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busted header bolt
95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions?
thanks |
Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:33:36 -0700, j <321bfd@excite.com> wrote:
>95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? > > >thanks Get a Cobalt bit (not high speed steel) and drill center out and try a easy out. It that fails, drill hole larger and retap threads. Note, you want a Cobalt bit because not only will they cut it good (far better than steel bits), they are also harder to break by accident. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:33:36 -0700, j <321bfd@excite.com> wrote:
>95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? > > >thanks Get a Cobalt bit (not high speed steel) and drill center out and try a easy out. It that fails, drill hole larger and retap threads. Note, you want a Cobalt bit because not only will they cut it good (far better than steel bits), they are also harder to break by accident. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:33:36 -0700, j <321bfd@excite.com> wrote:
>95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? > > >thanks Get a Cobalt bit (not high speed steel) and drill center out and try a easy out. It that fails, drill hole larger and retap threads. Note, you want a Cobalt bit because not only will they cut it good (far better than steel bits), they are also harder to break by accident. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:33:36 -0700, j <321bfd@excite.com> wrote:
>95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? > > >thanks Get a Cobalt bit (not high speed steel) and drill center out and try a easy out. It that fails, drill hole larger and retap threads. Note, you want a Cobalt bit because not only will they cut it good (far better than steel bits), they are also harder to break by accident. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: busted header bolt
j wrote:
> 95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? > > > thanks > What is it flush with? The head? If so I have heard of folks putting a nut there and welding it in the center of the nut onto the stub if there is even just a little showing, then using that. I have heard of and seen folks use a fire wrench (cutting torch) and blow the sucker out with that. It seems to work. I have heard left hand drill bits can work. Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used or heard of their use. 'I' can drill out 99% of the ones I go after without damaging threads much if any. Many years of Practice from living in the rust belt helps there. :-( I use a small bit and drill a pilot hole offset from the center of the bolt. I then use a bit that will fit from this pilot 'just' to the edge of the threads and drill. This leaves a crescent moon shape of the bolt that can be backed out with a screwdriver or hammer and center punch. Good Luck! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: busted header bolt
j wrote:
> 95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? > > > thanks > What is it flush with? The head? If so I have heard of folks putting a nut there and welding it in the center of the nut onto the stub if there is even just a little showing, then using that. I have heard of and seen folks use a fire wrench (cutting torch) and blow the sucker out with that. It seems to work. I have heard left hand drill bits can work. Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used or heard of their use. 'I' can drill out 99% of the ones I go after without damaging threads much if any. Many years of Practice from living in the rust belt helps there. :-( I use a small bit and drill a pilot hole offset from the center of the bolt. I then use a bit that will fit from this pilot 'just' to the edge of the threads and drill. This leaves a crescent moon shape of the bolt that can be backed out with a screwdriver or hammer and center punch. Good Luck! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: busted header bolt
j wrote:
> 95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? > > > thanks > What is it flush with? The head? If so I have heard of folks putting a nut there and welding it in the center of the nut onto the stub if there is even just a little showing, then using that. I have heard of and seen folks use a fire wrench (cutting torch) and blow the sucker out with that. It seems to work. I have heard left hand drill bits can work. Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used or heard of their use. 'I' can drill out 99% of the ones I go after without damaging threads much if any. Many years of Practice from living in the rust belt helps there. :-( I use a small bit and drill a pilot hole offset from the center of the bolt. I then use a bit that will fit from this pilot 'just' to the edge of the threads and drill. This leaves a crescent moon shape of the bolt that can be backed out with a screwdriver or hammer and center punch. Good Luck! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: busted header bolt
j wrote:
> 95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? > > > thanks > What is it flush with? The head? If so I have heard of folks putting a nut there and welding it in the center of the nut onto the stub if there is even just a little showing, then using that. I have heard of and seen folks use a fire wrench (cutting torch) and blow the sucker out with that. It seems to work. I have heard left hand drill bits can work. Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used or heard of their use. 'I' can drill out 99% of the ones I go after without damaging threads much if any. Many years of Practice from living in the rust belt helps there. :-( I use a small bit and drill a pilot hole offset from the center of the bolt. I then use a bit that will fit from this pilot 'just' to the edge of the threads and drill. This leaves a crescent moon shape of the bolt that can be backed out with a screwdriver or hammer and center punch. Good Luck! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: busted header bolt
All of what Mike said but especially: do NOT try an easy out. The bolt
is rusted in, you will snap the easyout and then you have no hope. Mike Romain wrote: > j wrote: >> 95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? >> >> >> thanks >> > > What is it flush with? The head? > > If so I have heard of folks putting a nut there and welding it in the > center of the nut onto the stub if there is even just a little showing, > then using that. > > I have heard of and seen folks use a fire wrench (cutting torch) and > blow the sucker out with that. It seems to work. > > I have heard left hand drill bits can work. > > Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used > or heard of their use. > > 'I' can drill out 99% of the ones I go after without damaging threads > much if any. Many years of Practice from living in the rust belt helps > there. :-( > > I use a small bit and drill a pilot hole offset from the center of the > bolt. I then use a bit that will fit from this pilot 'just' to the edge > of the threads and drill. This leaves a crescent moon shape of the bolt > that can be backed out with a screwdriver or hammer and center punch. > > Good Luck! > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: busted header bolt
All of what Mike said but especially: do NOT try an easy out. The bolt
is rusted in, you will snap the easyout and then you have no hope. Mike Romain wrote: > j wrote: >> 95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? >> >> >> thanks >> > > What is it flush with? The head? > > If so I have heard of folks putting a nut there and welding it in the > center of the nut onto the stub if there is even just a little showing, > then using that. > > I have heard of and seen folks use a fire wrench (cutting torch) and > blow the sucker out with that. It seems to work. > > I have heard left hand drill bits can work. > > Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used > or heard of their use. > > 'I' can drill out 99% of the ones I go after without damaging threads > much if any. Many years of Practice from living in the rust belt helps > there. :-( > > I use a small bit and drill a pilot hole offset from the center of the > bolt. I then use a bit that will fit from this pilot 'just' to the edge > of the threads and drill. This leaves a crescent moon shape of the bolt > that can be backed out with a screwdriver or hammer and center punch. > > Good Luck! > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: busted header bolt
All of what Mike said but especially: do NOT try an easy out. The bolt
is rusted in, you will snap the easyout and then you have no hope. Mike Romain wrote: > j wrote: >> 95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? >> >> >> thanks >> > > What is it flush with? The head? > > If so I have heard of folks putting a nut there and welding it in the > center of the nut onto the stub if there is even just a little showing, > then using that. > > I have heard of and seen folks use a fire wrench (cutting torch) and > blow the sucker out with that. It seems to work. > > I have heard left hand drill bits can work. > > Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used > or heard of their use. > > 'I' can drill out 99% of the ones I go after without damaging threads > much if any. Many years of Practice from living in the rust belt helps > there. :-( > > I use a small bit and drill a pilot hole offset from the center of the > bolt. I then use a bit that will fit from this pilot 'just' to the edge > of the threads and drill. This leaves a crescent moon shape of the bolt > that can be backed out with a screwdriver or hammer and center punch. > > Good Luck! > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: busted header bolt
All of what Mike said but especially: do NOT try an easy out. The bolt
is rusted in, you will snap the easyout and then you have no hope. Mike Romain wrote: > j wrote: >> 95 wrangler with the head bolf broken off flush. suggestions? >> >> >> thanks >> > > What is it flush with? The head? > > If so I have heard of folks putting a nut there and welding it in the > center of the nut onto the stub if there is even just a little showing, > then using that. > > I have heard of and seen folks use a fire wrench (cutting torch) and > blow the sucker out with that. It seems to work. > > I have heard left hand drill bits can work. > > Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used > or heard of their use. > > 'I' can drill out 99% of the ones I go after without damaging threads > much if any. Many years of Practice from living in the rust belt helps > there. :-( > > I use a small bit and drill a pilot hole offset from the center of the > bolt. I then use a bit that will fit from this pilot 'just' to the edge > of the threads and drill. This leaves a crescent moon shape of the bolt > that can be backed out with a screwdriver or hammer and center punch. > > Good Luck! > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >or heard of their use. Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out you can remove realy stubborn ones. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >or heard of their use. Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out you can remove realy stubborn ones. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >or heard of their use. Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out you can remove realy stubborn ones. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >or heard of their use. Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out you can remove realy stubborn ones. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: busted header bolt
SnoMan wrote:
> On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > >> Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >> or heard of their use. > > > Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. > The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to > bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on > block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does > and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly > (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out > you can remove realy stubborn ones. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Living in the rust belt makes for some nasty ones. I prefer to drill off center so the bolt ends up C or crescent moon shaped so it releases on one edge and can spin out. Gotta drill it either way anyway. Mike |
Re: busted header bolt
SnoMan wrote:
> On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > >> Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >> or heard of their use. > > > Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. > The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to > bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on > block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does > and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly > (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out > you can remove realy stubborn ones. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Living in the rust belt makes for some nasty ones. I prefer to drill off center so the bolt ends up C or crescent moon shaped so it releases on one edge and can spin out. Gotta drill it either way anyway. Mike |
Re: busted header bolt
SnoMan wrote:
> On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > >> Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >> or heard of their use. > > > Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. > The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to > bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on > block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does > and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly > (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out > you can remove realy stubborn ones. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Living in the rust belt makes for some nasty ones. I prefer to drill off center so the bolt ends up C or crescent moon shaped so it releases on one edge and can spin out. Gotta drill it either way anyway. Mike |
Re: busted header bolt
SnoMan wrote:
> On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > >> Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >> or heard of their use. > > > Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. > The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to > bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on > block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does > and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly > (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out > you can remove realy stubborn ones. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Living in the rust belt makes for some nasty ones. I prefer to drill off center so the bolt ends up C or crescent moon shaped so it releases on one edge and can spin out. Gotta drill it either way anyway. Mike |
Re: Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >SnoMan wrote: >> On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> >> wrote: >> >>> Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >>> or heard of their use. >> >> >> Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. >> The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to >> bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on >> block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does >> and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly >> (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out >> you can remove realy stubborn ones. >> ----------------- >> TheSnoMan.com > >Living in the rust belt makes for some nasty ones. > >I prefer to drill off center so the bolt ends up C or crescent moon >shaped so it releases on one edge and can spin out. > >Gotta drill it either way anyway. > >Mike Sometimes if you fear the bolts are going to be a pill you should try to break them loose right after engine is shut off hot. Yes you do need some protection (like some leather work gloves and a long sleeve shirt) but when block is hot the bolts will come out easier due to cast iron expading more than steel. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >SnoMan wrote: >> On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> >> wrote: >> >>> Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >>> or heard of their use. >> >> >> Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. >> The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to >> bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on >> block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does >> and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly >> (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out >> you can remove realy stubborn ones. >> ----------------- >> TheSnoMan.com > >Living in the rust belt makes for some nasty ones. > >I prefer to drill off center so the bolt ends up C or crescent moon >shaped so it releases on one edge and can spin out. > >Gotta drill it either way anyway. > >Mike Sometimes if you fear the bolts are going to be a pill you should try to break them loose right after engine is shut off hot. Yes you do need some protection (like some leather work gloves and a long sleeve shirt) but when block is hot the bolts will come out easier due to cast iron expading more than steel. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >SnoMan wrote: >> On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> >> wrote: >> >>> Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >>> or heard of their use. >> >> >> Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. >> The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to >> bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on >> block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does >> and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly >> (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out >> you can remove realy stubborn ones. >> ----------------- >> TheSnoMan.com > >Living in the rust belt makes for some nasty ones. > >I prefer to drill off center so the bolt ends up C or crescent moon >shaped so it releases on one edge and can spin out. > >Gotta drill it either way anyway. > >Mike Sometimes if you fear the bolts are going to be a pill you should try to break them loose right after engine is shut off hot. Yes you do need some protection (like some leather work gloves and a long sleeve shirt) but when block is hot the bolts will come out easier due to cast iron expading more than steel. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: busted header bolt
On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote: >SnoMan wrote: >> On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:01:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> >> wrote: >> >>> Things like 'easy outs' are a failure 99% of the time I have seen, used >>> or heard of their use. >> >> >> Actually they have a pretty high success rate 'if" you do it right. >> The trick is to drill out enough of bolt to get a good sized EZ-out to >> bite in it. Hollowing the bolt out weakens its gripe some on >> block/threaded hole. . Also cast iron expands quicker than steel does >> and if you heat blot up several hundred degrees in bolt area quickly >> (you need to drain coolant) after drill hole and before using EZ-out >> you can remove realy stubborn ones. >> ----------------- >> TheSnoMan.com > >Living in the rust belt makes for some nasty ones. > >I prefer to drill off center so the bolt ends up C or crescent moon >shaped so it releases on one edge and can spin out. > >Gotta drill it either way anyway. > >Mike Sometimes if you fear the bolts are going to be a pill you should try to break them loose right after engine is shut off hot. Yes you do need some protection (like some leather work gloves and a long sleeve shirt) but when block is hot the bolts will come out easier due to cast iron expading more than steel. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
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