|
Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
I tried posting this earlier and am not sure it went through....
I am looking at a 1999 Jeep Cherokee (2WD, 4 door), a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD, 2 door), and a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD, 4 door). I'm concerned by all of the complaints I've seen online regarding the poor quality/reliability of the brakes/rotors. I saw that there was a 2000 Recall on the front rotors, and I was hoping a Jeep expert could tell me if the 2000 or 2001 models are more reliable than the 1999 model, or do all three have the same problems. All three cars are comparable (25K miles, 6 cyl., Auto tran., ~$11K), but I have reservations in purchasing a vehicle I will have to replace brakes/rotors so often for. Any insights and suggestions (via email or post) would be greatly appreciated. |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
I have a 99 Cherokee and have around 82k on it right now, and have only
relplaced the front pads at around 55k, most of the problems with rotors warping were on the Grand Cherokee, not the XJ. Kevin in Iowa 99 XJ http://7slotgrille.com/jeepers/lwb/kevinxj/index.html |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
I have a simple solution....by what ever jeep you want (they are both
awsom..I own a 98 cherokee) and purchase fully metalic pads and cross drilled rotors....and yes most cherokees have front brake prob's. I replaced mine after 30,000k (I did a cross Canada tour plus a trip to Salt Lake City). For sale <stantheman312@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:7058dd70.0308011252.4ef9b20@posting.google.co m... > I tried posting this earlier and am not sure it went through.... > > I am looking at a 1999 Jeep Cherokee (2WD, 4 door), a 2001 Jeep > Cherokee Sport (2WD, 2 door), and a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD, 4 > door). I'm concerned by all of the complaints I've seen online > regarding the poor quality/reliability of the brakes/rotors. I saw > that there was a 2000 Recall on the front rotors, and I was hoping a > Jeep expert could tell me if the 2000 or 2001 models are more reliable > than the 1999 model, or do all three have the same problems. All > three cars are comparable (25K miles, 6 cyl., Auto tran., ~$11K), but > I have reservations in purchasing a vehicle I will have to replace > brakes/rotors so often for. Any insights and suggestions (via email > or post) would be greatly appreciated. |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
My '97 Cherokee Sport (2dr, Auto, 2wd) had those 'thin' rotors and they were
replaced at 55k when the brakes were done. No problem since at 110k. Replacing rotors is not uncommon so this is just a bit earlier than usual. Love my Jeep. "For sale" <stantheman312@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:7058dd70.0308011252.4ef9b20@posting.google.co m... > I tried posting this earlier and am not sure it went through.... > > I am looking at a 1999 Jeep Cherokee (2WD, 4 door), a 2001 Jeep > Cherokee Sport (2WD, 2 door), and a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD, 4 > door). I'm concerned by all of the complaints I've seen online > regarding the poor quality/reliability of the brakes/rotors. I saw > that there was a 2000 Recall on the front rotors, and I was hoping a > Jeep expert could tell me if the 2000 or 2001 models are more reliable > than the 1999 model, or do all three have the same problems. All > three cars are comparable (25K miles, 6 cyl., Auto tran., ~$11K), but > I have reservations in purchasing a vehicle I will have to replace > brakes/rotors so often for. Any insights and suggestions (via email > or post) would be greatly appreciated. |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Mine started warping at around 10k or less. That IS a problem. They are
doing it again at 20k. Road Toad wrote: > My '97 Cherokee Sport (2dr, Auto, 2wd) had those 'thin' rotors and they were > replaced at 55k when the brakes were done. No problem since at 110k. > Replacing rotors is not uncommon so this is just a bit earlier than usual. > > Love my Jeep. > > > "For sale" <stantheman312@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:7058dd70.0308011252.4ef9b20@posting.google.co m... > >>I tried posting this earlier and am not sure it went through.... >> >>I am looking at a 1999 Jeep Cherokee (2WD, 4 door), a 2001 Jeep >>Cherokee Sport (2WD, 2 door), and a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD, 4 >>door). I'm concerned by all of the complaints I've seen online >>regarding the poor quality/reliability of the brakes/rotors. I saw >>that there was a 2000 Recall on the front rotors, and I was hoping a >>Jeep expert could tell me if the 2000 or 2001 models are more reliable >>than the 1999 model, or do all three have the same problems. All >>three cars are comparable (25K miles, 6 cyl., Auto tran., ~$11K), but >>I have reservations in purchasing a vehicle I will have to replace >>brakes/rotors so often for. Any insights and suggestions (via email >>or post) would be greatly appreciated. > > > -- __________________________________________________ _________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry http://www.jeepn.org/members/html/twaldron.html http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) __________________________________________________ _________ |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
It is not so bad once you start thinking of them as service parts, like an
oil filter... Earle "Thomas W." <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote in message news:3F2BE374.8010802@rubicons.com... > Mine started warping at around 10k or less. That IS a problem. They are > doing it again at 20k. > > Road Toad wrote: > > My '97 Cherokee Sport (2dr, Auto, 2wd) had those 'thin' rotors and they were > > replaced at 55k when the brakes were done. No problem since at 110k. > > Replacing rotors is not uncommon so this is just a bit earlier than usual. > > > > Love my Jeep. > > > > > > "For sale" <stantheman312@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:7058dd70.0308011252.4ef9b20@posting.google.co m... > > > >>I tried posting this earlier and am not sure it went through.... > >> > >>I am looking at a 1999 Jeep Cherokee (2WD, 4 door), a 2001 Jeep > >>Cherokee Sport (2WD, 2 door), and a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD, 4 > >>door). I'm concerned by all of the complaints I've seen online > >>regarding the poor quality/reliability of the brakes/rotors. I saw > >>that there was a 2000 Recall on the front rotors, and I was hoping a > >>Jeep expert could tell me if the 2000 or 2001 models are more reliable > >>than the 1999 model, or do all three have the same problems. All > >>three cars are comparable (25K miles, 6 cyl., Auto tran., ~$11K), but > >>I have reservations in purchasing a vehicle I will have to replace > >>brakes/rotors so often for. Any insights and suggestions (via email > >>or post) would be greatly appreciated. > > > > > > > > > -- > __________________________________________________ _________ > tw > 03 TJ Rubicon > 01 XJ Sport > > There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." > -- Dave Barry > > http://www.jeepn.org/members/html/twaldron.html > http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html > (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) > __________________________________________________ _________ > |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
In rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys For sale <stantheman312@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I am looking at a 1999 Jeep Cherokee (2WD, 4 door), a 2001 Jeep > Cherokee Sport (2WD, 2 door), and a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD, 4 > door). I'm concerned by all of the complaints I've seen online > regarding the poor quality/reliability of the brakes/rotors. I saw > that there was a 2000 Recall on the front rotors, and I was hoping a > Jeep expert could tell me if the 2000 or 2001 models are more reliable > than the 1999 model, or do all three have the same problems. Not sure about the 2WD Cherokee, but the 4WD had a recall sometime around 2000 due to the possibility that the brake rotor could separate. I think that this was mostly in the "rust belt" areas of the US where road salt is commonly used. There may have also been issues with warping, but I don't remember there being any recall for that. My '98 4WD Cherokee had the original rotors replaced at about 15000 miles due to warping. The replacement rotors lasted all the way up to about 50000 miles. At that time, they were replaced again due to the "rotor separation" recall. The replacement rotors only lasted about 15000 miles -- like the originals. I've now gone with after market el-cheapo rotors as replacements. So far they've made it past 10000 without warping. The nice part is that the ordinary cheap replacements on the 4WD Cherokee only cost about $20 and are easy to replace. I'm not sure, but the 2WD Cherokee's rotors may include the wheel bearing surfaces, too. The 4WD uses a non-user-serviceable bearing hub. Because the bearing is separate from the brake rotor, the rotors on the 4WD Cherokee are simple and cheap to replace. > All > three cars are comparable (25K miles, 6 cyl., Auto tran., ~$11K), but > I have reservations in purchasing a vehicle I will have to replace > brakes/rotors so often for. Any insights and suggestions (via email > or post) would be greatly appreciated. Some folks have said that aftermarket cross drilled rotors last much longer. I'll probably try a set of those after I see how far the cheap ones go. Good luck. -John |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee which I bought used 1 year ago with 25k miles
on the odometer. The first thing I did after purchasing was to take it my dealer and complain about brake pedal pulsing (a sign o warped rotors). The fix was new improved frt calipers, new rotors, new pads...all covered under warranty. I beleive the problem is NOT the rotors, but a design defect in the calipers. I have put 25k miles more miles on this new front brake setup, with NO brake rotor warping, no problems. Also, I suggest that you take the time to use a torque wrench to tighten each of the lug nuts to 85 lbs/in. That helps prevent warpage, I think. It seems to have taken Jeep 3 years (1999-2002) to figure out and fix the design defect in the front brake system. ASK FOR NEW FRT BRAKE CALIPERS, ROTORS, AND PADS UNDER WARRANTY! "John Sevey" <seveyj@no.spam.like.substance.wi.rr.com> wrote in message news:%g_Wa.70747$6a3.1778660@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > In rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys For sale <stantheman312@yahoo.com> wrote: > > I am looking at a 1999 Jeep Cherokee (2WD, 4 door), a 2001 Jeep > > Cherokee Sport (2WD, 2 door), and a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport (2WD, 4 > > door). I'm concerned by all of the complaints I've seen online > > regarding the poor quality/reliability of the brakes/rotors. I saw > > that there was a 2000 Recall on the front rotors, and I was hoping a > > Jeep expert could tell me if the 2000 or 2001 models are more reliable > > than the 1999 model, or do all three have the same problems. > > Not sure about the 2WD Cherokee, but the 4WD had a recall sometime around > 2000 due to the possibility that the brake rotor could separate. I think that > this was mostly in the "rust belt" areas of the US where road salt is commonly > used. There may have also been issues with warping, but I don't remember there > being any recall for that. > > My '98 4WD Cherokee had the original rotors replaced at about 15000 miles due to > warping. The replacement rotors lasted all the way up to about 50000 miles. > At that time, they were replaced again due to the "rotor separation" recall. > The replacement rotors only lasted about 15000 miles -- like the originals. > > I've now gone with after market el-cheapo rotors as replacements. So far > they've made it past 10000 without warping. The nice part is that the > ordinary cheap replacements on the 4WD Cherokee only cost about $20 and are > easy to replace. I'm not sure, but the 2WD Cherokee's rotors may include > the wheel bearing surfaces, too. The 4WD uses a non-user-serviceable bearing > hub. Because the bearing is separate from the brake rotor, the rotors on the > 4WD Cherokee are simple and cheap to replace. > > > All > > three cars are comparable (25K miles, 6 cyl., Auto tran., ~$11K), but > > I have reservations in purchasing a vehicle I will have to replace > > brakes/rotors so often for. Any insights and suggestions (via email > > or post) would be greatly appreciated. > > Some folks have said that aftermarket cross drilled rotors last much > longer. I'll probably try a set of those after I see how far the > cheap ones go. > > Good luck. > > -John |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Jim Hunter wrote:
> I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee which I bought used 1 year ago with 25k miles > on the odometer. The first thing I did after purchasing was to take it my > dealer and complain about brake pedal pulsing (a sign o warped rotors). The > fix was new improved frt calipers, new rotors, new pads...all covered under > warranty. I beleive the problem is NOT the rotors, but a design defect in > the calipers. I have put 25k miles more miles on this new front brake setup, > with NO brake rotor warping, no problems. Also, I suggest that you take the > time to use a torque wrench to tighten each of the lug nuts to 85 lbs/in. > That helps prevent warpage, I think. 85 is a bit low. spec should be 95-105. At any rate, trust the book. What prevents warpage is having all the lugs properly torqued. -- DougW |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:d0i%a.9108$Ij4.1850@news2.central.cox.net... > 85 is a bit low. spec should be 95-105. At any rate, trust the book. > What prevents warpage is having all the lugs properly torqued. 85 ft-lbs. is what my MOPAR FSM says for the low-end of the allowable torque range. Jerry -- Jerry Bransford To email, remove 'me' from my email address KC6TAY, PP-ASEL See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Jerry Bransford wrote:
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message > news:d0i%a.9108$Ij4.1850@news2.central.cox.net... >> 85 is a bit low. spec should be 95-105. At any rate, trust the book. >> What prevents warpage is having all the lugs properly torqued. > > 85 ft-lbs. is what my MOPAR FSM says for the low-end of the allowable torque > range. Yea. I just checked, your correct. I use 95 for almost every wheel except for mags or lugs with flat surfaces. Wonder if using the low side would be better? |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
On Sat, 16 Aug 2003 04:01:13 GMT, "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote: >Jim Hunter wrote: >> I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee which I bought used 1 year ago with 25k miles >> on the odometer. The first thing I did after purchasing was to take it my >> dealer and complain about brake pedal pulsing (a sign o warped rotors). The >> fix was new improved frt calipers, new rotors, new pads...all covered under >> warranty. I beleive the problem is NOT the rotors, but a design defect in >> the calipers. I have put 25k miles more miles on this new front brake setup, >> with NO brake rotor warping, no problems. Also, I suggest that you take the >> time to use a torque wrench to tighten each of the lug nuts to 85 lbs/in. >> That helps prevent warpage, I think. > >85 is a bit low. spec should be 95-105. At any rate, trust the book. >What prevents warpage is having all the lugs properly torqued. That's odd... just had new BFG All Terrains put on my '98 XJ and according to Costco, the manufacturers torque rating was 115lbs. I have been doing 90lbs. myself.... -- Taylor '89 Audi 200 '03 Audi S6 Avant '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Ken Stoorza wrote:
> The '96 T&C has gone through a couple of "warped rotor" events in it's 130K > lifetime. I am a wheel lug nut torque fanatic and not only set them properly > but 1. Do so using a few tightening iterations in a "criss cross" pattern > and 2. Re-torque them myself each and every time someone else does it as > soon as I get home (yes, I loosen them first). > > After alot of years and a lot of different cars, I am convinced that proper > lug nut torque provides no assurance that the rotors will not warp. > Something else is going on that dominates the tendency to warp and it is not > lug nut torque. There are several. 1) heat soak When you use the brakes a lot then sit there at the light with your foot on the brake. The pads hold heat in the rotor and that difference affects the material and can lead to warping. 2) drenching When you get the brakes real hot then stick them in water (like a stream crossing). 3) Worn caliper mounting bolts As these things age the brake pads don't always back off and sometimes one side of the pad will ride against the rotor. Always check pad thickness. If one pad is thinner than the other you have this problem. 4) Worn piston If the piston doesn't retract properly the brakes will rub and get hot 5) Defective rotors DC stock rotors/two piece/ el-cheapo 6) Improper turning of rotors/surfacing of rotors Midas (for example) and some other chains use the old milling machines with one blade, not the multiblade rotary milling machines. What was good for gramp's vehicle isn't good for modern rotors. 7) Probably should be up higher.... Impropper break-in of new rotors/pads If you don't break in rotors properly they will not wear well. The procedure is fairly easy.. stillen has it on the website last I checked. That's just a few. -- rbg |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
DougW wrote:
> > There are several. > > 1) heat soak > When you use the brakes a lot then sit there at the light with your foot > on the brake. The pads hold heat in the rotor and that difference affects > the material and can lead to warping. > 2) drenching > When you get the brakes real hot then stick them in water (like a stream > crossing). > 3) Worn caliper mounting bolts > As these things age the brake pads don't always back off and sometimes one > side of the pad will ride against the rotor. Always check pad thickness. > If one pad is thinner than the other you have this problem. > 4) Worn piston > If the piston doesn't retract properly the brakes will rub and get hot > 5) Defective rotors > DC stock rotors/two piece/ el-cheapo > 6) Improper turning of rotors/surfacing of rotors > Midas (for example) and some other chains use the old milling machines > with one blade, not the multiblade rotary milling machines. What was good > for gramp's vehicle isn't good for modern rotors. > 7) Probably should be up higher.... Impropper break-in of new rotors/pads > If you don't break in rotors properly they will not wear well. > The procedure is fairly easy.. stillen has it on the website last I checked. > > That's just a few. > > -- > rbg A coupla more ideas: 1) When you torque (re-torque) the lug nuts, it is best to have the weight off the wheel thru the entire torqueing process (have someone apply the brakes if necessary for the last stage of torqueing - probably won't be necessary - parking pawl is generally sufficient - at least for the fronts). If you let the weight down on the wheel during the torqueing, not only a vertical force, but a tremendous side force is put on the tire and wheel as the geometry of the suspension changes as the springs settle from the vehicle weight and can result in residual stresses in the installed wheel/hub assembly (one more factor that can be eliminated). 2) For extra insurance against warping, especially on a problem vehicle, you can have a new set of rotors cryogenically treated - will cost $75 plus shipping for treatment of a pair of rotors (based on: $1.50/pound with min. job charge of $75 - a typical rotor would weigh in the neighborhood of 15 to 21 pounds - rears are almost certainly not the problem - only necessary to do the fronts). I recommend www.300below.com. I had new rotors (fronts only) done on my '99 Concorde (LH cars are also plaqued by rotor warping) several months ago, and the brakes are as smooth today as when I first put them on - and I just spent a week vacation in the mountians of West Virginia with 3-mile 8 to 10% downhill grades braking from 55 mph to 15 mph for hairpin turns - I think I just proved (to myself anyway) that there is something to this cryo-treating). Side benefits: Rotor wear is decreased to 1/2 to 1/3 of non-treated rotors, pad wear decreased to 80% of normal; friction coefficient somewhere between unchanged to slight increase. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
Re: Advice on 1999 Jeep Cherokee vs. 2001 Jeep Cherokee
DougW wrote:
> > There are several. > > 1) heat soak > When you use the brakes a lot then sit there at the light with your foot > on the brake. The pads hold heat in the rotor and that difference affects > the material and can lead to warping. > 2) drenching > When you get the brakes real hot then stick them in water (like a stream > crossing). > 3) Worn caliper mounting bolts > As these things age the brake pads don't always back off and sometimes one > side of the pad will ride against the rotor. Always check pad thickness. > If one pad is thinner than the other you have this problem. > 4) Worn piston > If the piston doesn't retract properly the brakes will rub and get hot > 5) Defective rotors > DC stock rotors/two piece/ el-cheapo > 6) Improper turning of rotors/surfacing of rotors > Midas (for example) and some other chains use the old milling machines > with one blade, not the multiblade rotary milling machines. What was good > for gramp's vehicle isn't good for modern rotors. > 7) Probably should be up higher.... Impropper break-in of new rotors/pads > If you don't break in rotors properly they will not wear well. > The procedure is fairly easy.. stillen has it on the website last I checked. > > That's just a few. > > -- > rbg A coupla more ideas: 1) When you torque (re-torque) the lug nuts, it is best to have the weight off the wheel thru the entire torqueing process (have someone apply the brakes if necessary for the last stage of torqueing - probably won't be necessary - parking pawl is generally sufficient - at least for the fronts). If you let the weight down on the wheel during the torqueing, not only a vertical force, but a tremendous side force is put on the tire and wheel as the geometry of the suspension changes as the springs settle from the vehicle weight and can result in residual stresses in the installed wheel/hub assembly (one more factor that can be eliminated). 2) For extra insurance against warping, especially on a problem vehicle, you can have a new set of rotors cryogenically treated - will cost $75 plus shipping for treatment of a pair of rotors (based on: $1.50/pound with min. job charge of $75 - a typical rotor would weigh in the neighborhood of 15 to 21 pounds - rears are almost certainly not the problem - only necessary to do the fronts). I recommend www.300below.com. I had new rotors (fronts only) done on my '99 Concorde (LH cars are also plaqued by rotor warping) several months ago, and the brakes are as smooth today as when I first put them on - and I just spent a week vacation in the mountians of West Virginia with 3-mile 8 to 10% downhill grades braking from 55 mph to 15 mph for hairpin turns - I think I just proved (to myself anyway) that there is something to this cryo-treating). Side benefits: Rotor wear is decreased to 1/2 to 1/3 of non-treated rotors, pad wear decreased to 80% of normal; friction coefficient somewhere between unchanged to slight increase. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:29 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands