the > sheet metal screws that you use to attach your CB to the body of the > Jeep. If you are not attaching the CB to the body of the Jeep, the > ground should instead be attached to the body as close to the CB as > possible. The goal is to provide a good ground path between the CB > ground and the antenna ground for use as a ground plane without worrying > about whether there is enough corrosion on the cable that grounds the > body to the battery to affect its impedence and thus cause it to serve > as an extension of the antenna (a.k.a. "ground loop"). > > Note that there are antenna setups which do not require a ground plane. > These use a fixed-length cable with a specified impedence and an > insulated ungrounded antenna. These generally, however, provide a poorer > reception on any metal vehicle that has sufficient steel for a proper > ground plane. Short of attaching a radial-element base station antenna > to your Jeep (which uses the radial elements as the ground plane, but > it'd make your Jeep kinda tall!), you cannot get a good ground plane > with a "groundplane-free" mobile setup. My handi-talkie CB with the > mini-whip does not get anywhere near as good of reception as my properly > grounded Firestick antenna, even if I attach the auxiliary antenna and > place it on top of my Jeep so it's as high as the Firestick on the back > of my Jeep. And this is despite the fact that the actual guts of this > handi-talkie are absolutely identical to the guts of my > permanently-mounted CB (both are Cobra designs and utilize the exact > same circuit board internally, all that differs is the surrounding > packaging, one is an all-in-mike design with a power/antenna box under > the dash and the other is a handi-talky with the power and antenna as > part of the package). The ground plane of the Jeep thus empirically has > proven to be quite a bit more effective at receiving signals than the > ground-plane-less approach, and you shouldn't even think about a > ground-plane-less approach for your antenna setup. > > -Elron |
Re: CB power
A 'ground plane' is a reflective area for amplifying the signal.
An 'electrical' ground is a power path. The 'only' thing they have in common is the word 'ground', nothing else. If you use an electrical ground for the transmitter's ground plane, you will void the vehicle's warranty for all things electronic according to all the manufacturers I have dealt with while installing and servicing transmitters for 9 years. Here is a link to the GM book and others posted links to the Ford and Chrysler books. http://service.gm.com/techlineinfo/radio.html http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf http://www.neons.org/neontsb/TSB/08/081698.htm When in doubt, RTFM eh. OK, so I just did and WOW, the person who wrote the Neon one also has the electrical and reflective grounds mixed up in his head but at least he refers to the TSB which is correct. 3rd party websites are only as good as the person typing the garbage in... GIGO eh. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) L. Ron Waddle wrote: > Nathan Otis wrote: >> >> Hey fellas. I'm wiring a new CB tomorrow and I want to do it right. I >> can't find the exact answer I'm looking for on the All Seeing Eye, so >> here I am. >> >> When wiring power, I understand it's best to go to the source >> (battery). What I don't know is... >> >> 1. Should BOTH the red AND black wire be connected to the battery @ >> pos and neg terminals respectively? >> >> 2. If not, then the black wire should be attached to ground, but where? >> >> 2a. Should I ground in the engine compartment or... >> >> 2b. Is it best to make the ground wire as short as possible (i.e., >> shorten the black wire to around a foot or two and ground in the cab)? > > Since you are getting contradictory information, here is what I have > gathered on the subject: > > 1. Power: Go straight to the battery. > 2. Ground: > The following are grounded on the typical radio: > a) power ground > b) antenna wire at radio (ground sheath) > c) antenna wire at antenna (ground sheath) > > You want to prevent ground loops as much as possible. Thus the > correct answer is that whatever you're attaching your ground to on the > antenna end (usually a metal antenna mount bolted to your bumper or > fender) should be what you attach the ground to on the CB end. Since the > antenna is generally bolted to the body (or has a low-ohm AC path to > ground through the magnetic mount attached to the body), that, then, is > what you should attach your CB ground to. > > > In short, the best ground is to attach your CB ground to one of the > sheet metal screws that you use to attach your CB to the body of the > Jeep. If you are not attaching the CB to the body of the Jeep, the > ground should instead be attached to the body as close to the CB as > possible. The goal is to provide a good ground path between the CB > ground and the antenna ground for use as a ground plane without worrying > about whether there is enough corrosion on the cable that grounds the > body to the battery to affect its impedence and thus cause it to serve > as an extension of the antenna (a.k.a. "ground loop"). > > Note that there are antenna setups which do not require a ground plane. > These use a fixed-length cable with a specified impedence and an > insulated ungrounded antenna. These generally, however, provide a poorer > reception on any metal vehicle that has sufficient steel for a proper > ground plane. Short of attaching a radial-element base station antenna > to your Jeep (which uses the radial elements as the ground plane, but > it'd make your Jeep kinda tall!), you cannot get a good ground plane > with a "groundplane-free" mobile setup. My handi-talkie CB with the > mini-whip does not get anywhere near as good of reception as my properly > grounded Firestick antenna, even if I attach the auxiliary antenna and > place it on top of my Jeep so it's as high as the Firestick on the back > of my Jeep. And this is despite the fact that the actual guts of this > handi-talkie are absolutely identical to the guts of my > permanently-mounted CB (both are Cobra designs and utilize the exact > same circuit board internally, all that differs is the surrounding > packaging, one is an all-in-mike design with a power/antenna box under > the dash and the other is a handi-talky with the power and antenna as > part of the package). The ground plane of the Jeep thus empirically has > proven to be quite a bit more effective at receiving signals than the > ground-plane-less approach, and you shouldn't even think about a > ground-plane-less approach for your antenna setup. > > -Elron |
Re: CB power
A 'ground plane' is a reflective area for amplifying the signal.
An 'electrical' ground is a power path. The 'only' thing they have in common is the word 'ground', nothing else. If you use an electrical ground for the transmitter's ground plane, you will void the vehicle's warranty for all things electronic according to all the manufacturers I have dealt with while installing and servicing transmitters for 9 years. Here is a link to the GM book and others posted links to the Ford and Chrysler books. http://service.gm.com/techlineinfo/radio.html http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download...adio_Guide.pdf http://www.neons.org/neontsb/TSB/08/081698.htm When in doubt, RTFM eh. OK, so I just did and WOW, the person who wrote the Neon one also has the electrical and reflective grounds mixed up in his head but at least he refers to the TSB which is correct. 3rd party websites are only as good as the person typing the garbage in... GIGO eh. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) L. Ron Waddle wrote: > Nathan Otis wrote: >> >> Hey fellas. I'm wiring a new CB tomorrow and I want to do it right. I >> can't find the exact answer I'm looking for on the All Seeing Eye, so >> here I am. >> >> When wiring power, I understand it's best to go to the source >> (battery). What I don't know is... >> >> 1. Should BOTH the red AND black wire be connected to the battery @ >> pos and neg terminals respectively? >> >> 2. If not, then the black wire should be attached to ground, but where? >> >> 2a. Should I ground in the engine compartment or... >> >> 2b. Is it best to make the ground wire as short as possible (i.e., >> shorten the black wire to around a foot or two and ground in the cab)? > > Since you are getting contradictory information, here is what I have > gathered on the subject: > > 1. Power: Go straight to the battery. > 2. Ground: > The following are grounded on the typical radio: > a) power ground > b) antenna wire at radio (ground sheath) > c) antenna wire at antenna (ground sheath) > > You want to prevent ground loops as much as possible. Thus the > correct answer is that whatever you're attaching your ground to on the > antenna end (usually a metal antenna mount bolted to your bumper or > fender) should be what you attach the ground to on the CB end. Since the > antenna is generally bolted to the body (or has a low-ohm AC path to > ground through the magnetic mount attached to the body), that, then, is > what you should attach your CB ground to. > > > In short, the best ground is to attach your CB ground to one of the > sheet metal screws that you use to attach your CB to the body of the > Jeep. If you are not attaching the CB to the body of the Jeep, the > ground should instead be attached to the body as close to the CB as > possible. The goal is to provide a good ground path between the CB > ground and the antenna ground for use as a ground plane without worrying > about whether there is enough corrosion on the cable that grounds the > body to the battery to affect its impedence and thus cause it to serve > as an extension of the antenna (a.k.a. "ground loop"). > > Note that there are antenna setups which do not require a ground plane. > These use a fixed-length cable with a specified impedence and an > insulated ungrounded antenna. These generally, however, provide a poorer > reception on any metal vehicle that has sufficient steel for a proper > ground plane. Short of attaching a radial-element base station antenna > to your Jeep (which uses the radial elements as the ground plane, but > it'd make your Jeep kinda tall!), you cannot get a good ground plane > with a "groundplane-free" mobile setup. My handi-talkie CB with the > mini-whip does not get anywhere near as good of reception as my properly > grounded Firestick antenna, even if I attach the auxiliary antenna and > place it on top of my Jeep so it's as high as the Firestick on the back > of my Jeep. And this is despite the fact that the actual guts of this > handi-talkie are absolutely identical to the guts of my > permanently-mounted CB (both are Cobra designs and utilize the exact > same circuit board internally, all that differs is the surrounding > packaging, one is an all-in-mike design with a power/antenna box under > the dash and the other is a handi-talky with the power and antenna as > part of the package). The ground plane of the Jeep thus empirically has > proven to be quite a bit more effective at receiving signals than the > ground-plane-less approach, and you shouldn't even think about a > ground-plane-less approach for your antenna setup. > > -Elron |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:23 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands